Engine mount relocation

[mydirtkids]

Someone on this forum (individual not vendor) fabricated an engine mount relocation kit. I am interested in one. The tie rods at the steering stem keep popping my spark plug wire off on BOTH our stock and JB setup bikes. I even have the boots that use the full tip of the plug. Not to mention the frame smacks my pipe. I would also like to lower the rear of the motor some too.

I am aware DC sells a complete set. Don't get me wrong, they look pretty sweet, but at $180 I am willing to explore other options...even make my own...JMO.

I would not mind picking up the MACH1 fronts for $50. That would assume the rear are worth $130....? Not to me. Anyone got ideas?

[hotquads1]

for the issues that you mentioned , the fronts may be all you need . the rear locartors are mostly directed towards correcting chain issues.

[bulldogfallon]

Marcs for $50 is the deal

[mydirtkids]

I have a JB swing arm and make plenty of contact with the frame. Have re-welded the frame already once, and the chain still chews thru. I did pick up a frame saver, but still think I need to lower the rear due to the swing arm. There was a guy on here somewhere that made his own relocation kit, looked identical to the DC stuff. Just not sure which road to go down. Im pretty sure after I piss and moan a few days I will just call and order the DC stuff:scary: Atleast it will be another part made in the USA!!! Now I just about convinced myself there:D

[zach R 7x]

Marc's upper motor mounts are nice and work very well but.... When I installed my new lower mount I raised my motor 1/2" and took the stock upper mounts and cut them and redrilled the holes and they have worked for us all season.

As far as the rear mounts go , all I did was take a piece of 1/4 " plate and heated it to wrap around the tube above the chain ,did this 2 years ago and it still is in good shape .

Hope this helps.

[BradLoomis]

If all you are having problems with is your spark plug wire, I would get Marcs engine plates.

Offsetting the motor to the right of the chassis will balance the side to side weight of the quad
http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc52/X-Stream_Composites/Loomis%20Racing/006.jpg

Lowering the backend is to address the chain loose/tight/loose issue and will stop the chain from chewing into the frame.
http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc52/X-Stream_Composites/Loomis%20Racing/005-1.jpg

Lower engine mount will triangulate the enging mounts and stop almost all frame twist
http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc52/X-Stream_Composites/Loomis%20Racing/IMG_1494.jpg

There are other photo's here (http://s216.photobucket.com/albums/cc52/X-Stream_Composites/) and I will help you anyway I can with info

[mydirtkids]

Thats what I remember! I knew someone had something. How much to make a set of rear mounts?? I would like to lower mine a little.

I sure like the DC stuff, but like most of us I like to save some cash where I can. If not, thanks for the pics! I could probably come up with something if I ever have any free time.

[asadad00]

If you install that lower mount would you have to modify the pipe ? looks like it would not work with power pro pipe.

[BradLoomis]

If you want to lower the rear, only one rear mount is needed on the left engine mount. 2 are only needed if you are going to offset the motor. If you want one PM me an address and I will send you one.

The lower front motor mount works with any head pipe I have ever seen.

[mydirtkids]

Way too cool... PM sent!

[Logan #34's Dad]

Hello Brad, you may have answered this before but, if you offset the motor to the right then how do you line the chain up?

[BradLoomis]

I build my own swingarms that are welded up farther to the rightside of the pivot tube. It centers the pressure more evenly on the tube and makes it tougher to bend the long righthand side of the pivot tube. I made a couple smaller pivot tubes that you could just cutoff a little of the righthand side pivot tube and weld this tube inside of the stock tube, once the chain was in alignment. But I quit doing that, and just started making my own total swingarms.

With a stock DRR axle, you need to run a 2 1/8" spacer on the left wheel to square up the tire alignment. Almost all mini quads that I have seen, the left tire sticks out farther past the front wheel and the right sits in farther than the right front. Tracking on a machine like that is a nightmare, and these kids just compensate for it pretty well. But aside from the tracking, the side to side weight bias is around 62% on the lefthand side of the quad. Which means, when the quad leaves the ground, you have to put more weight onto the righthand peg than the left. That is why most mini quads always dip their leftside when jumping, unless the rider is compensating for it.

Pick up the leftside nerfbar off of the ground and then go do the rightside, you will see.

Here is a picture of the centered rearend and motor.
http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc52/X-Stream_Composites/IMG_0386.jpg