460ex stroker question

[musicman95]

I have a 99 400ex, and I want to stroke it out. Has anybody used the Hot Rods 460 stroker kit with the piston and crank in theirs? If so, is it pretty reliable. Also, how does it perform? Does it run too hot? Is there anything else I should know about while installing this?
Please someone give me some advice!!!

[wrekd]

Might want to post in the 400EX section. I know for sure there's one guy thats done it in there. But Im sure theres others also.

[mitchconley]

this is the 400ex section

[coreyownz]

i wouldnt imagine its real reliable but i do know you'd want a oversized oil tank bigger radiator and a spal fan to cool it IMO

[wrekd]

Originally posted by mitchconley
this is the 400ex section


It was in the open forum when I posted that...lol

[odog]

my 460ex has been reliable i love it but building it right is the key the power is good but if you want that bike to haul a upgraded carb is the key you shouldnt have any problem beating any stock bike or slightly modded bike (450s and 700s). but check out my sig. the fst oil cooler is a must and hd studs.

[togup]

this is some very helpful info from Mickey Dunlap I found on this sight.

On most 440 kits the sleeve will be hanging into the dowl pin area and you may need to grind the sleeve slightly so your dowl pins fit securely. Once you are re-installed the studs, then bore your cylinder to spec (which is usually .002 to .004 on most after-market pistons). One other thing to watch with the 440 sleeves is about 80% of the 400EX I have worked on the cylinder sleeve touches the cases where it goes down into the cases right in the back between the 2 case halves. A way to check for this, is to remove your dowl pins from the cases, set your cylinder down into the hole and try to move it front to back. It should have about .020 clearance front to back. If it doesn't, you will need to grind the cases to give it clearance. Otherwise, the cases will push into the cylinder sleeve and cause a hot spot at bottom dead center with your piston which will lead to your cylinder cracking or your piston scuffing - or both. A good way to keep the metal shavings out of your bottom end if you have to grind it is to stuff paper towels down around your rod and crank and then fill about 1" layer of spray foam insulation (Neat Stuff) on top of the paper towels. When you are done grinding, you can vaccum all the metal out, pull the insulation out and then the paper towels. I hope this helps you with your next big bore kit.

[musicman95]

thanks, does the same thing apply to the 460 kit as well?

[togup]

yes I have a 440 and a 460 when I built my 460 I did not cut my case opening joints down and that little bit pushed the bottom of my sleeve in enough to ruin my piston and sleeve. this is an important step to me now where it wasnt before. there will be those who will say 460 is not reliable but i blame human error for motors that fail