First time MX on a 250r

[sangheraent]

well I rode my R on the track this weekend it was my 2nd time ever on a track on a quad first time didnt count really so it was my 1st legitimate time.

the handeling was amazing on this bike I could do the turns super quick and I could almost do anything and the bike would fly perfectly flat.

my bike was running at 250 degrees first moto I took off the ac bumper and it came down to 205. still a little hot for my liking might have to play with jetting.

I have a serious problem with my front brakes I read somewhere that a CBR front master would make braking alot easier but it seemed to do the opposite and requires some muscle to stop and after a little arm pump theres no stoping the bike.

did I read the information wrong or is my master messed up?

also my back rotor hub shakes is the only way around this a antifade? i figure all used parts will be at least 20 years old probably all going to be shaky.

got alot of compliments on the R even got a couple of people wanting to buy her.

[cdrookie]

i bought a cbr master cylinder also, as i read it was the hot set up. well it sucks, going back to the 400ex master cylinder.

[wilkin250r]

Originally posted by sangheraent
also my back rotor hub shakes is the only way around this a antifade? i figure all used parts will be at least 20 years old probably all going to be shaky.

A lot of parts have been discontinued, but many are still available, and I haven't checked on the brake hubs or rotor, but it might be possible to get one that's not 20 years old.

However, I'd still recommend the antifade, they're only a couple hundred, not terribly expensive, and gives you other benefits as well.

[MossboysRacing]

450r front master cylinder is the way to go. i ebayed one for 35 bucks, and bought a rebuild kit from my honda dealer. Its awesome as long as you bleen them good.

[sangheraent]

yeah im definetly going with the 450r master cylinder the cbr one if mines functioning correctly is terrible.

Iv seen some antifades around 100 or so used i think im just gonna keep my eyes open for one.

is there anyway to cool the bike down enough to keep that bumper on i like the way it looks but i dont want my bike to blow up.

[deathman53]

that is way too hot for the motor to run. Your temp guage is probably off, if it was running 250, it would be puking coolant. Even 205 is too hot for the motor to run on a regular basis. My 250r's run tops 200 and thats tight mx or somewhat tight woods riding. What radiator are you using? are the fins bent? is your water pump working right? have radiator shrouds? whats your timing and jetting? All of these have a part in how hot your bike runs. Also is the temp gauge on the line from the head or the bottom of radiator?

[sangheraent]

at 250 it was puking coolant. my bike was at 190 when it was jetted rich(180 main 38a/s) before but since I droped a size on the main it went up a little bit. it runs better but it runs hotter. Im going to check for an air leak and run a cooler plug. my rad is stock and my fins are good. the temp gauge is in the right place and the water pump works as far as I know.

when the bike sits the water temp reads at about room temp and if it sits in the sun it gets slightly warmer so i think its reading correctly.

178 main needle middle clip 48 pilot.
68mm bore lrd ported 86 top with 89 bottom w/spacer
38 a/s
K&N with airbox
cr250reeds
b8es plug
stock timing
lrd team b pipe
19cc dome
170 compression

[deathman53]

I had a motor that ran hot, granted it was a 330 in a atc(small radiators), it turned out to be one or both crank seals bad and a cranking carb-cylinder tube. I tried alot to cool it down, even went up to a 205 main. After I fixed the problems, this was after the top end went, it ran far cooler and I leaned out the jetting alot and it still ran rich.

[sangheraent]

hmm i know my clutch side seal isnt leaking because it was and I changed it haha. I will check my stator and head and pipe make sure there all sealed up.

I think i remember a trick to check the stator seal but im not 100% sure if its right been a while. with the cover off can I spray wd40 behind the flywheel and see if the idle is effected at all?

[K-Dub]

The best fix for the front brakes is: 04/05 knuckle, hubs, rotors, calipers, and master cylinder. The whole set up if you watch can be had for under $300. Then everything is only 6 years old at the oldest and all the parts still avalible from Honda.

As far as the crank seal test: 6 pounds for 6min. Seal the exuast port, take a soft plug that fits the intake boot and put a tire valve in the soft plug. Then take a hand pump pump to 6 psi and monitor for 6 min. If it holds you have no leak.