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View Full Version : Problem with 250x... Very frustrating to diagnose... Need help...



skier
05-04-2010, 08:32 AM
I've been having a progressively worse problem with my '91 250x that seems to be spark related, but I've yet figure out what's wrong...

Here's what it used to do when the problem first started:
It would start just fine when it was cold. It would run fine both cool and hot, and I could ride it for hours, as long as it stayed hot, but if I stopped it for more than a minute or two and let it cool a little, then I'd have a hard time starting it, eventually wearing myself out trying to start it, so then I'd hook up a tow strap to tow start it, and after pulling in (usually) 3rd gear, and playing with the throttle a little, it would fire up and as long as I kept it running for a minute or so by keeping the engine revs from getting too low, then it would [seemingly] heat back up and keep running/idling just fine again. Likewise, if it died and started it again quickly it would start again, but not if I let it sit too long.

Here's what it does now...
It has progressively gotten worse, so where it wants to die more often when the engine revs are lower; like I might just be sitting there idling and it will die and not want to start again. If I pull the plug and check the spark, I don't get spark...

The most irritating thing is that it's an intermittent problem, so hard to troubleshoot. I've checked/changed the plug, check all the resistance checks I can find in the book (e.g. primary and main ignition coils, exciter coil, etc), and checked the AC voltage output, etc and everything seems to be pretty much in spec. When I tried to repeat the problem at home (instead of say Sand Lake) I let it idle and it die fine for a long time, never died, turned it off for a few minutes, started up, ran it more, turned it off longer, still started fine. Rode it up and down some big hills in my neighbor hood to put a load on it (in case it mattered, since it was only like 40F outside), then let it idle again until the head was up to about 400F (measured by an IR multimeter that also measures temp) and the gas in the tank was actually boiling, but it just kept running and starting fine. It also had no issues when took it back to central Oregon back in Feb, but it was only 20-38F outside when we were riding, so maybe temp has something to do with it. Went to Sandlake a month or so ago (~50F) and I had problems all day, having to be pull started each time, but the running fine for a while after each pull start and turning my idle up fairly high.

This seems to be a pretty bizarre problem that I just can't seem to figure out. Things seem in spec, but intermittent. I also disconnected and reconnected pretty much every electrical connector I could find on the outside of the bike.

Anyone have any idea on things I might do to troubleshoot this further? Thanks.

-Mike

honda250xrider
05-04-2010, 09:03 AM
i would say it has to do with your jetting. What jet and pilot jet do you have in your carburetor along with where is the clip on the needle. Do you have any modifications done to your bike?

If you think its spark its really easy to test, simply remove the spark plug place the boot back on it and put the plug against the head. Kick it over a few times and it should spark consistently every time.

skier
05-04-2010, 09:24 AM
Oops... I can't believe I left out that important detail... Yes, when this happens, if I pull the plug and test it when it dies, I get no spark.

Just to answer your questions, the bike came with a K&N and a SuperTrap E.A.R. Exhaust. Never been sure if it was jetted at all, but it's ran great in this config for the last 6 years since I bought it, other than just this last year, where it's been getting progressively worse with this spark problem.

-Mike

honda250xrider
05-04-2010, 11:54 AM
The two things I had trouble with on these atv's were the cdi box and the stator. Usually the stator and cdi box would test fine on the meter but would not perform. After replacement of the part the bike would operate normal again.

If i remember right whenever my cdi boxes were going out or having issues they would act funny and would spark at times and other times it would not. This is a possibly cause to your problem but:

I would check your wires going into the on and off switch. Do you happen to have a tether switch installed on the bike?

I agree it seems as if you have a loose connection possibly could be a short in the wiring harness somewhere.

You may be better off picking up a full wiring harness with electronics off ebay; I'm sure you could pick one up for under what a new cdi box would cost you.


On another note though, the stator does have two separate sections one is to run the lights and the other is for the ignition. So one could potentially check out fine.

Also have you checked your ground wire out to make sure it is getting good contact?

skier
05-04-2010, 12:39 PM
If there no procedures for testing a CDI box?

I did check both the main and lighting coils on the bike and both checked out.

One thing I've not been able to do is check everything when it's NOT getting spark.

I've been out riding and had it die, but couldn't get it to die in my driveway when I had a multimeter handy.

Which ground wire are you talking about checking? I checked a few of them specified by the book, but which one are you asking about?

-Mike

skier
05-11-2010, 09:59 PM
Okay, so I finally got my bike to die while at home...

I checked all the ohm specs I could and everything was pretty much in spec, but it still wouldn't start.

So, my repair manual says that when all those ohm checks are in spec, you should:

-Check the AC voltage regulator
--Slowly rev the engine (not very specific about how high)
--Should be between 12.5 -13.5V
--If out of spec, replace the voltage regulartor

-If AC voltage regulator is fine, replace the CDI box.

Well, since it wouldn't start (and I didn't think to check it before, when it was running), I couldn't check the AC voltage regulator...

[The next day]

So, I borrowed an AC voltage regulator and a CDI box from a friend who also had a 250x. I went start my bike: No start, checked known good plug and got no spark. I tried my friend's CDI box, got a spark and it started fine. Tried my CDI box again, no spark/no start, tried his again, so I'm thinking my CDI box is bad...

But, now that it's running, I figured I'd check the AC voltage. At idle, I get about 12.3V (not bad), but when I rev the enging, it gets has high as 16-18 volts. The test for the AC regulator didn't say any particular RPM range to do the test, it only said "slowly rev the engine" and that it should be between 12.5 and 13.5. So, I thought "maybe my voltage regulator went out, and maybe the high voltage eventually made my CDI box go out.

So, I put my friend's voltage regulator in, and I got the same 16-18v when I reved the engine, leaving me to think either:

a)16-18v is normal when reving the engine, or
B)his regulator is bad too, and it just hasn't fried his CDI box yet

Does anyone know if this high of voltage is normal for an AC only bike (i.e. bikes without batteries/rectifiers/electric-start, like 250x, maybe 350x, etc)?

I'm confident that my CDI box is bad, but just not sure if I need to replace my regulator as well.

-Skier

skier
05-14-2010, 02:45 PM
Additional info/experiments...

(leaving me possibly more confused than ever)

The Voltage Regulator (VR) that I borrowed from my friend's bike, which gave the same high voltage readings on my bike as my VR was installed back into his bike, and we tested it as well:

My Bike: (reminder) Idles at ~12V, when you rev it, goes to 16-18V, using my VR or his VR (no change)

His Bike: with his VR - Idles at 12V, but drops to 6-8V when you rev it

Went and tested another friends bike (keeping in mind that these are all the same make/model-year bike), and this third bike did the same as my other friends.

So, I have my bike with a bad CDI, but when replaced runs at high voltage when reved, and two friends bikes that run at low voltage when reved.

I don't know what to believe is normal, if any of them... Have anyone worked with these bikes in the past and know what "normal" is? It makes me wonder if maybe my VR is bad and the high voltage blew my CDI, and maybe both of my friends bikes have poor performing stators that can't keep the voltage at 12V when the bikes rev, but which are good enough to give a spark...?

-Mike

skier
05-18-2010, 07:15 PM
Well, lacking any better guidance, I decided to go ahead and get both the CDI box and the Voltage Regulator. I'll post what I find the voltage to be after the new CDI and VR is installed.

-Mike