400ex to a 416. NEED ANSWERS

[bodfper]

I am looking at boring my 400ex to a 416 for some extra Horsepower. I want to do the 10:1 87mm wiseco, stage 2 hotcams, port and polish, 450r carb, hd head studs, hd timing chain, secondary oil cooler and a rev box.

How much does a mild P+P cost and do i need bigger valves?

Does this sound like a reliable build?

Are the hd studs a must?

Does the year of the 450r carb matter?

ps- I have a 99 400ex with a k&n w/ prefilter, DMC dual exhaust, works front shocks and thats about it.

[TRXRacer1]

Wow dude, you didn't even try to search did you?

[honda400ex2003]

i like my setup. the port and polishes run about 150 give or take 50 depending. they are really reliable as long as they are taken care of and jetted correctly. hd studs are not needed with the 10:1 setup you will be running. the 450 carb year does matter i think the 04 one is most widely used but i would read up on the sticky at the top of the page. dont mind trx he is like this to everyone. the only thing i may suggest depending is the stage 1 cam instead of the stage 2 but it depends on where you want your power to be. more mid and top is def the stage 2 more low and mid then stage 1 would be better. steve

[coreo5]

p & p the head does NOT mean you have to get bigger valves. i would recommend it. then again who are you to listen to me?

[bodfper]

What will bigger valves do for me with the p + p and how do you do it? How much will it cost and what size valves do i need and do i replace exhaust and intake?

[F-16Guy]

With a mild build like yours, head work is a waste of money. Save it for suspension or something else more beneficial. The head on the 400ex flows pretty well, and you risk losing power if someone that doesn't know what they're doing gets a hold of it.

With a stage 2 cam, I'd go with an 11:1 piston. A longer duration cam allows less time for the piston to build pressure during the compression stroke, so the dynamic compression ratio will be lower. You can offset that by increasing the compression ratio. With a stage 2 cam and 11:1, you should be able to run premium pump fuel with no problems.

I would never put any kind of high compression piston in a 400ex without studs. You might be able to get by without them with 10:1, but if you do the studs, you'll never have to worry about it.

You need the 04-05 450r carb.

Make sure you get a CRF450R (any year) timing chain. It's what other places call their "HD" chain, but for about half the price. You can get it at servicehonda.com.

You're also going to need jets. Read the sticky about 450r carb jetting at the top of this board. You can get jets at jetsrus.com

[Bill Martin]

Hey guy's I'm new to this forum and it looks like there are a few of you that have been running the 400ex for awhile so I have a few questions you could chime in on.

I have a 07 ex that has had:
Head ported & polished
Board to a 416
12-1 piston
Stage 2 hot cam
W/B MX4 slip on pipe
Chock plate and bar out of the carb.
Over sized aluminum oil tank.

That made a fairly good increase in HP's after break in.

I am going to do the head pipe and carb next.

The pipe will be made by a professional so it will be right.

To my questions:

What brand and type of carb to go with.

What's the cheapest?

What's the best?

What do you use and why?

Were you satisfied?


Thanks guy's you have a great site here and I'm glad I found it.


PS What fuel should I run?

I've been useing U-4.2: Yes-No?

[TRXRacer1]

Originally posted by Bill Martin
Hey guy's I'm new to this forum and it looks like there are a few of you that have been running the 400ex for awhile so I have a few questions you could chime in on.

I have a 07 ex that has had:
Head ported & polished
Board to a 416
12-1 piston
Stage 2 hot cam
W/B MX4 slip on pipe
Chock plate and bar out of the carb.
Over sized aluminum oil tank.

That made a fairly good increase in HP's after break in.

I am going to do the head pipe and carb next.

The pipe will be made by a professional so it will be right.

To my questions:

What brand and type of carb to go with.

What's the cheapest?

What's the best?

What do you use and why?

Were you satisfied?


Thanks guy's you have a great site here and I'm glad I found it.


PS What fuel should I run?

I've been useing U-4.2: Yes-No? Bill you seem like a nice guy but you seem new to the internet. I'd suggest 2 things. 1 maybe start your own thread instead of hijacking someone else's. 2 there's a search feature for this place that works wonders, might want to try it out while waiting for answers.

