Blaster won't open up

[ukweasel]

Hello, I have a '95 blaster that I am working on for a friend. When I got it it ran like a dog. I disconnected the 3 connections that removes the tors, and it was doing better, but now it is acting very similar to what it was doing before. It feels like it just won't get on the pipe or like the spark plug is bad. The first thing I did when I got it a month or 2 ago was replace the plug and and clean the carb. Nothing, then I removed the tors and it was doing fine. But today I took it out and it was just a dog again. I even messed with the a/f screw and adjusted it 1/4 turns at a time to see if that would help and it did not. Does anyone have any other suggestions for places I should check, or what might be going on? I have not checked the reeds yet but I'm not so sure this sounds like a reed problem. The thing idles good and can putt around a parking lot no problem, but when you get on it it just seems like it's not all there. This bike is also completely bone stock. Thanks for any advice.

[jmracing]

Take main jet out and make sure it is completely clear of any debri. I have had this happen to me before, after soaking in carb cleaner blow out with compressor, do not force anything in the holes as this can damage jet.

[ukweasel]

Thanks for the reply, I will try this again, but thats the main thing I focused on when I cleaned the carb before, but yeah I will try that again. So if tors is removed, does that isolate the problem to the carburetor, and not spark or reeds? I'm not very experienced with 2 strokes, so I'm not sure what a reed problem would act like. And since there's no valves, I'm not real sure what a top end problem would be like since there's no adjusting up there.

[jmracing]

did it run fine when yoiu unplugged the torrs the first time? When you disconnected the torrs did you bypass the system(plug both wires going to throttle together)
Make sure that the needle clip is on middle setting and test and then adjust accordingly, when you go up on the clip you lean it out and if you go down it will richen the mixture. Check your sparkplug if it is wet when you shut it down you are running to rich. hope this helps let me know.

[ukweasel]

all i did before was unplug the wire that runs from the throttle to the black box, unplug the wire that plugs into that bulky thing above the carburetor, and unplug the actual black box under the front hood/plastic. it did run smooth throughout the entire powerband, but that was the only time i rode it was right after i unplugged everything in my backyard and i had limited distance to open it up. the weird thing is i can sit at an idle and pop the throttle and it will rev high just fine. its just when i go to get on it its like its not getting what it needs and just hits a wall and occasionaly you feel it start to catch but its for a like a half a second at a time. it does it the worst at a round 3rd and 4th gear, becuase sometimes it will pull smooth almost all the way through first, second gets sluggish, then after that is where it really hits a wall. thanks again for your help

[jmracing]

I would start with recleaning carb and jets. I use a gallon of the carb cleaner available at auto stores(you will have to remove all plastic and rubber pieces, they will fall apart if you leave them on) and then blow everything out with a compressor. I would also clean out peacock from tank to make sure there is no trash and check to see if there is a filter between tank and carb and replace it. It sounds like you are starving for fuel when you get going. Hope this helps

[ukweasel]

when my friend gave it to me to work on, he told me there was a problem with the bike and they put it up in the garage where it sat for a while. so there was a problem before it sat and gummed the carb up. i will definitely check the carb and petcock again just to be safe, but for now lets assume that they are clean. what are the symptoms of bad reeds or reed cage? i guess i should also check the carb boot and make sure it's not sucking air?

[jmracing]

only sure way to know if reeds are bad is to take them out and visually inspect for cracks or missing pieces. a good way to check for carb leaks or boot leaks is while motor is running spray carb cleaner around reed cage, boot, and carb body and if it affects the way the motor runs then you have found your leak. how much compression do you have it should be in the 90-120 psi range.

[ukweasel]

it's been a while, but I have a question. I bought a compression gauge. every time i kicked it over it only got 80 psi. my question is is it ok that i only put the gauge in finger tight? i checked to hear if i could hear any air hissing as it was being kicked, and after i kicked, the gauge held the air until i pressed the button to release it. if i gave it a pretty hard kick every time, and the gauge read almost right on the same mark every time, did I use it right, or well i possibly get a different result if i tighten the gauge in more? i didn't have any tools with me at the time which is why i didn't in the first place.

so if i can ride the bike right now, it just won't open up, will i more than likely just need to have the piston honed and put new rings in it? i know there's no way to know before i look inside it, but i was just curious what i might should expect. im pretty sure the oil pump is working btw. Thanks for the advice folks

[jmracing]

80psi is low I would start with new top end and go from there.

[allsmilez620]

hey its ok if you put it in finger tight as long as you dont hear a air leak . First you need to hold the throttle open ,then kick it a few times 3 or 4 hard then read the gauge then post the psi see if that helps