406 or 416

[CJM]

Based on my earlier thread of white smoke coming out the exhaust http://www.exriders.com/vbb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=436456 I tore it down and my measurements as best as I can do with my dial caliper arent even CLOSE to the service specs, if anything they are smaller than whats listed.

I also checked with a feeler gauge the piston to cylinder gap. It easily fit the .10mm gauge in and then some.

So looks like I need to rebuild the topend totally. More power is nice but reliability is key imho. Pump gas would be nice, I cannot get race gas easily and I dont want to have to redo anything for awhile at least.

So do I do 406 or do I do 416, Ive seen them on rocky mountain has one from pro x (never heard of it) for a .20 (416 is that?), it looks ok but IDK.

Anyone know good shops to send the jug out. Where to buy a good 406 or 416 kit? Should I spring for HD head studs, will the nuts that hold on the originals work, will I need new ones?

I of course realize the carb must be rejetted, where would you start-what jet size, etc?

I searched but this is alot to take in right now. I thought it was running fine till since I just put about 4 hours on it, I did lug around in 1st gear alot due to rocks (did that do that due to heat, it did get really hot!).

[CJM]

Just to clarify a bit:
1. Do I want a 406 or 416 kit, which would be more reliable and do I need to use race gas with either of them?

2. What place can I send the jug out to, should I spring for heavy duty head studs? Do I need new nuts then for the studs?

3. What reliable company/place can I get a 406 or 416 kit from? I searched google but didnt come up with much.

4. I think ill spring for a hotcam stage 1, will this be a bad idea with a 406/416?

Thanks in advance, I would really appreciate the input.

[honda400ex2003]

my vote goes to 416 setup just like my sig. lol. jetting is included. 10:1 can run on 89 if needed but recommended is 91 at least to help with heat. 11:1 and up go with the hd head studs. the studs have everything needed to do it, if you send the cylinder out to get it bored by them too. they should give you a good deal to do them both. otherwise you can get the studs and have a local guy do it if they are capable of doing both. I would go with a JE or a wiseco and stay away from pro x for sure. 416 is 87mm and is i think .020 over. I am not sure on the american though. there isnt really a kit per say unless you can find a combo from ebay or something. sometimes they have a decent combo with a cam, gaskets and a piston. for reliability for sure i would go with the 10:1 or 11:1. you wont get over 11:1 and stay on pump gas either. I think everything is covered by me and you will get a mixed reaction with this question. some guys like to save the bore and go 406 others like me like the 416. I would get a cylinder or go to a 426 if something happened to mine anyway. then if something happened it would be a 440. lol. steve

[CJM]

Steve to the rescue again lol.

Ok welp, I think ill spring for the HD studs anyways-100 bucks from GT thunder is some nice insurance incase.

Where did you get your parts from, any good sites you would recommend. Who did your bore work? I need to send it out, cause I dont know of any machine shops around my area that will do this kinda thing.

Just so I got it all I checked your sig: I should go with a 416, and wiseco 10:1 so I can run pump gas. Should be plenty of power for me too.

[honda400ex2003]

I got most of my stuff from dennis kirk and ebay but the site sponsors are great and have everything you will need. I use dk alot cause i can get the stuff overnight if i need it. lol. I had a local guy do mine from wausau wisconsin. he did a great job on it, he did my p and p, valve seals and valve lap also for around 200 dollars. most places will be more than that though for all of that. gt thunder would be a great place to have everything done and you could probably get the piston and such from them also. c and d racing is also a good place too. imo the 10:1 and 11:1 are not overly different if broken in correctly. I can run with honda#4(dallas)'s 11:1 416 with a stage 2 in it so I would say that they are pretty evenly matched there. I like the stage 1 for the slow lower end torque and wheelie power but if you like the mid and top a bit more(i suspect you like the lower end since you go through the rocks and such from your post above) you could get a stage 2 and try it out. either one would be a great combo with a stage 1 being a bit better choice for the 10:1 to keep the dynamic compression a bit higher. I have not had time to put the stage 2 i have waiting in mine to see how it does. so until then i like my 1 too much lol. I lost a bit of low end with the 450 carb and am in the process of trying to get it back again. It made up for it on top for sure but I want to get both back to have it even better up top and at the bottom out of the hole. lol I have some ideas up my sleeve to see if i can get it to really rip the dirt up. :devil: just gotta do them and see how it does. I think i got everything, you posted the second one as i was replying to the first lol. steve

[CJM]

Thanks again, ill look into it all.

