Got my first truck!!

[jesseweaver]

just sold the mustang and got my first truck... '99 silverado 1500 4.8 4x4 128,000. now i don't have to borrow trucks to haul my bike around lol.

http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff71/1999_416ex/DSCN2346.jpg


http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff71/1999_416ex/DSCN2347.jpg


http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff71/1999_416ex/DSCN2348.jpg

1. Topper is coming off
2. Running boards are coming off
3. Tint to match the back windows
4. Exhaust. Any suggestions? i was thinking super 44s. i know i want a 4 inch chrome pipe with rolled lip

Then i just wanna keep doing small stuff, i think i might lose all the badges, get that black piece above the front bumper painted maroon, get the two tone gold painted maroon and lose that strip, get a chip, and eventually rims and tires and a little lift, it seems like it sits really low but that might just be cause of the running boards.

[Exrider434]

loooks reall clean, nice buy

[jesseweaver]

i got it from my grandpa. he only used it when he went to the cabin and the drive was icey or else he'd sell it. i told him he could use it whenever he needs it so i got it for $5,000

[muddy400EX]

nice! i figured it was an old mans truck. camper and running boards gave it away,lol

[KXRida]

Very nice! I'm thinking about getting a new truck as well. I like my F150, but I think I might be leaning towards a powerstroke or a new raptor. I just started a new job and get a $5000 sign on bonus, so we will see come summer time.

http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z152/Rmrider125/0802091958.jpg

Get a good bed liner (drop in if you have to) and you'll be set. I also put different anchor points in. I wasn't really liking the factory ones.

[fastredrider44]

Originally posted by jesseweaver


1. Topper is coming off
2. Running boards are coming off
3. Tint to match the back windows
4. Exhaust. Any suggestions? i was thinking super 44s. i know i want a 4 inch chrome pipe with rolled lip

Then i just wanna keep doing small stuff, i think i might lose all the badges, get that black piece above the front bumper painted maroon, get the two tone gold painted maroon and lose that strip, get a chip, and eventually rims and tires and a little lift, it seems like it sits really low but that might just be cause of the running boards.

4inch Chrome pipe with rolled edges? Seriously? If any kind of exhaust, get a flowmaster 40 series with turndowns. 2 reasons. Backpressure is your friend with these trucks, and its a 4.8. No need to make a 4.8 obnoxiously loud.

A chip isn't going to benefit you much. A custom tune would be better if you can't just leave it alone.

You can turn the torsion bars a little and get the nose a little higher, but it wont ride quite as good afterwards. And remember, God kills a kitten everytime a body lift is installed.

Looks like a great truck for the money. Keep an eye on the rockers and cab corners. It's not a matter if, its a matter of when.

Good luck.

[yfzrider690]

Nice looking truck. Don't know if you know or not but these trucks cost a lot to lift because of the independant front suspension. That's why I never lifted mine. Good buy though for sure.

[jesseweaver]

Originally posted by yfzrider690
Nice looking truck. Don't know if you know or not but these trucks cost a lot to lift because of the independant front suspension. That's why I never lifted mine. Good buy though for sure.

no i didn't know that, thanks. ill admit i don't know a whole lot about these trucks

[yfzrider690]

Ya these trucks are like 2000 bucks to lift them. It's ridiculous how much it cost. They are nice trucks though and you will like it.

[jesseweaver]

Originally posted by fastredrider44
4inch Chrome pipe with rolled edges? Seriously? If any kind of exhaust, get a flowmaster 40 series with turndowns. 2 reasons. Backpressure is your friend with these trucks, and its a 4.8. No need to make a 4.8 obnoxiously loud.




why turndowns? or why is backpressure my friend with this truck? yea i don't know a whole lot about exhaust either, i just like how my friends ram looks with 4" rolled lip. and a couple of my friends have 44s i like how they sound.

[brian76708]

Originally posted by yfzrider690
Nice looking truck. Don't know if you know or not but these trucks cost a lot to lift because of the independant front suspension. That's why I never lifted mine. Good buy though for sure.

thats why if you do lift them you do a SFA and it cost a little more the stupid IFS lift kits.

for exhaust i like the new flowmaster 50 series there quieter and i think they sound really good not as raspy as 44s.

