Axle runout

[IcutMetl]

In the service manual, Honda specifies maximum axle run out at 3mm(.118") when axle is supported at ends in v-blocks and checked with dial indicator in center on the areas where the bearings make contact.

I bought a used Lonestar axle off a gentleman on here, installed it in my carrier (which had the bearings replaced approx. 3months ago), and noticed there was irregular runout at the left end. I checked with my quad on a stand, and dial indicator fastened to steel plate sitting on floor- while rotating the axle using the brake disc slow and steady, I got .164"(4.2mm) t.i.r. measureed just ahead of the spline area, and on the right side about .060" (1.5mm)t.i.r. Tested multiple times, all approx. the same readings +/- .003".

Now I'm pretty realistic and never expect a used item to be perfect...but it looks like a BIT much to me. I'm anxious as hell to get this thing back together and have had a hell of a time with transactons on parts lately.

What would you guys do??

Thanks

[Honda 250r 001]

as long as you cant feel it that bad when your riding i would just leave it, but if its bad then send that ***** back and get your money back!

[deathman53]

it is noticeable when you ride in the dirt? If no, I wouldn't worry about it. Probably better than 1/2, maybe 3/4 of the people have slightly bent axles. Mine do and everybody I know. I used to go nuts about it, I stopped, it got very expensive.

[IcutMetl]

I just installed it and noticed the wobble; haven't had it off the stand yet; still waiting for more parts.

I PM'd who sold it to me and sent him a polite message explaining the situation and asking if he knew if it was bent before I bought it.

And yes; you are probably spot-on about the majority of axles having some degree of bend in them and how being too detailed can get expensive- I agree.

I got the axle for about 1/4 the price of a new one; which I feel pretty good about, and it was very accurately described except for that. So, we'll see.

[IcutMetl]

Went to install my factory brake hub and anti-fade nut, and the anti-fade nut collar doesn't seem to be long enough (not enough threads) to tighten the collar against the brake hub. With everything tight and hand pressed into the carrier, the outer adjustment nut screws off the end of the collar before it makes contact with the snap/locking ring in the axle.

I was under the impression that Lonestar axles could be used with factory components. Is there something I'm not seeing here?

Thanks for the help!

[kouki]

It's possible that the sprocket hub is on wrong. Which would make everything out of line.

[IcutMetl]

Nah...I checked; the hubs are on the right way- seal diameters pointing in towards the carrier. This is frustrating!!

[kouki]

Originally posted by IcutMetl
Nah...I checked; the hubs are on the right way- seal diameters pointing in towards the carrier. This is frustrating!!

Ok, but the sprocket hub can be facing the right way and still be on wrong. If the previous owner took the hub off. To take the sprocket hub off, you press it in towards the carrier, then remove a clip, then press it off the opposite way. If they removed the hub for some reason before you bought it, and put the clip on before they pressed the hub back on it would make your axle off center and you would have a gap between the locknut and brake hub. Does that make sense?

[IcutMetl]

Is there a clip on both sides of the sprocket hub then? I can push the sprocket hub towards the center; it hits some sort of a shoulder and wont move farther. Gives you just enough room to slip on the outer clip, and slide the hub back against that. Even with the sprocket hub against the outermost retaining ring, when you put the brake hub on the other side; there's still too much of a gap left to take up with the anti-fade nut.

Thanks for your guys' help by the way.

[kouki]

Alright, sounds like the sprocket hub is all good. There is no inner clip, the hub is just hitting where the splines end, the only clip is the one towards the outside, I just thought there was a chance that somebody put the hub on the wrong side of the clip. Not sure what's going on here. Are you sure the axle is a 250r axle? I know that the 450r axle has different hub spacing, maybe you got an axle for something else??? Good luck

[leager-n-ky]

I had this happen on the stock axle lock, had a heck of a time. Come to find out the threaded sleeve was stripped at the very end, try flipping that part, and see if it gets tight.

[IcutMetl]

I'm going to feel like a real tool if it's something silly that I'm overlooking. I thought the end of the threaded sleeve might be stripped, but it is not...you screw it all the way back and it will back off the threads before it comes in contact with the lock ring.

The axle came off of a 250r rolling chassis.

[leager-n-ky]

Thats exactley what mine was doing, and i flipped the threaded part and it tightened up. I couldnt beleive it, because I had beat myself up for days trying to figure it out.

[deathman53]

I had a similar problem years ago, the guy made a thicker washer/c-clip holder. It was driving him nuts also. We tried and flipped the collar, it still didn't catch.

[RyanWsly]

Which nut do you have?3 piece or 2 piece?one has a retainer that goes over the ring and one is made into the nut, that on has longer threads,if you don't have the ring on the older style it will run out of threads, if the axle bearings are worn, you will run out of threads. I hate the stock anti-fade nut, best investment I ever made was the durablue brake hub and nut made together, thing actually rolls like it should....... blame alot of my premature bearing failures on that nut, did the old stuck a washer between the retainer and the nut trick too, never was happy with it, threaded sleeve was messed up on it. As far as the axle goes take it to a machine shop if it's that bad, they should be able to true it up for you pretty cheap, if it's not that bad I wouldn't worry about it, they are almost all bent slightly, would ride it and make the call on that one.