Also, sparks key is a no no with the 416 bore right?

[honda400ex2003]

also this is just my ideal setup. lol. there are differences in needs and such, alot of guys like the top end and such and will design the machine to do such. I chose my exhaust, cam, piston and such to match with what i want it to do. I would say if you were looking for the best setup possible it would be a 426 or a 416 stroker lol just for a bit more info. it doesnt sound like you want to go all out though, just a nice upgrade from stock for a decent price. what you are doing will be a great addition to the 400 and not put a major dent in your wallet. I think most would agree with a budget the 416 is the way to go. I am interested to see if anyone else agrees or disagrees with that statement. it is common and pistons are cheaper than the rest so it is a win win for us. steve

[honda400ex2003]

Originally posted by CJM
Thanks again, ill look into it all.

Also, sparks key is a no no with the 416 bore right?

it should be fine. you just have to run a high enough octane. a 10:1 with a sparks key on 91 is plenty fine and will help it out a bit too. steve

[CJM]

Ok so sparks key is fine with the 416 setup like you have? Sorry but confused the way you worded it.

[honda400ex2003]

sorry just read it and yes it would be fine. ill fix it right now. I should have put that, as i read it i figured it would be confusing. you also have a pm. 91 or 93 would be fine to run a 6 degree. steve

[CJM]

Posting this here to perhaps help others with the choices:

This kit looks all inclusive, contains gaskets, piston and such. I did read tho to use honda or cometic (sp) brand gaskets cause they are better however?

http://www.denniskirk.com/jsp/product_catalog/Product.jsp?skuId=&store=Main&catId=&productId=pPK1034&leafCatId=&mmyId=

[honda400ex2003]

that would be a good kit to run. i chose to use the full cometic gaskets or i would have used that kit. I wanted to have a full set so that i had both the clutch and flywheel gaskets since they would be required when doing the cam chain and the key. you wont be saving the stock ones so you will be needing both as it looks like you will be doing both of these things at some point. lol. then just get the hot cam and a crf450 dirtbike cam chain for the hd chain to go with the hd studs and you will be set. Do you have a slip on or anything? i forgot to look at your sig. lol. that looks to be a 3 peice headgasket which is like the stock one and the cometic ones that everyone runs so it is decent too. steve

[CJM]

I currently run a lexx mxe slip on with what I believe to be stock or close to stock jetting (had the dealer tune it after the carb annoyed me for 12 hours of trying to get it right. They told me they didnt do anything but tune the carb.

Really worth it to use the cometic gaskets versus the ones in the wiseco kit? Cause that kit seems awfully tempting for the price.

Also, if heat was a real issue I could run a colder plug to help with the heat?

[honda400ex2003]

the plug doesnt actually make the engine run cooler, it just dissipates heat from the electrode cooler. I did not really give much detail since i am not really sure on it. lol. there is a really good thread from early last month that was discussing the different temp range plugs. the gaskets in the kit are nice but once you have to buy the two side cover gaskets seperate and the starter gear gasket seperate when doing the key it will be more than getting a full kit to start with. lol. steve

[honda400ex2003]

im have to get off now lol. my comp only has 10% left so it will be dead in a few minutes. tty tomorrow night. do you have msn messenger at all? I am honda400ex2003@hotmail.com if you want to add me. steve

[CJM]

Im probably not gonna do the key till later anyways.

Right now I just dont have a clue wtf is in there, cause like I said I rode 3 other 400s and they didnt have the lowend power mine does and I dont have a hotcam, its not marked except for a D on the shaft, friends clearly says "HOTCAM" on several places.

Just wanted to be sure I wasnt gonna blow it up if the key is in there.

I have aim, ill see about msn messenger.

TTYL

[honda400ex2003]

then the kit will be the way to go for sure. make sure you take the piston when you get it bored since they use the piston you have to measure. as long as you get it jetted right you shouldnt have any issues with blowing up. unless something happens during rebuild or it is not bored correctly these machines will take a ton of abuse on a new piston. lol. steve

[slightlybent47]

I agree with what Steve said but I don’t think on a 416 that the hd head studs are needed. I have a 416 with 12/1, stage 2 cam, p&p 450 carb, over sized oil tank, w/b mx4 slip on, with stock head pipe with the welds ground, and I have the stock head studs and it’s been two years on this build with at least 200 hours of hard racing on it and it still runs like a champ.
The head studs are holding up just fine, but if you want to do the hd studs it certainly wont hurt anything, but I don’t think there a must. I do run my gas half and half but that’s just cuz I like the extra throttle response I get with a hotter fuel. I’ve ran it on 93 pump and it runs just fine on that as well.

