whats a fair price?

[woodsracer144]

ok so i know a guy with a Shee for sale, i pretty much needs the motor rebuilt, FMF pipes, its one of the late 80's or early 90's... i know they had a J arm chassis but i was hopen it wasnt one of them... the motor had the top end off of it, so what would a fair price be? i havnt looked at it so im not sure, its been sitting a year or so now....

400 a fair deal?

[400exrider69]

400 would be a steal

my neighbor bought one that was very very low on compression all stock 97 for 750 and replaced crank bearings and top end and a bunch of bearings in it so he eneded up having like 2000 grand in it but was a nice quad for stock

this was only 6 months ago he bought the 97

[woodsracer144]

holy man, i just thought i would get it and make kind of a outlaw chassis with it... or else make a TT bike out of it but i already have a zuki that i want to make a tt bike and im working on a honda big bore 250r right now also.. huh... im gonna have to see what he would take.... how much are pistons for these? like 300 for the pair? or what?

[400exrider69]

i just checked ebay wiseco pro lite .40 over complete top end rebuild 200

you can mount yfz shocks on a banshee pretty easily

[woodsracer144]

so assume that the cranks are bad how are those? how much are rebuilds? how much would it take to do a full rebuild... not in the bottom end just the crank cyl pistons and gaskets? 600?

$400 is a steal. I paid $500 for mine which had bad crank bearings and a blown top end.

There's nothing wrong with J-arm bikes. I would never convert mine to A-arm. The J's actually handle better then the A's. It's less sprung weight and they turn sharper. They won't "break" like everyone says they will.
Plus the J-arm frames are supposed to be about 14lbs lighter total then the newer ones.

If you don't mind buying used and don't plan on going nuts, a good condition stock crank you can pick up for about $125. But if you want to do it the right way, you should get a Hotrods trued and welded crank for around $300-$325. You can get them in that price range on ebay auctions every once and a while.

I went to Passion Racing for my top end rebuild. He only charged $245 for everything. That includes the bore & hone, port chamfering, complete top end kit (with wiseco pistons), and all gaskets. I did a bunch of research and he had the best price.
http://www.passionracingengines.com/Services.html

He did a real good job, the tolerances were perfect, and he polishes the gasket surfaces, cleans the carbon out of the exhaust ports, and washed the cylinders. I highly recommend him.

So a stock crank + Passion top end= $370

Hotrods + Passion top end= $570

[woodsracer144]

dang it! i think im gonna have to by that thing now... and i really dont need it, i already have a Lt project and 250r big bore going on..... why do you have to find deals all at the same time...

[dave5.0]

Where's it at, I'll go buy it. I could use the stuff.

[2001warriorman]

Kevin from Herrjugs racing has a whole kit. Boring porting honing pistons gaskets and porting for 300. Or ken kimbler has pistons and gaskets for like 130 or something hes doing my banshee.

Bansheeboyz.com

http://herrjugsracing.com/

those are two shops I can think of both are nice guys. I picked ken because he gave me a deal I couldnt turn down and hed already sold me a few things and just seemed like he could build my banshee how I wanted it.

Originally posted by 2001warriorman
Kevin from Herrjugs racing has a whole kit. Boring porting honing pistons gaskets and porting for 300. Or ken kimbler has pistons and gaskets for like 130 or something hes doing my banshee.

Bansheeboyz.com

http://herrjugsracing.com/

those are two shops I can think of both are nice guys. I picked ken because he gave me a deal I couldnt turn down and hed already sold me a few things and just seemed like he could build my banshee how I wanted it.

That $300 doesn't include porting. That's the price for just the top end rebuild, if you were to add it on top of a port job. HJR's porting alone is 300. He has the best price and quality porting, but as far as top end rebuilds go Passion still beats his price. (245 vs 300)

[woodsracer144]

well im gettin it for 450... i dont know when though.. its white and black or white and red... its like a 95 ish...

im not getting it till the spring though cause of all the snow we have here...

[2001warriorman]

Actually it does include the price of porting with the top end heres an exact quote from his site

Full Banshee rebuild with any port job $300.00
Includes pistons, rings, cir clips, wrist pins, top end gasket kit, bore and hone of your cylinders. If doing a port
job it is the best time to rebuild the top end. This ensures proper port durations with the new pistons and bore.