I definitely suggest a custom tune instead of a chip im getting my s10 done this summer by www.wait4meperformance.com its only $160 for a whole new pcm about half the price of most chips and from other forms im on, it is said to give you better gains. There our other companies out there that do the same thing that you could look at to. id find a forum for the full size trucks and see what there doing.

[KXRida]

Originally posted by yfzrider690
Ya these trucks are like 2000 bucks to lift them. It's ridiculous how much it cost. They are nice trucks though and you will like it.

That's about the average price to lift any truck now and days. The kit I wanted to get for my F150 was around $3000 but it had fox coil overs with it. Best priced lift I found for my f150 (full lift) was $1700 for a superlift. I'll only run superlift, fabtech, or procomp on my vehicles.

Yes, you can do an SAS, but you're going to have some extensive modding it in. Most likely a sub frame mod of some sort I'm sure. Plus you're going to get a better ride with a short arm/long arm (similar to Aarms) setup than an SAS.

[Ruby Soho]

a SAS isn't cheap.. if you do it the right way.

its also not that expensive to lift these either....

nice truck..for a chevy:o

[KXRida]

Went down and looked at this today...

http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z152/Rmrider125/truck-2.jpg

http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z152/Rmrider125/truck2.jpg

http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z152/Rmrider125/truck3.jpg

http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z152/Rmrider125/truck4.jpg

Also talked to the dealer a little bit. I could trade my f150 in on a supercrew f150 and only end up paying like $50 more a month than what I'm paying now and the truck has less miles than mine!

Good buy man. If it were me, and I'm sure you won't, but SAS isn't worth the extra cost unless you're doing some serious wheeling. Cost vs. Gain here doesn't equal out. I would go with a leveling kit and maybe some 33's. BTW- I'm jealous. That's the exact truck I want. Remove the back seats and wall that ***** off. :devil: I'm a stereo whore. :p

Good buy man.

[Rich250RRacer]

Originally posted by KXRida
Went down and looked at this today...

http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z152/Rmrider125/truck-2.jpg

http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z152/Rmrider125/truck2.jpg

http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z152/Rmrider125/truck3.jpg

http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z152/Rmrider125/truck4.jpg

Also talked to the dealer a little bit. I could trade my f150 in on a supercrew f150 and only end up paying like $50 more a month than what I'm paying now and the truck has less miles than mine!

By far the UGLIEST truck on the face of the earth, even worse than the abortion called Silverado. It looks cobbled together, too much chrome, just too much going on in general.

Originally posted by Rich250RRacer
By far the UGLIEST truck on the face of the earth, even worse than the abortion called Silverado. It looks cobbled together, too much chrome, just too much going on in general.

Yeah I think I'll dis-agree with everything you said... You have bad taste. :chinese:

[Pipeless416]

Originally posted by Nova
Yeah I think I'll dis-agree with everything you said... You have bad taste. :chinese:

x2. there's not much i wouldn't do for that truck. i love the 6.4.

[KXRida]

Originally posted by Rich250RRacer
By far the UGLIEST truck on the face of the earth, even worse than the abortion called Silverado. It looks cobbled together, too much chrome, just too much going on in general.

Tis one man's opinion. I'm just waiting on starting my new job (wednesday) so I get a better idea of my new income and see what kind of increase in payments I'll see.

Sounds to me like you're a dodge guy. Don't worry I went and looked at this too. Too overpriced for what it is...

http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z152/Rmrider125/ram.jpg

http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z152/Rmrider125/ram5.jpg

http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z152/Rmrider125/ram4.jpg

http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z152/Rmrider125/ram3.jpg

Call me lazy, but if I'm paying that much for a truck I want push button 4wd!

[yfzrider690]

Dodges are hunks of crap and the ford 6.4 diesel is junk. If you're gonna get a ford go with the 7.3.

