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A.Fiestras
06-06-2010, 04:31 PM
Hello! I have two can-am ds450x(they haven't very use). And the problem has two... The problem is that it breaks the junction of the two portfolios of oil in the area down, back. A which is due this problem? The most effective solution?

Thank you very much, greetings.

X400EX
06-06-2010, 09:28 PM
Do you have any pics?

A.Fiestras
06-08-2010, 02:00 AM
http://img197.imageshack.us/img197/1364/canamds45006.jpg (http://img197.imageshack.us/i/canamds45006.jpg/)

Uploaded with ImageShack.us (http://imageshack.us)

loss of oil by the board, in the area marked in red.

TNT
06-08-2010, 08:01 AM
That’s the lower engine mount case tab where the swing arm goes through, I believe you mean “case” by “portfolio”? At the split line the gasket is not wide enough to prevent oil leaks. The best way to fix this is to split the case build the area up with epoxy(JB weld or other), file it flush with the two case half mating surfaces, build an auxiliary gasket that surrounds the engine bolt. Alternative temporary fix use RTV high temp sealants or filler to keep it from leaking until you have time/money to split the cases.

While you’re at it epoxy the fillet by the sprocket that has been cracking (see the “Cracked Cases” thread by Comander420 below. Also if you pull the motor you should have steel bonded in tubular sleeve through the case/engine mount that will help prevent this crack from occurring, there is a service bulletin on this.

The steel sleeve takes away gasket material by the larger hole that is drilled to install it causing oil leaks on some quads.

A.Fiestras
06-08-2010, 11:24 AM
well, I will replace the junction but I think that it will broke again. It is the second time I break into this quad, but this time I also broke the other quad. In one if the shaft was loose but the other does not ... could be internal pressure and broke? Any tips for that does not happen again?

TNT
06-08-2010, 12:12 PM
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk191/Terrylport/SPAIN.jpg

If we are talking about the same thing (I’m having a little problem understanding you’re English so bear with me) then this has nothing to do with internal pressure. It has to do with the lack of gasket material surrounding the engine bolt area, the oil leak. The crack same thing but lack of metal around the bolt/sproket/swing.

So the area in green I am suggesting as one possible fix to fill both case halves with epoxy (JB weld, Devcon, Permatex) and make an extension case and gasket to fit in-between the JB weld. That will give the gasket more surface area to stop leaks in future.

If the shaft or engine bolt is loose it can cause oil leaks, or cracks so keep them tight. If the shaft is loose you have worn gears that need be looked at and specifications checked or it will cause problems.

The engine bolt should have a steel sleeve it goes through that is bonded in the case. If not it can cause cracks/oil leaks…..

If you do not have the crack yet fill it with epoxy to prevent it, if you have a crack TIG weld it.

JParisi48
06-08-2010, 06:13 PM
if we ordered 2 case gaskets would that work cuz it would be thicker? or is that a stupid question...

blaster99
06-08-2010, 07:30 PM
I have never heard of filling the gasket that pushes out with epoxy. I cover the crack in the case with epoxy, that way no oil gets out of the crack, but I guess you could epoxy the gasket...Might be a pain when splitting the cases so I wouldn't recommend it.

JParisi48
06-08-2010, 08:17 PM
Originally posted by blaster99
I have never heard of filling the gasket that pushes out with epoxy. I cover the crack in the case with epoxy, that way no oil gets out of the crack, but I guess you could epoxy the gasket...Might be a pain when splitting the cases so I wouldn't recommend it.

how do u recommend stopping the leak?

TNT
06-09-2010, 06:27 AM
Here I keep trying to feed both this thread and HQ. If you loc-tite the bolt in good especially at the case split line that will help seal the leak around the bolt. The manual does not call for sealant on the gasket I could find.

Besides that Blaster's idea to epoxy the split line is not bad, or below I show building the case up around the bolt with epoxy then make an extension gasket.

This is a result of the sleeve and hole taking away gasket material.

There is a recall on the engine bolt it adds a sleeve/bushing I don't know the SB #, yes 09 has…….See my picture a section cut looking to rear of quad. Sleeve in blue, case in red, lock-tite epoxy the two together....engine bolt is grey. This loc-tite epoxy will seal the gasket too...

http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk191/Terrylport/Slide1-9.gif

To solve the oil leak better I suggest to build the cases up with epoxy and make more gasket..see my picture from the side of the quad looking at the swing arm bolt....

http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk191/Terrylport/Slide2-6.gif

Some cases crack as shown in this picture I suggest you put epoxy there to prevent it…..The sprocket shaft and engine bolt must be tight free of play….

http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk191/Terrylport/SPAIN.jpg

blaster99
06-09-2010, 06:54 AM
TNT, That picture makes more sense. I guess it wouldn't really do any harm to do that. For some reason I have not lost the case gasket since my first one went, and I had my dealer replace it.

comander420
06-10-2010, 07:11 PM
Do what TNT said
"If you do not have the crack yet fill it with epoxy to prevent it, if you have a crack TIG weld it."

Or if it were me to do again and mine wasn't cracked I would still find someone to lay down a TIG weld in that area to beef that weak zone up. Also I would have "glued" the spacer in as well.

See cracked case thread for my fix that is holding up so far so good and is a lot easier and cheaper than changing the cases which will more than likely crack again.

jlrenken
06-14-2010, 08:58 AM
how can u glue the spacer. if u do that how do u get it the case apart.

TNT
06-14-2010, 09:16 AM
Originally posted by jlrenken
how can u glue the spacer. if u do that how do u get it the case apart.

You apply localized heat to the steel insert, Permatex red loctite should break down @ 450 F max.

jlrenken
06-14-2010, 12:15 PM
so just red loctite wont work. i know whenever ive taken it apart the sleeve just slipped out. but i aways use plain red loctite

TNT
06-14-2010, 12:43 PM
No I'm saying red lock is fine but may need some heat to unbond it when you want the sleeve out and case apart.

I think thats part of the reason why ppl are having issues with leaks/cracked cases, that sleeve should not fall out. When they do the update I understand they use a "special driill" which is probably a close ream to build in a sealant gap in there for loctite. If you don't seal it in it will have play, leak, and cause unwanted case vibrations/cracks.

I hear they just released a new bulletin with a new 3-piece sleeve which imo is a crock, the one peice is fine the case needs to be beefed up in the small fillet area. If it cracks just weld or epoxy it, the new sleeve is $200 or something rip off imo.