[Project Thread] 04 400ex rebuild [Archive]

monkeydude36020

10-12-2009, 09:48 AM

Hey guys. This is my first post... Ive had my 400 for a couple years and its ran with burnt rings ever since I bought it, lol. Bout time to rebuild. Its loosing compression and with that goes the power, plus my neighbors are gettin pissed about the smoke.

I have plenty of experience working with engines on cars and trucks. I have a V8 S10 and a turbocharged pt cruiser, to give you guys an idea, so Ive kinda worked with it all. But this is the first actuall 4wheeler engine I have ever messed with. So far Ive completly tore down the top end and got it back together up to the valve cover (waiting on cam). I just have some questions to ask to make sure I havnt missed anything and donw miss anything when I finish re-assembling this thing and get ready to fire it up. First off heres the quad...

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t263/monkeydude3602000/000_0053.jpg

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t263/monkeydude3602000/000_0054.jpg

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t263/monkeydude3602000/000_0055.jpg

Its an 04. Engine was all stock, except for a stock rebuild about a year before I got it. It was flat tracked. When I bought it I took off the racin wheels to put stockers back on (so i could trail ride with it) and removed the sway bar. It has nerf bars, aftermarket bumper, aftermarket skid plate, complete lonestar rear end, front jt sproket, racing clutch (not sure what brand), and an hmf pipe. This quad ran awesom stock before the rings got bad, so I am anxious to see how she runs rebuilt with the hi comp piston.

Heres what shes gettin... 11-1 weisco forged piston, cam (not sure yet), new valve seals, new ngk plug, monster coil, rev box, k&n filter, carb (not sure yet) and thats about it for performance. Im looking to make this thing beat a kfx400 and I think im accomplishing that.

To make it look better, Im painting the beat up stock wheels, cleaning all the damn stickers off the plastics and buffing it all out, doing some mayjor cleaning, and some painting here and there, getting a taillamp, new headlight bulbs, chrome lug nuts, billit gas cap, new air shrouds (fender supports), new grips, ITP holeshots, and maybe a few other things...

And some other maintinence includes, fixing the front end play (bad spindles), new brake pads (front), complete rear end brake rebuild, new battery, and Im sure Im missing somethin :)

Ill start tryin to give you guys updates at least weekly on the progress... And I have plenty of questions, yall know alot more about this stuff than I do!

monkeydude36020

10-12-2009, 10:08 AM

Questions...

1. Im still not sure about the cam. I know I want better power and a better sound, but im cluless. It seems like only the stage 1 cams are good for stock bore pistons. Although Im raising compression, its stayin 85mm. Can I use a stage 2 cam with stock bore piston and benifit from it? Ive looked at the hotcams stage 1 and 2 cams. What would be reccomended for optimal performance on my quad.

2. For now can I use a stock jetted 400 carb? I really just want to get it running for now so i can break it in before the weather gets bad and maybe change some things on the carb or change the carb next summer. I was considering removing the choke from my 400 and changing the pilot jet for now. Should I change the main jets for the cam? Is it hard to do? Im a newb at carbs... Or is it worth it to just ditch the 400 carb and put a 450 carb on it? Ive heard alot about doing that.

3. Curtis Sparks Advanced Timing key - I didnt include this in the mod list cause Im unsure about it. From what I understand you can only use this with a stock piston right? I just want to make sure, cause if this is a mod that would benifit me I would like to do it cause its cheap and easy from what I can tell.

4. Timing - let me make sure Im doing it right. Line up the mark on the flywheel to the mark on the crank case through the little plug on top of the crank case. Then just line up the 3 marks on the cam gear with the middle one pointing straight up, right?

