Installed sparks key. Crappy results.

[lyrikz74]

I put the sparks key in my 2008 TRX400ex. And to say i was bummed is an understatement. This sucks.

Pre sparks, it would lift the front end in 1st, 2nd, 3rd with EASE> Even if i had a passenger on the front.

Post sparks, front end doesnt want to come up for crap now.. Torque feels awful. The only gains are it seems to pull a tiny bit better iin the midrange... But thats it. Im pullin the key back out today... Have to give it a thumbs down.

Is there anything im missing as to why the lowend is so lacking now?

[CJM]

Your sure you installed it wrong, it sounds almost as if you put it in backwards.

[lyrikz74]

This is the notched key. Red facing outwards. Really hard to screw this one up.

Just has no low end, but more top end.... Thats how it feels...

[CJM]

Yea, its just very odd since you have almost the opposite of what the key does.

Ill wait for someone with a bit more expierance with them to chime in-but to me it doesnt seem right.

[lyrikz74]

Originally posted by CJM
Yea, its just very odd since you have almost the opposite of what the key does.

Ill wait for someone with a bit more expierance with them to chime in-but to me it doesnt seem right.

The bike has a pipe and an aftermarket filter if that helps.. Just a bolt on muffler.

I figured it was designed to advance the timing. That would basically do exactly what its doing now. I was just bummed...

[fearlessfred]

just wandering what octane fuel u are running

[honda400ex2003]

key is def for the mid and top end increase not for low end. I am not sure if you read this somewhere but it wont really help out low end much if at all. but i have had the same results with it. i think you would be happier with the 3 since it is a compromise of both. you dont lose as much low and gain some top end. steve

[JOHNDOE83]

If you have a aftermarket cdi, that could be your problem???

[honda400ex2003]

* as a bit of a side note. was it really needed to hit 3 of the sparks key threads before starting a complete new one again and use profanity on one. not trying to bash but... lol steve

[bkelley]

I didn't notice any loss in low-end power. Though, I did drop a tooth in my front sprocket. The main thing I noticed was the better throttle response.

[CarGuy7a]

That's odd because I just did this mod myself and really didn't notice any bottom end power loss. I did notice it pull harder once the RPM's got to the mid range though.

Like others have said are you 100% sure you put the key in correctly? If you are looking at the crank shaft with the flywheel off and the key way is at 12 o clock position, the milled spot on the key should be towards the rear allowing the flywheel to be rotated counter clockwise more than it was stock.

[lyrikz74]

Originally posted by fearlessfred
just wandering what octane fuel u are running

89 octane.


If you have a aftermarket cdi, that could be your problem???

No aftermarket CDI..


* as a bit of a side note. was it really needed to hit 3 of the sparks key threads before starting a complete new one again and use profanity on one. not trying to bash but... lol steve

LOL. Sorry about the profanity. As for hittin up 3 threads, ya, i wanted people to see that not everyone is having the same epic results as the rest. I would have to say its the worst mod yet. Unless of course im missing something.


I didn't notice any loss in low-end power. Though, I did drop a tooth in my front sprocket. The main thing I noticed was the better throttle response.

I have a tooth dropped in the front also. I notice a gain in the mid, but its not really worth the loss at the bottom end.


That's odd because I just did this mod myself and really didn't notice any bottom end power loss. I did notice it pull harder once the RPM's got to the mid range though.

Ya, thats what im seeing. I mean, i rode in moses lake weekend before without the key. And i was having the front come up all the time. I then went home, changed the key, went back to moses lake 5 days later and it was literally TOUGH to lift the front end up.
My only thoughts are is there so much more power that the wheels just spin and not DIG in and lift the front?????

[CarGuy7a]

Originally posted by lyrikz74



Ya, thats what im seeing. I mean, i rode in moses lake weekend before without the key. And i was having the front come up all the time. I then went home, changed the key, went back to moses lake 5 days later and it was literally TOUGH to lift the front end up.
My only thoughts are is there so much more power that the wheels just spin and not DIG in and lift the front?????

Maybe. You also have to remember, the surface conditions you rode in 5 days earlier, were more than likely completely different when you went back. It could have been dryer and slicker not causing you to hook up as well. Also air quality could have been different as well. If it was a little hotter and more humid, it would have decreased motor power a slight amount.

I've even noticed that riding on my buddy's trails at his house. Some days the front end will pick up pretty much without trying, and then the next weekend it'll just feel like it's struggling to do it.

There is a lot of factors that come into play.

I say keep running it for a while and get more rides on it before you make a final decision on what to do, whether to take it back out or leave it in.

[lyrikz74]

SOunds good. Should i run better gas also?

[fearlessfred]

im not a 400ex guy, but i would think if u advanced the timing u would need hirer octane maybe steve could chime in on this one

[honda400ex2003]

agreed. i would run 91 at least. i run 91 on my 10:1 with the 3 right now with no problems. stock comp is 9.3:1 so you arent much lower than me. I have ran the 6 on my 10:1 also with no problems but it is ethanol free. i would always recommend getting that. even with the little bit of ethanol in the 10% stuff it still burns hotter and would need a bit of a jet change in my opinion. check out wheelies thread also, he has some great test results in there. steve

[honda400ex2003]

As more info, i have ran both my stage 1 and 2 cams with my 10:1 with both my 400 carb and my 450 carb and had the same results as you did. more top and mid range with both. imo you could make up for that with taking the choke out. that combined with the 6 degree is a great combo and will run strong. get a 42 pilot and go to around 2.25 or so turns out on the f/a and you would be good to go. maybe even a 45 would be good then you can go in a bit more and have really easy starting. i dont suggest it if it gets really cold out though. i put my choke back in for the winter months here in WI. lol i forgot to look where you were from so it may not be an issue. if not then 42 would be my choice. steve

[lyrikz74]

Originally posted by honda400ex2003
agreed. i would run 91 at least. i run 91 on my 10:1 with the 3 right now with no problems. stock comp is 9.3:1 so you arent much lower than me. I have ran the 6 on my 10:1 also with no problems but it is ethanol free. i would always recommend getting that. even with the little bit of ethanol in the 10% stuff it still burns hotter and would need a bit of a jet change in my opinion. check out wheelies thread also, he has some great test results in there. steve


Some updates. I went riding last weekend. Well, for kicks and giggles i took off my air lid box. I have an aftermarket filter on.
WOW!. All that low end is back. I could lift the front with the kid on the front without trying.... This was after riding quite a few times with the lid on, then i decided to see how clean my AF was and decided to leave it off. HUGE difference.

Im sure i need to rejet the bike now. With the air i have coming in and going out, combined with the key, i cant see myself being jetted right.

[CarGuy7a]

Originally posted by lyrikz74
Some updates. I went riding last weekend. Well, for kicks and giggles i took off my air lid box. I have an aftermarket filter on.
WOW!. All that low end is back. I could lift the front with the kid on the front without trying.... This was after riding quite a few times with the lid on, then i decided to see how clean my AF was and decided to leave it off. HUGE difference.

Im sure i need to rejet the bike now. With the air i have coming in and going out, combined with the key, i cant see myself being jetted right.

If it ran better and didn't cut out or pop any with the lid off then I'd say the jetting is close. If you were a bit rich with the lid on then it will run better with the lid off. If it runs crappier with the lid off then it usually means it's lean with the lid off but just right with it on.

Running with the lid open does make a difference. I couldn't believe it the first time I tried it.