Switching Motor Oils

[dalejiw25]

quote:Originally posted by CJM
"If your clutch was already bathed in other oil, sometimes switching oil isnt a good idea."


Interesting, Please Clarify. Say I was using Honda GN4(Standard oil) and wanted to switch to Klotz MX4 (Full Synthetic), This would pose a Problem ???? If so what are the problems related to doing this ???? And how could this be done effectively ???? Somewhere down the line someone has switched from a standard oil to a synthetic oil, I'm Sure. Thanks.
I pulled this outta ridein'red7s Post and figured I'd start anew. That post is gettin pretty long. lol.

[4reeds]

i was told that you can switch to synthetic but then you cant switch back.i was also to that you can switch to a synthetic blend and switch back with no issues. im just sticking with gn4.works great for me.

[slightlybent47]

i've herd that you shouldn't run synthetic oil in the ex.

[dalejiw25]

Seems as though everyone "Has Heard" or "Been Told" How bout some "Facts" ????

[riotact]

I switched from Honda GN4 to Rotella T with the same clutch and I havent had any problems.

[4reeds]

Originally posted by dalejiw25
Seems as though everyone "Has Heard" or "Been Told" How bout some "Facts" ???? oh sorry for not stating where i got my info.it was from the local honda dealership. im sure if you took the time to google it,or made a quick phone call to your local dealership instead of relying on someone else to do the research for you,you would have found some facts on the topic.

[Pipeless416]

Originally posted by 4reeds
oh sorry for not stating where i got my info.it was from the local honda dealership.

there's your first mistake.

i go back and fourth between synthetic and non synthetic every year when the temp changes.

[dalejiw25]

Originally posted by 4reeds
oh sorry for not stating where i got my info.it was from the local honda dealership. im sure if you took the time to google it,or made a quick phone call to your local dealership instead of relying on someone else to do the research for you,you would have found some facts on the topic.

Oh sorry for trying to make conversation with you. Now get back in your Hole.

[NacsMXer]

Originally posted by Pipeless416
there's your first mistake.

i go back and fourth between synthetic and non synthetic every year when the temp changes.

Yep i've switched back and forth as well without issue. It really isn't much of a big deal as people make it out to be. I've spent a lot of time over at the "Bob is the Oil Guy" forums and the oil connoisseurs and fanatics over there tend to agree. I started my motor out with Honda HP4 semi synthetic, then switched to Mobil 1 red cap 15w50 full synthetic, broke in my rebuilt motor with Shell Rotella T 15w40 conventional, then to Shell Rotella T6 5w40 full synthetic, then to Shell Rotella T 15w40 conventional for 2 oil changes (new cam break in), and now to Maxima Maxum 4 Extra 15w50 Ester-based full synthetic.

It bugs me when rumors are spread that you can't run synthetic oil with wet clutch motors and switching back/forth will mess something up. That's all due to misinformation.

You absolutely can run full synthetics, but only certain kinds. Just make sure that the oil is either JASO MA approved, it is NOT "energy conserving", and it contains little to no concentration of moly. If you follow these rules, your clutch will be happy. Then from there you can decide which synthetic you want to run based on what type of base stock the oil is made from, what type of additive package is present, price and what viscosities are offered, etc.

[CJM]

What Im saying is, the is in the off chance thats all you ran in the engine then the clutch plates are worn and have been bathed in that oil for eons and now may not like the mixture of new oil and old thats still in there.

OR

They could be worn clutch plates.

You do realize when you drain the oil your only getting out about 2qts, I totally rebuild mine and took off the side cover for the timing chain, after I had drained all my oil out at least another 1/2 a qt or more came out.

[dalejiw25]

Thanks guys For sharing your Knowledge and Experience. My main concern was the rumors of slipping clutches. I've got quite a few good runs on this clutch anyways, If it does happen to falter, I'll rebuild it bigger and better. I'll switch over to the Klotz then, Basically because I like the way it performs in my 250R. It's the only oil that's ever been run it and I've never had a problem due to it. That and it smells Saweeeet !!!!

[CJM]

What grade are you running btw?

I will only run 10w-40 or 15w-50, anything less in these quads and it doesnt like it.

[dalejiw25]

I,m runnin 20W50 now for the summer. I Don't run my sport bikes threw the winter. That's tear down and rebuild bigger and better Time for em. lol

[CJM]

For the heck of it I would try and run a slightly lesser weight and see if it helps. Might be to thick.

[guenther]

Hi, my name is John and I'm a Rotella user. This is my second year using and I just can't seem to stop. I was a Mobil 1 red label 15W-50 synthetic user at $9 per quart but got fed up with the high price and switched to the less expensive Rotella 15W-40 at $11 per gallon. I'm getting 3X the amount for the same money with no engine problems or clutch slippage. There have been times when I've felt like I needed to use some of the high priced stuff so I switched back. Darn it I couldn't see any difference in the way the bike was acting so I went back to the cheaper stuff. I guess I just have to face the fact that I'll never be able to get off the Rotella. Thanks for listening, you guys are great.

[CJM]

I think it also depends on how often you change it too. I change maybe every 10-20 hours at most, or 3-4 rides.

I dont mind the price b/c being an auto mechanic we have a fleet of trucks that have only used mobil 1 syn (what I use for the quad) that have gone 300k with ease. Thats my justification.. Course it only costs 4/qt here.. My walmart must be stupid or something.

However whatever people use, its better than nothing-right?

[NacsMXer]

Originally posted by CJM
I think it also depends on how often you change it too. I change maybe every 10-20 hours at most, or 3-4 rides.

I dont mind the price b/c being an auto mechanic we have a fleet of trucks that have only used mobil 1 syn (what I use for the quad) that have gone 300k with ease. Thats my justification.. Course it only costs 4/qt here.. My walmart must be stupid or something.

However whatever people use, its better than nothing-right?

Yep whatever you run changing it often is the key. Both because the oil shears out of grade eventually and serves to keep dirt, contaminants, wear metals, etc in suspension until the next oil change. Motors that share the oil between the tranny/crank like the 400 are especially hard on oil, so you have to change it often. If you want to use the cheap stuff, even more often.

Here's a thread I found interesting. A guy with a Raptor 700 and a LTR sent in his used oil samples to blackstone labs for oil analysis. He was using Belray Thumper semi synthetic and Klotz MX4 full synthetic. This demonstrates how some so called quality oils can shear out of grade prematurely and no longer provide the proper viscosity a motor needs to operate without premature wear. There were high silica levels in one of the samples...that's from sucking in too much sand/dirt. I suspected he was using a K&N while reading the thread and sure enough he was lol. That pretty much proves that K&N's pass fine dirt like i've always said since using them myself.
http://www.moddedraptor.com/community/raptor-700-maintenance/8766-more-oil-analysis-bel-ray-thumper-klotz-mx4.html

[guenther]

Originally posted by NacsMXer
That pretty much proves that K&N's pass fine dirt like i've always said since using them myself.

I second that. When I got my quad it had a K&N on it with an Outwears pre-filter. Every time I would clean the filter there would be a thin layer of dust on the inside of the intake tube. I changed over to a UNI and have no dust at all on the inside of the tube. I didn't notice an appreciable decrease in power when switching to the UNI but I'm sure the K&N does flow better. Even if the UNI does hinder power just slightly I'm okay with that because I'd rather have clean air going in the motor rather than dirty air that adds maybe a 1/2 extra horsepower and contaminates the oil.

[CJM]

I really dislike KN, the only thing was the old cool factor if it was in a car. I have a uni and outwears and like it alot better than any other setup Ive tried.