Clutch adjustment

[mebcop]

Well, to all who have read my threat "bad motors galore" you know my quad wont shift properly....

Soooo....

While the quad is idling in 1st gear, it wants to creep and wont shift up into neutral..... I bottomed out the adjuster on the clutch perch, and even with the screw tightened until bottomed out in the clutch cover, it will not release enough to shift up into neutral.... If I pull a little bit, it'll finally shift all the way into second, but its still wanting to creap and you can tell the clutch isn't disengaged!

I never got to try it after they simply did the clutch upgrade, but I was wondering, what comes in the clutch upgrade? I thought it came with a new clutch cover? Mine is still the same clutch cover that came on my 2008 motor......

[grannysleeper]

The update should have come with the big cover; the narrow one that looks like a case half and goes all the way up behind the water pump and oil filter housing. The round cover that the cable goes into and and the adjustment is on gets reused. The owner's manual has a write up on how to adjust the engagement at the cover, I take it you already tried that?

[mebcop]

Originally posted by grannysleeper
The update should have come with the big cover; the narrow one that looks like a case half and goes all the way up behind the water pump and oil filter housing. The round cover that the cable goes into and and the adjustment is on gets reused. The owner's manual has a write up on how to adjust the engagement at the cover, I take it you already tried that?

Thank you Granny....

Yes, I tried the adjustment exactly as stated in the owners manual. I even tried turning the screw until it was bottomed out on the throw out bearing so that there was no play at all in the lever, and it still doesn't release the clutch enough to allow the quad to shift into neutral....

[xrxmxcx]

Your dealership probably reinstalled your old hub.

[mebcop]

Everything leads back to me having to go back to Roberts... which I WILL NOT DO. I really hope can-am steps up and takes care of this. I realize they aren't responsible for Roberts shortfalls, but Roberts is representing Can-Am.....

[yfzracer14]

Wayne Roberts is the biggest piece sh^* in the north east!!!!!
Dont ever go there.... unless u have a lot of vasoline!!

[grannysleeper]

How mechanically inclined are you? If you decide to take it apart yourself, I'm sure we can help here on this forum...
Is the quad still under warranty? I would take it to another dealer if so. Also, I know it sounds silly, but have you checked the oil level? Those plates may not be getting enough lube. Otherwise, I agree with xrxmx, If they added the extra plate but reused the old hub, it's gonna cause big problems.

[mebcop]

Originally posted by grannysleeper
How mechanically inclined are you? If you decide to take it apart yourself, I'm sure we can help here on this forum...
Is the quad still under warranty? I would take it to another dealer if so. Also, I know it sounds silly, but have you checked the oil level? Those plates may not be getting enough lube. Otherwise, I agree with xrxmx, If they added the extra plate but reused the old hub, it's gonna cause big problems.

I consider myself very mechanically inclined.... I did all the work on my 400hp srt4.. (whole turbo kit, tuned ems ecu, exhaust manifold, water methanol kit, clutch, etc etc etc...). I am not intimidated by this quad at all, the ONLY problem I have is I can't check/clear codes w/o the program that my ****ty dealer has. That's why I'm pissed, I HAVE to keep in with Can-Am simply because of this.

My quad is out of warranty, other than the brand new motor having a 90 day warranty. I'd really rather not void that warranty, so I'll wait a few days as I have some Can-Am reps who are supposed to be calling me back.... I really don't know what they will be able to do for me, because no matter what it'll include me driving an hour and a half EVERY time I need to bring it to a dealer for anything (ECU wise)....

[mebcop]

oh yeah, forgot to answer ur ? Yes, I checked the oil and it was fine.

It is supposed to have ALL NEW clutch plates because can-am approved that with the clutch upgrade....

[yfzracer14]

sounds like waynes awsome machanic screwed up yet another time.

[grannysleeper]

OK, new theory, I bet they replaced all the clutch plates, but put them in dry. Those new friction plates really need to be soaked in oil before installation, it takes forever for the motor oil to get in there on it's own (hence the squeeling heard before the update is done on these things). It's really easy to whip off that outer clutch cover and pull the plates to check, should only take an hour from start to finish. Also make sure that the friction/steel sequence is in order; it should start with a steel plate against the inside of the hub (as of the update; this is where the extra plate is added), also there is a beveled edge on the steels which need to face a certain direction. I can try to post the directions from the update if you like...

[grannysleeper]

Maybe this will help, hope I don't get into trouble for this...

[mebcop]

That's awesome Granny.... my brother-in-law works on machines every day and he just called a couple hours ago and suggested that.... his words were "I bet they never soaked the plates in oil before putting them in".....

He also said that if there were too many plates or the wrong thickness hub, you should be able to tell in the clutch draw, it should be off enough for it to not release AT ALL if that were the case. That makes a lot of sense!

He asked me, and it was really good question, "does it feel like everything is working right mechanically in the clutch, it just isn't fully releasing" and the answer is yes, it feels perfect, just that the clutch is dragging.... That's when he suggested the dry clutch plates....

We are taking the clutch cover off tomorrow night just to take a peek at the plates....