But I have to add that I change my oil and filter every 4-6 hours of run time, so that has a lot to do with how long it will last. And with the smaller oil tank I changed it every 3-4 hours.
I would go ahead and do a p&p while you have the head off, in fact if your going to all the trouble to rebuild it and if you can spend the money then I’d do the bore, cam, p&p and bump the compression all at the same time. They work best when done all together and is more caust effective as well.

Good luck

[slightlybent47]

Don’t forget to put a new cam chain in while your in there.

[CJM]

Bent I assume by P and P you mean port and polish? Its not a huge deal to me, this isnt a race machine.

I only want to bore it out cause it has to be done now due to wear and the little bit of power I gain would be nice. I am not a racer, just trail rider-heck I dont even do all kinds of jumps or anything. Just like to go fast down the trails and play around.

How hard is it to install the new cam chain?

Also anyone reading this from central NJ have any shops they would recommend to do the work?

[honda400ex2003]

it is pretty easy to do you just have to take off the clutch cover to do it along with the clutch plates and basket. I think i did a pretty good write up on it a while back although i cant remember for sure. lol. the crf450 bike chain from any year bike is a nice cheaper hd chain that works great as i mentioned before, and was also why i thought maybe you would opt for the full kit when installing that. lol. it is quite a bit wider than a ex chain and will work great with no stretching or anything. the pro x ones are decent too but are not quite as wide as the crf one is and is priced about the same at around 50 bucks for both. steve

[honda400ex2003]

this is a bit better explanation.

yeah, maybe a bit more than that if you have never taken your clutch apart. the basket needs to come off so you can change the cam chain but it is no big deal. The head needs be taken apart too to get down to the cam and the bolts holding it on. then you can drop the chain down and slide the new one down and put it together. You will have to take the tensioner off too and there is a screw inside it to compress it all the way before it is put back in. bolt it all back together and do the tensioner last when putting it back together. The tensioner needs to be in all the way when bolting it down and then once it is tight to the cylinder you can release it and it will put tension back on the chain. I would check out your guides too while you are at it. they could be worn down too. They make a tool that makes the tensioner a breeze but you can only get it with a new tensioner. a small screwdriver will work. good luck



steve

[CJM]

Probably a good idea to do the cam chain anyways while I am in there. See if you can find the right up, all I found in the service manual was totally cracking the case open :( Not just removing the side cover. Chain was very tight when I did tear it down tho.

I could opt for the full gasket kit, where would you recommend getting one?

[honda400ex2003]

dk, gt thunder, or c and d would have them. any 85, 6 or 7 mm would work fine. the write up is above, it is not the best but it was a quicky for someone doing it. steve

[CJM]

Im confident if I take my time I can accomplish this whole job.

Probably will ask a billion Q along the way but it will be all done within the next month or so.

Think Im gonna do the wiseco 87mm piston kit, cometic EST gasket set and do a CRF timing chain. Should be oh 300 bucks in parts and just need the cylinder worked then, so say 500 total-not to bad I guess. Unexpected expense but wtf you gonna do.

I say 10:1 406 and race gas depends on piston choice for compression

Local machine shops can usually bore with no problem. HD head studs while your in there I say why not?

Why get a "kit"?

Great idea it will run strong with a stage 1 cam

[slightlybent47]

Ok if you don’t want to do a full build that’s ok, you should have no issues with it with just a bore job. A 416 will still leave you with plenty of cylinder wall so you should have no problems with it. And if that’s all your doing then I wouldn’t spend the money on the hd studs. I’ve been told that the key is when you torque the head studs that you go in small increments and don’t over torque them. With just bumping it to a 416 with no other mods to go with it, is not going to do much and that’s fine if you not looking for a big increase in power.
Just don’t be scared to do the other mods, if there done right and you keep the oil clean it will still last and be a reliable machine.
With a cam and a p&p, all your doing is opening up the air flow so it can breath better, so it doesn’t take any of the reliability out of it, if that’s what your thinking.