[Jigsaw]

Originally posted by KXRida
Went down and looked at this today...

http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z152/Rmrider125/truck-2.jpg

http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z152/Rmrider125/truck2.jpg

http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z152/Rmrider125/truck3.jpg

http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z152/Rmrider125/truck4.jpg

Also talked to the dealer a little bit. I could trade my f150 in on a supercrew f150 and only end up paying like $50 more a month than what I'm paying now and the truck has less miles than mine!

Sexy I have one too

Not mine but simaler
http://image.fourwheeler.com/f/12601777/129_0806_06_z+2009_ford_super_duty+front_view_mud. jpg

[fastredrider44]

Jesse, back to you. The back pressure is so that when you let off the gas it doesn't crackle and pop, and sound bad. Its also so that you get better power than what you get with tips. Only downside to turndowns is if not dont correctly, theres a chance it can drone and be noisy in the cab. I wouldn't worry bout lifting it for now, as its not cheap. And 33s will only fit if you run a 8 inch wheel. If you run a 9 or wider, a 31 is about all you can squeeze.

KXRida, I'm not really a fan of either one of those trucks, but that blue on the Dodge is a very good looking color.

[jesseweaver]

Originally posted by fastredrider44
Jesse, back to you. The back pressure is so that when you let off the gas it doesn't crackle and pop, and sound bad. Its also so that you get better power than what you get with tips. Only downside to turndowns is if not dont correctly, theres a chance it can drone and be noisy in the cab. I wouldn't worry bout lifting it for now, as its not cheap. And 33s will only fit if you run a 8 inch wheel. If you run a 9 or wider, a 31 is about all you can squeeze.



yea idk i never really liked the looks of turndowns though :ermm: yea well i'll have a while to think about it, i wanna get a newer gsxr before i do much to id

[TCracin440ex]

Originally posted by brian76708
thats why if you do lift them you do a SFA and it cost a little more the stupid IFS lift kits.


bro i hate to tell you but SFA is not cheap. doing a good SAS to ifs is going to hit the pocket book up for about 5grand or better. half ton ifs isnt going to handle no more then half ton SFA, so whats the point of putting half ton axle under teh front when u still got a weak 10 bolt rear. if i was going to SAS my truck im using dana 60 front and corp 14 bolt rear those 2 axles alone are going to cost just as much as an ifs lift, then to have them rebuilt, and regeared is going to cost another grand or so more. SAS isnt always an option when the pocketbook is limited. so please know your facts before you post

im rockin ifs lift on my truck and ive broke more rearends then what i have ifs parts.
http://i195.photobucket.com/albums/z254/OneBaddAssZ71/snow1219001.jpg
http://i195.photobucket.com/albums/z254/OneBaddAssZ71/snow1219008.jpg

[TCracin440ex]

btw go straight lines into a Y pipe dumped on the corners of the bumper. sounds good

<object width="425" height="344"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/e8aZLn3oP1M&hl=en_US&fs=1&"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/e8aZLn3oP1M&hl=en_US&fs=1&" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="425" height="344"></embed></object>

[fastredrider44]

To each his own I guess, but that's the sound I try to avoid with mufflers.:blah:

And Jesse, what do you mean you don't like the looks of em? You cant see them. lol

[TCracin440ex]

Originally posted by fastredrider44
To each his own I guess, but that's the sound I try to avoid with mufflers.:blah:

And Jesse, what do you mean you don't like the looks of em? You cant see them. lol

that aint mufflers. thats just straight piped

[fastredrider44]

lol. I know. Thats what I was sayin, is that I use mufflers.:p

[TCracin440ex]

all in personal preference i guess. i had a 40 series on my truck and it didnt sound the way i liked so straight pipes. idk why ppl think flowmaster is the best flowing exhaust but it really aint. id get something like a magnaflow or cherry bomb they sound good

[fastredrider44]

Very true. Reason I said flowmaster is that's what he said. Magnaflow is a better exhaust performance wise for sure. I actually have true dual thunderbolts on both of my V8 trucks.

[KXRida]

Originally posted by TCracin440ex
all in personal preference i guess. i had a 40 series on my truck and it didnt sound the way i liked so straight pipes. idk why ppl think flowmaster is the best flowing exhaust but it really aint. id get something like a magnaflow or cherry bomb they sound good

Agreed. I'm not a big fan of flowdisasters. The new 44's have a pretty raspy sound that I don't really care for. I run magnaflow or borla on all of my vehicles.

