PDA

View Full Version : leaking crank seal :(



hawaiianbasshed
09-03-2010, 09:11 PM
I was thinking the crank seal was leaking. but I took off the fan cover and fan from the magneto and there didn't appear to be any fluid. so I'm thinking maybe the base gasket is leaking or something...

could be the stator or coil I suppose. I rejetted a few times and tried a different carb. both didn't help. it still gets to top rpms just stumbles on it's way and stumbles while at max rpm too it's always there almost on rotation like...

I noticed when I took the motor cover off the head gasket looked like it had a slight leak so I changed it out with a new one I had laying around..

I'm going to run the motor tomorrow and see if I can locate a leak with a bottle of soapy water or something...

I may ohm the stator I know it's supposed to read 180ohms iirc so that's an easy check... I do have an extra stator and coil so if it's those all I gotta do is replace it. but I think it's more of a motor problem :(

hawaiianbasshed
09-04-2010, 12:06 PM
checked the stator and it's fine :(

hawaiianbasshed
09-04-2010, 03:14 PM
only does it under load (someone riding it)

I put it on a tire and it revved up to full rpms no hesitations... not sure what the problem is at this point... gonna pop open the CVT side I suppose but I don't think I'll find anything

LT80
09-05-2010, 07:20 AM
All that and you haven't looked at the clutchs.:P

I have seen seals leak out, but usually thay just suck air in.

hawaiianbasshed
09-05-2010, 02:59 PM
why look at the clutch? it's like a dead spot it doesn't rev higher or anything... should I open the variator? I pulled the clutch/variator off this morning to pull the gears out of the trans... didn't help either.

clutch looked ok I suppose.. not sure what I'd look for on the rear clutch... pads were good?

LT80
09-05-2010, 03:26 PM
We maint the clutchs to eliminate that aspect of a problem.
Rear clutch: I replace alot of bearings.

hawaiianbasshed
09-05-2010, 03:48 PM
so, the clutch would cause a stumble possibly? not the CVT but the rear clutch.. I replaced the bearing on the trans cover with one I had from another bike it felt like it rolled smoother. the other one felt like it had a bit of rough spots.

so where are the clutch bearings located? within the clutch itself?

LT80
09-05-2010, 10:13 PM
Transmision 2. #'s 4 and 6 on the fiche.
They are not the problem but need checked. If bad, the effect is noticable.

You should check the rollers. like I mentioned, we need to eliminate that aspect of the problem.
If I remember correct, there was a roller plate/key/keyway issue we talked about. I'm thinking this still might be a issue.

Dammit....cough up a plane ticket and I'll get ya going. :) :D

hawaiianbasshed
09-06-2010, 01:35 PM
lets pretend I don't have a repair manual for a sec :)

wth is Transmision 2. #'s 4 and 6 on the fiche.

are they in the clutch? I suppose I'll pull it back apart and see.

I read a post on someone who said their bog wasn't clutch related as it happens while in the air as well.. and mine doesn't happen in the air so I suppose it could be clutch related...

my front one was solid to the key when I opened it I believe now it's not after putting it back together... I'll open it and look at rollers to see if any are sideways or something.. he did tip the bike on it's side twice last ride.

LT80
09-07-2010, 06:16 AM
"wth is Transmision 2. #'s 4 and 6 on the fiche"
Transmission #2 is the rear clutch.
Transmission #1 is the front clutch.
Most call the gearbox a clutch.
If you look at a dealer site, most offer the parts fiche that showed the parts, numbers, and prices.

Your roller will prolly be sideways. That happens when you pull the variator off.

Like I said, we need to eliminate the clutch aspect.
Get off the computer and go tear the clutch apart. :D

hawaiianbasshed
09-08-2010, 02:20 AM
I fixed it yesterday and was ashamed of myself to post back my findings LOL. rode it around a little and decided I do really want to get the 26mm mikuni carb/vforce reed cage working right on it. I tried it both ways and butt dyno said the 26mm/vforce killed the stock setup on off the line power. I MAY do some top speed and 300' times to test it but I need to find a nice runway where the noise won't bother anyone.

and with a little more experimenting I think I figured why I was having issues with it previously :D

will start a new thread later with postitive stuff if all goes well, with it. regardless of if the carb works I will post results as I ordered a 14t front and have rear 18" snow hogs on our old ITP wheels. hoping to mount up the front 19x6" ITP holeshots tomorrow or so then we'll be putting on the MX setup to see how it does this weekend I hope... no matter what, I will post results. it's just playing around but now that things are starting to look up I can't wait to see how it goes.

I have to order a few parts to make the 26mm work right but I want to get it as peaky as I can as much off the line AND top speed just generally get it to peak performance with the parts I have and see if I feel we still need more. I think for my kid, power will be good and it will be more about suspension after that :( dropping it back down will be a big plus, here's a shot of the 18" snow blows vs the tires it has now..

hawaiianbasshed
09-08-2010, 02:22 AM
front comparison on the tires LOL

also for the 26mm carb, I want to get it working so I can get rid of the stocker, or decide ultimately it won't work well for our needs and sell it on ebay for whatever I can get out of it...