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View Full Version : My new Project, 2000 lt80 PLEASE help!!!



marcop300
04-13-2010, 06:58 PM
I was on craigslist to buy ONE 4 wheeler. So I goto hi house and look at the Raptor 80, that ran perfect and that is what i wanted. So then he showed me a Pw50 (needs just a little work), I made sure the PW had a spark, because it does not need a battery to turn over..etc. anyway. I like that too. So then he showed me a LT80, it did not turn over, I even had a extra battery with me (it did not have a pull start). I wanted sooo bad for it just to show me a spark. It did not. Anyway.. I bought all 3. yes, wife did not like that. I know many of you have done the same thing. lol.

so I fix up the PW50, and the Rap 80 (new sparkpulgs, oil, carb rebuilds, gas..etc) they all work PERFECT.

Now for my Story. So I start troubling shooting the LT. Find out that I needed a start. Man was that hard with out the manual. anyway got it off then hooked it up to 12V.. Nothing. So then I order one. it came in and then i tested it with 12V.. it worked (the starter), then put it in the LT80, then NOTHING.. No spark (turns over, but no spark). So then I bought a PDF Service manual. Let the fun began. I tested most of all the Electronics (with ohm meter and volt meter). I was sure all of it worked. So then came the Stator test. I used a ohm meter and it was suppose to read 170 ohms +- 20%, mine was 24.

After a few days, I started just looking on the Internet for parts. Lets just say I went back to craigslist, and found this GREAT DEAL on a newer LT80. Yeah, I sure did not need it. But it was CLEAN and one owner and it was 3 yrs newer then the 2000 LT80 (that I’m working on). Anyway.. lets just say I came home with it (yeah, wife was not happen AGAIN). I sure wish it was the same color, she would have NEVER known..lol yeah, I’m bad. . So, then I put most of the electronics parts from the older 2000 lt80 onto the 2003 lt80 (CDI,COIL, FUSE, RELAYS..ETC you know). Then the newer LT80 started right up. Then I put all the 2003 parts onto the older Lt80..etc and it DID NOT spark at all…. Yeah. I was MAD. Lol. Swapped all arts EXCEPT the Stator/Mag. So then I KNEW it was the stator that is causing my no spark. So, I order a new one and a new Magneto.

Now taking off that Mag was not fun. I bough a cheap $14 puller remover and it came off ( I think it was luck).

Now the FUN part. After taking off the Stator. I see the seal and ball bearing on crank??? Looks like it needs to be replaced. Has many small metal parts near the seal, and the bearing looks like it is missing some balls?? I THINK. The bearings don’t go all around the ring. Maybe missing 5 or so (I did not count).

My questions are;

Do I start parting out the LT80 and selling it. Which I don’t want to.
That would mean the LT80 won and I lost a faxing it.

Do, I order a new bearing????
Do I have to crack the case to replace it???

Or should I just start rebuilding it from ground up? Top end looks good, no marks ( I have not done a compression test) but looks real good.

What are some good sites to buy parts for this LT80, like (full card rebuild kits, petcock value, bearings, seals, gaskets..etc

in these pics does it look like the stator is backwards??? it was on there. I just took it off)

I saw that I should order some KAW parts (Bearing??? Seal) maybe they are better than the org 2000 LT80.

I sure would like to LEARN A LOT more about these LT80. They look like a real popular atv that everyone fixes up..etc that is why I want to give up now.

Can someone help me, stear me in the right direction so that I don’t have to put $1K into this fun project. I just want to fix it, so that I can have a EXTRA lt80 to ride..etc.

I sure with some of you folks lived in Dallas. I would love to learn from the PROs. I hope to get this done now on this website.


Thanks everyone for reading this and helping me out. I like working on projects and looks like I got one now.