[Bill Martin]

Sorry but I am not trying to hijack this thread; I merely came across this thread and since it beard on a similar topic I butted in.

My bad!!!!

I'll just sit back and see what happens.

[buster024]

Dude....Trx.....lay off people. Know one likes a know it all.

Anyway Bill, all of your carb questions will be answered in the first thread on the main page. The Honda 450r carb upgrade is clearly the carb of choice around here (thanks Tri5ron). Click here for the answers to your carb questions. (http://exriders.com/vbb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=410964)


....and welcome to the site. Don't be afraid to ask about the best exhaust either!!:devil:

[F-16Guy]

Originally posted by buster024
...Don't be afraid to ask about the best exhaust either!!:devil:
If someone starts a "What's the best exhaust for a 400ex" thread, the server automatically bans their IP address. :muscle:

[TRXRacer1]

Originally posted by buster024
Dude....Trx.....lay off people. Know one likes a know it all. That doesn't even make sense. A "know it all"? If you want to jump on me for speaking the truth you could have said it a million better ways.

[honda400ex2003]

Originally posted by buster024
Dude....Trx.....lay off people.


agreed!!! i know i get tired of reading posts that you roast people who are new to the site or something and just want to know. they may not have time to search through the 50 pages of crap that comes up while searching most of the time. steve

[rocky_mtn_honda]

Originally posted by bodfper
I am looking at boring my 400ex to a 416 for some extra Horsepower. I want to do the 10:1 87mm wiseco, stage 2 hotcams, port and polish, 450r carb, hd head studs, hd timing chain, secondary oil cooler and a rev box.

How much does a mild P+P cost and do i need bigger valves?

Does this sound like a reliable build?

Are the hd studs a must?

Does the year of the 450r carb matter?

ps- I have a 99 400ex with a k&n w/ prefilter, DMC dual exhaust, works front shocks and thats about it.

im confused...an 87mm piston only up's your displacement by 10cc's...so im guessing this would be a 407, not a 416
someone please correct me if i'm wrong

[TRXRacer1]

Originally posted by honda400ex2003
agreed!!! i know i get tired of reading posts that you roast people who are new to the site or something and just want to know. they may not have time to search through the 50 pages of crap that comes up while searching most of the time. steve Steve, if this was true then I would feel bad but if you check my posts, I barely ever "roast" newbies. Sure I've told a few to use the search feature lately but It's more people like you that kick out some really bad advice from time to time. The biggest difference between you and me (other then real world experience) is that if you call me out when I'm wrong I apologize. The fact is there is some real poor info that gets bounced around here like it's fact. I think what we have here is a big case of mass internet confusion. You get enough people to read crap and agree on crap without knowing crap, then we have a big pile of crap. Opps, this isn't a roasting is it?

By the way you did a much better job then buster, to bad it was just more crap.

[TRXRacer1]

Originally posted by rocky_mtn_honda
im confused...an 87mm piston only up's your displacement by 10cc's...so im guessing this would be a 407, not a 416
someone please correct me if i'm wrong 87mm is a 19cc increase.

[rocky_mtn_honda]

Originally posted by TRXRacer1
87mm is a 19cc increase.

according to wiseco's website...it's a 10 cc increase
4606M08700 $181.87 87.00mm 2.00 Compression Ratio - Actual: 10:1
Displacement: 407cc
Stroke: 70.00mm

[TRXRacer1]

Originally posted by rocky_mtn_honda
according to wiseco's website...it's a 10 cc increase
4606M08700 $181.87 87.00mm 2.00 Compression Ratio - Actual: 10:1
Displacement: 407cc
Stroke: 70.00mm Math would tell otherwise. What do they list for 4606M0860?

[Bill Martin]

Originally posted by TRXRacer1
Bill you seem like a nice guy but you seem new to the internet. I'd suggest 2 things. 1 maybe start your own thread instead of hijacking someone else's. 2 there's a search feature for this place that works wonders, might want to try it out while waiting for answers.

