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jayrodau
01-11-2010, 08:09 PM
I removed my headers to clean/polish them and one of my studs broke. I bought a stud extractor and had no luck. I am very confussed and upset looking for an answer. I want to get this fixed! Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.

Here is a pic:

mtrombla08
01-11-2010, 08:22 PM
it doesnt seem like u drilled the stud out? i would spray it with a good penetrating lube for a few days. then drill out to the extractor size and it should come out easy. the key is the lube and some time.

jayrodau
01-11-2010, 08:27 PM
Originally posted by mtrombla08
it doesnt seem like u drilled the stud out? i would spray it with a good penetrating lube for a few days. then drill out to the extractor size and it should come out easy. the key is the lube and some time.

I used an outside stud extractor, but it just slipped when I turned it. I guess I need to go back to the store and get a bolt extractor kit and try and drill it out. Is it hard to do? what kind of lube? I used wd-40 is that sufficient?

jayrodau
01-11-2010, 08:32 PM
I wonder if anyone else has had this problem? I had to order new oem studs/bolts and gaskets for the remount.
The whole drilling idea scares me.

tri5ron
01-11-2010, 08:46 PM
this might sound a bit crazy, but mix yourself a 50/50 mix of Acetone, and ATF.

It results in a rust breaking/disolving,
SUPER Penetrating oil,
that lab tests show to be more than TWICE as effective, in penetration, as well as torque required,
to break loose a stuck fastener,
as WD-40, PB Blaster, Liquid Wrench, or Break Free.

Not sure if that alone, will get your broken stud out, but it will certainly help.

Since you state that a stud extractor was ineffective,
( I'm assuming you were reffering to this type ? )
http://i111.photobucket.com/albums/n148/tri5ron/03%20400ex/IMG_8389.jpg

I'd bet that drilling and EZ-Outs won't do you much better, and you certainly do not want to complicate matters by risking a broken ez-out in the stud.


You MAY have to have it plasma burned out, then helicoil the hole.

CJM
01-11-2010, 08:49 PM
wd40 sucks as a lube, i alway use cutting oil (you can buy at the big home centers) or get some ob blaster or something.

jayrodau
01-11-2010, 08:58 PM
Originally posted by tri5ron
this might sound a bit crazy, but mix yourself a 50/50 mix of Acetone, and ATF.

It results in a rust breaking/disolving,
SUPER Penetrating oil,
that lab tests show to be more than TWICE as effective, in penetration, as well as torque required,
to break loose a stuck fastener,
as WD-40, PB Blaster, Liquid Wrench, or Break Free.

Not sure if that alone, will get your broken stud out, but it will certainly help.

Since you state that a stud extractor was ineffective,
( I'm assuming you were reffering to this type ? )
http://i111.photobucket.com/albums/n148/tri5ron/03%20400ex/IMG_8389.jpg

I'd bet that drilling and EZ-Outs won't do you much better, and you certainly do not want to complicate matters by risking a broken ez-out in the stud.


You MAY have to have it plasma burned out, then helicoil the hole.

Thanks for the reply...yes pretty much the same kit (Lisles made mine). I used a 8mm on it and hammered it on. Then turned it with a socket and it just stripped/slipped. hmmm I guess I need to go shopping for some professional lube. So you recommend no drilling?

tri5ron
01-11-2010, 09:14 PM
Originally posted by jayrodau
Thanks for the reply...yes pretty much the same kit (Lisles made mine). I used a 8mm on it and hammered it on. Then turned it with a socket and it just stripped/slipped. hmmm I guess I need to go shopping for some professional lube. So you recommend no drilling? First I would recommend trying the Acetone/ATF mix and let it sit overnight. then maybe a little vibration,(carefully applied with a air hammer), and then maybe some heat.
If you are not experienced AND skilled in working with fastener extraction via drilling and EZ-Outs, then I would suggest having someone who is experienced assist you.

The LAST thing you want to do is either drill off center, or break off an EZ-Out inside the drilled stud.
or even worse,...
BOTH.

This was usually the state and existing conditions that some of my old customers would have "screwed the pooch"on, before calling in me and my crew to save their A s$es, or junk a million+ dollar piece of equipment or component.

( have almost 30 years experience in Aircraft Repair, specializing in Structural Repair and Modifications)
Yeah, I've pulled a stuck or broken stud or two in my time,... lol

brewster426
01-11-2010, 10:55 PM
if you have access to a welder..weld a nut or a bot on the end of the stud. the weld wont stick to aluminum. that should do the trick

tri5ron
01-11-2010, 11:11 PM
Originally posted by brewster426
if you have access to a welder..weld a nut or a bot on the end of the stud. the weld wont stick to aluminum. that should do the trick This is also a very good method, but DO NOT have the acetone/atf on the stud prior to welding.
Wait for it to cool to near ambient temp BEFORE using the acetone mix.

wrekd
01-11-2010, 11:15 PM
Is there enough sticking out to get a pair of vise-grips or a small pipe wrench on it?? Thats how I got mine out. For the size EZ-Out you would use on that, it would break for sure. I have one stuck in a bolt that holds my front sprocket cover on. I have no clue how Im getting that thing out..lol

togup
01-12-2010, 03:47 AM
the ole welding trick works when all else fails the heat rapidly expands and contracts breaking it loose probably a little tricky if its still on the atv

atl_josh
01-12-2010, 05:13 AM
This happened to me during my rebuild. I got a zig wheel and put a slot in the bolt so that a flat head could fit and unscrewed it that way.. Also added penetrating oil.

