Water in crankcase DRX 90

[KDX Dad]

Regarding my earlier post, son hit deep water at speed. After removing reed block found a good amount of gray water/oil mix.

1. I assume this indicates a massive amount of water coming in to the motor and this is why the bike won't stay running even after drying out. Yes?

2. Any ideas on cleaning out the gray sludge, short of tearing it down (which I won't have the time to do before a local national this weekend)?

Thanks,

KDX Dad

[jerkyboy]

If it where mine Id tear it down. You can have the topend off cranck case cleaned up and back together in a hour.

Make sure no loose dirt around cylinder that can get inside
drain fluid from radiator
remove 1 inner tierod from steering stem
remove head and cylinder
then flush crankcase with fuel
make sure all bearings get some oil before you reassemble

Maybee someone else has a better solution

[Coley'sdad#8]

Friend I'm afraid your done, the Gray sludge you speak of is water, oil and aluminum dust all mixed together at 7000 rpm's.
dusting more than likely from just piston trying to seize. pull it down and fix it but if you want to try it clean it all out with brake cleaner and air pressure it's just gonna get more expensive to fix.
get that plastic intake tube that goes up to headlight off of it, its a funnel to your bike just dumping water into it, if it goes in the filter it's going to run right down the tube. hope you are running a good Uni filter oiled real good with an outerwears cover on it to help repel the water that just burned your bike down.
stick a fork in it:rolleyes:

[Coley'sdad#8]

if you've got beer Raven will even come help you:D
no matter how far away you are.
but really yeah yank the top end off see what ya got and get parts coming if ya need and finish it up right before the race like we all do:blah: last minute

[zach R 7x]

Originally posted by Coley'sdad#8
Friend I'm afraid your done, the Gray sludge you speak of is water, oil and aluminum dust all mixed together at 7000 rpm's.
dusting more than likely from just piston trying to seize. pull it down and fix it but if you want to try it clean it all out with brake cleaner and air pressure it's just gonna get more expensive to fix.
get that plastic intake tube that goes up to headlight off of it, its a funnel to your bike just dumping water into it, if it goes in the filter it's going to run right down the tube. hope you are running a good Uni filter oiled real good with an outerwears cover on it to help repel the water that just burned your bike down.
stick a fork in it:rolleyes:

I tend to agree with Coley'sdad on this , if you got water in the crank case,this also means water got to the bearings. If it was mine I would tear it down and check bearing ,especially if they are stock bearings and replace them. If they go bad could do alot more damage.

Tim

[jerkyboy]

Thats funny you should mention that Chris.
I was over my buddies last night fixing that compression issue.
And yes some beer was consumed.

[KDX Dad]

Ok, I've got a top end kit coming. ColeysDad I couldn't totally understand your post.

Whats the pro/con of pulling top end and just cleaning the case as described?

I have no issue doing the top end but haven't split cases before and might be a bit scketchy for me.

Who's this Raven dude? Heck I'll have a kegger for the guy, pizza, and I'll take him down to blood alley and hook him up with a real looker when were done, lol.

Re Uni filter, I have one but figured the tube was better in real deep water. So coleysDad, you're thinking running the straight uni off the carb with outwear would be better?

Always run a good well oiled filter, btw.

Thanks,

KDX Dad.

[mydirtkids]

Check your crank etc, these things get hot quick when the bearings start to fail. Had the same thing on an old polaris (the one I mentioned in other post). The piston/cylinder were trashed.. could see daylight when I got it off...obviously would not fix itself like I was hoping!

We just upgraded to Malossi big bore on our new bike. Have a 42 full circle crank, stock cylinder, stator, cdi and coil if you need. Off a 2010 DRR 90 LC(ran great), with about 10 races. Will let it go REAL cheap if you need it. If you want this stuff I would still get a new set of bearings, rings, crandcase seals, wristpin bearing and maybe even a piston (all pretty cheap for the 52 stock piston). Let me know if you need any of this stuff. Good luck

[Coley'sdad#8]

Raven is Jerkyboy
just yanking the top end off and cleaning like rx7 posted runs the risk of bad crank bearings also (I dont know how bad or how long it was run) so you run the risk of grenading the motor more and definately make sure you replace the piston, pin and wrist pin bearing , that would be the first to blow.
If you can change a crappy baby diaper you can split the cases, just get a splitter / puller that fits and take your time and like the diaper changing be careful not to break anything off:eek:
Last but not least, your going to need some kind of filter relocation kit if you insist on running in the water, and by the way
a Hawiian punch bottle, V-8 splash or Gatorade bottle dont work we had them all fail in the 70 cvt main @ lorettas when we sucked De Agua:eek2:

[FISH ON!]

Originally posted by KDX Dad
Regarding my earlier post, son hit deep water at speed. After removing reed block found a good amount of gray water/oil mix.

1. I assume this indicates a massive amount of water coming in to the motor and this is why the bike won't stay running even after drying out. Yes?

2. Any ideas on cleaning out the gray sludge, short of tearing it down (which I won't have the time to do before a local national this weekend)?

Thanks,

KDX Dad


On a rainy or humid day you can see the grey milky stuff you are talking about but you should see it in the carb as well. That's just the water in the air. If you are lucky it is nothing worse than that. We've virtually eliminated our water issues which has helped win races. I tell my son to avoid the water only if he is in the lead, otherwise take what ever line is available. Try this link for proof......

http://www.exriders.com/vbb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=445952

PM me if you want some ideas on how we water proof our quad.

[KDX Dad]

Thanks all,

And good point Todd, seen the gray stuff in the throat several times. This was a whole different level. BTW, good to see another youth quad doing scrambles. Been there with the mud monster returning from a hard race. Nice pics! The rain is about all we are seeing up here in NY this season.

Anyway, pulled the motor out, go the head off, all top end parts will be here in the am. This thing has 2 full seasons on it and besides the moisture inside the jug and the case, this motor is mint on the inside. Bore is like baby butt smooth, piston looks like new, top has a bit of carbon build up, but all is tight.

Will rinse the the case with kero a couple of times, and follow with some 2 smoke oil bath after that. Any other pointers?

The bike only idled for about a minute after the water incident so rather than breaking the cases with only a GNCC and 4 other regular races left, I'll live on the edge. really think I'll be good with a new top end.

As always input much apprieciated!

KDX Dad