rod supposed to have side to side play?

[rodelikestole]

just bought a 86' got it for cheap cause its sounds like its ready to blow. i expected the inside to look worse than it is. only things that raised my brow were piston looks like it pokes out of jug on TDC. don't know if its supposed to and the rod will slide back and forth on the crank about 1/4 or so. i'm not sure thats right either.

[axellmusic19]

My crank does the same thing...assuming you mean horizontal plane movement not up and down play? I don't think that is really a factory since the piston doesn't have significant force in that direction? I've never known of it being a bad thing but I could be wrong.

[rodelikestole]

yep just some sideways movement and from what i found so far thats normal. going to clean up jug ang put .40 over in it if the bottom looks as good as the top. hopefully the noise will be gone

[LTandRaptorider]

yes, some sideways movement is normal. Up and down is bad. The noise you're hearing, like a rattling noise? Probably piston slap, boring to next size or 2 would be needed. If it's still stock bore, go .020 over. Get the piston first, take it to the shop with your cylinder.

[rodelikestole]

.40 over is what they say the next size will be. would i be doing more harm than good if i round off the edges of the intake/exaust and polish a bit before i have it upsized? also its got a stock carb, it works but would a diffrent one open it up some more? it also already broke the ear and i can't put on a case saver is the chain going to fall out or really lash the motor next time?

[jerkin]

Chain popped a hole in my 250 when it came off, won't ride without a case saver now. It is a pita! My guy couldn't weld it without splitting the cases to clean the inside and he's good, builds rail car chassis' for a living. You can fix the case saver mount, just have a piece of round stock welded on there and when you get the case saver use the holes in it as a template for where to drill and tap the hole.

[rodelikestole]

grand total came to 250 from the shop and i goofed the bore size its gonna have one bore left after this and some new reeds while it's apart. probably have the motor reassembled next week then on to the rest of the bike. thanks by the way guys for replying it's been spot on advice and swift replies. if i got a parts wish list should i start another thread or post it on this one? i was reading the trx forum and them guys have tried alot neat tricks like using ds 650 arms, ford tie rod ends as upper/lower ball joints and, alot of 450r swapping going on anybody with LTs try any updates like this? mine's coming most of the way apart i could measure whatever is needed but i don't think '86 will be the best baseline LT.

[LTandRaptorider]

Guess I'm a lil late for your reply to my post! :p But anyway, you want to chamfer the intake, exhaust and transfer ports AFTER getting the cylinder bored. On the carb, if you don't having any porting done, just over-size bore the stock 34mm Mikuni is probably good enough. The most is a 36mm. I have lots of work done to mine, so I put a Keihin 38mm Airstryker on mine.

I'd start another thread for parts you need. And of course keep us updated on your LT's progress! :cool:

[rodelikestole]

alright, will do on cylinder head. i'l prolly just leave the carb alone i'm getting told the same thing here. i seen yours in the picture thread LT, thats a clean machine! my frame is real close in color to urs but plastics are black with lookalike carbon fiber hood on mine. the plastics aren't broke so they're staying. frame looks horrible upclose so i want to go pewter or gun metal grey something like that on the frame/swinger with white a-arms/grille/hubs maybe stem too.


i read it once i submitted i guess i couldh've said i'm going to raider it lol.