Thats all for now, I will have planty more before its over with.

matt14c

10-12-2009, 10:09 AM

If your rings were that bad your going to need a bore or hone at the very least. Im sure you knew that but it wasnt listed. I would recommend a stage one or stage two hot cam for your cam. If your on a budget I would get an 04-05 450r carb. If no budget look into the 39mm FCR carb. While it is apart grind the welds down on the inside of your head pipe will help improve the flow out of the head. You said your hubs have play in them that could be your front bearings may want to check those. Either that or your crown nut was loose. You also may want to replace your timing chain and tensioner. If you get an 02 I believe crf450 timing chain its the same length but thicker making it heavy duty at a fraction of the cost of the actuall HD timing chains specifically for the 400. From the pics you may want to look into some sprockets and possibly a chain or at the least clean and relube it.

Welcome to the site and good luck on the rebuild. On the top of the main 400 forum there is a most popular 400ex thread that could answer possibly alot of the questions you may have and if not either search or ask and im sure it can be answered.

matt14c

10-12-2009, 10:25 AM

1. Either of those cams would work well with stock. I think the stage 1 was for more mid to top end power and the stage 2 that has more mid power increases with a touch of to end help but not to much. So for trail and recreation riding I would go with stage 1 if I was you.

2. Stock 400 carb is fine for your setup. Just remove the carb and drain it. There is a little flat head screw at the bottom of the carb with a hose hanging from the bowl. Open the screw and it will drain most of it. Then there are 4 philips screws that hold the bowl on. Again looking at the bottom of the carb you will find both the pilot and main jet. You might not have to do much jetting depending what was done when the slip on was put on. You wont have to worry about jetting with the cam.

3. With a stock bore or even a 406 you will be able to run the sparks key with an 11:1 piston. Depending what your looking to do. I would run an 10:1. It will run cooler and you will definitly be able to run pump gas. With an 11:1 and the key you probably could to but it may be close.

4. For now you can use the side case holes make sure your turning it over the proper way. My cam sprockey only has two lines. I didnt think they changed anyhting over the years but I must be wrong. The one I have just line up the two lines so its even with the head. The flywheel then should then have the "T" mark lined up with the notch in the side cover. After the sparks key though if you do it then it changes im pretty sure. You will have to take a pencil or screw driver or something and put it in the cylinder through the plug hole until to the top then most people mark the flywheel for future use.

monkeydude36020

10-12-2009, 12:06 PM

Originally posted by matt14c
If your rings were that bad your going to need a bore or hone at the very least. Im sure you knew that but it wasnt listed. I would recommend a stage one or stage two hot cam for your cam. If your on a budget I would get an 04-05 450r carb. If no budget look into the 39mm FCR carb. While it is apart grind the welds down on the inside of your head pipe will help improve the flow out of the head. You said your hubs have play in them that could be your front bearings may want to check those. Either that or your crown nut was loose. You also may want to replace your timing chain and tensioner. If you get an 02 I believe crf450 timing chain its the same length but thicker making it heavy duty at a fraction of the cost of the actuall HD timing chains specifically for the 400. From the pics you may want to look into some sprockets and possibly a chain or at the least clean and relube it.

Welcome to the site and good luck on the rebuild. On the top of the main 400 forum there is a most popular 400ex thread that could answer possibly alot of the questions you may have and if not either search or ask and im sure it can be answered.

I had the jug honed and the valve seals installed in the head by my local honda shop... and for the front end... its the spindels, you can clearly see the tierod ends wobbling around in the spindle. I thought it was the tie rod ends themselves so i replaced them along with the tie rods that were bent, and theres still play. I was thinking about sleeving the spindles for the time beeing to resolve the play, I may buy new spindles later. And yes I was highly considering replacing that chain and sprockets, but I will probably wait until after the cold riding season is over (so I dont ruin a new chain with ice and snow).

monkeydude36020

10-12-2009, 12:13 PM

Originally posted by matt14c
1. Either of those cams would work well with stock. I think the stage 1 was for more mid to top end power and the stage 2 that has more mid power increases with a touch of to end help but not to much. So for trail and recreation riding I would go with stage 1 if I was you.