[TCracin440ex]

Originally posted by KXRida
Agreed. I'm not a big fan of flowdisasters. The new 44's have a pretty raspy sound that I don't really care for. I run magnaflow or borla on all of my vehicles.

lmao never heard them called flowdisasters before.

borla is really good exhaust but got a good price. imo you get what you pay for. i had flowmasters on my truck and they rusted out so i just had them hack the flowmaster out and put a Y pipe in and used the existing tail pipe

[brian76708]

Originally posted by TCracin440ex
bro i hate to tell you but SFA is not cheap. doing a good SAS to ifs is going to hit the pocket book up for about 5grand or better. half ton ifs isnt going to handle no more then half ton SFA, so whats the point of putting half ton axle under teh front when u still got a weak 10 bolt rear. if i was going to SAS my truck im using dana 60 front and corp 14 bolt rear those 2 axles alone are going to cost just as much as an ifs lift, then to have them rebuilt, and regeared is going to cost another grand or so more. SAS isnt always an option when the pocketbook is limited. so please know your facts before you post

im rockin ifs lift on my truck and ive broke more rearends then what i have ifs parts.
http://i195.photobucket.com/albums/z254/OneBaddAssZ71/snow1219001.jpg
http://i195.photobucket.com/albums/z254/OneBaddAssZ71/snow1219008.jpg

its better to be over axle in the front then have that stupid ifs in the front. Then you save up to do the rear later. I no it doesn't get into your head that 35s + destroy that week ifs. (yes here is your turn to start ranting how you and your friends haven't had ball joints or wheel bearing problems or cv shaft while doing your mall crawling) and yes it will cost 5 grand + if you don't do it yourself I sometimes forget that must people don't work on there own trucks now a days . yea i bet you blew the junk g80 limited slip on 38s or whatever your running.

[TCracin440ex]

u got to be the stupidest person ive ever met in my life. go on FSC or GMFS and look at all the guys running ifs. its not as weak as everybody thinks. the key to ifs lasting is maintence maintence maintence. grease ball joints, grease the pitman arm, grease the idler arm, the center link, tierod ends etc.

idc what you say you know jack shyt about ifs or SAS. half ton axles is half ton axles i dont care any which way you cut it. my truck is not a mall crawler. i used to wheel my truck all the time.

why the hell would i want to upgrade the front first then upgrade the rear last. last time i checked the axle that is constantly under power is the rear. a good SAS conversion for ifs is going to cost you way up in the money. you could do a cheap SAS and still be breaking just as many parts as you would with ifs. idc how much money you throw in a half ton axle. its still a half ton axle. a 35-37ish is about all its going to handle.

and FYI i have had wheelbearing problems, i have had balljoint problems. but incase you didnt know and are retarded half ton axles still have wheelbearings and ball joints. the thing is most dummys like you dont know what maintence and a grease gun is.

the only way your ever going to get rid of balljoint, and wheel bearing problems is to get an older dana 60 with a kingpin frontend that doesnt use balljoints for steering.

far as cv's most idiots snap cvs when they have their torsion bars cranked to the max and try to do dumb shyt and get them in a bind. the flatter you keep a cv the better off your going to be.

class is over. please sit down and stfu.

[TCracin440ex]

Originally posted by brian76708
its better to be over axle in the front then have that stupid ifs in the front. Then you save up to do the rear later. I no it doesn't get into your head that 35s + destroy that week ifs. (yes here is your turn to start ranting how you and your friends haven't had ball joints or wheel bearing problems or cv shaft while doing your mall crawling) and yes it will cost 5 grand + if you don't do it yourself. yea i bet you blew the junk g80 limited slip on 38s or whatever your running.


oh and btw moron. i was the smart one and replaced my Grenade80 before it busted out. im running a detroit tru track and my truck is geared. alot of people think they can put large tires on a vehicle without regearing. wrong!!!