Also, any tips on a adjusting the carbs? The new one I did needs a tune up. Also looks like these things have Rev on them. They sure are SLOW… :O)

here are some pics of my project .

http://www.kodakgallery.com/gallery/creativeapps/slideShow/Main.jsp?token=587620153407%3A2071767981&sourceId=533754321803&cm_mmc=eMail-_-Share-_-Photos-_-Sharee

xcracer416
04-13-2010, 07:28 PM
ok dude your a godsend to me. you have the OHM specs for the ignition system. If you dont mind can you post them up for me? the coil, mag/condenser coil?

also looking at your pictures i would say you have a crank bearing failure on your hands. seeing that much metal on the seal side makes me wonder what the crankcase looks like. If it was me i would split it open, do a topend rebuild/refresh and clean everything and replace both crank bearings, possibly crank if it needs it.

you might can get a hold to LT80 on here i think he can hook you up on that.

but mine quit firing the other night and ive been needing the specs if you can hook me up

oh yeah ive been looking at bikebandit.com for parts

LT80
04-14-2010, 07:37 AM
Welcome to the forums.:)
Well, where do I start..LOL
Ok 1st,
www.motorsportssupercenter.com For parts. Last I checked, about 25% less that ripoffbandit. They rival the prices that I get.
You will need to order new bearings/seals/gaskets (about 50 bucks).
Yes, you will need to split the cases. This is best left to someone that's done it before. But yes, basically a ground up rebuild.
Just looked at pic...The seal is gone!! That's weird! Someone was into it IMO. The bearing is scrap. You need the above.
The stator is in corect. You can tell by looking at the hole at the 3 o'clock position. Ther you will see a line stamped in the stator and the cases. that's the timing mark. Align those 2 marks when installing.
As far as the piston, do a comp test. Below 100, freshen it up (new bore/piston).
FYI: Kaw a Zuki parts are the same.
FYI: I've never bought a carb rebuild kit. I doubt you need one.
Carb adjustment. Idle adjustment only. No air screw's or the like to make it hard.
Hope that helps.:)

marcop300
04-14-2010, 11:34 AM
Thank you Both.

xcracer416, LT80

I'm going to order parts now. I guess, I better free some space in the garage. looks like I will be working on this for awhile. Also I will need to buy the wife a new gift of some kind. :O)

LT80
04-15-2010, 07:40 AM
The stator should read about 185 ohms

airmobile101
04-15-2010, 03:44 PM
Good stuff, once opon a time, I had a Z400, DVX400, Raptor 350, KFX50, and a Xtreme 50cc all in the garage. It was too much, wife was pissed since she couldn't park the car in the garage, lol. Now I'm down to a 450R and the KFX50/90. Needless to say, I know that look you get from your wife!:D

LT80
04-16-2010, 09:21 AM
Wives....So over-rated...:p

929rog
04-16-2010, 11:18 AM
Slitting the cases is really not that big of a deal, I just did one. Take your time, mark parts, take pictures, and get after it. In two nights I took a complete bike, changed the crank, and it was a runner....

marcop300
04-25-2010, 06:13 AM
pulling the motor was EASY. Case is cracked. Head looks like there is a little surface scratches in the head.

Can I get someone to bore it out? who? do I send it off or someone local? Where do I look/take it? (i live in Dallas,TX) or do i look on ebay and buy one that has a new sleeve in it? I have no idea on how much they cost.

Then after bore do they tell me what size Piston to put in it?

now that I have the crack out, do I replace all bearings? even the ones under the piston/on the crank? Looks like I will need a piston/rings.

what is the best was to sand/buff the crank? or do i take it some where? There is not marks on the cranks. still smooth.

The case on the right side has little makes in it from the bearing the broke. not really bad, do I buff it or just leave it?

when I get the bearings in for the rt/lt side of the crank. is there any easy way to put them back? or anything I need to watch? i bet it will not be easy putting them back in. I will lube them up before i do.

thanks again for everyones help on this. when I find time (between work, riding, 3 kids, honey do's and wife), I sure do like working on these atv. i bet once (OR IF) i get this one working, I buy more just to fix up.... ok, NOT. i would have to get a new wife. and that won't happen.. lol thanks everyone.

http://www.kodakgallery.com/gallery/creativeapps/slideShow/Main.jsp?albumId=902060763407

the white stuff is a oil/lube that I spray on. also, the piston is broken, becuase I used a hammer handel UNDER the piston, while I was getting the left side nut off. lets just say.. DON'T do that again :O), I should have taken that off when the mag was still on. oops.

xcracer416
04-25-2010, 08:12 AM
i would contact LT80. he can fix you up with all your needs. he is the expert on lt80 quads. you bore the cylinder to what size piston it needs then hone. the piston should be purchased at the time of bore job. if your wrist pin bearing is bad it will wear out the connecting rod, which means the connecting rod needs replaced usually. you get a new wrist pin with a new piston.

