Running Hot

[gdwrnch33]

I bought a 88 250r a few months ago. I havent had much time to ride. Today I went ridding with some friends. On slow speed trail ridding the temp ran between 225 and 250 degrees. I could run it up a fast trail so it could get air and it would cool down close to 200. It has esr 330 power valve cylinder and head and pipe. It ran great all day. Does anyone know what I should start checking. Also what temp should it run. Thanks Terry

[1promodfan]

You should run under 200.........first thing I would check would be for an airleak. Mine was overheating, and thats the problem I had.

[gdwrnch33]

If it had a air leak where would I look. would it leak water. Thanks Terry

[rsss396]

probably should try a larger radiator, with scoops

don't advance the timing unless you are short racing

run 80% water 20% antifreeze , could even try "water wetter"
from redline.

just make sure to change the antifreeze to a higher mix for winter.

[1promodfan]

Originally posted by gdwrnch33
If it had a air leak where would I look. would it leak water. Thanks Terry

Mine was leaking on the intake boot going from the carb to the cylinder. I just took it off and put it back on making sure it was a tight fit. After doing that, I went from running around 230 degrees to about 180 degress. Thats a big jump!! Check out this post I made with the same problem.

http://www.exriders.com/vbb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=397794

[rsss396]

The problem I have with the suggestion of a air leak is the state of tune on the bike would lean.

Air by its self does not make a motor run hot.

If the bike is performing well and the plug color is checked and it shows color than I would not believe it has a air leak.

Spray carb cleaner around the intake and base gasket to be sure.

[thedeatons]

Take a picture of your sparkplug and post it.

The ceramic should be a chocolate brown, just short of being wet, that will run really cool.

Like they said if your plug is right you may either have an airleak, your radiator might be low on coolant, or simply inadequate.

James

[IcutMetl]

Like someone mentioned above; try Redline "Water Wetter." I had a Kawasaki ZX10 a few years ago that always ran on the hot side in city...i sucked out some of the anti-freeze, replaced it with water wetter, and it definitely ran a bit cooler.

I run "engine ice" in my 'wheeler, and it seems to do a good job as well.

[1promodfan]

Originally posted by rsss396
The problem I have with the suggestion of a air leak is the state of tune on the bike would lean.

Air by its self does not make a motor run hot.

If the bike is performing well and the plug color is checked and it shows color than I would not believe it has a air leak.

Spray carb cleaner around the intake and base gasket to be sure.

If a motor is sucking air, then it CAN cause it to run hot. When mine was running hot, I had plenty of color on my plug. In fact my bike ran great......just hot. I checked everything......and I mean everything. The only thing that corrected my problem is the air leak.

Now gdwrnch33, I'm not saying this is your problem.......but it very well could be. I say there is no need to run an oversized radiator unless maybe you are duning. Reason I say that, is I know a lot of guys that race with a stock rad. Even Neil of C-Leigh Racing runs a stock rad. on his daughters 250R. She runs TT racing, so she is on the gas quite a bit.

Just be sure you are getting coolant, and like IcutMetl said, you can try "engine ice". Hope this helps.

[FL-R]

If your bumper has a mud screen on it take it off and try it out, I had a AC stadium mudscreen bumper, ran 200 to 250 in the woods, put a PWR on and it help some, ran Engine Ice and it helped some more, 200 to 225, I cut the bumper up and im down to 180, 200 at the most.

[thedeatons]

This is really interesting and tempting!

Question: Was the mudscreen staying clear or was it getting clogged up and then overheating?

Just curious, because I ride dunes so my screen is always clear...

James

[1promodfan]

Originally posted by thedeatons
This is really interesting and tempting!

Question: Was the mudscreen staying clear or was it getting clogged up and then overheating?

Just curious, because I ride dunes so my screen is always clear...

James

James, I did the same thing FL-R did. I did notice a slight change in temp. then, but I was still running hot. Thats when I checked my intake boot.....after that, no problems!!

[thedeatons]

Okay... Well, I may try a CT bumper, which is what I just posted about.

I may try to spray some QD or starting fluid all around my engine too.... Worth a shot, and I haven't checked that yet. My temps are staying at 200 and below in the dunes so far though, with the Afco dual pass. Haven't had any real long, hard runs on it yet with all my new work.