PWNED again

[brian76708]

Originally posted by TCracin440ex
u got to be the stupidest person ive ever met in my life. go on FSC or GMFS and look at all the guys running ifs. its not as weak as everybody thinks. the key to ifs lasting is maintence maintence maintence. grease ball joints, grease the pitman arm, grease the idler arm, the center link, tierod ends etc.

idc what you say you know jack shyt about ifs or SAS. half ton axles is half ton axles i dont care any which way you cut it. my truck is not a mall crawler. i used to wheel my truck all the time.

why the hell would i want to upgrade the front first then upgrade the rear last. last time i checked the axle that is constantly under power is the rear. a good SAS conversion for ifs is going to cost you way up in the money. you could do a cheap SAS and still be breaking just as many parts as you would with ifs. idc how much money you throw in a half ton axle. its still a half ton axle. a 35-37ish is about all its going to handle.

and FYI i have had wheelbearing problems, i have had balljoint problems. but incase you didnt know and are retarded half ton axles still have wheelbearings and ball joints. the thing is most dummys like you dont know what maintence and a grease gun is.

the only way your ever going to get rid of balljoint, and wheel bearing problems is to get an older dana 60 with a kingpin frontend that doesnt use balljoints for steering.

far as cv's most idiots snap cvs when they have their torsion bars cranked to the max and try to do dumb shyt and get them in a bind. the flatter you keep a cv the better off your going to be.

class is over. please sit down and stfu.

I never said your getting rid of ball joints and wheel bearings with a sas what i did say is a sfa will make them last a lot longer. you can keep your ifs and i have to congratulate you that you actually re geared it like you should and you even get bonus points for changing out the g80.

[jesseweaver]

Originally posted by fastredrider44
Looks like a great truck for the money. Keep an eye on the rockers and cab corners. It's not a matter if, its a matter of when.

Good luck.

yea i know, almost all those cheevys i know are starting to rust. im pissed, mies bubbling out a little bit around each of the rear wheel wells and the passenger side cab in the rear corner and a little behind the bottom of the drivers door. idk what to do :ermm: i'd like to fix it but have some other things i want to spend money on before this truck.

[TCracin440ex]

Originally posted by brian76708
I never said your getting rid of ball joints and wheel bearings with a sas what i did say is a sfa will make them last a lot longer.

not true. get that thru your head. SFA dont always mean stronger by anymeans. dont mean durability by anymeans. maintence maintence maintence.i cant stress it enough. maintence is the key to longevity. those who dont maintain and expect shyt to last are the ones that end up having to replace parts prematurely. reguardless of what it is


far as SAS on a silverado. ive priced it myself it is not cheap. i sourced all my parts, sourced the bracketry, sourced it all. the amount of effort and work needed to SAS a truck that aint going to be wheeled everyday of its life is not worth it. ive seen guys spend as much as 15k on a SAS for their trucks. a guy on fullsize chevy is doing a cheap SAS build now and its already costin him a chunk and hes just doing a half ton SAS with a chevy d44 axles, np208 passenger side drop transfer case, and his gearing hes already well over the 2000 mark.

[brian76708]

Originally posted by jesseweaver
yea i know, almost all those cheevys i know are starting to rust. im pissed, mies bubbling out a little bit around each of the rear wheel wells and the passenger side cab in the rear corner and a little behind the bottom of the drivers door. idk what to do :ermm: i'd like to fix it but have some other things i want to spend money on before this truck.

very true i hate looking at my cab corners ill be fixing mine this summer and getting the body line down linex or do it yourself raptor.

[brian76708]

Originally posted by TCracin440ex
not true. get that thru your head. SFA dont always mean stronger by anymeans. dont mean durability by anymeans. maintence maintence maintence.i cant stress it enough. maintence is the key to longevity. those who dont maintain and expect shyt to last are the ones that end up having to replace parts prematurely. reguardless of what it is

you sir should be a president. Every time i make a point you change it into a whole new topic no shiit you will wear out your front end if your not greasing it. I also enjoyed the name calling i think i might have referred to you as a mall crawler once and you continually call me a idiot retard ext. why don't you grow up im done arguing with you as you clearly are to narrow minded.

