woods prep

[emullen]

I have looked at several old posts about woods bikes but want to create a new thread with some thoughts on bike prep to make the bike bullet proof for the race. Tricks and tips. Also perhaps some additional performance/specs.

Key thing is waterproofing- what are you guys doing to the airbox and electric systems? specifically on no link and cr link that do not have the stock airbox and breather.

Chain/ sprocket- o ring vs non o ring 520 vs 530?

nerfs vs. pegs

flex bars vs std

what about gas consumption and motor size. I am running a 310 npv and come close to running out of gas (4gal) and am sure that I eventually will. I have a 38 a/s and have thought about putting on a 36 to save gas

width of front and rear? and thoughts on LT vs ST
how about 4/1 vs 3/2 all being equal ( say stock a arms with 3/2 or +1 with 4/1 to give same width) any benifit to running one size vs the other- any wheel protection and/or turning/ stability benefits

rim and tire size and tire brand and model

I think this may be a good start as there are many directions to go here- perhaps too many topics in one post. I am just looking for good proven xc setup feedback and would like to start a new updated thread.

if you could please explain the why and benefits to your suggestions it would be helpful

thanks in advance

[LONG-ROD]

I have a 265.. and i can go way longer then my bro on his 310. and mine is every bit as fast.. I am 46" all round. +2 with 3/2 off set. I also run full skids front to rear. I am also +1 up front which if it is muddy doesn't turn the best.

[muddymess]

I only got my R and started racing last year but I'll throw in my 2 cents.

I actually ran the entire season with just an old rag over the airbox held in place with the stock metal clips. I never really had any issues with it but for sound of mind ill be getting a lid for this year.

For the electrical connections I just hit them all with dielectric grease to keep water off them.

I like nerf bars for the simple fact hitting them off a tree hurts less both physically and financially then hitting them with the back tire.

I actually had to stop and get filled up on gas even with the motor being completely stock. This was with the stock tank too though. More then likely you will need a good friend who will stand beside the track holding a gas can.

For tires I ran cut razrs in the back and I had no problems getting traction. We have all types of terrain here and never had any issues with them. For rims I'd say just make sure there beadlocks.

Things I learned from last year that I'm working on this year with my R...
Suspension, suspension, maintenance, and suspension.

Last year wasn't just my first time racing the R it was the first time I rode any quad for over 14 years and even I was able to place 3rd overall in the first year racer class on my stock R so just keep the throttle pinned and you will notice poeple don't stay in front of you for too long.

PS. get some ear plugs. once you start hanging out with a bunch of 4 poke riders you'll know why.

[MossboysRacing]

For my electrical system, well I barely run one. Only the CDI and coil are plugged in for me. For the rest of the connections, i use di-electric grease on them, then tape them up tight with black electrical tape. I still the airbox intake all the way up to the radiator (stock) and use a ehs racing lid. http://www.ehsracing.com/

I like Nerf bars for 2 reasons. 1, they have saved my boots plenty of times when things get rough and you start bounging around. 2, In tight courses, you can turn sharper, and pivot around on the outside of the nerfbar against a tree. Here in MO, the courses get cut tight!

Handle bars are personel preference. I dont think Flex bars are needed if you have a anti-vibe stem and fat bars. I dont get arm pump, BUT every rider is different and has an opinion.

I run a 4gal IMS and have an ESR 310 w/38mm A/S. I can go 1.5 hours easy. IF i was to run the GNCC's which are 2 hours, i would probably stop for a some gas.

last year i ran +1 ST Herrmann arms with some Re-valved/resprung 450r stockers, and for the woods they handled great, But i did bottom them on mild MX. This year im running +1 LT Housers with Axis and am extemely happy. with the longer stroke of the shock, i can run softer springs and valving w/o harsh bottoming.

For sheer durability, I use a DID 520 X-ring. its expensive, but lasts a long time.

when i ran srtock 400ex arms, i used 3-2 wheels to make a little wider, now I run 4-1 front rims to help keep it narrow.Handling wise, its like MX. With the tires being closer to the ball joints, you get Less bump steer. For our tracks, it helps being 47" or less too.

Sorry for the huge reply, hope this helps. Ill try and dig up a current pic of my bike to post

[emullen]

thanks, that was very helpful and by no means too long. That is the kind of info that I am looking for. I have an EHS lid with a pluged box. Got soaked -wet weekend with water crossings. Not sure if it was the filter or electric system or both.
The filter was wet and inside the box was too so I was thinking of trying to better seal them both. The top of the filter was wet so I am sure it came throught the EHS lid but also wondering if it came up through the bottom a bit as the air box drain vent was missing. The bike bogged terribly. then the chain broke!!!!- DNF