Gusset question

[ml450r]

A-arm gusset

Does BCS have these?

[ml450r]

compared to this....

[TNT]

I cant think of why anyone would want those unless they cracked the frame there....I wouldn't add them since you have to drill out strong huck-bolts unless I had to.

[florentino]

Originally posted by TNT
I cant think of why anyone would want those unless they cracked the frame there....



I wouldn't add them since you have to drill out strong huck-bolts unless I had to.
tnt how is that you have to drill the huck bolts ?? i just cut them with the saw saw and they pop rigth out.

[TNT]

Originally posted by florentino
tnt how is that you have to drill the huck bolts ?? i just cut them with the saw saw and they pop rigth out.

If BRP installed them right they should fit in a hole that is .0005-.010 larger then the bolt shank diameter, often close reamed. In areas of high load like this where the arms are .0005. If you pop the collar off you take a chance in ruining the hole/fit. The fit is just as important as the swaged on permanent collar , in some cases more. We have a tool that breaks the collar off which is fine, on on secondary structure like bumpers, head light brackets, etc….I think BRP only uses these in high load areas.

Replacing permanent hucks with a torqued on nut and bolt is fine if you make sure to obtain the same fit and use red lock-tite. Most hucks come in stand sizes like bolts, 1/4, 3/8's, etc…but the shank tolerance is tighter.

If I where replacing one of these in a high load area like this, I'd drill and drift out carefully find a replacement bolt as snug as possible, passivated or aluminum pigmented coated grade A steel. I'd wet install(in the hole) with red-loc-tite, install nut with loc-tite torque to provide good compression clamp-up.

[florentino]

Originally posted by TNT
If BRP installed them right they should fit in a hole that is .0005-.010 larger then the bolt shank diameter, often close reamed. In areas of high load like this where the arms are .0005. If you pop the collar off you take a chance in ruining the hole/fit. The fit is just as important as the swaged on permanent collar , in some cases more. We have a tool that breaks the collar off which is fine, on on secondary structure like bumpers, head light brackets, etc….I think BRP only uses these in high load areas.

Replacing permanent hucks with a torqued on nut and bolt is fine if you make sure to obtain the same fit and use red lock-tite. Most hucks come in stand sizes like bolts, 1/4, 3/8's, etc…but the shank tolerance is tighter.

If I where replacing one of these in a high load area like this, I'd drill and drift out carefully find a replacement bolt as snug as possible, passivated or aluminum pigmented coated grade A steel. I'd wet install(in the hole) with red-loc-tite, install nut with loc-tite torque to provide good compression clamp-up.
thanks tnt i the big shanks i replace the with a 7/16s beause the 3/8s where too loose. so i got grade 8 bolts that shold do it.
pics coming soon i have made some gussets. and i am about to make the top pieces.he upper frame rails. i met a guy in san leandro who makes exotic frames of any kind so if i need help he can help.