[TCracin440ex]

Originally posted by brian76708
you sir should be a president. Every time i make a point you change it into a whole new topic no shiit you will wear out your front end if your not greasing it. I also enjoyed the name calling i think i might have referred to you as a mall crawler once and you continually call me a idiot retard ext. why don't you grow up im done arguing with you as you clearly are to narrow minded.

me narrow minded, no u just know jack about ifs. what kind of truck do you drive refresh my memory?

[tbrackman84]

hey, lifting a truck just makes it harder to load your quad in it! I have a 92 s10 4.3L V6, i gutted my cat and put a flowmaster 40 on it and a turndown and i love how it sounds, not trying to make it like a V8, i just love how the 4.3 sounds. In my opinion, the only downside to having turndowns is that it makes more interior noise, i guess it just depends on what you want...

[KXRida]

Originally posted by brian76708
its better to be over axle in the front then have that stupid ifs in the front. Then you save up to do the rear later. I no it doesn't get into your head that 35s + destroy that week ifs. (yes here is your turn to start ranting how you and your friends haven't had ball joints or wheel bearing problems or cv shaft while doing your mall crawling) and yes it will cost 5 grand + if you don't do it yourself I sometimes forget that must people don't work on there own trucks now a days . yea i bet you blew the junk g80 limited slip on 38s or whatever your running.

You're slowly losing all credibility and may as well sit down before you make a complete fool out of yourself. TC has his info right. A SAS isn't cheap and you're still not eliminating ball joint, alignment, wheel bearing, etc issues. It's the nature of a lifted truck. I have bearing issues mainly to running a heavily offset wheel, but grease works wonders on them. Alignment is also an issue with the TTB rangers I run, so that is why superlift makes alignment bushings that 95% of the population has no idea about. The common misconception with TTB vehicles such as my ranger is that a D44 is so much stronger than the D35. In all reality, it's not, it's just the hot swap that everyone is doing. Same thing with jeep guys. They're all hot and bothered to swap in a rear D44 where as an 8.8 is actually stronger and bolts in. Please know your facts and have your information in order before making such outlandish comments.

[TCracin440ex]

Originally posted by KXRida
You're slowly losing all credibility and may as well sit down before you make a complete fool out of yourself. TC has his info right. A SAS isn't cheap and you're still not eliminating ball joint, alignment, wheel bearing, etc issues. It's the nature of a lifted truck. I have bearing issues mainly to running a heavily offset wheel, but grease works wonders on them. Alignment is also an issue with the TTB rangers I run, so that is why superlift makes alignment bushings that 95% of the population has no idea about. The common misconception with TTB vehicles such as my ranger is that a D44 is so much stronger than the D35. In all reality, it's not, it's just the hot swap that everyone is doing. Same thing with jeep guys. They're all hot and bothered to swap in a rear D44 where as an 8.8 is actually stronger and bolts in. Please know your facts and have your information in order before making such outlandish comments.

thank you, finally somebody knows what they are talking about. if i was going to do any SAS on my truck i damn sure aint putting a 44 in there. im going to go with dana 60 out of a 78-79 ford with king pins to elimnate ball joints, and the rear axle id be going with a corp 14 bolt out of a newer 2500hd with the rear disk brake set up

and that set up is not cheap by any means.

[KXRida]

Originally posted by TCracin440ex
thank you, finally somebody knows what they are talking about. if i was going to do any SAS on my truck i damn sure aint putting a 44 in there. im going to go with dana 60 out of a 78-79 ford with king pins to elimnate ball joints, and the rear axle id be going with a corp 14 bolt out of a newer 2500hd with the rear disk brake set up

and that set up is not cheap by any means.

even for junkyard axles you're probably still looking $1500 for the pair. When I swapped in my 8.8 I did a 100% overhaul on it and got all my parts at cost. With a regear and complete overhaul it was around $650. I already had the 8.8, so that saved me about $200-250. Keep in mind this is just an 8.8!! So for a completely rebuilt 8.8 it would've cost roughly $900 and that's with parts at cost. Now upgrade a full size axle (which you'd have to buy), gears (which are more expensive), all the parts you need (not at cost), and you have a small gold mine in just building the axle. Now start factoring in fabrication, steering setups (sometimes you have either buy or frankenstein steering boxes for an SAS) and all the other stuff involved in an SAS. The point of all this? It's not as cheap as everyone thinks. If it was cheap and easy everyone would do it. The only way I'd put a D44 in my ranger is if it had CTM shafts and joints. Right there is a healthy $900. How do I know all of this? I have a lifted ranger and my brother is building a set of Rockwell's for his.