2. Stock 400 carb is fine for your setup. Just remove the carb and drain it. There is a little flat head screw at the bottom of the carb with a hose hanging from the bowl. Open the screw and it will drain most of it. Then there are 4 philips screws that hold the bowl on. Again looking at the bottom of the carb you will find both the pilot and main jet. You might not have to do much jetting depending what was done when the slip on was put on. You wont have to worry about jetting with the cam.

3. With a stock bore or even a 406 you will be able to run the sparks key with an 11:1 piston. Depending what your looking to do. I would run an 10:1. It will run cooler and you will definitly be able to run pump gas. With an 11:1 and the key you probably could to but it may be close.

4. For now you can use the side case holes make sure your turning it over the proper way. My cam sprockey only has two lines. I didnt think they changed anyhting over the years but I must be wrong. The one I have just line up the two lines so its even with the head. The flywheel then should then have the "T" mark lined up with the notch in the side cover. After the sparks key though if you do it then it changes im pretty sure. You will have to take a pencil or screw driver or something and put it in the cylinder through the plug hole until to the top then most people mark the flywheel for future use.

Im not sure if the carb was jetted with the slip on or not. Is there any way I can tell?

I have already installed the 11:1 so I cant really change that now. Is it going to make this thing less of a daily rider and more of a racign quad if I install the advanced timing key now? Thats realy not what Im going for and I really dont want to mess up the factory timing marks... :ermm: I just want more power, but it still needs to run on pump gas and be reliable.

monkeydude36020

10-12-2009, 12:25 PM

Heres some pics of the dis-assembly and the re-assembly so far...

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t263/monkeydude3602000/100_0421.jpg

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t263/monkeydude3602000/100_0423.jpg

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t263/monkeydude3602000/SDC12697.jpg

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t263/monkeydude3602000/SDC12700.jpg

Out with the old and in with the new...

Freshly honed jug
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t263/monkeydude3602000/100_0425.jpg

Cleaned up head, new valve seals, lapped valves
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t263/monkeydude3602000/HPIM0263.jpg

Weisco 11:1 ready to go in the ring compressor
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t263/monkeydude3602000/100_0426.jpg

New Gasket, ready for the jug
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t263/monkeydude3602000/100_0424.jpg

Jug/piston installed
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t263/monkeydude3602000/100_0427.jpg

And heres what it looks like rigth now
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t263/monkeydude3602000/100_0429.jpg

I cleaned all the gasket seats with some brake cleaner (since it doesnt leave residue). Everything went together nicly with Lucas Semi Synthetic Assembly Lube.

Heres a pic of what my wheels turned out like. It doesnt look pretty but its the look I was going for... flat black

Before
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t263/monkeydude3602000/HPIM0265.jpg

After
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t263/monkeydude3602000/HPIM0266.jpg

Sorry the pics are kinda blurry but my camera isnt very nice...

rob_990

10-12-2009, 04:19 PM

get a hot cam stage 2.i wouldnt do the key i took mine out when i rebuilt my motor.

monkeydude36020

10-12-2009, 10:11 PM

Ok guys well I guess Im going to go with the hotcams stage 2 cam then...

I have a HMF pip and its pretty damn loud. So I found this http://hmfracing.com/shop/parts/quiet-core/quiet-core It says something about rejetting when this silencer is installed. Is that even necessary? The only time I would ever use it is puttin around the house or in a sound restricted area, and I ride mostly on unrestricted private property, so I will hardly ever use this.

