PDA

View Full Version : rear clutch overheating



aimo007
08-16-2010, 05:08 PM
anyone ever had problem with rear clutch over heating it like my clutch is slippin I can only get it to work right with 2000 rear spring then i lose topend . when i remove clutch the shoes are glazed like it slipping but i dont know why???? like to run yellow malossi 3.5 rollers and 2000 engagment spring but after 2 laps springs acts like its already wore out ?

mydirtkids
08-16-2010, 10:11 PM
I had a heat issue with ours. We are running a Stage 6 clutch with the CNC bell and a Dr. Pulley variator with Dr. Pulley rollers. My rollers would only last a practice and one race (two if lucky). The spring would also get super hot and fade. Felt like it was hanging up in high gear and bogg when getting off and back on the throttle. This would happen usually after about 5 minutes of riding. We drilled 5 large holes in the CVT cover (rear face around the support webbing) and bought the CVT outerwear. This solved all OUR problems and have not had to replace the rollers or spring since (about 5 full motos and a few pracitce rides). The CVT cover used to get too hot to touch! Now nice and cool:cool:

Good luck, there are a bunch of great guys on here with lots of experience to help. I would also wait to see if anyone else has had similar experience to help diagnose your problem.

fomospede
08-17-2010, 01:35 AM
are your clutch shoes worn out?do they move freely on clutch hub? , we had issues with heat build up and vented the cover and it helps alot, but you need to know that your bell is not already damaged and out of round ,which is about what you are explaining!

bulldogfallon
08-17-2010, 08:11 AM
Need more info on your quad/set up.....If it is a 2010 DRX50 then you set up is not what I would recomend.

Please provide more info so a more accurate diagnosis can be provided.

Thank you

aimo007
08-17-2010, 12:42 PM
2007.5 drr 50 (mk70) stock clutch brand new yamasidi from 2010 mxr 50 change clutch and seemed ok for one race then it was ok at till second lap of practice have mk pipe 90 gears (came with 2007.5 44 wide 50) after bought new cluth thought would fix problem but only lasted one race .changed shib,clutch bell, and still having prob. going back trew tranny know just incases its internal dont do it with 2000 spring in rear just lose topend???? even tried 17.1 belt 788

bulldogfallon
08-17-2010, 01:03 PM
Get the S6 clutch set up and tune your CVT with right torque spring and rollers...and belt


You need a tach as welll to determine your stall and shift points

Throwing different things at it w/o testing equipment is costly in regards to time and money.

aimo007
08-17-2010, 07:38 PM
had on dyno stall was 6000 and hp was around 11 with this setup . be fore overheating issue . when i change something i only do one at a time. whats s6/stage 6 i know woodbury has told me he'll sell me his. thinking thats a good ideal notice stock clutch doesnt use whole shoe when it engages

mydirtkids
08-17-2010, 07:42 PM
Yup, the stage 6 clutch grabs the whole pad evenly:D Did I mention I really like it? With the CNC bell we got I can adjust it without taking it off:D :D Out of all the upgrades, I think this was really one of the best purchases for the $$

aimo007
08-17-2010, 08:33 PM
thanks to everyone for all info.