I heard a rumor about oil....can anyone confirm???

[craigmacphee]

I currently run Amsoil 10-40 synthetic in my ds450 x mx. I talked to a guy the other day when I was ordering some parts that told me he knew "their guys" ran 15w40 Rotella T. (The same stuff I run in my diesel pick-ups. Has anyone else ran it before? If you want to remain anonymous for "racers sake", please respond to me in a PM.

If you think I may grenade my motor by running it, PLEASE resond by any means possible. LOL

Thanks in advance, Craig

[Mr. Big Time]

Yes, that is perfectly safe to run in your bike. Just dont run it as long as you might run 4stroke oil. I run the rotella in my ds450 and have had no problems. It helps run cooler than the stuff your running. Just dont run synthetic-it is bad for the clutch, and keep the numbers high in the high heat-such as 15-40or 20-50, and numbers lower in the cold winters.

[RosquistRacer39]

Over on ******** ATP racing actually recommends running this oil. I've been running it in both my bikes with no problems. ATP says it actually lubricates better because it doesn't have all the detergents and other additives.

[ltr311]

I run it in all my bikes. Best oil in my eyes.

[craigmacphee]

Thanks for the confirmation guys. I guess I am going to have to give it a try. Amsoil has been good to me, but I could afford oil changes two-three times more often with the Rotella T.

[born2ride14]

Originally posted by RosquistRacer39
Over on ******** ATP racing actually recommends running this oil. I've been running it in both my bikes with no problems. ATP says it actually lubricates better because it doesn't have all the detergents and other additives.


Well if it doesent have as much detergents, creates sludge, there for clogging things up and the motor doestent last as long

[grannysleeper]

The main difference between conventional oil and Rotella (and other diesel engine oils like Delo) is the Zinc additive. Aparently if an engine burns a lot of oil, the zinc (also called zddp) will kill a cat converter, so the EPA prevents gasoline engine oils from having much, if any, in it. The ZDDP is an anti wear additive, so a lot of auto engine builders like to run it when breaking in a new engine with a flat tappet camshaft.

Most new diesels have cats now, so the zinc content in a lot of these oils will likely (if not already) be reduced...

[Flynbryan19]

Originally posted by Mr. Big Time
Just dont run synthetic-it is bad for the clutch.....

Your kidding right.....? :p

Running synthetic oil doesn't hurt your clutch one bit. You may want to do some homework. There are MANY synthetic oils available for your tranny that are pefectly safe. The "synthetic oil is bad for clutches" is an old wives tale that inexperienced/misinformed people came up with. What you DON"T want to run in a clutch is an oil with Moly in it.

[craigmacphee]

ok......I'm not up on all the lingo, so I have to ask, what oils have moly in it that you know of? I've never heard of such a thing. Craig

[miles Machine]

yup as long as your synthetic oil is designed with friction modifiers and anti foaming agents for wet clutches your fine (ex. Klotz techniplate)

all motorcycle grade oils will have this in them as well as detergents

[ml450r]

I have ran rotella T 15-40 since I got my canam.

[Mr. Big Time]

I used to run only oil that was synthetic untill I was talking to motoworks....(you know the company that spends hours and hours every single work day testing these bikes) and they said that for some reason synthetic oil is burning up the clutches, as soon as they switched to a non-synthetic oil, the problem seemed to go away. And I'm not talking about blowing your clutch, i'm just talking about burning it. Trust me buddie, I did my homework, cause they werent the only people I talked to about it.

[TNT]

If you do a search on the net you'll find MILLIONS of people that know everything about oils and have a TON of advice and opinions...the debate is MASSIVE and has been going on for YEARS.

BOTTOM LINE I have found in our application is the clutch, viscosity, clean oil, OP temp.......As often as us racers s/b replacing our oil viscosity brake down should not be an issue nor should cleanliness or temp, so in that repect petrolium or synthetic are the same. The anti-friction property is key for pro-longed clutch life, how much is added is the mystery since noone list it on the label......it boils down to trial and error it can really make a BIG difference on clutch life....so I say if you found an oil(synthetic or petrolium)that works for ya stick with it.

In order to get comparitive data on something like this you'd have to take this specific quad with a NEW engine/clutch for each oil run life cycle test on the motor/clutch at specific RPM's/ OP temps; conditions(dirt/same racer/loads/etc...)....etc.....it would be a difficult almost impossible test compared to a car on a road since our conditions can change so easily and are hard to controll on a MX/XC track........anything less is hersay!

[Blizzard24]

I am just throwing this out there for oil and my experience in the DS450.

Mobil1 Synthetic Motorcycle oil! I am using it in 2 hr races with the Hinson Basket and 09 updated Hub and case cover and there is Zero squeeling. I mean ZERO. The clutch grabs perfectly and the engine is strong. there has been zero clutch fade even in the tail end of the race when I have been abusing it to navigate tight rutted out sections that require a lot of clutching.

It is easy to find (any car parts place like Auto Zone, Wal*Mart, or most dealerships). It isnt cheap, but I have used it exclusively in my 06 YFZ450 that had 2 race seasons on the stock engine and clutch and now the DS.