If you are referring to me and my post I'll tell you this.
First of all this a public forum and I can post when and where I want.
Secondly this is not even your thread so what’s it to you?
Steve is right I don’t have the time to sit and go through all the post on this forum and the thread was on a similar topic.
I was very polite in my FIRST post on this forum only to be corrected by you TRX racer1: thanks for the not so friendly introduction to this forum.
I hope you don't reflect the majority of the people on here, in fact I'm sure you don't.
We get enough grief from the motorcycle riders out there to be getting it from each other.

Thanks Steve for speaking up I won’t let the actions of one discourage me from enjoying this forum.

Take Care!!!!

[TRXRacer1]

Originally posted by TRXRacer1
Steve, if this was true then I would feel bad but if you check my posts, I barely ever "roast" newbies. Sure I've told a few to use the search feature lately but It's more people like you that kick out some really bad advice from time to time. The biggest difference between you and me (other then real world experience) is that if you call me out when I'm wrong I apologize. The fact is there is some real poor info that gets bounced around here like it's fact. I think what we have here is a big case of mass internet confusion. You get enough people to read crap and agree on crap without knowing crap, then we have a big pile of crap. Opps, this isn't a roasting is it?

By the way you did a much better job then buster, to bad it was just more crap. Steve, I saw the goofy pic you have for a an avatar and thought you were someone else. Sorry about the bad advice thing. You're usually pretty solid. For the rest I sill stand behind it.

[rocky_mtn_honda]

Originally posted by TRXRacer1
Math would tell otherwise. What do they list for 4606M0860?

4606M08600 $165.32 86.00mm 1.00 Compression Ratio - Actual: 10:1
Displacement: 402cc
Stroke: 70.00mm
Notes: Cylinder boring required, Cylinder sleeving required

[honda400ex2003]

edit apology accepted on that part thank you trx. but still you could ease up a bit on people you get pretty harsh. how do you know how much real world experience i have by chance? I am no more or less solid than you are. Also I appologize for commenting on your thread, Bodfper, this is a bit off topic from what you are looking for in a 440 question thread. lol. steve

[TRXRacer1]

Originally posted by Bill Martin
If you are referring to me and my post I'll tell you this.
First of all this a public forum and I can post when and where I want.
Secondly this is not even your thread so what’s it to you?
Steve is right I don’t have the time to sit and go through all the post on this forum and the thread was on a similar topic.
I was very polite in my FIRST post on this forum only to be corrected by you TRX racer1: thanks for the not so friendly introduction to this forum.
I hope you don't reflect the majority of the people on here, in fact I'm sure you don't.
We get enough grief from the motorcycle riders out there to be getting it from each other.

Thanks Steve for speaking up I won’t let the actions of one discourage me from enjoying this forum.

Take Care!!!! Are you asking if I was referring to you Bill when I said Bill? We got another one here people! I'm sorry Bill, yes I was referring to you but being called Bill your whole life I thought you would have caught on to that right away. To answer your question to why do I care if you hijack someone's thread (apparently in a polite way as you say) it's because it's rude no matter who it's done to.

[TRXRacer1]

Originally posted by rocky_mtn_honda
4606M08600 $165.32 86.00mm 1.00 Compression Ratio - Actual: 10:1
Displacement: 402cc
Stroke: 70.00mm
Notes: Cylinder boring required, Cylinder sleeving required They're all messed up. 402cc is for an 85.5mm piston.

Here's the whole list:

397 85mm
402 85.5mm
407 86mm
416 87mm
426 88mm
431 88.5mm
435 89mm

[rocky_mtn_honda]

i know...i was like, i'm pretty sure you don't need to resleeve until you go over 88mm...so i thought maybe the info was bad

[TRXRacer1]

Originally posted by honda400ex2003
edit apology accepted on that part thank you trx. but still you could ease up a bit on people you get pretty harsh. how do you know how much real world experience i have by chance? I am no more or less solid than you are. Also I appologize for commenting on your thread, Bodfper, this is a bit off topic from what you are looking for in a 440 question thread. lol. steve Sorry Steve, meant to add that into the apology. I have no reason to think you have no experience and I would guess the opposite. Totally attacked you out of complete confusion. That could be a sign on my end.:uhoh: But I still stick to the rest, the part not involving you, lol.

