Pipe Re-Packing

[bkelley]

I have never re-packed my pipe, so I figured it's probably time. I was just wondering what the best packing to use is and if I needed to know anything in particular before doing the re-pack. I saw that the prices range from basic $7 Lexx packing to the $37 FMF "space aged" material on Rocky Mountain. Is the higher price material really worth it? Or will the $7 Lexx stuff work fine? I'm assuming the more expensive stuff will last longer.

Oh, and like my sig says, I have a White Bros. E-Series pipe.

[F-16Guy]

It's really up to you how much you want to spend on packing material. I personally would probably buy two or three packages of the Tusk stuff. The E-Series is pretty big, and when I re-packed mine, I was a little short with one package of packing material.

To re-pack, you need to drill the heads off of the rivets at the base of the pipe (maybe both ends, I can't remember). I don't know the exact bit size, but you can use a bit slightly smaller than the head and carefully drill the head off. Then punch the shank down into the can and use the hole as a guide for the bit size for the rest of the rivets. Once you get the rivets off, pull the core out of the can, clean all of the old packing out and clean the holes in the core. Next, wrap packing the full length of the core thick enough that the wrapped core fits snugly into the can. Then reinsert the core into the body, using a little silicone gasket maker where the midpipe cap goes into the body so you don't have any leaks. Finally, secure with new pop rivets before the silicone cures. You can buy a pop rivet gun at most hardware and home improvement stores, or you can take it to a shop and see if they'll do it for you.

[bkelley]

Just something like this, right?

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=7356

And I could have sworn I saw somewhere that you don't need to drill out any of the rivets on the E-Series. Just have to remove the end cap and do it that way.

[F-16Guy]

I guess you could do it that way, but it would be a PITA to dig out all of the old packing and try to get the new stuff in there properly. You could give it a shot, I guess. And yes, that rivet gun would probably be fine. Make sure to check your midpipe weld for cracks.

[bkelley]

I gotta make a trip to Harbor Fright anyways to pick up a tire changer, so I might as well grab the gun and do it the right way.

[Pipeless416]

i prefer MSR silent sport packing. its string style, so you basically just stuff it in. its right in the middle as far as price, but i feel that its much easier, lasts longer, and makes it a touch quieter.

[tayyo789]

I prefer any type of string style packing over the other kinds. My HMF ran for 3 years without repacking and when I tore it apart, the strings were still good. I still replaced them, but it wasnt like any other pipe ive taken apart where the packing is virtually gone. If you want it to last I would go with string type for sure

[F-16Guy]

I haven't used anything but the wrap style packing, so the string type may be a good option, and it sounds like you can stuff it in without removing the core. I wouldn't worry too much about cleaning the core. Two-strokes used to get plugged up from the oil in the exhaust, but a four-stroke should be pretty clean assuming your jetting was close and it isn't billowing out blue smoke when you ride. Either way would probably be okay.

[Rkangel7]

Originally posted by bkelley
Just something like this, right?

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=7356

And I could have sworn I saw somewhere that you don't need to drill out any of the rivets on the E-Series. Just have to remove the end cap and do it that way.

I had to drill the rivets to take my e-series apart. I used that exact rivet gun in your link. It worked fine for me.

I recommend the string type packing. The regular mat type (the stuff that looks like insulation) did not last long at all in my e-series.

[honda400ex2003]

just for a bit of info to back up the string, i get the moose stuff and it works good for about 40 hours before it starts to get loud again. If you dont mind repacking every 40 hours or so it is not bad otherwise i would go with the string stuff. I will be going with it next time i decide to repack my t-4. just my .02 though. steve

[bkelley]

Originally posted by Rkangel7
I had to drill the rivets to take my e-series apart. I used that exact rivet gun in your link. It worked fine for me.

I recommend the string type packing. The regular mat type (the stuff that looks like insulation) did not last long at all in my e-series.
What size rivets are on the pipe? I'm gonna have to buy some of those, too.

[Rkangel7]

Originally posted by bkelley
What size rivets are on the pipe? I'm gonna have to buy some of those, too.

I want to say 3/16" (5mm) if I recall correctly. I used up all the rivets and don't have the package anymore to double check. The holes can widen out if the rivets have been drilled before, so it is probably a good idea to have a couple sizes on hand just in case.

Use stainless if you can find them. I used aluminum rivets during the last repack. They seemed to hold up fine for me, but some have said they can vibrate loose easier. On the other hand aluminum rivets are also easier to install...