The quad wasn't run more than a total of 20 seconds between 4 or 5 starts since I've had it back (just checking if the adjustments were helping), and if they didn't run it very long there, should the plates be ok to just drop em in the oil for a while and then re-assemble? I guess no one will know until I see what damage is done to em.... I'll keep u guys posted

PS- Thanx for the help Granny:D

[mebcop]

Granny, pic is saved to my puter... go ahead and remove it if you might get in trouble!!!

[grannysleeper]

Yeah, I like to soak the frictions in regular motor oil for about an hour, if not longer. Check out the parts diagram above, make sure everything is there and in sequence, and check that the thrust washers are where they should be according to the picture. Good luck and let us know what you find!!

[mebcop]

Well.... Roberts strikes again!!!

Took the clutch cover off and pulled the plates out.

First of all, I was told that Can-Am was giving me a whole clutch pack (fiber and steel) as the new clutch pack has rounded edges.... well, no rounded edges on any of em....

Second of all, one of the steel plates was bent... I'm guessing they put my original clutch all back in, and then used one of the steel plates out of Coot's DS or something as the extra plate that is supposed to be in the kit....

With the bent steel plate, it wasn't letting the clutch fully disengage. We straightened the plate to where it looks good, and put it back together just to see if it helped at all. I'm not riding it with this plate in it, I am ordering a new one, I just wanted to see if it helped my problem.... well, it worked great. The clutch feels great and is releasing i'd say 95% better. It is still notchier than my old clutch felt, but i've ridden a LOT of other quads that were notchier than this!!! Hell, it shifts JUST LIKE my other DS....

[Blizzard24]

The recall doesnt call for a new clutch pack, the round edges are actually on the plates that come w the quad, but they have to be flipped so the rounded edges are on the side that is pressing against the clutch basket when engaged. They are only supposed to add a 9th plate (I thought one more fiber but I might be wrong).
But if there was a damaged metal plate, they should have replaced it.

[mebcop]

Originally posted by Blizzard24
The recall doesnt call for a new clutch pack, the round edges are actually on the plates that come w the quad, but they have to be flipped so the rounded edges are on the side that is pressing against the clutch basket when engaged. They are only supposed to add a 9th plate (I thought one more fiber but I might be wrong).
But if there was a damaged metal plate, they should have replaced it.

No, when my dealer called the rep about the upgrade, the rep said, "give him a whole new clutch pack, so you're not mixing the one new steel plate with all the old ones..."

There was supposed to be a new set of clutch plates and there wasnt

[jasonjonesjj]

how are you guys getting access to the plates? i am trying to get my clutch apart because some of the bolts holding the pressure plate and springs, came loose and rubbed up against the clutch cover. i get the pressure plate off but cant get the hub off to take the plates out. i thought about getting the tusk clutch holder, but after seeing a video of it, im not so sure it will work with this clutch. i cant get the 27mm bolt out without the hub moving.

[blaster99]

Originally posted by jasonjonesjj
how are you guys getting access to the plates? i am trying to get my clutch apart because some of the bolts holding the pressure plate and springs, came loose and rubbed up against the clutch cover. i get the pressure plate off but cant get the hub off to take the plates out. i thought about getting the tusk clutch holder, but after seeing a video of it, im not so sure it will work with this clutch. i cant get the 27mm bolt out without the hub moving.

I get mine with an impact gun. Its the only way that works.

[xrxmxcx]

Put on a glove, or hold the basket with a rag and hit it with an impact gun. If your not sold on that I can get you the PN for the basket holder from BRP.

[xrxmxcx]

Originally posted by mebcop
Well.... Roberts strikes again!!!

Took the clutch cover off and pulled the plates out.

First of all, I was told that Can-Am was giving me a whole clutch pack (fiber and steel) as the new clutch pack has rounded edges.... well, no rounded edges on any of em....

Second of all, one of the steel plates was bent... I'm guessing they put my original clutch all back in, and then used one of the steel plates out of Coot's DS or something as the extra plate that is supposed to be in the kit....

With the bent steel plate, it wasn't letting the clutch fully disengage. We straightened the plate to where it looks good, and put it back together just to see if it helped at all. I'm not riding it with this plate in it, I am ordering a new one, I just wanted to see if it helped my problem.... well, it worked great. The clutch feels great and is releasing i'd say 95% better. It is still notchier than my old clutch felt, but i've ridden a LOT of other quads that were notchier than this!!! Hell, it shifts JUST LIKE my other DS....

Don't know if you thoroughly inspected them but there is only going to be one SLIGHTLY rounded edge on the plate that was added. It's so slight that I barely noticed and had to hold two in hand side by side to determine it. As far as the bent one I don't understand that as I don't recall one being flared, or "bent"


If you want I will trade you my Baldwin National YZ444F for your two stock DS's :devil:

[grannysleeper]

I agree, the rounded outside edge is so slight it will take a bright light and a good eye to notice it! Glad to hear that I'm not the only one that ran into this!

[mebcop]

When you look at the parts microfiche on babbitts online.com or bike bandit, all the steel plates are the same part number, so I'm pretty sure one isn't supposed to be bent.... plus, we put a straight one in and now it works properly....

[xrxmxcx]

I will attest that the DS doesn't use a "flared" plate like some designs do, but who know where that one came from or how it happened...

Any pictures of the plate you took out?