James

[rsss396]

[QUOTE]Originally posted by 1promodfan
[B]If a motor is sucking air, then it CAN cause it to run hot. When mine was running hot, I had plenty of color on my plug. In fact my bike ran great......just hot. I checked everything......and I mean everything. The only thing that corrected my problem is the air leak.

not trying to be a *** but the question is how does air make a motor run hot.?
By leaning the fuel air ratio, if this happens then the plug will show it.
A plug and its color is the window to what is going on in your motor.

[thedeatons]

I agree that the plug should indicate an air leak.... The plug tells all.

James

[1promodfan]

Originally posted by rsss396
[QUOTE]Originally posted by 1promodfan
[B]If a motor is sucking air, then it CAN cause it to run hot. When mine was running hot, I had plenty of color on my plug. In fact my bike ran great......just hot. I checked everything......and I mean everything. The only thing that corrected my problem is the air leak.

not trying to be a *** but the question is how does air make a motor run hot.?
By leaning the fuel air ratio, if this happens then the plug will show it.
A plug and its color is the window to what is going on in your motor.

No problem, I understand what you're saying. The plug will tell you, but I was just saying what happened to me. My plug looked fine, but my boot had a crack in it and was sucking air. I'm not sure how it didn't show on my plug......maybe because I was still playing with my jetting too?? But, you are right, the plug is the window to what the motor is doing. You know how these motors can be......you think its one thing, and come to find out, its something else.:)

[thedeatons]

I know how that is. I spent two days troubleshooting my carb, and it turned out to be my coil....

Yah, it could have been because of your jetting adjustments, and because you weren't running it long/hard enough for the plug to register the change in AFR.

James

[Aceman]

Guys need to start using leakdown testers as a part of regular maintenance and troubleshooting. Some people spend so much time guessing what's wrong and replacing different parts, or tearing their carbs apart ten times when it turns out it's a leaking air boot, etc. I just don't understand it.:confused:

They spend umpteen dollars on parts, plastics, etc but can't spend $20 bucks or so to build a leakdown tester, which will pretty much never wear out, it'll last you forever, and it'll take some of the guesswork out of motor issues. There is no logical reason not to own one.:ermm:

[gdwrnch33]

Thanks guys for all the replys. Sorry I havent got back with yall. I run a wrecker service and the last few days has been busy. Yall have gave me a lot of things to look at. My temp gauge is in the top hose. Which one is it supose to go in. Thanks Terry

[skyhighatv]

I agree with aceman,owning and knowing how to use a leakdown tester is a must. I personally will never start a fresh motor without testing it before hand,and as said they are a great troubleshooting tool as well. Anybody who does not own a leakdown tester should indeffinately invest in one.

[thedeatons]

Temp gauge should be closest to the head, or in the top hose, as you said. That way you see the temp of the coolant coming out of the head.

[86 Quad R]

Originally posted by Aceman
Guys need to start using leakdown testers as a part of regular maintenance and troubleshooting. Some people spend so much time guessing what's wrong and replacing different parts, or tearing their carbs apart ten times when it turns out it's a leaking air boot, etc. I just don't understand it.:confused:

They spend umpteen dollars on parts, plastics, etc but can't spend $20 bucks or so to build a leakdown tester, which will pretty much never wear out, it'll last you forever, and it'll take some of the guesswork out of motor issues. There is no logical reason not to own one.:ermm:

i couldnt agree more. :cool:

[twopump78]

where is the best place to buy a leak down tester or what all does it take to build one?

[86 Quad R]

Here (http://www.exriders.com/vbb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=265369&highlight=leakdown+tester) you are. :cool:

[SuperSherman]

I have had multiple issues with heat in my R. I finally got a guage and started playing with it. The retard I am I put it on the lower hose and broke in my motor, then ran it hard. It spiked 200 immediately and the plug and piston top showed rich. I got on here and looked up overheating issues and folks said they had issues with their AC bumpers. I took it off and it hasn't ran over 160 since.

[mxduner]

Originally posted by gdwrnch33
On slow speed trail ridding the temp ran between 225 and 250 degrees. I could run it up a fast trail so it could get air and it would cool down close to 200. It has esr 330 power valve cylinder and head and pipe. It ran great all day. Does anyone know what I should start checking. Also what temp should it run. Thanks Terry i had the EXACT same problem as you, to a tee, and went round's with it. it turned out to be a mechanical seal. Use the tech sticky if you have any problems replacing it. took me 15 or so minutes, or about 1/2 a beer.:D