Bodfper, I hope you don't think this is how things usually are. There's a good group here for the most part and I apologize for apparently starting some drama.:ermm:

[honda400ex2003]

Thank you and agreed this is not how it usually is. steve

[bodfper]

So does anyone else agree that a p+p is a waste of money? I think i changed my mind on the hotcam, i think im going to go with a stage 1. I dont think i want to go with an 11:1, but are the HD studs a good idea for reliability? Also, any advice on the secondary oil cooler?

[buster024]

Don't you love it, when you inadvertently misspell a word when you are trying to make a point......the point always get's lost in the spelling error.

Anyway, no hurt feelers, or trash talking.....just a reminder that even new members need help, and I don't think "hijacking" an occasional thread with "noob" questions is all that bad.
Chad-

[F-16Guy]

Originally posted by bodfper
So does anyone else agree that a p+p is a waste of money? I think i changed my mind on the hotcam, i think im going to go with a stage 1. I dont think i want to go with an 11:1, but are the HD studs a good idea for reliability? Also, any advice on the secondary oil cooler?
The stage 1 is a great cam. I really like the power delivery, and I saw gains across the board, not just low-to-mid. Either stage 1 or 2 are good choices, but stage 1 would be better for a 10:1 CR piston since it has higher lift and shorter duration, which allows for a little higher cylinder pressures.

It's debatable whether studs are really necessary with lower compression builds, but if you have the money, it's good insurance. If you have them out for the bore and put the stock ones back in, just make sure that they're installed properly. I think GT Thunder uses sleeve retaining compound to lock their studs in. That might not be a bad idea for the stockers, too, if you re-use them.

A secondary cooler is also one of those "nice to have" things, but depending on the route you go, there is additional cost and labor involved. I have one of the FST-style secondary coolers, and I think it's made a pretty big difference in operating temps. To be quite honest, though, proper jetting will do more for engine cooling than a secondary cooler on a poorly jetted engine. With a mild build like what you want, just make sure you're jetted properly, and you shouldn't have any overheating issues.

[bodfper]

well ill get back to you on the jetting because I think im going to get a 450r carb if i can get it for the right price. Do you have any advice on jetting or references? Another thing on the secondary oil cooler will you see if the one i am looking at is a good deal........heres the url http://www.fourstroketech.net/ if its not can you refer me to a place that has a good one? Thanks for all of your help its greatly appreciated.

[F-16Guy]

How about this:
http://www.jegs.com/i/Perma-Cool/771/1008/10002/-1

Same kit, you just have to make your own grill. It's the kit that I have, and it works perfectly. You can make a grill out of expanded steel or perforated aluminum from Lowes/Home Depot. I cut the expanded steel to fit between the front frame tubes and zip tied it on. I then mounted the cooler to the grill using a $5 universal trans cooler mount kit from Auto Zone.

[chrisrzz1012]

What I heard from a very good friend is that the 416cc is the only way to go for a 400ex why any bigger cc's you have a tendency of blowing a motor. Because the cylinder wall gets very thin. I thought about doing a big bore on my racer that I'm building but won't do that now.





2003 Honda 400ex -stock
2002 Honda 400ex - modded
2003/2002 Honda 400ex/r racer- building

[bodfper]

I talked to the guy that I might have bore my cylinder and he says that i should not bore it to a 87 but to like a 85.5. What do you guys think about this? I know I am wasting some bores but I only plan to do it once because I want to build it as reliable as possible. Tell me what you think.

On the Perma-Cool oil cooler is there step by step directions and could you take pictures of how yours is hooked up? THANKS

[rocky_mtn_honda]

they always tell you that...they just wanna slap a hone job on it and tell you to get some new rings and call it good...i never did understand this
if you know your wasting a few bores, and dont give a crap, who are they to care...they make more $ for anything over .040 anyhow
i'd say tell him it's what you want, because its the particular displacement your looking for
then he'll say...o.k. $75 please :eek2:

[honda400ex2003]

it depends on what you want. if a 416 then bore it to 87. if not about an 405 with the 85.5. that is just a small bore on the cylinder with a stock oversize ring on a stock piston size. it all depends on what you want to do. i dont know where some of these machine shops get off telling what they will do. it should be what you want to do, you are paying them for the work. I have been hearing this more and more with shops not wanting to do work on with different parts and using aftermarket. anyway, if you want a new piston buy one and get oversize rings for the 85 mm and you should be set. this way you can increase comp if you want. get a gasket kit and you can put it back together. also while it is apart i suggest doing the valve seals since they are notorius for wearing out. steve

[F-16Guy]

Originally posted by bodfper
I talked to the guy that I might have bore my cylinder and he says that i should not bore it to a 87 but to like a 85.5. What do you guys think about this? I know I am wasting some bores but I only plan to do it once because I want to build it as reliable as possible. Tell me what you think.

