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View Full Version : long time coming... but im almost there



woodsracer144
06-01-2010, 07:28 AM
Hey, guys and gals, kind of took a break for here due to work and school and i had to band my self so i could focus on that stuff but now im done with school. It is crazy to think my 250r has been down for half a year and the motor is finally coming to a very soon end. I ordered my piston today so i should be he mid to end of this week. Im really excited to see what this motor will put out cause I was planning on racing a TT series this summer but I dont think I would be able to now cause of the cost. But heres a little mods list of what i have going so for in the engine,

86 bottom end with a +4 Hotrods stroker
88-94? Cr250 Cylinder ported and polished by FTZ could run a alky set up but im gonna try something else.
40 MM Lectron carb
the piston im gonna try out is a Numaria normally i've ran pro-x and i've had really good luck with them but im getting a good deal on these so i though i could try them.
LRD exhaust
boysen 02b reeds IIRCC and thats about all for the motor,

I do have two questions,

1) on the bace plate motors where you would turn the rear studs for the Cyl out how far can you turn them out and still be safe? this Cr cyl has a huge rear mounting ear and i need a longer stud or back these ones i have out, the cases im running was running a factory 85 cylinder with out a bace plate.

2) i have 3 cylinder heads to choose from, the FTZ head, a OE trx head or a Cool dome, I dont know what one to run the CR head will run the highest compression, I dont know if you will understand this but know how some engines are set up so the piston comes above the cylinder just a little bit and the cylinder head is milled out for it? well the FTZ is the other way around, theres a little hup in the middle where the piston is but then when it goes to sit on the gasket its turned down. I've never heard or seen a set up like this, I dont want to be running a ton of PSI. Also whats a good PSI to change from 91 or 93 to 110 or something higher? to be honest im going to try and run a E85 on set up on this cause its at a 115 rating IIRCC if im wrong some one correct me please. I'll post a few pics of how things have came along, I was on a really tighet budget this fall cause of school but now its time to have some fun.

hontrx265r
06-01-2010, 09:49 AM
It would be better for you to order the cr500 cylinder studs and replace yours. They are the perfect length for the 4mm base plate.

woodsracer144
06-01-2010, 05:53 PM
Originally posted by hontrx265r
It would be better for you to order the cr500 cylinder studs and replace yours. They are the perfect length for the 4mm base plate.


thanks for the tip, i thought that people just backed them out a bit,

C-LEIGH RACING
06-02-2010, 10:50 AM
Or you could get a 3' stick 10mm drill rod & have some made the right lenght you need.
You could get a 10X1.25mm die as well to thread them with, but you would be better off having a machine shop thread them because you want the threads perfect & nothing less than.

It will be trial & error on the compression with the CR head.
Mount it up, do compression test, pull back off & cut squish area & bowl if compression's to high only way to do it. You could do a squish test with some soldier on top of the piston. Turn the crank backwards, squish the soldier & pull the head off & measure the soldier ends.
Anywhere from 0.035 to 0.045" the compression should come up about right, providing that exhaust port roof's not cut to high.
Just because that head is machined to protrude down into the cylinder bore, done mean it cant be machined.
Neil

woodsracer144
06-02-2010, 05:05 PM
Originally posted by C-LEIGH RACING
It will be trial & error on the compression with the CR head.
Mount it up, do compression test, pull back off & cut squish area & bowl if compression's to high only way to do it. You could do a squish test with some soldier on top of the piston. Turn the crank backwards, squish the soldier & pull the head off & measure the soldier ends.
Anywhere from 0.035 to 0.045" the compression should come up about right, providing that exhaust port roof's not cut to high.
Just because that head is machined to protrude down into the cylinder bore, done mean it cant be machined.
Neil

I think that CR head would run a Really high PSI with the dome the way it is set up not? whats the closest i want the piston to be to the dome? i didnt understand the .035 to .045 thing

86 Quad R
06-03-2010, 06:29 AM
Originally posted by woodsracer144
I think that CR head would run a Really high PSI with the dome the way it is set up not? whats the closest i want the piston to be to the dome? i didnt understand the .035 to .045 thing

meaning the squish clearance. :cool:

woodsracer144
06-03-2010, 11:47 AM
ah got ya. how big of a piece should i use for that?

mxduner
06-03-2010, 07:54 PM
the plumbing solder that comes in a roll, not the real thin stuff for electrical.

C-LEIGH RACING
06-04-2010, 07:17 AM
What you do, is before you bolt the head on, turn the crank backwards untill the piston is about 1/4" from being at TDC & then cut a piece of solder long enough that it will touch both sides of the cylinder bore, bend it just a little so it will lay flat on top of the piston, lay it side to side so it will be right over top of the wrist pin, bolt the head on & then take a scocket & ratchet & turn the flywheel backwards so the piston will squish the solder between the piston top & head.
Now pull the head back off, take that piece of solder out & measure the squished ends with a caliper & see how much clearance you got.
Neil