electrical short

[DVS_Freestyler]

can anyone look into what fuse does what on the harness that's located in the rear plastic on the throttle side of the bike. when I press the starter button the outside fuse blows everytime and I can't locate the short. never had this happen on any of my quads till now. also want to remove all the light wires but waiting for my shop manual to do so. any help?

Thanks fellas!!

DG

[TNT]

Sounds like your charging fuse....Check the yellow wire that comes out of it to the rectifier and the black to the main grounds. The one on the other outer side is the main fuse, I need to know if your lights are working....that will tell you if it's the line to the main relay.

[florentino]

Originally posted by DVS_Freestyler
can anyone look into what fuse does what on the harness that's located in the rear plastic on the throttle side of the bike. when I press the starter button the outside fuse blows everytime and I can't locate the short. never had this happen on any of my quads till now. also want to remove all the light wires but waiting for my shop manual to do so. any help?

Thanks fellas!!

DG

sounds like you have a hot wire that is making contact to bare metal. will the bike run if you push it? is your fuel pump working?
maybe the starter relay just some ideas. and also get a volt meter.

[blaster99]

I have had it happen once before a race. I couldn't figure it out, so I gave my harness to BCS, problem solved.

[TNT]

Originally posted by blaster99
I have had it happen once before a race. I couldn't figure it out, so I gave my harness to BCS, problem solved.

Funny you said that I went to look at the fuse and forgot I got none/BCS harness......lol! Agree well worth the money, it be nice if they could have got rid of the relays but the ECM talks to them too much you need some way to turn on/off voltage.

If it's the line to the main relay and fuse there will be no-lights, fuel pump, since the ECM is not coming on.

If its the charging fuse lines the battery is not charging from the magneto-rectifier and the quad may be trying to start/run on low battery amps. One could try and jump the starter or push start w/a fully charged battery to remove this possibility. If the quad dies after a while of drops voltage it's in this line, maybe a bad rectifier.

[DVS_Freestyler]

heres where im at.

I was told to unplug the fuel pump and try it, and also make sure the wires on the solenoid aren't touching. I unplugged the fuel pump and double checked the wires in back and spread them apart, fuel pump turns on no fuse burnt but still will not fire. i think it may have been something to do with my solenoid as to why it kept blowing, so i replaced it. i bypassed the solenoid and touched it with metal and it starts and runs fine. I even tried plugging in my stock starting switch and still will not fire. Hmmmm, getting closer i guess.

I pulled a harness of a spare and overnighted to BCS just to be sure, but still want to get this harness ready to ride asap. by touching the solenoid ends together and it starts should mean there are no shorts or bare metal touching correct?

Derek

[florentino]

Originally posted by DVS_Freestyler
heres where im at.

I was told to unplug the fuel pump and try it, and also make sure the wires on the solenoid aren't touching. I unplugged the fuel pump and double checked the wires in back and spread them apart, fuel pump turns on no fuse burnt but still will not fire. i think it may have been something to do with my solenoid as to why it kept blowing, so i replaced it. i bypassed the solenoid and touched it with metal and it starts and runs fine. I even tried plugging in my stock starting switch and still will not fire. Hmmmm, getting closer i guess.

I pulled a harness of a spare and overnighted to BCS just to be sure, but still want to get this harness ready to ride asap. by touching the solenoid ends together and it starts should mean there are no shorts or bare metal touching correct?
you can have a short and still be able to hot wire the quad.
so your swich at the handle bar sends the signal to the starter relay i would check that cable

check the swich at the handle bars put one from onother bike.
i dont know if you have a kill swich . since 2 wires where touching one may be bad already.

Derek

[TNT]

Originally posted by DVS_Freestyler
heres where im at.

I was told to unplug the fuel pump and try it, and also make sure the wires on the solenoid aren't touching. I unplugged the fuel pump and double checked the wires in back and spread them apart, fuel pump turns on no fuse burnt but still will not fire. i think it may have been something to do with my solenoid as to why it kept blowing, so i replaced it. i bypassed the solenoid and touched it with metal and it starts and runs fine. I even tried plugging in my stock starting switch and still will not fire. Hmmmm, getting closer i guess.

I pulled a harness of a spare and overnighted to BCS just to be sure, but still want to get this harness ready to ride asap. by touching the solenoid ends together and it starts should mean there are no shorts or bare metal touching correct?

Derek

So let me make sure I understand, you put a new solinoid in but you have to jump across the poles w say a metal screw driver so the fuse does not blow? When You do that it starts fine and runs good fuse won't blow? But if you don't jump the new noid it blows a fuse?