Its on his site under porting & motor packages.

[2001warriorman]

You're getting a good deal I bought mine for 500 and it was a 89. Worn down tires, the clutch didnt last me to long, the bearings were starting to go, and plastics were kinda beat up, the topend didn't last me. All in all you you wont have as much wrapped up in yours as I do in mine I imagine. Id just throw in a bore job and pistons and if you wanna get the fun factor up porting. Make sure you get boost ports they make you feel even cooler :devil:

[woodsracer144]

who makes the best pipes for these... i look at fmf's as a lower level pipe... it needs atop end has full fmf's im sure other wise its a clean quad...

[2001warriorman]

Depends what you mean by best pipe what type of power band are you wanting? An all over or or one more or less for the top or for the bottem end? What type of riding do you do?

[woodsracer144]

woods, but it would be a trail quad at the start and mabie a TT / ice one at the end...

Originally posted by 2001warriorman
Actually it does include the price of porting with the top end heres an exact quote from his site

Full Banshee rebuild with any port job $300.00
Includes pistons, rings, cir clips, wrist pins, top end gasket kit, bore and hone of your cylinders. If doing a port
job it is the best time to rebuild the top end. This ensures proper port durations with the new pistons and bore.

Its on his site under porting & motor packages.

I know thats what it says. He's saying that if you get porting, that the complete top end is only $300 on top of the port job. Email him and ask him, if you don't believe me.

No builder in their right mind would have a complete top end rebuild AND porting for just the price of porting.

Woodsracer, if you're setting it up for woods, keep the FMF's. They're really good pipes no matter what the haters say. I have DMC's, and my dad has fatties. Although mine is faster, his bike has TONS of low-mid range. Makes for a sick trail/play powerband. It's always on the pipe. Great woods pipe and not obnoxiously loud.

The only other pipe I recommend is Paul Turner Mids. But I would keep the fatties to be honest. Very broad range.

[2001warriorman]

ok well to me your best choices sound like toomey t5s or dmc 916/alien (aliens sound sick to me) Both are more or less an all around pipe and both scream on the topend Id say be different and get dmcs from what I hear they have decent bottem and pull like a freight train in the mid/top. Or if you want some real hp you can consider power pro inframes. They are the most all around inframe drag pipe you can find they come on earlier then any other and pull longer then shear which used to be the longest pulling pipe made as far as inframes went. If you fan the clutch a little or just learn to ride it a little different those would give you the most power/topend power for tt/ice racing in the end.

The best thing I can tell you is get any of the 3 pipes id say the DMCS they seem the best for you unless you want the inframes then get a good filter unless its realy muddy run it without the lid with a pro flow adapter (easy 3-5hp) and I know where you can get drag ported reed cages which are just as good as VF3s for less money but they work best with dual stage reeds. If you want even more after that you can always get porting for wherever your lacking and an adjustable timing plate best mod for 50 bucks you can buy! Another thing ill recomend is a cool head with domes so you can run 93 octane. The bumped up compression will add some bottem end and keep it cooled down which will make it last alot longer.

And for ice racing/TT I recommend DMC's or Toomey's.

CPI/Shearer in frames if you have the money

Originally posted by 2001warriorman
ok well to me your best choices sound like toomey t5s or dmc 916/alien (aliens sound sick to me) Both are more or less an all around pipe and both scream on the topend Id say be different and get dmcs from what I hear they have decent bottem and pull like a freight train in the mid/top. Or if you want some real hp you can consider power pro inframes. They are the most all around inframe drag pipe you can find they come on earlier then any other and pull longer then shear which used to be the longest pulling pipe made as far as inframes went. If you fan the clutch a little or just learn to ride it a little different those would give you the most power/topend power for tt/ice racing in the end.

The best thing I can tell you is get any of the 3 pipes id say the DMCS they seem the best for you unless you want the inframes then get a good filter unless its realy muddy run it without the lid with a pro flow adapter (easy 3-5hp) and I know where you can get drag ported reed cages which are just as good as VF3s for less money but they work best with dual stage reeds. If you want even more after that you can always get porting for wherever your lacking and an adjustable timing plate best mod for 50 bucks you can buy! Another thing ill recomend is a cool head with domes so you can run 93 octane. The bumped up compression will add some bottem end and keep it cooled down which will make it last alot longer.