killer400ex

10-13-2009, 03:27 PM

the stage one is meant for more of a trail riding person, not someone who is racing as much, it is meant more for the lower rpm's where the stage two is really noticeable higher in the rpm's, its almost like v-tec. basically dont expect alot of bottom end power in 3rd gear and up, i mean it will still pull hard but once it hits probly around 4000-4500 rpms it takes off like a rocket, that is assuming you have it tuned right. mine will keep the wheels off the ground even through 5th gear, but thats flat out full throttle from 1st gear through 5th. and with me leaning on the gas tank, i also have mine geared for more top end since i was racing at the time and i would snap the throttle in 3rd and have the front end come straight up on me, but the mods you have listed are fine, i would personally go with a stage two because i dont put around on my wheeler, when im riding it im pushing it to its limit so i want every ounce of top end power

wrekd

10-13-2009, 09:07 PM

The only other thing I would suggest would be to take it back apart and send the jug out to get the GT Thunder HD head studs installed. With the high compression they have a tendency to pull out of the head and blow head gaskets. You might get away without them for awhile but eventually its gonna bite you. It only cost me about $120 to get em done. And that was sending it directly to GT Thunder. If you have a local machine shop you trust, you might get away with it a little cheaper even. IMO, its cheap insurance.

monkeydude36020

10-13-2009, 10:15 PM

Originally posted by wrekd
The only other thing I would suggest would be to take it back apart and send the jug out to get the GT Thunder HD head studs installed. With the high compression they have a tendency to pull out of the head and blow head gaskets. You might get away without them for awhile but eventually its gonna bite you. It only cost me about $120 to get em done. And that was sending it directly to GT Thunder. If you have a local machine shop you trust, you might get away with it a little cheaper even. IMO, its cheap insurance.

I had a few of my friends mention this to me when I started talking about rebuilding it. I figured I would at least give it a try on the stock studs and change them later on if needed... keep in mind, im not racing this quad. I will be doing mostly trail riding and likely only rev it out once or twice in a whole riding day, so hopefully it will be fine.

monkeydude36020

10-13-2009, 10:31 PM

Well I got my bonus early so Im ordering the cam now, I guess Im going to get the Hotcams S2. Sounds like the best bet, seems like it would be more fun in the straight streaches with more top end. And Ive nearly decided against the timing key, too much bad feedback on it. Sounds like I will end up with something not very (trail ridable).

I fixed my front end play today, yal are going to think Im an idiot. Seems the spindles are actually ok. The nuts on the tie rod ends werent tight. For some odd reason they loosened themselved up to the cotter pin on both sides. It just made it look like something was wore out. I took an impact to them and snugged them up and now there virtually no play at all in the steering... And wana see what I found in my calipers?

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t263/monkeydude3602000/100_0432.jpg

I also started grinding down the welds in my header. Im not quite sure what all to grind though. I got most of the little peices of stray welds, but what about the big hump that goes all the way around the inside of the header?

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t263/monkeydude3602000/100_0434.jpg

killer400ex

10-14-2009, 01:08 PM

grind it, its just an overdone weld that they dont grind down, wont hurt anything as long as you dont over do the grinding and go all the way through the weld

monkeydude36020

10-16-2009, 11:31 AM

Still waiting on the cam... Im getting impatient! Im ready to hear this thing run.

But for now I got the rest of the welds grinded down inside the header and cleaned and painted it. I used 2000*F duplicolor paint made for headers. I hope it holds up. Have you guys ever wrapped them? I was thinking about doing that too. Heres what it looks like right now.

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t263/monkeydude3602000/100_0436.jpg

I got my chrome red lugs in yesterday :)

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t263/monkeydude3602000/100_0435.jpg

I got a question... Excuse me from not knowign what this is... But the nut looking thing between the main part of the axle and the brake disk had a bunch of black tape wrapped around it. I took it off to see what was under it and I didnt see anything wrong. Is there any reason this would be there?

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t263/monkeydude3602000/100_0437.jpg

10-18-2009, 11:37 AM

tape was there to help keep the axle nut tight.where did you get those lugs?

