Racer Program install

[LTMFB]

Soooo...how hard and what is involved in installing the parts myself that come w/the 50" package? I know TNT said that the A-arms have to be pressed in...something that i can't do..but how hard is setting up the a-arms w/the adjustments, replacing the axle, ecu, etc....?

Just want to know if it's worth the $200+- to have the dealer do it.

TIA

[Racers Dad 37]

Guess the ?
1; would be do you think you can
2; how much is the dealer going to do for the $200
3; You should have them put the ecu ON and flash it with they BUDS software when you pickup your stage one kit
? did you get the 50" shock kit
if you have any ? I can help with PM me and I try to walk you thru it

[LTMFB]

pm sent! Thanks!

[Blizzard24]

Why do the a arms need to be pressed in?

[Racers Dad 37]

It not the A-arms it all the bearing and ball joints the 50" Can am racer support kit come with all new bearing and ball joints but they not installed. The A-arms all have needle bearing at all the mounting points not just bushing. Nice setup but bearing can be damage when installing into arms

[TNT]

Originally posted by LTMFB
Soooo...how hard and what is involved in installing the parts myself that come w/the 50" package? I know TNT said that the A-arms have to be pressed in...something that i can't do..but how hard is setting up the a-arms w/the adjustments, replacing the axle, ecu, etc....?

Just want to know if it's worth the $200+- to have the dealer do it.

TIA

I think you may have me confussed RD37....heres what he said in the other post. I never did this kit own a 09 so don't have much experience with it.


Originally posted by Racers Dad 37
Each Kit The Stage One, 50'' Kit, Stem and Shocks all come with good instructions Fallow them and you be alright. Only 3 thing I can think of that are hard at all
1 Getting the rear hub nuts off without a impact gun
2 Torqueing the Axle nut without the correct BRP tool
3 Grinding the upper frame for rear shock.
After doing my 1st one did 2nd ( a team mate ) from Stock to finish all kits in 16 hours.
Also when you get the Kits everything needs to be put together
Ball joints and all brg needed to be pressed in A-arms, Bearing Carrier brg. and saels, axle hub even the shocks are all apart. Take your time duel check everything torque and loctite it will pay off on race day

He's right technically you need to press the ball joint out with a ball joint installer but you can do this on your own after removing the circlip put the arm in a vise, use a big drift and steel plate on the ball joint bolt side put a socket around the ball joint on the other side to support the arm from bending get like a 5 lb sledge and hit it hard, use a torch to heat it up a little and break any lock tite seal.

The hub nuts are on like crazy from the factory where the torque is 5,000,000 ft lbs lol....you need a strong impact. We didn't need a tool for the axle nut. If you have to grind the frame for a shock come out here w/some pics it's simple.

All bearing installs go to the Can am site for the order here or RD37 and he/we will help, no press needed.

You should save your money and if anything get more tooled up and knowledgeable so this labor cost does not discourage you to quit or sell. If you ever start racing it you'll need the tools and know how or it any case it saves $ in the long run. Get a manual with the $200 that will help too and we're always here for more help. :D

PS: Hey Chris I thought a better question was whats a "B.U.T.T." system: ....I thought it was BUDDS!! LMAO! :eek2:

[Racers Dad 37]

TNT your correct BUDS software not butt
MY BAD

Shop Manual Section 07 Drive system page 279

Install axle nut
Using the rear axle key P/N 529 036 082 tighten axle nut to 23 ft. lb
CAUTION; It is very important to place the torque wrench perpendicularly with the special tool

[LTMFB]

So can I have them press the a-arms in when the parts come in and I'll do everything else? Do they need to be on the bike to be pressed in?

Sorry for the dumb questions, just never done a front end before....excited to try but scared to screw up a new bike! LOL

[Racers Dad 37]

LTMFB still some missed understanding PM me a E-Mail address and I will send you Instructions for the MX 50" Widening Kit after reading I think you have more understanding

P.S. TNT if you want a copy feel free to do the same.

[Racers Dad 37]

LTMFB E-Mail sent

[LTMFB]

Thanks!

[ATVHUNTER]

Originally posted by TNT
I think you may have me confussed RD37....heres what he said in the other post. I never did this kit own a 09 so don't have much experience with it.



He's right technically you need to press the ball joint out with a ball joint installer but you can do this on your own after removing the circlip put the arm in a vise, use a big drift and steel plate on the ball joint bolt side put a socket around the ball joint on the other side to support the arm from bending get like a 5 lb sledge and hit it hard, use a torch to heat it up a little and break any lock tite seal.

The hub nuts are on like crazy from the factory where the torque is 5,000,000 ft lbs lol....you need a strong impact. We didn't need a tool for the axle nut. If you have to grind the frame for a shock come out here w/some pics it's simple.

All bearing installs go to the Can am site for the order here or RD37 and he/we will help, no press needed.

You should save your money and if anything get more tooled up and knowledgeable so this labor cost does not discourage you to quit or sell. If you ever start racing it you'll need the tools and know how or it any case it saves $ in the long run. Get a manual with the $200 that will help too and we're always here for more help. :D

PS: Hey Chris I thought a better question was whats a "B.U.T.T." system: ....I thought it was BUDDS!! LMAO! :eek2:

like this also could I get the BRP tool number for a 5 lb Sledge

[LTMFB]

thread revival as my parts get closer to coming in....

can't i just use a c-clamp to press the bearings in...i know its old school but what would/could go wrong w/that approach?

1 Getting the rear hub nuts off without a impact gun -
what is the size of the socket?

2 Torqueing the Axle nut without the correct BRP tool
best way to do this???ideas!
3 Grinding the upper frame for rear shock.
Take your time duel check everything torque and loctite it will pay off on race day'
what color loctite?...does it specify in the instructions..i'm at work so i don't have them!

TIA

[HOBS DS450]

Socket size is 41MM

[nate450x]

To answer your questions, this is what i did:

To press the bearings in yes you can use a c-clamp and a socket that fits nicely against the bearing and fits inside the A-arm.

1. I used a 3/4" drive breaker bar with a 1 5/8" socket. To keep the axle from rotating i stuck a piece of box tubing on the other side in the hub and the other end against the ground. So to clarify if i was loosening the right side i had the tubing in the left hub. This worked great for me.

2. Unfortunately you have to use the tool on this. I had to borrow it from my dealer but i don't know how close you are with yours. I thought about using a strap style oil filter tool but it is not accurate enough! The strap will flex too much!

3.When you grind your frame it does not take very much to clear the shock. i probably only ground between an 1/8" to a 1/4" and it clears just fine.

The locktite i used was blue because you never know when you will have to remove or replace parts and the red is much harder to deal with when taking things back apart.

Just my two cents hope this helps!!!

[LTMFB]

thanks nate. I'll have to ask the dealer to borrow it when i go to pick up the parts! Should be fun!

[LTMFB]

Originally posted by nate450x
3.When you grind your frame it does not take very much to clear the shock. i probably only ground between an 1/8" to a 1/4" and it clears just fine. !!

So what part exactly are you grinding?

[nate450x]

If you place your shock in the upper frame mount you can see how close it is. If you move your shock back and forth you can see where it can hit the lower section of the frame that surrounds the shock. I just took off a little bit on each side (front and back) where there is already a slight notch and it fits great. Let me know if this helps and if not i will take a pic.

[LTMFB]

but what did you use to grind it?

[nate450x]

Oh, my bad!! I just used an aluminum carbide bit on an electric grinder and it did the trick. You can get the bit from Napa but im not sure of the price because I used my buddies!