What?? Toomey's and DMC's are horrible for woods. The DMC's have almost no bottom whatsoever and start to come on in the mid-range. They're all mid-top. My bike sucks in the tight trails with these pipes but I keep them anyway because I love the top end.

T5's are the same way. Almost no bottom and more of a screamer.

Fatty's are much better trail pipes then the both of them. And I actually have two of the three mentioned in my household.

[2001warriorman]

I run fattys as well and they arent a exact bottem end pipe either theyre more of a midrange pipe with a little top and a little bottem. T5s are a better all around pipe and pull better on top I have noe experience with DMCs thats just from what I hear. dmcs may come on just a little later but not by much and the mid top makes up for it for sure. Gearing will make it much easier to stay on the pipe. Notice I mentioned the filter,reeds, and cool head or you could also mill the head. Those 3 alone will give it more bottem end grunt to give you some bottem end banshees werent meant to crawl and tourque around. Also short silencers will give you more bottem end as well.

Originally posted by 2001warriorman
I run fattys as well and they arent a exact bottem end pipe either theyre more of a midrange pipe with a little top and a little bottem. T5s are a better all around pipe and pull better on top I have noe experience with DMCs thats just from what I hear. dmcs may come on just a little later but not by much and the mid top makes up for it for sure. Gearing will make it much easier to stay on the pipe. Notice I mentioned the filter,reeds, and cool head or you could also mill the head. Those 3 alone will give it more bottem end grunt to give you some bottem end banshees werent meant to crawl and tourque around. Also short silencers will give you more bottem end as well.

Do you have stock gearing?

My dads has a 12 tooth from sprocket along with the fatty's, and the things a blast in the trails! It never lugs and just rips around. Awesome woods pipe and the mid-range comes on real early.

Toomey's on the other hand, I never like. I think they sound like crap. Power-wise, they suck down low, and don't really start till the top end. More of a drag/oval track pipe imo.

DMC's sign on in the middle of the mid-range, but TRUST ME, it may not be that much higher then the fatties, but there's a big difference. I'm geared lower also and the DMC's just aren't nearly as fun in the trails. I have to clutch the **** out of it, and wring it's neck to go fast.

DMC and Toomey= wide open riding
Trails- Fatty's, PT's, and Pro Circuts

[woodsracer144]

well heres a little about me, all i've ever rode is 2-strokes my first quad was a 01 blaster and i got it for 400 bucks and got it rebuilt for 280ish... so i had about a 700 dollar blaster, i had that for 2 years and i rode the piss out of it, i went through chassis and the damb thing never blew up! i ran all kinds of **** in that thing, from ****ty oil to ****ty gas, i was a poor 14 year old... i put some odd mods like nerfs and stuff like that on it but other wise it was stock aside the bore job... then i got a 250r, it was a TT quad and i was more a woods mx guy at that time, i lost a ring and sold it and found out later on that i had a piston for it in another box, after that i got a 450r and then a hybred, i hated the 450r like no tomorrow, in the woods i can lug my 250r more then i could that POS... i traded it on a yzf hybred, the guy did a hack job but he kicked in some money for my 450r and i hated it soo much i didnt really care, that yzf was a really strong motor, thing pulled like no tomorrow but the guy did such a hack job on that i sold it, i had a 250x and another 250r(the prp i have now) that prp was Ben bettis old Mx quad and that thing just ripped! sadly i cracked aright case last year and i havent rode it sence, i picked up a good deal on a LT 250r that i want to make a hybred with a Zilla motor and make that a TT ice quad some day but right now im just going to get that 250 motor running right( missin awasher for the trans)

I dont ring its neck when i ride, its like a mid rpm so if i need the power i have it right away and dont have to grab another gear.

the banshee is mostly going to be a play quad, im just going to get it going first then start to mod it but as every thing i own some of the first things i'll put on it is shocks a-arms and a few other things like that...

[2001warriorman]

I was 15 41 on my last shee before it nuked with the intakes opened a little and the transfers opened a little and all of the ports polished. mine came on decently around 1/4 good in the mid good 3/4 decent top end no over rev.

for trails -PT mids are bad *** I want a set of hi revs still. PC plantnums are supposed to make insane tourque/bottem end for trailing but seem like just more of a trail bike pipe imo theres alot better pipes for all around riding.