BRAD6160

10-18-2009, 12:35 PM

and to keep dirt out of the threads so it will be easier to get the nut off!

monkeydude36020

10-19-2009, 11:37 AM

Originally posted by honda4life818
tape was there to help keep the axle nut tight.where did you get those lugs?

ebay

Shawthy33

10-19-2009, 12:58 PM

Those lug-nuts look awesome, I just got a set of black wheels, I might need to get some red ones. Throw up pics if you mount up your wheels soon

monkeydude36020

10-19-2009, 10:58 PM

Originally posted by Shawthy33
Those lug-nuts look awesome, I just got a set of black wheels, I might need to get some red ones. Throw up pics if you mount up your wheels soon

Ill have some pics soon...

monkeydude36020

10-19-2009, 11:00 PM

Originally posted by BRAD6160
and to keep dirt out of the threads so it will be easier to get the nut off!

lol the dirt was under the tape... they taped right over it

monkeydude36020

10-21-2009, 09:01 AM

Ok I guess I have something you could call progress, but with progress come more that has to be done! I got my new brake pads in and installed on the front. I had to unhook the lines and let the pressure out to get the pistons in so now my fluid is low and I can get the cap off to fill it up because of this...

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t263/monkeydude3602000/100_0439.jpg

I guess Im going to try to get ahold of some screw out or something, hopefully my dads got one.

Besides that, my 400 has blue eyes!

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t263/monkeydude3602000/100_0440.jpg

And I gota show off my helment. I got it off bikebandit.com on closeout for like $90 and looks awesom.

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t263/monkeydude3602000/100_0438.jpg

Still waiting on the cam :mad:

wykyd450R

10-21-2009, 02:22 PM

For the brake resevoir screws, find a nice sized phillips head screwdriver that fits in the head with no play, and tap it with a hammer , or while turning the screwdriver, and pressing down. You can also use a screwdriver that rotates when struck with a hammer, I think its called an impact driver. Pick em up for about 10 bucks. Great for carb screws too.

monkeydude36020

10-22-2009, 01:13 AM

The cam arived!

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t263/monkeydude3602000/100_0441.jpg

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t263/monkeydude3602000/100_0442.jpg

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t263/monkeydude3602000/100_0443.jpg

Its coming back together :)

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t263/monkeydude3602000/100_0446.jpg

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t263/monkeydude3602000/100_0447.jpg

New plug

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t263/monkeydude3602000/100_0445.jpg

Ok I have a few questions.

1. First off, When I installed the cam I got my timing marks all lined up but when looking at the cam gear from the side the mark at 3 o'clock is slightly below the mark at 9 o'clock. But if I move it one tooth it throws it way off. Is it ok? Its just really close, not dead on. Is this normal?

2. Theres 2 ways the cam will go on the cam gear. Either with the lobes pointing up or down. They are pointing down. Is this right? I turned the crank around a a few times and everything sounded ok, I just want to be sure.

3. I reused the stock valves and springs, will I need to adjust the valves or will they still be ok?

4. Whats the spark plug gap?

5. Below are 2 pics of 2 different hoses coming off the carb. Where the hell do they go? Lol I went blank on this one...

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t263/monkeydude3602000/100_0448.jpg

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t263/monkeydude3602000/100_0449.jpg

rob_990

10-22-2009, 07:44 AM

the lobes should be facing down and your gonna have to readjust your valves for the new cam

BRAD6160

10-22-2009, 11:51 AM

Yes you want the cam lobes facing down and the piston at TDC. The you will have to adjust your valves .005 intake .006 exhaust. The plug gap is between .024-.028. As far as the vent tube goes, after you put the plastic heat shield on (under the gas tank) there is a spot to put the tube in.

monkeydude36020

10-22-2009, 12:05 PM

Originally posted by BRAD6160
Yes you want the cam lobes facing down and the piston at TDC. The you will have to adjust your valves .005 intake .006 exhaust. The plug gap is between .024-.028. As far as the vent tube goes, after you put the plastic heat shield on (under the gas tank) there is a spot to put the tube in.

Ok thanks for the info... I was thinking one of the hoses was a vent and the other was a gas line, my bad there.