LT80
04-25-2010, 08:37 AM
I just don't know where to start.
Actually, I think your in over your head.
Your questions point me toward thinking that you need to have someone do the bottom end for you.

Throw it all in a box and send it to me. :D

marcop300
04-25-2010, 08:49 AM
So, no need to do anything to the crank? or the case?

LT80
04-25-2010, 08:58 AM
I can only imagine that the crank is fine. As far as the case, no idea...the pics won't load. :(
Post pics in here please.

marcop300
04-25-2010, 09:24 AM
in over my head.. NO WAY.. Not until, that atv is running and it is in about 8 feet of water... then it will be over my head.. lol. I will not give up. I will not have this atv get the best of me.

http://www.kodakgallery.com/gallery/creativeapps/slideShow/Main.jsp?token=212060763407%3A151526614&sourceId=533754321803&cm_mmc=eMail-_-Share-_-Photos-_-Sharee


smaller link


http://tinyurl.com/atvcrank



see if this works

I just need a little direction. on the bore, and crank case. the bearings i will get them in there some how when I order them. also, just want a few pointers.

thanks again for your help on here.

LT80
04-25-2010, 10:04 AM
pic 3974..looks like a piece may be broke.
The crank is OK.


Good luck on your endevour.:)

marcop300
05-08-2010, 03:16 PM
ok, I'm done. i did it. I'm soooo happy it all works. crazy!!! my 1st ever rebuild, from bottom up. Some things where hard, but it is all back and running.

now I'm ready to buy some more of these models and ix them up. They are easy to work on now.

Thanks, this site did help. Now I just need to order some more parts like

FT/RR Brake pads. (any type better than others)


GAS PetCock Value (these cost a lot for a gas value.) anyone have any good ideas on some other parts that will work just as good or the same?

can someone point me to some good websites for these parts? thanks.

I will post pic later, on a job well done ( i took HIGH res pic of every step...lol ).

posted pics.. yeah, I took more that what I'm showing.

http://www.kodakgallery.com/gallery/creativeapps/slideShow/Main.jsp?token=287647683407%3A1028387167&sourceId=533754321803&cm_mmc=eMail-_-Share-_-Photos-_-Sharee

I'm glad I did not give up, it was FUN!!

MP

f150dan
05-15-2010, 10:37 PM
Speaking of the fuel petcock, the factory vaccum operated petcock on my 01 Lt80 started leaking down and filling the cylinder with fuel so I replaced it with a a normal style (on,off,res) petcock from a Lt160. It worked great for a while and I liked the results since it was a direct replacement but it was kindof a hassle to have to turn it off every time I shut the bike off and it eventually started leaking too. Im gonna try to rebuild the stock one or just buy a new one that is vaccum operated and will shut the fuel off for you every time you shut the bike off.

LT80
05-16-2010, 05:31 AM
All that cuz you don't want to get a 4 dollar on/off valve at the autozone.
Most every other machine made you have to turn the fuel off, or at least you should.:)

f150dan
05-16-2010, 12:00 PM
My z400 has the same vaccum operated style as the 80 but actually works. My ole quadracer has the on/off style but I never have to turn it off unless I am pulling the tank or disconnecting the fuel line for some reason.

It wouldn't be a problem for me to turn the fuel off every time, but it would be hard to get my step son and nephew to do that also. I just want then to be able to go to t and fire it up or be able to shut it off without having to worry about it flooding itself if it sets there too long

LT80
05-17-2010, 06:44 AM
It's simple..tell them::
no shuty the fuel, no ridy. :D :D