For a little of everything I say t5s or dmcs and just clutch it a little or change your gearing up.

For tt- CPI's come on sooner then shears but shear signs off later Power pros are the best of the 3 inframes most peak widest power band.

2 into 1 pipes just suck as do 2 into 1 carbs imo.

Something that hasnt been mentioned and not many people run but you can get an LRD adjustable pipe and adjust it right to where you want it.

Since your already getting a topend Id get the whole topend/porting kit from HJR, passion, and bansheeboyz (banshee boyz is my personal choice hes doing a trail port with boost ports to give it more topend as well) If you got a trail port with lets say t5s or more of an upper power band pipe youd have all over power. Im not sure about the other porters but kennys doesnt take power away from where you already have it, his just adds to it wherever you want it. The mx port wiht boost ports will just give it more everywhere. Just my 2 cents

[woodsracer144]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mok3b3vJsFI&feature=related something like the finished project... just not sure on the colors...

[2001warriorman]

then most likely youd like PT mids or pro circuits. I say PT mids I just have a thing for them the procircuits are a good pipe to. IMO the PTS have amazing mid and bottem end and fly on the top. If you plan to get it ported and you think you might want that extra bit of top you might enjoy tommeys with the trail/mx port.

I realy dont recomend 2 into 1 carbs but they will give it more bottem and easier tunability but will make your topend power realy suffer and they just seem to take away the snappiness. Properly tuned 26s or 28s are the way to go imo. Id say bump your compression up as well.

Any of the pipes mentioned will work it all depends on your preference once you gear them theyll all perform great some will just lack a little more where others shine.

[woodsracer144]

Originally posted by 2001warriorman
Since your already getting a topend Id get the whole topend/porting kit from HJR, passion, and bansheeboyz (banshee boyz is my personal choice hes doing a trail port with boost ports to give it more topend as well) If you got a trail port with lets say t5s or more of an upper power band pipe youd have all over power. Im not sure about the other porters but kennys doesnt take power away from where you already have it, his just adds to it wherever you want it. The mx port wiht boost ports will just give it more everywhere. Just my 2 cents

I find the over rev worthless cause that is when the peak Hp drops in the high RPMs i rode my blaster like that pinned to the wood all the time but after looking at dynos i've seen the power curves and stuff and i've started to not have it scream like a pissed bee... my 250r revved like a mother focker...

what do the boost bottles do? anything at all?

[woodsracer144]

what size carbs or OE on them? do they have the gay TORS system?

I know exactly what you need for the banshee.

Paul Turner Mid-Range Pipes
MX/Trail Porting from HJR (Herr Juggs Racing)
Noss Head w/ 21cc domes
Stock stroke Hotrods crank
28mm carbs

While it may cost a decent bit, it's hella worth it.

Suspension wise,

+2 a-arms, elka shocks, rear shock re-valve re-spring, lonestar axle.

I would stay away from bansheeboyz... They aren't quite known yet and their website looks like it was made by a 3 year old. Kevin at HJR is well known and a banshee mastermind.

[2001warriorman]

The over rev doesnt have much your right but the fmfs just didnt pull after so long they fell right on there face and were gutless. I like to have that extra bit I ride my bikes fast and on the topend we have mainly back roads, fields, pits and hill climbs and trails, A little bit of everything. Boost bottles dont do anything they've actually been known to crack your intake boots and cause an air leak and nuke it. I can never pick a color for my banshee lol. My last one was black with a lime green frame. I have a complete white set and a set of drag cut white rears, and im going to buy blue back fenders to complete my blue set. 2 of the sets are cut beside the brackets which is to orginal my blue ones are cut more like a trx450r I like them alot more. It seems easier to pick plastic colors before you pick frame colors I always pick something that will match my other plastics too.

Video- mx ported banshee with paul turner mids

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QzVbIXsgGG4

And yeah, boost bottles SUCK

The fatty's fell on their face because they're a low-mid range pipe. They have a little over-rev, but not a ton because they weren't designed like that. They have a lot of mid-low snap.