BRAD6160

10-22-2009, 12:08 PM

The two in to one tube goes into the hole in the heat shield. The other (kind of hard to see what it is) probably you fuel bowl drain tube.

bigbad400

10-22-2009, 12:18 PM

i only have one thing to say, with any cam or piston upgrade you should upgrade your valves and your springs, those springs are only set up for a 9.5:1 comp. piston. they will float if you bump the compression. also when you do a cam the durations on the springs and such change and your adding stress on the whole valve setup. the only reason im saying anything it cause i just did a rebuild because i didnt upgrade when i should have. 3 valves broke of and lodged into the piston. i think it was a stg 1 cam and a sparks key that did it, i failed to upgrade the valves and for that reason i now have a 440!!! but i have kibblewhite titanium valves and stiffer springs. and a stg 2 cam and no sparks key. i removed it for good when i did the rebuild.

i hope things turn out good for you. other than that you are doing fine on your rebuild, good job.

monkeydude36020

10-22-2009, 12:18 PM

Thanks

TRXRacer1

10-22-2009, 12:31 PM

Originally posted by bigbad400
i only have one thing to say, with any cam or piston upgrade you should upgrade your valves and your springs, those springs are only set up for a 9.5:1 comp. piston. they will float if you bump the compression. also when you do a cam the durations on the springs and such change and your adding stress on the whole valve setup. the only reason im saying anything it cause i just did a rebuild because i didnt upgrade when i should have. 3 valves broke of and lodged into the piston. i think it was a stg 1 cam and a sparks key that did it, i failed to upgrade the valves and for that reason i now have a 440!!! but i have kibblewhite titanium valves and stiffer springs. and a stg 2 cam and no sparks key. i removed it for good when i did the rebuild.

i hope things turn out good for you. other than that you are doing fine on your rebuild, good job. Everyone please ignore this advice! His issues had NOTHING to do with keeping the stock valvetrain. His argument that higher compression makes a difference should be erased from your memories. The stock springs are top notch all the way up to .370 lift. The highest lift cam Hotcams makes is only .358 so this is a completely pointless and unfounded way of thinking.

monkeydude36020

10-23-2009, 12:02 PM

Originally posted by TRXRacer1
Everyone please ignore this advice! His issues had NOTHING to do with keeping the stock valvetrain. His argument that higher compression makes a difference should be erased from your memories. The stock springs are top notch all the way up to .370 lift. The highest lift cam Hotcams makes is only .358 so this is a completely pointless and unfounded way of thinking.

To each has his own opinion. But although I am unexperienced with quads I know the quality of honda and I have plenty of friends with built quad engines on stock valvetrains. These things are built form the factory to withstand some serious raw hiding. I think with the kind of riding im doing, my valvetrain will be fine. Now if I was racing this quad then bigbad400's remarks may have been somewhat relevant, but remember guys, this is just a trail bike. I just wanted a little more power, and I really dont have the cash on hand to dish out for mods that I dont have to do. The only thing I might change later on after next summer is the timing chain and bigger studs. But Im about tapped out right now.

monkeydude36020

10-23-2009, 12:07 PM

Sorry no pics today guys :(

But I have some quick updates. I got my el-cheapo battery in today. I figure at least it will last me through the winter if I keep a trickle charger on it. When I really start riding next summer Ill get a good battery for it. Im still waiting on the scott grips I ordered and yesterday I ordered the AMR monster coil. Im about to order the shrouds that take place of the fender supports right now. Hopefully this weekend if I can get some time I will have this thing cleaned up and ready to start. Still got to get the plug in (I need the right plug socket) and adjust the valves (need a feeler guage)...

TRXRacer1

10-23-2009, 12:21 PM

Originally posted by monkeydude36020
To each has his own opinion. No opinions here, I laid out strait up facts! All kinds of people around here telling people to do work they don't need to do and it gets old. I do understand that people need to learn and start somewhere but maybe they should work that part out be for they post like they know what they're talking about.