[Ruby Soho]

its not worth SAS'ing unless your going to be wheeling big time.

[TCracin440ex]

Originally posted by Ruby Soho
its not worth SAS'ing unless your going to be wheeling big time.

thats exactly what i said. ifs will get the job done for occasional trips

[TCracin440ex]

oh and brian feel free to read this right here and then look at the bottom at the overall cost

http://homepage.mac.com/darketernal/SAS.html

[brian76708]

Originally posted by Ruby Soho
its not worth SAS'ing unless your going to be wheeling big time.

Its not worth running 38s unless your wheeling big time.

[fastredrider44]

Originally posted by brian76708
Its not worth running 38s unless your wheeling big time.

I have to agree on that.:blah:

For the record, I hate my IFS, but it only gets wheeled on occassion. I have a 85 to do my wheeling in.

So Jesse, any updates on what this thread was originally about?

Originally posted by fastredrider44
So Jesse, any updates on what this thread was originally about?

:p x2.

--Off the record.... Brian, you sound to me like a trend follower... "Do SAS because that's what everyone else is doing... They say it's better... So do it."

[brian76708]

Originally posted by KXRida
You're slowly losing all credibility and may as well sit down before you make a complete fool out of yourself. TC has his info right. A SAS isn't cheap and you're still not eliminating ball joint, alignment, wheel bearing, etc issues. It's the nature of a lifted truck. I have bearing issues mainly to running a heavily offset wheel, but grease works wonders on them. Alignment is also an issue with the TTB rangers I run, so that is why superlift makes alignment bushings that 95% of the population has no idea about. The common misconception with TTB vehicles such as my ranger is that a D44 is so much stronger than the D35. In all reality, it's not, it's just the hot swap that everyone is doing. Same thing with jeep guys. They're all hot and bothered to swap in a rear D44 where as an 8.8 is actually stronger and bolts in. Please know your facts and have your information in order before making such outlandish comments.

ttb is a whole different story. and yes if you running retarted offset it doesn't matter what your running you will have problems with wheel bearing and ball joints but if you dont think a solid axles are stronger in these points then the stock ifs your mistaken.

[extremeblastr]

sheesh a big arguement without me i'm feeling very left out here guys.


your all wrong its better to swap in honda type r parts you get an extra 25hp and because your axles are equal length it won't torque steer anymore oh and if you put in wheel bearings from a mustang you'll never have trouble with them again.

[brian76708]

Originally posted by Nova
:p x2.

--Off the record.... Brian, you sound to me like a trend follower... "Do SAS because that's what everyone else is doing... They say it's better... So do it."

yea just every one is doing sas now. a trend follower would be if i am talking about putting stacks on or something. You obviously must not know what a trend is.


if you want to talk more pm me let this kid have his thread back.

[KXRida]

Originally posted by brian76708
ttb is a whole different story. and yes if you running retarted offset it doesn't matter what your running you will have problems with wheel bearing and ball joints but if you dont think a solid axles are stronger in these points then the stock ifs your mistaken.

You easily forget I also have an IFS F150.

[jesseweaver]

Originally posted by fastredrider44


So Jesse, any updates on what this thread was originally about?

yea i got the topper and running boards off and cleaned it up pretty good. it sits a lot higher than those pictures now, it had a lot of stone and mosonry tools in the bed... first thing i want to get is a tow package. i'd like to find a tri fold tarp too. then exhaust. and tint the windows sometime too. i'm gonna tint them myself this time incase i get caught again so its not $250 down the drain again.

[Ruby Soho]

word of advice, if your tinting yourself.. TAKE YOUR TIME!!!:macho