[2001warriorman]

DMC, bansheeboyz may not be as well known but its right up there with HJR his work is immaculate and clean. Ive seen MANY pictures of his work and videos of his bike running and not one customer has had a complaint. You know your engine builder stands behind his work when he says if you dont like my porting ill give you a complete refund of your money. I've talked to Kevin from HJR and he didn't seem to be able to fill my needs hes more known for porting duners or drag bikes..

And DMC is right about the mods. PCs or PTs will be more then good any type of cool head (I use pro design) a Trued and welded crank is always a good investment. A quality filter to keep dirt and grime out. Any type of +2 A arm of your choice and shock of your choice thats all on personal preference. One thing not mentioned is the adjustable timing plate. A very good cheap mod.

yup. Im picking up a stator plate to try and gain more low-end from these dmc's.

[2001warriorman]

Kens setting me up with a fresh topend, that porting, A clutch kit he developed from an R1 (springs and plates) and an adjustable timing plate with the gaskets. Not sure what to set it at yet he was guessing around +6 or 7 which seems a bit high but hes the builder not me.

Originally posted by 2001warriorman
Kens setting me up with a fresh topend, that porting, A clutch kit he developed from an R1 (springs and plates) and an adjustable timing plate with the gaskets. Not sure what to set it at yet he was guessing around +6 or 7 which seems a bit high but hes the builder not me.

I wouldn't go ANY MORE then +4. That's dangerous.

And I hope you know, R1 plates are nothing special. They bolt right into the banshee. It's not custom and he didn't develope it. People have been doing it for a long time now.

[2001warriorman]

I guess he didn't develope he developed his clutch set up he was explaining it to me he didnt something different with it, it may only be with his lockouts though im not sure. +6 or 7 is really high but thats just a guess well start at 5 most likely and check compression and everything to determine octane and how far to advance it. The R1 clutch is gonna last alot longer then most of the other ones I go through clutches to often so the more durability it has the better. Im used to the barnett kit on the warrior we had it was stiff as hell. +4 isnt really that far advanced you'll see some gains but a set timing plate like that isn't any good imo most engine builders will tell you to get an adjustable one.

Originally posted by 2001warriorman
I guess he didn't develope he developed his clutch set up he was explaining it to me he didnt something different with it, it may only be with his lockouts though im not sure. +6 or 7 is really high but thats just a guess well start at 5 most likely and check compression and everything to determine octane and how far to advance it. The R1 clutch is gonna last alot longer then most of the other ones I go through clutches to often so the more durability it has the better. Im used to the barnett kit on the warrior we had it was stiff as hell. +4 isnt really that far advanced you'll see some gains but a set timing plate like that isn't any good imo most engine builders will tell you to get an adjustable one.

I know they're all adjustable, but I wouldn't go past +4. On a mild fairly stock bike, +7 can melt holes in the top of the pistons. +4 is a safe advancement and enough to make a difference.

It's common to use R6, R1, FZR600, and FZR1000 fibers, with stock steels, and HD clutch springs.

[2001warriorman]

He makes his own steels with the kit im not sure what springs they are. Mabey im wrong but didnt yours get ported by passion? Id talk to Jimm and see what he recomends

Originally posted by 2001warriorman
He makes his own steels with the kit im not sure what springs they are. Mabey im wrong but didnt yours get ported by passion? Id talk to Jimm and see what he recomends

No, I just got the top end rebuild done by him. His porting is top notch, but expensive. HJR is just as good and a lot cheaper.

Next engine tear down my cylinders are most likely going to HJR.

Im building all my suspension first. You can only go so fast on stock suspension.;)

[woodsracer144]

do you still have that quad? im guessing thats yours...

No, that's DMCBanshee's banshee. He's a member on here but he's more active over on bansheehq.

And he still owns it.

[2001warriorman]

I hear you there my last banshee was a j arm frame and was slightly twisted from the drunk who had it before me and the shocks were blown and the bearings were starting to get a little play. It was a sad bike but ran like a top its motors going in the wide A arm banshee.

DMCBanshee actually won QOTM- http://www.atvriders.com/qotm/quadofthemonth200702yamahabanshee.html


And yeah. I have right now +2 +1 J-arms im in the process of installing, and Works triple rate shocks.
Rear axle is next. Im not touching the shock, I like the stock rear shock.