On the Perma-Cool oil cooler is there step by step directions and could you take pictures of how yours is hooked up? THANKS
If the bore can be cleaned up by going to 86mm, then there's no reason not to. It would be difficult, if not impossible, to tell the difference in power, so it makes sense to keep as much material as possible. I built a 406 for a friend and it ran great.

There are some pics on here of my setup. Search for *oil cooler, *fst cooler, or secondary cooler. Use the "*" with any search word with less than four letters or the search engine will kick it back.

A step by step article can be found here:
http://atv.off-road.com/atv/article/articleDetail.jsp?id=191530

There is a link to another more detailed article that you'll probably find when you search for the cooler threads.

[TRXRacer1]

Originally posted by bodfper
So does anyone else agree that a p+p is a waste of money? I agree with Mickey Dunlap:

"You won't see a difference until you get into a 440 engine or bigger going to a big valve head"

As to your 87mm or 85.5mm, ask yourself how much of a difference a few cc's will make. Chances are not much. On the other hand sleeves are cheap and the little extra hp has been worth it for me. Do a 407 at minimum.

[dariusld]

Originally posted by TRXRacer1
I agree with Mickey Dunlap:

"You won't see a difference until you get into a 440 engine or bigger going to a big valve head"



Port and Polish is different then a "big valve head". Maybe I missed something in the thread.


As long as were quoting Mickey "If you run in the higher RPM's and have a bigger carberator then the big valve head will benefit greatly"

[bodfper]

If I decide to go to the 407 which is the 86mm, should I do a port and polish? Also what are the details that I need to have the guy do? Do I need bigger valves? Like I said I have never done any of this before. Another thing is how much more horse power should I expect going from a 85mm to a 86mm? Is it worth the bore or should I put a stock piston and rings in? And if i do this what things should i do to make it faster?

[TRXRacer1]

Originally posted by dariusld
Maybe I missed something in the thread.
You did miss it. Question was whether or not a P&P was worth it. Mickey said no. "You won't see a difference until you get into a 440 engine or bigger going to a big valve head". bodpher has not mentioned doing either mod. I'd have to agree it would be a waste in his case.

[TRXRacer1]

Originally posted by bodfper
If I decide to go to the 407 which is the 86mm, should I do a port and polish? Also what are the details that I need to have the guy do? Do I need bigger valves? Like I said I have never done any of this before. Another thing is how much more horse power should I expect going from a 85mm to a 86mm? Is it worth the bore or should I put a stock piston and rings in? And if i do this what things should i do to make it faster? No Port and polish, no bigger valves. Unless you're looking to make either a high RPM monster or a 440 then you're basically wasting your money. This motor flows really well as Mickey was getting at. Save your money. Most people that think it was a good upgrade had other work done at the same time and have no idea of the effects of the port and polish alone. Stock piston and rings is only an option if your cylinder is in like new condition. It probably is not so get it bored.

[dariusld]

Originally posted by bodfper
I am looking at boring my 400ex to a 416 for some extra Horsepower. I want to do the 10:1 87mm wiseco, stage 2 hotcams, port and polish, 450r carb, hd head studs, hd timing chain, secondary oil cooler and a rev box.

How much does a mild P+P cost and do i need bigger valves?

Does this sound like a reliable build?

Are the hd studs a must?

Does the year of the 450r carb matter?

ps- I have a 99 400ex with a k&n w/ prefilter, DMC dual exhaust, works front shocks and thats about it.

This is his intial post. Did you not read that? Or my response to your post?

[TRXRacer1]

Originally posted by dariusld
This is his intial post. Did you not read that? Or my response to your post? I've read both, neither indicate anything relevant to necessitate a port and polish.

[dariusld]

I don't care what Mickey says, but you brought him up.