Just an option to think about while you have it apart. And don’t worry even with all the extra mods it’s not going to rip your arms off. Might rip a hole in you wallet though!!!! Lol!!!!!

[flyboy1294]

Originally posted by CJM
Just to clarify a bit:
1. Do I want a 406 or 416 kit, which would be more reliable and do I need to use race gas with either of them?

2. What place can I send the jug out to, should I spring for heavy duty head studs? Do I need new nuts then for the studs?

3. What reliable company/place can I get a 406 or 416 kit from? I searched google but didnt come up with much.

4. I think ill spring for a hotcam stage 1, will this be a bad idea with a 406/416?

Thanks in advance, I would really appreciate the input.

CJM:
I basically agree with everything Steve told you.

1. If I were you, I would get a 416, just because it has more power potiential. I would get an 11:1 compression piston with it, and no you do not need race gas for that.

2. Head studs are nice, but not a must have. If you want to make it bullet proof, I would recommend them. CT Racing does awesome work, even though it's pricey.

3. CT Racing is also a great place to get parts for some quads. I got my gasket kit and Kibblewhites along with other parts from them. They have tons of Piston options for the 400ex.

4. If you went with a 416, I would highly recommend a Hotcam Stage 2. It gives you a much broader powerband than the Stage 1 (I have owned a Stage 1, I speak from experiance). And when you have the head out, I'd go ahead and fork out the extra $150 or so to get the port and polish. It would really help wake your quad up.

** On another note, I noticed the kit you linked to used a different type of gasket. PLEASE do yourself and favor and do not use anything besides Cometic gaskets. I have never blown a Cometic head gasket, and this is running 13:1 and now12.5 compression with significant engine work. Every gasket I have ever blown has either been stock or Namura.

[CJM]

Ok I think I got it all, I should do the following:

1. 10:1 or 11:1 piston. I read somewhere due to the nature of the headgasket design for a 400ex that since its thicker your actually losing a good bit of compression from wisecos numbers b/c its measured using an XR400 gasket which is slightly thinner. Thus a 10:1 becomes a 9:1 which is stock and an 11:1 becomes a 10:1, any truth in this? When I do do the bore, the machine shop needs the piston I will be using right?

2. As for the head studs, Its not a huge deal since GT thunder is only 100 bucks for the whole job plus shipping and should I choose to perhaps one day go to 426 or even a 440 it is worth it. Even so its added insurance I dont blow anything since apparently they hold better (as per GT Thunders site).

3. The hotcam, well whats more worth it in the end? A stage 1 is for lowend grunt, a stage 2 is more mid to topend? Obviously the 416 is gonna add slightly more grunt in itself, so is the state 2 really what I want? Remember I am not racing, so at most on trails if I can get to 4th or 5th gear thats alot and it doesnt usually happen.

4. Im gonna get the cometic gasket kit straight from thier website, the EST kit. They list it as
EST in mx/dirt and ATV applications refers to a line of 4-stroke complete and top end kits. EST mx/dirt and ATV kits contain components (such as MLS head gaskets, steel viton coated base gaskets, valve stem seals, o-rings, cam chain tensioner gaskets, and washers) required for a total rebuild. Because of the hi-tech components EST kits are more expensive than standard kits So it seems really worth the extra cost I guess.

5. Which year CRF 450 timing chain do I want? Will I need any other parts besides the gasket for the case to do this job?

6. With this whole setup can I use the stock valves and springs or should I go for something better?

Thats about it, I am gonna have to do a valve job as well so CT thunder seems like a good place maybe for that if I dont feel like doing it.

Bout it really, I guess it all hinges on how much I want to spend. I kinda wanted to keep it below 500-700 bucks tho if possible. Instead of ordering alot of it thru various vendors I found the piston kit on ebay as well as the hotcam at a good price from a reputable seller so that can save me a few bucks at least.