[2001warriorman]

I picked up my a arm shee with dual rates, +2 a arms I wanna say there housers but there painted white so idk, +4 axle, and 2 motors in peices pretty much both needed cranks tho. Was missing one upper case though but for 400 bucks it was a steal.

Originally posted by 2001warriorman
I picked up my a arm shee with dual rates, +2 a arms I wanna say there housers but there painted white so idk, +4 axle, and 2 motors in peices pretty much both needed cranks tho. Was missing one upper case though but for 400 bucks it was a steal. '

Yeah. I had my arms powder'd by Pappy. He did an amazing job. Looks like new. They're gibson uppers and Lonestar lowers I believe?

Can't wait to hit the mines and pound over crap in top gear:D

[2001warriorman]

So woods racer you said you were wantin to do some different colors on it what did you have in mind?

[2001warriorman]

We take our bikes to the strip mines by our place. My dads been riding there since he was a kid but the banshee doesnt go there its more of a bike heaven quads cant realy get around easily there, There more of bike hills and real big pits beside the quarry's thats when the kx's get busted out :devil:

[woodsracer144]

Originally posted by 2001warriorman
So woods racer you said you were wantin to do some different colors on it what did you have in mind?

Im not really sure, i like the old school OE stlye stuff... like the 250rs with the OE race shaved...
I would like to get some white fronts and have a OE race shave done to them...

I think some time down the line i'll make the chassis a outlaw and use 250r a-arms and swingers and links and all that ... im not sure how soon that will be though..

[2001warriorman]

I like white plastics they just stick out. And almost any frame colors matches white or black. Im going blue with mine. Those lonestar frames are insanely expensive but they handle like a dream I heard.

[woodsracer144]

on that dude can ****in ride! i was watchin his vids...

[2001warriorman]

Ya hes a very good rider he has a ktm sx too hes realy good.

[woodsracer144]

i want something like this in the end... just not a duner... but look like this...

[woodsracer144]

on board... tight as **** i think

Those outlaw frames are AMAZING... but good luck getting your hands on one...

There are no 250R geometry frames made anymore... and to get your hands on the set up is going to cost a pretty penny. Probably a couple grand. Super rare to find.

[woodsracer144]

Originally posted by DMC-4OOEX
Those outlaw frames are AMAZING... but good luck getting your hands on one...

There are no 250R geometry frames made anymore... and to get your hands on the set up is going to cost a pretty penny. Probably a couple grand. Super rare to find.


hahaha! oh man you make me lough! your funny you really are! haha! I got my hands dipped in ink that was worth the dip...

I think i would mod a OE chassis first time and then 2nd time around i'll make one from scrach...i dont know if i could do it all right now but in a few years i think i could...

Originally posted by woodsracer144
hahaha! oh man you make me lough! your funny you really are! haha! I got my hands dipped in ink that was worth the dip...

I think i would mod a OE chassis first time and then 2nd time around i'll make one from scrach...i dont know if i could do it all right now but in a few years i think i could...

What's with the sarcasm and who was trying to be funny?:confused: I pointed out what is true, they no longer make aftermarket 250r geo frames.

Making your own is possible. How was I supposed to know thats what you meant?
Someone already did it on bansheehq.

[2001warriorman]

Thats kind of how im going to do mine. A blue frame and a arms and swinger mabey some black and my blue fronts/white backs and hood and tank cover, full blues, or full blacks. Theyll always get switched around. I want to pick a frame color to go with all my plastics. Im no big fan of the halogens the stock lights kinda have that trade mark look to me idk. If you ever get the chance to buy an outlaw frame id pick it up in a second there simply amazing. Modding a stock one would be a good project I dont know enough about frame geometry and what not to do that though let alone build one from scratch. Id deffinatley give you a pat on the back if you did that :devil:

Originally posted by 2001warriorman
Thats kind of how im going to do mine. A blue frame and a arms and swinger mabey some black and my blue fronts/white backs and hood and tank cover, full blues, or full blacks. Theyll always get switched around. I want to pick a frame color to go with all my plastics. Im no big fan of the halogens the stock lights kinda have that trade mark look to me idk. If you ever get the chance to buy an outlaw frame id pick it up in a second there simply amazing. Modding a stock one would be a good project I dont know enough about frame geometry and what not to do that though let alone build one from scratch. Id deffinatley give you a pat on the back if you did that :devil:

Yeah I love the stock headlights with the stock grills. I hate those queer little chrome lights everyone puts on them.. kills the whole style. But to each his own.