"If you run in the higher RPM's and have a bigger carberator then the big valve head will benefit greatly"

I'm just talking about a port and polish not a "big valve head", which will flow even more. And I think bodfper will benefit from a port and polish.

[TRXRacer1]

Originally posted by dariusld
I don't care what Mickey says, but you brought him up.

"If you run in the higher RPM's and have a bigger carberator then the big valve head will benefit greatly"

I'm just talking about a port and polish not a "big valve head", which will flow even more. And I think bodfper will benefit from a port and polish. You're entitled to think what ever you want whether I think it's completely pointless or not. I'm not trying to take that away from you. Not sure what the problem is here.

[dariusld]

Just trying to give the other side of the story:) I have no problem, I'm sorry if I came off that way

[TRXRacer1]

Originally posted by dariusld
Just trying to give the other side of the story:) I have no problem, I'm sorry if I came off that way Cool Cool.

[chrisrzz1012]

i think only a p and p will benefit him greatly. Also having an aftermarket header pipe will do more also. with that in mind watch for FMF , DG , Pro Circuit and some other makers too. Because those pipes are the same diameter as stock. I know Big Gun, LRD,DMC,HMF, and Yoshimura header pipes are bigger. And if you run a same diameter header as stock header pipe you'll be defeating the purpose of having a P and P head. So go with a larger diameter head pipe you'll make that head work great.

[chrisrzz1012]

another person to talk to about 400ex's is Allen Knowles from CT racing . I think one ATV mag did 440 big bore on an ex from CT racing. I saw the article and called him up. He said some useful things to . Like running a K&N Powerlid and foam air filter and also using a bigger oil reservior to make things cooler for the motor. I done both on my 02 400ex and it works.

[TRXRacer1]

People who sell services and parts for a living will typically tell you anything you need to hear to keep them in business. There's ton of machines out there that I would agree to get a P&P but this just isn't one of them. Honda did a really good job which to be honest is odd for them with this era of engine. If your bank account is fat and needs some trimming them go for it but I will challenge you this.... build your machine with all the mods you plan on minus the P&P. After running it for a while get the P&P done and see if that mod alone made any difference.

[bodfper]

If i do a 407 11:1 can i run premium pump fuel? If I can should I get a stg 1 or 2 cam? Will i have problems with overheating with a secondary oil cooler? With a high comp. piston will I be looking at really needing the HD studs. By the way a I have an older dmc dual exhaust that is in one slip on and i do think that the headers are bigger than stock, so should i consider a p+p or still wait on that?

Another thing is what brand of piston is best. Ive been looking at wiseco and JE

JE has a 10.6:1 86mm piston, would you consider me doing that with a hotcam?

[honda400ex2003]

11:1 you should be able to run 93. i would suggest a stage 2, there are a lot of people without hd studs but it is suggested to do so. I guess i would try it without but it is up to you. JE is probably better than wiseco but are more expensive also. I would still suggest if you have the money and want to get a bigger header to do the port and polish. if anything grind down the header welds for now. dont ask yourself if it is worth it or not right now. do you plan to do anything bigger in the future is the question to ask yourself. Every little bit of flow helps as far as i am concerned. you will like a 407 with 11:1 and a stage 2 i think. just my .02 though. steve

[bodfper]

I plan on tearing it down one time, therefore i dont plan on going any bigger. One thing though is that i have an older DMC full exhaust that is dual exhaust into one slip on. I think the headers are bigger than stock but i dont know, do you? What piston would you suggest by JE an 11:1 or something like a 10.6:1? Also with HD studs what kind of gasket kit do I need to look for, and do i only get a top-end gasket kit with the work im doing?
THANKS

[F-16Guy]

If you only want to do this build once and have a rock solid build, do the following:

-- 11:1 86mm or 87mm Wiseco or JE piston (I have a Wiseco that has been great for many years). It will run on premium pump fuel with no problems.

-- Stage 2 HotCams cam (the longer duration of the stage 2 cam will lower dynamic cylinder pressures and ensure you won't have problems running 91/93 octane fuel).

-- OEM XR400R top end gaskets or a Cometic top end set with MLS (multi-layer steel) head gasket. Don't use a set with a fiber head gasket. They're cheaper, but it's worth it to spend the extra $15-20 on the good ones.

