cant get my flywheel off

[sangheraent]

well i blew my trans a few weeks back and I started opening it the begining of this week. I cant get my flywheel off. I used the puller but the flywheel was rusted and the threds inside the flywheel gave way and the puller slipped out.

I then tried all sorts of retarded ways and nothing worked so I did what I was suppose to and weld the flywheel removal tool to the flywheel. well i welded the piss out of it and still it tore the welds apart. Im all out of ideas. I dont want to grind it off because i think thatll take like 3 hours but if thats what has to be done ill do it.

anyone got any suggestions?

[Honda 250r 001]

3 jaw puller. I think heat would prolly be a bad idea because it would most likely ruin your stator also. But it would for sure geet that mofo off.

[sangheraent]

i tried the 3 jaw pulled i cant get it to grip on 1 of the legs. there isnt enough clearance. I tried heat also. i also put it in the freezer for a day. i tried puting it face down and hitting it with a hammer. I tried prying it off with 2 big wrenches. i put a bunch of wd40 in there too. my next step i was thinking was puting some sort of wire through the 2 holes in the flywheel and pulling it with a jack while the engine is held down.

[ARC_89TRX250R]

Back before I had a puller I used a set of Chain Vice Grips on the outside of the stator and put a 3 jaw puller onto the chain, the puller wedges the chain so it wont budge, it dug in some little groves but worked like a charm if your in a jam. just file down the scars it makes....

Good Luck!

[Honda 250r 001]

MAn your gonna have to start cutting. If that flywheel puller welded to the flywheel didnt get it. Then I dont know what will. haha. Your gonna have to find someway to get that puller welded on there so it will stay!! Otherwise its gonna be a mess cutting and hacking until it comes off.

[brokenmike]

Weld the puller on again and tighten the puller (not enough to break the welds) and hit the end of the puller with a hammer to shock it and it should come off.

[speedfreek]

Originally posted by brokenmike
Weld the puller on again and tighten the puller (not enough to break the welds) and hit the end of the puller with a hammer to shock it and it should come off. x2
And for future references I always put never seize on the crank shaft before the flywheel goes back on. It will always come off in the future.hit the end of the puller with a hammer , a BFH!

[profab250R]

put tension on the puller, and hit it with the bfh like stated or use an air hammer with a broad tip.

tension and vibration are key to pulling things like a fly wheel or tight bolts.

[speedfreek]

A little PB blaster wont hurt either. You are probably going to mushroom the end of the crank. I did this once. I just filed it back down so the nut would go back on and it worked. So do like Michael Jackson says and BEAT IT!

[Honda 250r 001]

Originally posted by speedfreek
A little PB blaster wont hurt either. You are probably going to mushroom the end of the crank. I did this once. I just filed it back down so the nut would go back on and it worked. So do like Michael Jackson says and BEAT IT!

I doubt he will be using this crank over again. haha

[slamdak8782]

You can get a three jaw puller on there you just have to clearance one of the legs to get it to work thats how i got mine off

[jcs003]

you should soak it with PB blaster for a while. then keep tightening and loosening it with an imoact gun. another thing that can be done is to soak it with the PB blaster and keep a heat gun on it.

if none of this works, get out a plasma and start cutting.

[sangheraent]

ok well I literally tried everything. this ****er is not moving. Im going to take it to my machinest and have him chop it up. I got very mad and screwed up the crank. the trans is blown. stator will be messed getting this thing off.

so what im saying is, is it worth me even rebuilding this bottom end or should I take the parts that I have and buy another bottom end?

[Honda 250r 001]

Originally posted by sangheraent
ok well I literally tried everything. this ****er is not moving. Im going to take it to my machinest and have him chop it up. I got very mad and screwed up the crank. the trans is blown. stator will be messed getting this thing off.

so what im saying is, is it worth me even rebuilding this bottom end or should I take the parts that I have and buy another bottom end?

If that case is good its worth some serious cash

[sangheraent]

what do i need to put a 5 stroker crank in there?

i got an 89 crank with an 86 piston and cylinder. im running a spacer plate too.

If i get a stroker crank so I need to buy an 89 piston and just run that same spacer?

[destey]

this sounds exactly like what happened to me. when i read it i thought it was a post I made until i looked at the username

[destey]

Originally posted by sangheraent
ok well I literally tried everything. this ****er is not moving. Im going to take it to my machinest and have him chop it up. I got very mad and screwed up the crank. the trans is blown. stator will be messed getting this thing off.

so what im saying is, is it worth me even rebuilding this bottom end or should I take the parts that I have and buy another bottom end?

You'll probably want the CR250 ignition to replace the one that's shot, I found mine for $175 on ebay. The you'll need the adapter plate, $80 from esr. Then a bearing seal and gasket kit, $120 from ebay. You may find the clutch basket to have grooves worn, I found a vortex basket for $110. New clutch plates, $60. And whatever replacement parts you need for you transmission. Gears brand new run from $35-100 if they're still in production. Or you could get a yukon set off ebay for $300. Might want to toss in a water pump mechanical seal while you're at it. While you have the crank out it might be a good time for a new rod bearing, which requires the crank to be split usually by a specialty shop.

Though if you decide to buy someone elses lower end, it may have many hours on it and bearings/seals may be worn and the gearset might as well. I found rebuilding to be the best option as you don't know what you're buying when you buy someone elses.

[Honda 250r 001]

Originally posted by destey
You'll probably want the CR250 ignition to replace the one that's shot, I found mine for $175 on ebay. The you'll need the adapter plate, $80 from esr. Then a bearing seal and gasket kit, $120 from ebay. You may find the clutch basket to have grooves worn, I found a vortex basket for $110. New clutch plates, $60. And whatever replacement parts you need for you transmission. Gears brand new run from $35-100 if they're still in production. Or you could get a yukon set off ebay for $300. Might want to toss in a water pump mechanical seal while you're at it. While you have the crank out it might be a good time for a new rod bearing, which requires the crank to be split usually by a specialty shop.

Though if you decide to buy someone elses lower end, it may have many hours on it and bearings/seals may be worn and the gearset might as well. I found rebuilding to be the best option as you don't know what you're buying when you buy someone elses.

Just thought i would let you know that neither baldwin, oem or yukon longer make tranny gears for the 250r. So new gears are pretty much unavilable.