[Sniper05]

I'd like to know myself! Mine does the same thing, and same fuse! But mine I can ride for a few and it'll blow out of the blue? I've run voltage checks and I can't figure it out? If anyone finds anything out, please let me know! By the way it's the 20A fuse on the throttle side rear fuse!

[Sniper05]

TTT anyone else have any ideas?? I need help:eek:

[Sniper05]

Somebody please help, this things got me madder than a wet hen!:mad: it blows so many fuses you cant even ride, its hard to keep power long enough to try to figure it out! Its a Red wire with a grey tracer! And its the 20A fuse on the throttle side in the plastic! You'll be ridin along and itll just die!

[florentino]

Originally posted by Sniper05
Somebody please help, this things got me madder than a wet hen!:mad: it blows so many fuses you cant even ride, its hard to keep power long enough to try to figure it out! Its a Red wire with a grey tracer! And its the 20A fuse on the throttle side in the plastic! You'll be ridin along and itll just die!

sounds like a bare wire rubbing other wires.
i have removed my head lites and rear lites and the temp lites by the gas tank they never work any ways. the less wires you have the better. i once had the samething and it was the batt cable was loose.
so take the plastics off and take the time to check all conections.
spray the electric cleaner at all the wire conetions. unplug and plug back,
you have 3 relays on the front take them out and put them back together. some times you get corrosion. from the times you wash your quad. i hope this helps

[Sniper05]

I Thank ya man! i have done a little bit of tracin, but nothin turned up? I guess ill have to keep lookin! Im at the point now im think im gonna get that BCS racin harness, and be done! I just hope thats the problem, i was kinda thinkin it might be the fuel pump, cause it seems if i let it cool down it runs longer, it seems like if the pump was draggin and drawin more amps, it would do that?

[florentino]

Originally posted by Sniper05
I Thank ya man! i have done a little bit of tracin, but nothin turned up? I guess ill have to keep lookin! Im at the point now im think im gonna get that BCS racin harness, and be done! I just hope thats the problem, i was kinda thinkin it might be the fuel pump, cause it seems if i let it cool down it runs longer, it seems like if the pump was draggin and drawin more amps, it would do that?

do you have holes on the plastics by the tank. ??
how hot is it where you ride?
and after how long will it die?
you can hear the fuel pump?
so you can also test your fuel pump pressure.
bcs harnes is like 500 bucks or more.
do you have lites on your quad?
did you cut the pink wire?
all of this info will help
list all of the mods in your quad.
spark air and fuel one thing at the time. good luck

[Sniper05]

Originally posted by florentino
do you have holes on the plastics by the tank. ??
how hot is it where you ride?
and after how long will it die?
you can hear the fuel pump?
so you can also test your fuel pump pressure.
bcs harnes is like 500 bucks or more.
do you have lites on your quad?
did you cut the pink wire?
all of this info will help
list all of the mods in your quad.
spark air and fuel one thing at the time. good luck

-I dont have any holes by the tank!
-It was around *86 today!
-it all depends on how long it sits before i fire it back up, if i replace the fuse right away, maybe 30 sec! If i let it sit for about an hour, itll run for 30 minutes or longer, but eventualy blows the fuse!
-yes you can hear the pump run!
-i just heard that the BCS harness eliminates all the BS?
-Whats the pink wire Mod??
-The quad is basicly stock motor, Yoshi full exhaust, filter and Moto-works EFI tuner

[florentino]

Originally posted by Sniper05
-I dont have any holes by the tank!
-It was around *86 today!
-it all depends on how long it sits before i fire it back up, if i replace the fuse right away, maybe 30 sec! If i let it sit for about an hour, itll run for 30 minutes or longer, but eventualy blows the fuse!
-yes you can hear the pump run!
-i just heard that the BCS harness eliminates all the BS?
-Whats the pink wire Mod??
-The quad is basicly stock motor, Yoshi full exhaust, filter and Moto-works EFI tuner

when ever you put a aftermarket pipe you have to cut the pink wire. its like a cherry bomb for the ltr. its free and it changes the map in the computer. if you dont have that done you may be runnig lean. bike will run way better too.
now you have the efi tuner but i think you still have to cut it.
tnt is the can am guru that can tell you for sure.
trobleshoot one thing at a time and you will be fine.
i recomend that you read all the treads too.

[TNT]

What fuse what wire. Are you sure it's red/grey to a 20 AMP fuse you say where under the seat or LH side frame?