[bherriman]

Just to clear it up a 416 is .80 over. and on the port and polish subject- porting and or polishing your head will flow more air and thus the engine will have more power, however, any port job slightly moves the "powerband" towards the top end. It seems you like low end power for your style of riding so I would stay away from the p&p but thats just my opinion ( I like my power low to mid and have just a slight polish just to clean things up in the head I barely took any material off at all). And yes what you read about the xr 400 head gasket is true but an 11:1 wiesco only drops to about 10.6 or.7:1 not a big drop. On the valve issue stock valves will be fine just make sure you get all the carbon cleaned off them and lap them back into their seats and throw on some new valve seals. And with the mods in my sig i run 91 pump gas all day long no problems

[flyboy1294]

Originally posted by CJM
Ok I think I got it all, I should do the following:

1. 10:1 or 11:1 piston. I read somewhere due to the nature of the headgasket design for a 400ex that since its thicker your actually losing a good bit of compression from wisecos numbers b/c its measured using an XR400 gasket which is slightly thinner. Thus a 10:1 becomes a 9:1 which is stock and an 11:1 becomes a 10:1, any truth in this? When I do do the bore, the machine shop needs the piston I will be using right?

2. As for the head studs, Its not a huge deal since GT thunder is only 100 bucks for the whole job plus shipping and should I choose to perhaps one day go to 426 or even a 440 it is worth it. Even so its added insurance I dont blow anything since apparently they hold better (as per GT Thunders site).

3. The hotcam, well whats more worth it in the end? A stage 1 is for lowend grunt, a stage 2 is more mid to topend? Obviously the 416 is gonna add slightly more grunt in itself, so is the state 2 really what I want? Remember I am not racing, so at most on trails if I can get to 4th or 5th gear thats alot and it doesnt usually happen.

4. Im gonna get the cometic gasket kit straight from thier website, the EST kit. They list it as So it seems really worth the extra cost I guess.

5. Which year CRF 450 timing chain do I want? Will I need any other parts besides the gasket for the case to do this job?

6. With this whole setup can I use the stock valves and springs or should I go for something better?

Thats about it, I am gonna have to do a valve job as well so CT thunder seems like a good place maybe for that if I dont feel like doing it.

Bout it really, I guess it all hinges on how much I want to spend. I kinda wanted to keep it below 500-700 bucks tho if possible. Instead of ordering alot of it thru various vendors I found the piston kit on ebay as well as the hotcam at a good price from a reputable seller so that can save me a few bucks at least.

1. Yes, most companies do measure using an XR400 engine, so you do lose some compression when going to a 400ex engine. However, I do not know if it is as much as you sited. The machine shop is only going to care about the diameter of the piston, atleast, in my experiance.

2. Good call on the studs, they do help it be much more bulletproof. With the quality of parts you are using on this build, I would imagine that the only reason you would ever go with a bigger bore is because you decided you wanted something new, not because anything wore out. But hey, insurance is always good.

3. If I were you, I would go with the Stage 2. Yes, the Stage 1 does give you more low end, but the midrange and top stay almost the same. The Stage 2 gives minor improvements in the low and high end, with most of it's power showing around midrange. Unless you are riding crazy technical trails that 4x4s would crawl along on, I think you will be spending 'most' of your time in the midrange RPM area. Also, with a Stage 2, you have room to modify your engine in other ways (Like and exhaust, airbox, P&P, or oversized valves) and even more potential is unlocked. If you do much more over a high comp piston with the Stage 1, you don't see anymore gains.

4. Cometic all the way. It's worth every cent.

5. You want an '05 or older timing chain. They added 2 links in '06.

6. You will be just fine using the stock valves IMO. You engine should be getting plenty of air just being a 416. Oversize is for down the road when you go bigger.

CT does awesome work, they just charge for it lol.

[CJM]

Thanks very much everyone, Ill getting stuff like its xmas in the next few weeks :)

I think based on everyones opinion Ill do a stage 2 cam, studs for the added insurance (hey ya never know I might bump to 426 one day), cometic gaskets, CRF chain, valves lapped and whatever else.

Ill probably be asking again how to get certain things done after I get all the parts so thanks in advance again!

[CJM]

Dropped the gun and bought the following:

Wiseco 11:1 .80, 87mm (416) piston
Cometic EST gasket set
Hotcams stage 2

Gonna call/email GT Thunder for the HD studs and bore and order the CRF timing chain in the next few days.

Its funny how in the quad world people use Cometic without problems but in the auto world there are tons that have blown Cometic left and right lol

[honda400ex2003]

Originally posted by CJM
Dropped the gun and bought the following:

Wiseco 11:1 .80, 87mm (416) piston
Cometic EST gasket set
Hotcams stage 2

Gonna call/email GT Thunder for the HD studs and bore and order the CRF timing chain in the next few days.

