clutch bell blues

[fomospede]

ok guys ive been on this machine for a while and knew it was not right in the clutch area when it was cold it would do fine but after that it would fall off in the power and was not right! so finally last night i spun a shoulder bolt down to a tight fit into the clutch bell splined hole and found it my stage 6 bell has .014 runout thats horrible i cant believe what weve been missing, just goes to show everybody that throwing money at something goes no where if those parts arent n e good either!!!!!!!

[Coley'sdad#8]

I can't make heads nor tails of what your explaining but I will tell you that we haven't had any issues with the adjustable s-6 clutches on either one of our bikes. What is the shoe material thickness on your shoe, should be about 4mm new condition and if too thin could be causing a slippage problem. I will say that these s-6 parts aren't just made for these miniquads in face these are made for scooter racing overseas, yeah these little 70's on a scootyer overseas is running over 100mph.
I have always had luck with the quality of the s-6

[fomospede]

the clutch outer hub that the shoes ride against was .014 out of center between the center splined hub and the shoe riding surface. i had issues with poor hot performance ,overheating and poor accelration
he rode it for 45minutes straight with out a problem and it put way more power to the ground!

[mydirtkids]

Sounds like an odd defect. I agree with Coley, S-6 has been an excellent product.. other than their rollers:blah:

[MAXRPM]

Out of round is often caused from warping due to overheating it. If you say it is blue than most likely it shows more blue in one area then another area meaning one side vs the other side. This is why it is out of round because you warped it when it got too hot and that is why it shows more blue in one area. Not really a default in product but you were slipping it too much due to too much stall for torque that the motor makes and the only fix is to replace it. 99% of the time if a bell is not evenly blue all the way around it has been warped due to heat and should be replaced for even acceleration. If it was good when you first got it and got worse then it most likely was not out of round from the start.

[redonkulousruntsracing]

If you have one of the CNC bells, you have to machine 3mm off the center where it slides on the shaft.

[fomospede]

i had issues from day one with this clutch , like most i thought it to be many of a variety of problems that i had checked adjusted rechecked only to come back to the same problem
low stall rpm
uneven clutch spring tension
compression
jetting
and many more things
, it wouldn't keep me from buying the same product again, but i will always scrutinize ALL products . not only visual but thru a blueprint process so i know what i am starting with!
true i may have damaged it myself but i doubt it the bell was not blue as max described,and it has never ran out this good .it idles smooth, pulls super strong and even needed some tuning on the bottom end as the idle was to hi with he bell straightened!
MAXRPM i think i will by a new bell as you said and start with fresh shoes ,thanks for your input!

[mydirtkids]

Originally posted by sickairseth
If you have one of the CNC bells, you have to machine 3mm off the center where it slides on the shaft.

Is this why the nut seems to be a little short on thread? Also noticed the pads are at the very end of the bell..

It works excellent the way it is, just always wondered about it.

[redonkulousruntsracing]

yup, on the side that goes toward the clutch, it is recommended that 3mm gets machined off so the bell covers the pads completely and the nut has enough threads to properly engage. This is only on the CNC machined bells.

[mydirtkids]

Yup, thats how mine came. The CNC bell just BARELY covered the pads. I think I will still machine it down to get more threads on the nut. Don't you love how all this stuff comes with instructions! Even better, go to their websites... :huh Thanks for the tip..