Sage 6 Adjustable clutch

[RapKor]

Ok I am the guy that was begging for clutch help last week! Thanks for all the help!
I narrowed it down to a worn out clutch and bought a new stage 6 adjustable Now heres my new problem. No directions in clutch kit not sure how to adjust it.
Have a ported 90 l/c, running a 1500 ZTR torque spring, red shoe springs ( which I already added to the new clutch) wondering if someone can tell me a good place to start (set up wise)with this clutch. Too br honest I am not even really sure where to add the little brass weights! Thanks I appreciate any and all help!

[racekids]

I bought the same clutch last week and obviously had the same questions. I called Gforce and they told me the following.

1. Dont need the brass weights
2. Use the red heavy shoe springs
3. set tension on shoe springs to the second long line.

This worked for us. Hope it helps you out. We ran the same spring and same weight rollers we had with stock clutch set up.

[RapKor]

Cool I will try it thanks alot.

[RapKor]

we did some testing with the stage 6 with no weights, red springs, 1500 ztr spring with 4.5g and 5.0 staggered rollers with brand new 787 belt.
08 l/c 90 ported/polished. Machine pulls quite a bit harder but belt is about a 1/4 inch from full travel. Any suggestions?Thanks

[mydirtkids]

Belt travel is probably a combination of your torque spring and roller weights. The setup with the clutch is exactly what we used (works well).

If you are not getting full travel, you might try a heavier weight. We used the PCS pipe, and 4g rollers in the variator. Our bike got full travel and shifted properly. On our practice bike I had to use a combination of 4.5 and 4g rollers to get the travel right. You may just need to experiment a little to get it correct. You say you are 1/4" from full travel, well you are really close as it is and not sure how much gain you will notice. IMO it depends on the needs of the rider... are they using it all anyway? In the beginning it was not worth the effort for me to worry about it as long as it shifted right.

How well does it rev up with those heavy rollers? Do you have the starter stuff still in the bike? With that weight, sounds like it might have a hard time revving up..?

I am also a HUGE fan of drilling the CVT cover and getting an outerwear if all you do is race. Heat kills your springs and rollers. PS... I think the stage6 rollers are junk... Like the KOSO or DR.Pulley and Dr. Pulley vario for the small rollers.

The Overrange kit was one of the best investments I have made on the bike :D

[bulldogfallon]

If the torque spring is new then it needs a little run time to break in to get an accurate reading..

Which also means if your set up runs perfect on a new spring you may need to adjust the rollers (lighter) after the spring breaks in.

Need RPM readings to help properly tune the CVT....

Too heavy of rollers could reduce RPMs and hinder belt travel (depending upon distance of the run)

[bulldogfallon]

Originally posted by racekids
I bought the same clutch last week and obviously had the same questions. I called Gforce and they told me the following.

1. Dont need the brass weights
2. Use the red heavy shoe springs
3. set tension on shoe springs to the second long line.

This worked for us. Hope it helps you out. We ran the same spring and same weight rollers we had with stock clutch set up.


The inserts add weight to the shoes which help create a harder hit and also allow for a lower clutch rpm engagement.

Using the weights is a personal preference and generally used in high performance set ups