NICE!!!! :devil: steve

[CJM]

One last quick Q

What side crankcase cover do I need? The parts fiche online Im using just has an option for "crankcase" and 1 gasket that looks like it goes inbetween the cases.

There is also an option for a case cover too..

Which ones do I need?

[honda400ex2003]

to change the cam chain it is the clutch side gasket. the center one is not needed which i guess would be the crank case gasket. I hope that helps. steve

[CJM]

Thanks Steve. Now the fun begins!

[honda00]

Is it alright if I paint the rims black or what should i do to it? What would look the best. If you have done anything like this please tell me. I need help!

[CJM]

Originally posted by honda00
Is it alright if I paint the rims black or what should i do to it? What would look the best. If you have done anything like this please tell me. I need help!

I think you got the wrong thread my friend...

[honda400ex2003]

LOL i think so too. lol anyway he could powder coat them maybe. Have a fun time doing the machine. take your time, enjoy it and learn as you go. it will be very satifying to get it all done yourself and have it run great once you get it dialed in. steve

[flyboy1294]

Awesome, it's going to be a really nice build when you're done.

[CJM]

Im really hoping so, cause its a heck of alot of cash ya know?

[honda400ex2003]

pocket change my man, pocket change. lol :D :cool: steve

[flyboy1294]

Originally posted by CJM
Im really hoping so, cause its a heck of alot of cash ya know?

You're using quality parts and having good work done. If you have never ridden a modified 400ex I think you will be amazed.

Did you have a pipe or filter or anything on it before you started this build?

[CJM]

I had a pipe, lexx mxe slip on. Before that the previous owner put on a duncan racing full exhaust, shame they DRILLED into the muffler to mount the strap to it and ruined the muffler.

I am unsure if I have a sparks key as well, but it did have much better power than an 05 and an 07 that were stock.

[flyboy1294]

Originally posted by CJM
I had a pipe, lexx mxe slip on. Before that the previous owner put on a duncan racing full exhaust, shame they DRILLED into the muffler to mount the strap to it and ruined the muffler.

I am unsure if I have a sparks key as well, but it did have much better power than an 05 and an 07 that were stock.

You'll still be amazed. Let us know when you get it all together :macho

[CJM]

Right now I am also trying to come up with ways to make the damn exhaust stay on. It has a mid pipe that uses a collar and it keeps slipping off cause it says to use hi temp silicone to hold it on..very aggravating..

Was thinking about using these small allen head bolts and tapping the dang thing thru so i can bolt it together.

That or trying to make cuts and use a muffler clamp..

[CJM]

Small update:

-Sent my cylinder to GT thunder for a 416 bore out and the HD stud kit, not bad for 200 bucks imho.

-Removed clutch and clutch basket after getting a tusk clutch holder tool. I am sure I could have fabbed one up but it also holds gears so its worth the 15 bucks. Worked like a charm and the chain is on there. Need to replace one of the guides tho, friend just did his and its 70 bucks :(

Now I just wait and then I get to tune it..which should be fun.

[flyboy1294]

Originally posted by CJM
Small update:

-Sent my cylinder to GT thunder for a 416 bore out and the HD stud kit, not bad for 200 bucks imho.

-Removed clutch and clutch basket after getting a tusk clutch holder tool. I am sure I could have fabbed one up but it also holds gears so its worth the 15 bucks. Worked like a charm and the chain is on there. Need to replace one of the guides tho, friend just did his and its 70 bucks :(

Now I just wait and then I get to tune it..which should be fun.

Chain guides are $70? Where do you even find them, I've looked around and had no luck. :confused:

[CJM]

Yea the plastic guides and whatnot.

Bikebandit, mr cycle and servicehonda had them all.

Heres the info with part #'s:
PRODUCT INFORMATION:
Mfg Product Number: 14511-KCY-670
Description: TENSIONER, CAM CHAIN for 2000 HONDA TRX400EX
Order Quantity: 1
Unit Price: $54.25
Total Cost: $54.25

Mfg Product Number: 14620-KCY-670
Description: GUIDE, CAM CHAIN for 2000 HONDA TRX400EX
Order Quantity: 1
Unit Price: $25.33
Total Cost: $25.33

[flyboy1294]

Thanks, I'll look into it.

[CJM]

No problem :)

[CJM]

Update:

Took me 4 hours of work but its all back together and will run with some throttle and the choke fully on.

Gonna take it to be tuned and let them dyno it.