[Sniper05]

Sure am, I'm positive! Its the neon green 20A fuse in the plastic under the seat on the throttle side, the wires comin off that fuse holder are solid red-red w/ grey tracer! From what i seen it runs back toward the battery, and also i seen that red and grey wire on the second fuse holder above the engine on the shifter side! But i cant figure out why it keeps blowin those fuses! I was just gonna break down and spend the coin the race harness, but i didnt wanna spend all that money and it be a draggin fuel pump or something mechanical causing it?

[TNT]

Per wire diagram there s/b two 20 amp fuse on the ends of that holder, one is charging the other main(ECM)...

Out of the Magneto are 3-yellow wires to the the rectifer, out of it 1-red/yellow hot and black ground to the 20 am chargeing fuse. Out of it solid red to the battery, out of it solid red to the main fuse and to the solenoid then starter motor. Thats the circuit ok.

If the rectifier is bad it will continue to blow the chargeing fuse, test this by disconnecting the rectifier so it sees full battery power only put a new fuse in and see if it blows.....If it does blow check for a defective wire between the charging fuse and rectifier connector.

Let me know....

[Sniper05]

Ok is the rectifier the piece thats mounted on the throttle side on the subframe that has a cooling ribs?

So what your sayin is, install a new fuse, unhook the rectifier, and that tricks it by sayin its fully charged? then start the quad and ride it to see if it blows it? I really appreciate it man!

[TNT]

Yes, thats the rectifer...it should have 3 yellow wires into it from the magneto, and 1-red/YL & 1-black wire out to the fuse then red to the battery, disconnect the rectifers output connector to the fuse/battery. Leave it connected to the battery turn the key and quad on, make sure the battery is fully charged(you should get battery voltage 12-14 volts @ the fuse terminal or disconnected rectifier connector), see if it blows. If it blows when the rectifer is disconnect you know it's not the rectifer check the wire between the fuse and rectifer(do a continuity check). If it does not blow your rectifer is bad since it blows when the rectifer is connected.

That make sense?

[Sniper05]

So i dont unplug the rectifier, how do i leave it connected to the battery? i did unplug it the other day and clean all the terminals! I know what yout talkin about, but a little unsure on if i have to disconnect certain wires from it or just unplug the whole thing? Thanks TNT for being patient, this things got me frustraited LOL

[TNT]

Yeah leave the battery connected and disconnect the rectifer see if it blows. If it does not reconnect it see if it blows.

Let me know...

[Sniper05]

Thanks buddy!! I'll definatly let ya know!!

[Sniper05]

Well TNT, I tested he rectifier and it still blew th fuse with it unhooked! So what wires do I need to test? I only get continuty in the red wire the rest have nothing! I'm stumped!

[Sniper05]

Also where is the magneto? I'm trying to trace those 3 yellow wires comin from the rectifier!

[Sniper05]

I ran a continuity check from the fuse to the rectifier I.E the red/yellow wire and it has continuity! I also looked for shaffed wired goin to the magneto and they look good!

[TNT]

Maybe we are looking at the wrong circuit, remember I told you there are two fuse back there, a charging and a main.

The charging fuse has a RD/YL in RD out and goes to the battery.

The main fuse has a RD in and RD/green out...

Which one is blowing?

[Sniper05]

I think i found it? The red/grey tracer is the fuse that keeps blowin, i traced it out to a grey connector on the clutch side thats right behind the black frame frame rail that has that wire running to it, when i unhooked the connector, i noticed a shaffed wire that had maybe has been rubbin along the frame! So i'll fire it up tomorrow and see if it blows again!

[TNT]

You sure thats not red/beige? I don't see a red/grey anywhere on the wire diagram....I do see a junction/connector out of the main relay then t-off through the connector you are talking about to both the fan-accessory/fuel pump fuses(rd/be wires to both in and out of the connector).

The fan is a 20amp so it must be it.....if the wire does not fix it go to your relays front of quad under plastic hood and swap the middle of 3 with any outer, then pull the both outer relays out and see if blows. The center is the main relay which may have a bad cooling pin connection, the two outers are fan which be a bad relay and fuel pump.

We're getting close! :cool:

[Sniper05]

I'm almost pos it's red/grey tracer! But I appreciate all your help man! I'll surely let ya know!

[TNT]

Theres a red/violet on the diagram ....When you remove those outer relays like I said in my last post that will take the fan/accessories and fuel pump out of the circuit and tell us something. Try a new or different relay in the middle main too. Good luck!