IRISH-RACER-14
01-12-2010, 10:31 AM
it happend me on my 300ex. i broke the stud loosening it. i had to grind it down and drill a hole and tap a new thread. it was so annoying. i tried everything. i was scared that i would have to take off my head pipe

sc400ex_rider
01-12-2010, 01:01 PM
take it to a machine shop you will save money in the end. if you wallow out the hole much more the new stud wont hold. then you will have to fill, drill and tap it. (weld aluminum = money)

HY400EX
01-12-2010, 08:30 PM
Originally posted by jayrodau
I removed my headers to clean/polish them and one of my studs broke. I bought a stud extractor and had no luck. I am very confussed and upset looking for an answer. I want to get this fixed! Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.

Here is a pic:

I just fixed mine tonight. Mine was in the same spot as yours and about the same threads exposed.

1. Sprayed it with PB blaster a couple times and let it soak overnight. Tried to twist it out with vise grips. No go.

2. I tried to heat it with a torch and twist it out with vise grips. No go.

3. I heated it then froze it with some R12 freon. Put the vise grips on it to twist it out. No go.

4. I tried to weld a washer and nut on two times but both times the nut just twisted off. No go.

5. I took a grinder and a cutting wheel and cut off the three bottom fins on the head about an 1/8 inch ( will not hurt a thing )so the vise grips would lay flat not at an angle so I could get a good bite on the stud with the vise grips and twist. GOT THE DAMN THING OUT and drank a couple of Blues to celibrate.

Hope this helps.

Pipeless416
01-12-2010, 08:40 PM
i had a head stud that was stuck and the only thing i could do that removed it was to use a brass ball peen hammer and lightly tap the stud as i tried to turn it with vice grips. it was actually very easy using this method.

CJM
01-12-2010, 08:49 PM
Heating it up will only cause it to possibly weld itself to the engine. BTDT and heat only works if you apply a little, still not a good idea.

jayrodau
01-12-2010, 09:13 PM
Originally posted by HY400EX
I just fixed mine tonight. Mine was in the same spot as yours and about the same threads exposed.

1. Sprayed it with PB blaster a couple times and let it soak overnight. Tried to twist it out with vise grips. No go.

2. I tried to heat it with a torch and twist it out with vise grips. No go.

3. I heated it then froze it with some R12 freon. Put the vise grips on it to twist it out. No go.

4. I tried to weld a washer and nut on two times but both times the nut just twisted off. No go.

5. I took a grinder and a cutting wheel and cut off the three bottom fins on the head about an 1/8 inch ( will not hurt a thing )so the vise grips would lay flat not at an angle so I could get a good bite on the stud with the vise grips and twist. GOT THE DAMN THING OUT and drank a couple of Blues to celibrate.

Hope this helps.

Man I wish you lived close and could help. I don't have access to any tools like that. Then we could celebrate together. :cool:
I'm gonna spray PB Blaster on it for a week. Then drink a 12pack and get the damn thing out is the plan im thinking about going.

My friend suggested drilling a notch in the end and using a flathead screwdriver to get a turn on it.

CJM
01-12-2010, 09:20 PM
A grinder and cutting wheel can be had from walmart for like 20 bucks dude.

honda400ex2003
01-12-2010, 10:41 PM
if you heat it do the cylinder not the stud, the aluminum will expand more than the stud will and loosen it up. you would want to heat the cylinder and cool the stud with freon if you want to do it that way. otherwise try all of the above and hope or take it somewhere and get it fixed at a machine shop. steve

jayrodau
01-14-2010, 06:50 PM
I took my 400 to a old friends dads shop. He tried for about 3 hours to get the stud out. We even grinded my fins away a bit to get a byte with the visgrips. I wound up leaving it there he thinks we may have to take the cyclnder head out and take it to a machine shop. Sucks! I may possible have to get the hole redrilled in the end. It makes me sick thinking about it broken and no 400 to come home too. UGH

xjoedirt55x
01-14-2010, 07:09 PM
delete

jayrodau
01-14-2010, 07:12 PM
I sprayed it with PB Blaster all week and tapped on it with a hammer. We used a small torch to warm it up. I dont know what ill end up having to do to get the thing back to working condition.

wrekd
01-15-2010, 04:47 AM
Maybe try getting some of that putty weld stuff and put it around the stud, make some flat spots to put a wrench on it, let it dry overnight and see if you could get it off that way. Maybe put a few small notches or make some flat spots on the stud too to give the weld some more bite.

Just a thought...lol

extremetrucker
01-15-2010, 06:58 AM
as suggested before, penetrating oil for a day or 2, then weld a nut on with a mig or tig welder, dont be shy with it, BURN that farker on there, it wont stick to the aluminum, let it cool, completely and naturally, dont try to freeze it to cool it faster as you will make it brittle, the expansion and contraction of the stud will "stretch" the aluminum for lack of a better term and then carefully work it back and forth with a wrench, always works for me. thats how i get manifold bolts out of big trucks.

Rscarpantonio
01-15-2010, 07:25 AM
i had to do this before and i put a vice grip on it as tight as i could and heated the bolt up red hot and then got it out. try that if there is enough to grab

camaromitch
01-15-2010, 11:02 AM
+1 for welding a nut on. And yeah....Burn that mother in.