[2001warriorman]

Ya I want to get some graphics for mine and mabey a grill I dont like some of the after market ones because their to revealing of the radiator behind it but im not to fond of the maier grill that I have but we'll see.

[woodsracer144]

Originally posted by DMC-4OOEX
What's with the sarcasm and who was trying to be funny?:confused: I pointed out what is true, they no longer make aftermarket 250r geo frames.

Making your own is possible. How was I supposed to know thats what you meant?
Someone already did it on bansheehq.


no, i didnt mean to be rude over it, i was trying to joke around...

but i got alot of 250r stuff so i would just mod it to fit in there but im not really sure when, im going to do alot of different mods, in 12 years i might have all my quads done...

Originally posted by woodsracer144
no, i didnt mean to be rude over it, i was trying to joke around...

but i got alot of 250r stuff so i would just mod it to fit in there but im not really sure when, im going to do alot of different mods, in 12 years i might have all my quads done...

lol alright. Just something about it sounded sarcastic.

It would be pretty sick to modify the front end. Maybe clone the stock banshee frame but using titanium.

My ultimate goal is to make a hybrid a couple years down the road. My banshee engine in a 450 chassis. But for right now im modding the suspension on the stock frame and leaving it that way.

[woodsracer144]

Originally posted by DMC-4OOEX
lol alright. Just something about it sounded sarcastic.

It would be pretty sick to modify the front end. Maybe clone the stock banshee frame but using titanium.

My ultimate goal is to make a hybrid a couple years down the road. My banshee engine in a 450 chassis. But for right now im modding the suspension on the stock frame and leaving it that way.

a TI chassis banshee would be $$$ a 4x8 sheet of that stuff is like 600 bucks! a 1/16 thick i could weld it up at tech but it would be $$$

[2001warriorman]

Theres a way to put it in a yfz450 frame its been done. Im not sure if you need special headers but the silencers I saw were deffinatley speical made. They came side by side like dmc 916's I think cascade made them. You also need a special radiator I think. Its on youtube ill try and dig it up it would be a fun bike to ride :cool:

Originally posted by 2001warriorman
Theres a way to put it in a yfz450 frame its been done. Im not sure if you need special headers but the silencers I saw were deffinatley speical made. They came side by side like dmc 916's I think cascade made them. You also need a special radiator I think. Its on youtube ill try and dig it up it would be a fun bike to ride :cool:
I know it can be put in, I saw it on bansheehq a while back and on youtube.

But I have the ability to put it in any chassis I want. My dad owns a machine/fabrication shop.

[2001warriorman]

Ya I have confidence I can put it in making brackets is nothing hard neighbor is a skilled welder and took many courses and another works at a machine shop and my dad is the head in a tool distributor so I pretty much have it set. The only problem normally is clearance issues with the exhaust(s) and the swing arm if it bolts through the back of the motor but luckily on a banshee it doesnt.

[woodsracer144]

so how much is just a port job and pistons form them guys? i can bore it my self... i have a mill...

Originally posted by woodsracer144
so how much is just a port job and pistons form them guys? i can bore it my self... i have a mill...

You can't just bore it with a regular mill. It will be all messed up. You need the actual boring machine, that holds the boring tool from the top AND bottom of the cylinder. If you do it from just the top the tool can sway the slightest bit and put odd tapers on the bore.


As far as top ends,
$245 Passion Rebuild (Piston kit, gaskets, bore & hone, wash, exhaust port cleanup)
$250 HJR MX/Trail Port

[woodsracer144]

i know about bore bits and all that, i got a guy that builds high HP pulling tractors and hes got a mill there that he uses to bore....

[2001warriorman]

Well it depends where you want your piston kits and boring from and it depends on what type of porting your looking to get. If you give us a little more info im sure we can hook you up :cool:

[2001warriorman]

I know a complete topend kit from kennys 140 and ill check on a trail/mx port you can ask him to drill boost ports too and itll pull harder everywhere. I'll try and get a quote on the whole deal if thats the porting youd like, my cylinders got shipped out yesterday so when they get back ill post some pics of his work up if you didnt already send them out to anyone or anything