retard timing? MAYBE!

[bob gnarl]

Im trying to figure out if my timing is too advanced! Ive got a serious case of the KICKBACK BLUES! its seems to me to be the most logical reason at this point!I just had the bike rebuilt from a mechanic that i have never used before so i dont know if he has it to advance or not? Its a drag ported cylinder, its bored over to 67.5mm, im running 50/50 mix. Im not sure what my compression is(feels like a sh*t ton!) But do you guys think that i could just retard the timing a touch just to get the kick start back to normal? Cause as it stands right now this bikes starter has taken out 3 grown men!LOL! But would it be possible to retard the timing just a hair or am i screwed? Thanks guys

[Honda 250r 001]

somethings wrong... and its not the timing, maybe pre ignition because of low octane.

also i dropped my spark plug once and it closed the gap to nothing and it kicked back like a mofo for some reason.

try that along with a compression check.

[bob gnarl]

It fires off! dont get me wrong. im just wondering if its cool to retard the timing just a touch to make my life easier on the kick start? what does advancing the timing do anyway? give you more top end? better throttle response? My bike has a enough power all the way thru that i would be willing to give a little bit of up for a easier kick start. thanks

[machwon]

Stock 250r ignitions normally can't change the timing. The CR ignition will have a lot less advance off idle. Retarding the timing will lose power across the whole rpm range. I'd give your fresh motor 3 or 4 rides and then decide, it should get easier as it breaks in. Most people bring the piston to tdc with the kicker, then bring the kicker to the top and kick with all your weight. The harder you kick the less it will hurt.

[Jason Hall]

Here Is a suggestion as to what could be causing your problem. I doubt It's a timing problem, because you said It was just rebuilt. When some people assemble a 2 stroke, they use 2 stroke oil on the rings, and end up with alot of excess oil In the bottom of the cases. What could be happening Is the extra 2 stroke oil Is sealing the rings so tight, that It Is kicking back HARD against your foot. I would ride the bike around for a while to burn off the extra oil/break In the piston and see If that cure's your trouble. I use 2 stroke oil on the wrist pin bearing & the crank bearing's, then WD/40 for the cylinder & piston.

[bob gnarl]

yeah its got the cr 250 ignition and only got maybe 6 gallons of gas thru it so its really fresh! I kinda was hoping that it would get better and it kinda has. I know when i first got the bike before i blew it up i could pump the kicker 2 or 3 times and that son of a ***** would pop right off! Then i had to go and blow it up and rebuild. The mechanic that put my motor back together(first time ive used him) said that he has never seen my whole setup before apparently. Its got no electricals and its just a billet button down there in the case and he said he has never seen the ignition setup cause he has no key drive or something like that i just told him fired up awesome and ran great before i blew it up! But since he told me that i was kind of worried/wondering if you guys would of thought that it would be a timing degree issue. It is getting a little easier though as time goes on! it just gets really loaded up too sometimes i just bump start after my foot cant handle it anymore and a HUGE puff of white smoke comes out of the exhaust. My plug readings are good though so far im just not sure if my pilot jet or air screw needs to be adjusted so i dont get it so loaded up IDK! Its a ***** though trying to dial these things in especially whren you can even start it!!:tired:

[machwon]

It's had a good break in with 6 gallons, so no getting easier there. The CR ignitions are keyed to the crank but pvl's ignitions are not. If he's never seen that type of ignition and its not keyed it could be a pvl ignition. Those ignition timings are set with a dial indicator, which if you have one, it sounds like he might not have known.

[bob gnarl]

how would i know if i have a pvl ignition? and if i do would it be the analog pvl ignition? cause from what i read on their site you have to use a diffent spark plug. Use a with non resistor spark plug. It says to use a NGK V or VX for short reach or if your bike requires a long reach type plugs to use a NGK EV or EVX. And it also says"Do not use the G, GV, or S (standard) series type NGK plugs, as these type plugs require more of the ignition’s current to make the spark and will cause starting difficulties or no starting at all." Are those letters the last letters on a plug cause i started out running a BR8ES and now im using a B8ES so i wonder if that could be a the starting problem?

[mxduner]

that br8es is a resisitor type, yea switch to the b8es, and then see

[trx310R#24]

iv had many bikes that dont like to start with resisitor plugs. they kick back real hard an stuff.. on the cr flywheel theres timeing setting if i remember correctly.

[machwon]

The cr ignition will have a smaller external flywheel. The PVL will have a small internal flywheel. A flywheel inside of the stator coils. You will need the long plugs, not the short ones.

[SuperSherman]

You know you have a PVL if it has a small alluminum rotor(instead of a flywheel) and says PVL on it. Look at the wires coming out of the stator, if it goes to the coil and then to the plug, it's analog and set the timing at 50 thousandths BTDC, If it has another device it plugs into that goes to the coil, it's digital. Set that at half what the analog one want's.

[bob gnarl]

Right on man! thanks ill check that out i think it might be a pvl from the sounds of it cause the guy i bought it from and the guy who wrked on it said it had a little billet button in there instead of the flywheel! thanks