longer shocks on my raptor, does angle matter?

[number12]

Hey Guys,
My son has a 250 Raptor with +3,+1 a-arms but stock shocks. The stock shocks are 13.75" long. I am considering doing a little fab work on my a-arms to accept a 16.25 inch shock. The angle of the shock would change slightly (bottom of the shock being closer to the wheel than they are now) Do any of you forsee any problems in doing this?

[fearlessfred]

slightly outward shouldnt hurt to much.the way to figure proper shock angle is to draw a line thru the lower a arm pivot thru the lower shock mount and with the shock in full bump ( fully compressed ) the centerline of the shock should form a right angle with the other line mentioned ,if it goes past a right angle the shock will get softer in the last part of the travel. if u lay the shock down to much, the inital travel will be very soft and the last part of the travel to stiff

[dustin_j]

Fred, would you care to show a diagram of what you are explaining? Not sure I follow.

[fearlessfred]

Originally posted by dustin_j
Fred, would you care to show a diagram of what you are explaining? Not sure I follow. i dont know how to draw a diagram on the computer i guess i could draw it and take a pic and then post that.i have read your past posts helping members with suspension and i know u are pretty sharp are u just messin with me?

[fearlessfred]

Originally posted by number12
Hey Guys,
My son has a 250 Raptor with +3,+1 a-arms but stock shocks. The stock shocks are 13.75" long. I am considering doing a little fab work on my a-arms to accept a 16.25 inch shock. The angle of the shock would change slightly (bottom of the shock being closer to the wheel than they are now) Do any of you forsee any problems in doing this? there is a prob. i can foresee, and that is a longer shock will have a longer body as well as a longer shaft .your up travel (or full bump) could be limited by the body length of the shock and full droop could be limited by the balljoints . now if u have the option of lowering the lowershock mount as well, it still could work

[dustin_j]

Originally posted by fearlessfred
i dont know how to draw a diagram on the computer i guess i could draw it and take a pic and then post that.i have read your past posts helping members with suspension and i know u are pretty sharp are u just messin with me?

Thanks, I appreciate reading your posts. No, I'm not messing with you. I didn't follow right away, but I think I understand now. It makes sense. To clarify. Draw a line between lower a-arm mount and lower shock mount. Then draw a line between shock mounts (shock centerline). A sport ATV should never create an obtuse angle, since the upper shock mount is always in-board. He just needs to watch how the shock angle will change throughout travel (progression). Some progression could be desirable depending on how you want to setup the shock.

Definately follow Fred's last advice. Make sure your shock extended and compressed lengths limit travel, not the ball joints. You can follow GT Thunder's method using a 12" stand for full extension and a 1.5" stand for full compression. Do the arms give this full 10.5" of travel?

[fearlessfred]

Originally posted by dustin_j
Thanks, I appreciate reading your posts. No, I'm not messing with you. I didn't follow right away, but I think I understand now. It makes sense. To clarify. Draw a line between lower a-arm mount and lower shock mount. Then draw a line between shock mounts (shock centerline). A sport ATV should never create an obtuse angle, since the upper shock mount is always in-board. He just needs to watch how the shock angle will change throughout travel (progression). Some progression could be desirable depending on how you want to setup the shock.

Definately follow Fred's last advice. Make sure your shock extended and compressed lengths limit travel, not the ball joints. You can follow GT Thunder's method using a 12" stand for full extension and a 1.5" stand for full compression. Do the arms give this full 10.5" of travel? right on .you got it.my best friend and i started building longer a arms long before it was commonplace on atvs. ( they were crude, to say the least) and eventuly we learned ( thru an offroad chassi builder,that built my desertsled race bike ) the proper way to setup.WE ALWAYS MAKE A STRUTE WITH HOLES DRILLED AT THE EXACT LENGTH OF THE SHOCK FULLY COMPRESSED and then swing it thru the travel to find the the location of the lower shock mount.we make sure that at full bump, the angle is just shy of being a right angle. the shock of coarse should limit the travel and NOT THE BALL JOINTS. this will give u a truly progessive curve.laying the shock down more will be more progressive , i wouldnt recommend getting to crazy with that with a single spring shock,if thats what it is

[number12]

Thanks for the info guys. I have been getting educated the last few days. It appears that the shocks will work fine. The a-arm manufacturer gave me a pretty good deal on just replacing the lower a-arms. i am going to buy them and the front end will be good to go. Now all I have to do is get this rear end worked out. i bought a rear shock from a 400EX with hopes of making it work but it won't. By the way, i have a PEP shock for a 400EX with remote ressie for sale.

[fearlessfred]

thats cool that the maker of the arms would hook u up.good luck with your project. fred