-- GT Thunder HD studs installed per GT Thunder's instructions (if you don't have them do it). It's only an extra $100 including installation. Don't cheap out on this unless you like taking apart your top end.


Also, make sure you do these things during assembly:

-- Keep everything clean and organized. Use Zip-Loc bags to keep groups of parts/fasteners together. Use a fine point Sharpie to number bolts and their corresponding locations (mark the bolt head with a #1 and also put a #1 next to the bolt hole, and repeat for each bolt in the group). It makes re-assembly a lot easier since you don't have to guess which bolt came from which hole.

-- Check your piston ring gap before assembly and adjust if necessary. Follow the instructions that come with the rings, or google it.

-- Use assembly lube on the cam lobes and journals, and use clean motor oil to assemble everything else.

-- re-jet BEFORE the first start-up, and once started, don't let the RPMs drop below 2K for the first 20 minutes unless you notice a major problem. Don't worry about the piston and rings during that initial start-up; they'll be fine as long as you assembled it correctly. Look at similar setups for jetting and jet accordingly; it's better to be a little rich during break-in than lean.

[dariusld]

The help I get here is an incredible resource. The effort is appreciated.

" Keep everything clean and organized. Use Zip-Loc bags to keep groups of parts/fasteners together. Use a fine point Sharpie to number bolts and their corresponding locations (mark the bolt head with a #1 and also put a #1 next to the bolt hole, and repeat for each bolt in the group). It makes re-assembly a lot easier since you don't have to guess which bolt came from which hole."


This statement brings the valve cover bolts to mind. The long bolts are easy, but there are two bolts that are close in length that you can mix up. Taking it apart you think its no big deal. But when you put it back together it saves time and grief.

[bodfper]

Will I need a secondary cooler and hd cam chain with this build?

[F-16Guy]

Originally posted by bodfper
Will I need a secondary cooler and hd cam chain with this build?
No on the cooler. It's nice to have, but not necessary. Jetting is more important to engine temps than a secondary oil cooler is.

I would say probably on the chain. If it's the original chain, then it would be a good idea, especially if you have no plans to open it up again in the future. If you're going to do that, make sure you get a clutch cover gasket. I would also advise getting a new clutch lifter pin. They are inexpensive, and known to break, which causes you to limp home with no way to disengage the clutch.


This statement brings the valve cover bolts to mind. The long bolts are easy, but there are two bolts that are close in length that you can mix up. Taking it apart you think its no big deal. But when you put it back together it saves time and grief.
It's also great for the clutch cover. Saves a lot of time two weeks down the road when you can't remember what goes where.:cool:

[bodfper]

What will the cooler do for me that makes it nice to have. Is there a chance of overheating and would the cooler be good insurance?

does $26 sound good for the top end kit by cometic mls?

Also i was quoted $265 on a p+p, is this right?

If im tearing into the clutch i think i will replace it, what kind of clutch do you recommend?

another thing on the cam chain. Do you know if the crf450r chain is good and will work? Or should i go with a hd cam chain from pro x?

[rocky_mtn_honda]

hey bod...can i borrow some cash? you seem to have a lot of it burning a hole in your pocket...lol:D

[bodfper]

Right now i just have big ideas but this will be a winter project so i wanna get it all figured out, trust me i dont have all the money yet.

[rocky_mtn_honda]

couldnt hurt to ask....was totally joking though
im sure whatever you decide, you'll sure appreciate the outcome

[rob_990]

Originally posted by bodfper
What will the cooler do for me that makes it nice to have. Is there a chance of overheating and would the cooler be good insurance?

does $26 sound good for the top end kit by cometic mls?

Also i was quoted $265 on a p+p, is this right?

If im tearing into the clutch i think i will replace it, what kind of clutch do you recommend?

another thing on the cam chain. Do you know if the crf450r chain is good and will work? Or should i go with a hd cam chain from pro x?

go with the crf450 chain.there basically the same thing just a lot cheaper

[TRXRacer1]

Originally posted by rob_990
go with the crf450 chain.there basically the same thing just a lot cheaper And a bit more HD.

[bodfper]

what kind of clutch do you recommend