[Sniper05]

Yea I seen the red/violet one! I tried tracing it out to cause it's in the same fuse holder, the fuse that keeps blowin is the red/grey tracer, and when I found the wire shaffed goin to that connector I would assume that had to be the reason it was blown! I'll give it a try and it if it keeps blowin, I start with the relays! Thanks man!

[Sniper05]

Well the wire defiantly wasn't it:(. But I'm Trying the relays right now, I pulled the center one and replaced it with an outer, and pulled the outer two and it wouldn't start, so I figured the one is the pump so I put it back in and left the other one out! It's sittin here runnin right now, cross your fingers, invoke it's just a bad relay!

[Sniper05]

I ran a voltage check on the relay spot that's gone, it ran for a while and didn't blow, but, I got a voltage reading of 42V! WTF? Is that right? All the other lines made like 13V except that one! But it didn't blow, so should I buy a new relay, i hate leaving it run real long without a fan?

[Sniper05]

Well here's the deal! It ran with just the main and what I believe is the fuel pump relay! I shut the quad off put the other relay back in(red w/black, grey w/white tracer, orange w/white, and another red w/black tracer)I fired it back up, it ran for about 20 seconds then blew the fuse! So I'm assuming the fan relay is junk??

[TNT]

I had a hunch it was the fan/accessory circuit...yep those are the wires in/out of the fan relay, so take it and swap it with the fuel, it won't run see if it blows if it does disconnect the fan motor....or see if your getting voltage out of the fan relay check the brown/white(or gray/white) wire to the fan motor, do a continuity check on the motor if it does not come on. I cant remember when the stock fan motor comes in it maybe 20secs or so and causing this. The ECU closes the relay points then the motor comes on when it gets above 70F and the thermostat shuts I think.....so if the coils/armature in the motor are shot or relay points stuck open fuse blows.

If it's not the fan relay or motor we go downstream to the head light power regulator, just follow the rd/bk and rd/vi wires to it, same checks.

I bet it's bad equipment like a fan motor, regulator, light, vs wire maybe....but check the wires too.

[Sniper05]

So you think it might be a bad fan motor VS a bad relay? It ran fine until i stuck the relay back in the socket! When i did, it didnt take no time for it to blow and the quad just dies! I was gonna buy a new relay tomorrow and see if that fixes my problems!

[TNT]

It be a good idea to put all new relays in anyway they go out often and have some on hand, ppl get them at auto stores cheap. I dunno, I'd put a new one in see if it still blows if it does disconnect the fan, we'll go from there.

If you can find something to wrap your new relays in, plastic, or a water proove box, I know some of the after-market race harneses do this....

Let me know.

[TNT]

Oh I forgot to mention while your at the auto store pick up some di-electric grease dab it on all your connections, relays, connectors, ECU, etc.....

[Sniper05]

Thanks buddy! I'll let ya know!!

[Sniper05]

Well TNT i believe i found out whats wrong! Bad fan motor! Its locked up tight as a drum! Explains alot now, cause when i would ride, the times would vary when the fuse would blow, when the fan would cycle, there goes the fuse! I also replaced the relay just to be safe! Now i need a new fan motor? Any suggestions on where to get one, preferably soooon!

Thanks again TNT!!!

Chad

[TNT]

Thats great news you found it.....BCS, MotoWorks, Warnert, ebay, can probably get new or used.....I'd go new...My dealer ask for Devin tell em TNT sent ya: www.marineworld.com

Some of the race teams above have put over size ones in like Honda, ask them about that, rewire them to stay on always and remove thier thermostat. Only down side is the engine is not allowed to heat up properly from 0-70F which can cause wear.

Good luck!

[florentino]

Originally posted by Sniper05
Well TNT i believe i found out whats wrong! Bad fan motor! Its locked up tight as a drum! Explains alot now, cause when i would ride, the times would vary when the fuse would blow, when the fan would cycle, there goes the fuse! I also replaced the relay just to be safe! Now i need a new fan motor? Any suggestions on where to get one, preferably soooon!

Thanks again TNT!!!

Chad

some times the fan is touching the stembar and locks the fan. that was my case. so i put spacers and problem solve.
see how close you are to the stem bar. and test your fan outside.
you can hotwire your fan to run all the time. if you remove your headlites you can use that swich to turn it on and off.
ever since i did that no more limp mode or over heating.
i am glad you dont have to buy a harness

[Sniper05]

Well I took the fan off and you can't spin the fan, it's tight as a drum! So I'm sure it the motor locked up, I've looked everywhere and can't find one? I was kinda wantin to stay away from the dealer, I'm sure they want a arm and a leg or one!