Nice thread by the way, it's been interesting.

monkeydude36020

10-23-2009, 12:28 PM

Originally posted by TRXRacer1
No opinions here, I laid out strait up facts! All kinds of people around here telling people to do work they don't need to do and it gets old. I do understand that people need to learn and start somewhere but maybe they should work that part out be for they post like they know what they're talking about.

Nice thread by the way, it's been interesting.

thanks, glad you are enjoying it, hopefully soon ill have some wheelie vids :):):)

monkeydude36020

10-26-2009, 12:36 PM

No real progress but I got some new stuff to show off...

Got my scott grips and cheap-o battery :)

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t263/monkeydude3602000/100_0450.jpg

I also went by autozone and picked up a few things Im going to need to finish this thing up. 18mm deep well socket for the spark plug, cause I didnt have one... Feeler guage for adjusting valves, some various screw outs that will be needed, and a new peice of hose for the gas line (old one was rotted).

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t263/monkeydude3602000/100_0451.jpg

Maybe soon I will get time to work on this thing some more. Im in the process of moving out of my parents house and ive been working 7 days a week, so Im pretty busy. Im also still waiting on the dimond plate shrouds and AMR coil.

monkeydude36020

11-04-2009, 01:15 PM

I know its been a while since I have posted any progress... well here it is. I finally got off my lazy butt early enough to get this thing cleaned up and somewhat back together... Here it is cleaned with rims back on.

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t263/monkeydude3602000/100_0453.jpg

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t263/monkeydude3602000/100_0454.jpg

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t263/monkeydude3602000/100_0455.jpg

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t263/monkeydude3602000/100_0456.jpg

Found out I have a renthal sprocket after I cleaned all the mud off it...

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t263/monkeydude3602000/100_0457.jpg

Put the grips on.

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t263/monkeydude3602000/100_0461.jpg

Put the battery in.

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t263/monkeydude3602000/100_0462.jpg

Got some more parts...

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t263/monkeydude3602000/100_0458.jpg

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t263/monkeydude3602000/100_0459.jpg

Coil installed.

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t263/monkeydude3602000/100_0460.jpg

One final pic trying to be back in one piece!

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t263/monkeydude3602000/100_0463.jpg

Ohh yeah and that gsx600 sittin there is the next project :)

It will be runnin soon. Ill get a vid on the first start up.

monkeydude36020

11-06-2009, 11:56 AM

I adjusted the valves today, installed the fender supports/shrouds, cleaned and put my hmf pipe back on and ordered a hmf quiet core (for noise restricted areas). Im hoping to have it running by tomarrow. All I need to do it put the oil and filter in it and run to town to get some 93 oct.

monkeydude36020

11-17-2009, 12:55 PM

Just a small update... I got my hmf quiet core in. Quad still not running, Im abot to give up :mad:

Ryanwolfe911

11-17-2009, 03:29 PM

Muzzgit

11-18-2009, 05:44 AM

Excuse me if someone else has mentioned it, I did skip a few replies. Aren't they the wrong wheel nuts?

In the photo they look tapered!

monkeydude36020

11-18-2009, 12:47 PM

they are tappered... the regular ones kept backing out.

monkeydude36020

11-26-2009, 11:50 AM

Finally, it runs and its back in one peice! Heres some pics...

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t263/monkeydude3602000/100_0467.jpg

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t263/monkeydude3602000/100_0468.jpg

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t263/monkeydude3602000/100_0469.jpg

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t263/monkeydude3602000/100_0470.jpg

And a cold startup...

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t263/monkeydude3602000/th_100_0471.jpg (http://s162.photobucket.com/albums/t263/monkeydude3602000/?action=view&current=100_0471.flv)

I havnt had a chance to break it in properly yet, my brakes still arent working and ive got a oil leak I need to fix. I did give it a quick ride around the yard though. I would have posted a vid but I was too lazy to go in and get my helment... sorry. But as soon as I actually get all the kinks worked out I will get the promised wheelie vids!