[Flynbryan19]

Originally posted by Mr. Big Time
I used to run only oil that was synthetic untill I was talking to motoworks....(you know the company that spends hours and hours every single work day testing these bikes) and they said that for some reason synthetic oil is burning up the clutches, as soon as they switched to a non-synthetic oil, the problem seemed to go away. And I'm not talking about blowing your clutch, i'm just talking about burning it. Trust me buddie, I did my homework, cause they werent the only people I talked to about it.

lol......riiiiiight. Ok. Comical to me the number of factory teams that use synthetic oil in their race bikes. Heck, not just atv. Take a look at some of the mx bikes, street bike, and even automotive races teams. There are countless teams that run synthetic oils with zero problems. I have ran synthetic oil in the past as well with zero problems and known many people I have raced with running syn oil with no troubles. When the oil is made for a wet clutch application it is no worse for your clutch than a non-synthetic oil.

I'm not doubting that you were told this, I am just stating that they are not correct.

[RosquistRacer39]

I am no oil expert, but I could see how a synthetic could cause the clutch to burn up. Doesn't synthetic have better lubrication properties? Therefore the plates could actually be to well lubed and causing them to slip? Where a regular oil would maybe help them to grab a little better? I don't know just my observation but I could be wrong. Won't be the first or last time.

Not to mention factory operations run whatever the sponsor thats paying for tells them to. I would if they were giving it to me:D

[TNT]

Originally posted by RosquistRacer39
I am no oil expert, but I could see how a synthetic could cause the clutch to burn up. Doesn't synthetic have better lubrication properties? Therefore the plates could actually be to well lubed and causing them to slip? Where a regular oil would maybe help them to grab a little better? I don't know just my observation but I could be wrong. Won't be the first or last time.

Not to mention factory operations run whatever the sponsor thats paying for tells them to. I would if they were giving it to me:D

Don’t feel bad, the only ones that have a good understanding of this are petro-chem engineers, scientist, and chemist rest of us fall victim to what we read, we all know not to believe everything we read or hear. From what I have read and understand synthetics were made to prolong viscosity break down so that we can run longer between oil changes, some say the oil still gets dirty so be careful. Like in my 08 F-450 diesel it’s every 10,000 miles but my engine was designed for it with the proper filtration system. Viscosity is an oils resistant to flow.

I don’t think anyone can answer your question about the viscosity needed for the plates on the DS more less that and the combination of antifriction content or any other constituent to prevent slippage and pro-long life without a proper test. Like I said we here running different oils and passing that test info onto others is probably the best source of info out there, provided the oil is changed on a regular basis. I believe a petroleum or synthetic will work equally as good with the right additives, you may ask why spend more for the synthetic if you will change it before the benefit of extended viscosity, but if you found a good synthetic that works good noone can argue with that. We had a 06 YAM that burnt clutches all the time we went to a synthetic and rarely burnt them. I was shocked at what just an oil can do, it’s expensive but cheaper that $150 clutches every 3 races.

[Claas900]

I've been told as long as the oil Doesn't have Friction Modifier it should be safe for a clutch.

[Z15]

I am no oil expert, but I could see how a synthetic could cause the clutch to burn up.


That is a myth, spread by salespersons, ATV dealers, mechanics and internet forums where seemingly knowledge people are offering their slant. Engine builders etc are often no experts in lubrication, they may know engines and have a favorite brand of oil and that's all they know about the subject. If you went into 5 different ATV dealer you would likely get 5 different opinions of the subject but like most things, they are just experts in their own minds.

Synthetic oil is not all the same. There are as many brands (formulations) of synthetic oils as there brands of ATV's. You have to use the right oil for the job. Look in the owners manual, find the spec's for the oil required and buy an oil with that spec., it that simple.

Synthetic oils are designed from chemicals (usually Ethylene Gas as in PAO's), they are built molecule by molecule and can be formulated for any purpose. Every jet airplane in the sky is using synthetic oil, the space shuttle uses synthetic oil. Refining oils from crude can only go so far and you reached the limits of what the can do with it. Synthetics on the other hand can be built for anything and thus the reason for the increased cost.

PS-I have been in the lubricant business for over 30 yrs and heard every myth there is on synthetic oil. none of them are true.

[craigmacphee]

"PS-I have been in the lubricant business for over 30 yrs and heard every myth there is on synthetic oil. none of them are true.:

So mobil one synthetic will not lubricate any protect better than straight valvoline 10w30?

[Z15]

I said myths, you are referring to product claims. Not the same thing.



Some common myths about synthetic oil.

Synthetic oil cannot be used in new engines becayse synthetic oil is too slippery, new engines won't break in.
Yet GM and many other oem's as well as Polaris have been installing synthetic oil in new vehicles for years and making it mandatory in those vehicle to maintain warranty.

synthetic oil causes seals to leak
I been using synthetic oil since 1975 in everything I owned and never had a oil leak ever.

Other myths being spread around
you need to flush an engine before using synthetic oil

synthetic oil is no good for motorcycles and atv's, bad for wet clutch

synthetic oil can't be used in diesel engines

Keep in mind the term Synthetic Oil just refers to how the oil is made, synthetic = man made.

Synthetic lubricants are chemically engineered from pure chemicals rather than refined from crude oil.
Many different kinds of base stocks may be used to create synthetic lubricants, allowing a synthetic to be designed for virtually any application. Some base stocks are ideal for use in extremely cold environments, others are perfect for use in extreme heat. Some are extremely safe in applications in which refined lubricants pose a fire or explosion hazard. Refined oils simply do not offer the design flexibility synthetics offer. The designability of synthetics also allows them to be tailored very specifically to the needs of everyday applications, such as automotive engines, commercial equipment or industrial machinery. That specificity helps ensure long life and peak power, performance and fuel economy from the lubricated system, as well as long lubricant life.

Conventional oils – the oils most people are familiar with – are refined from crude oil. Refining is a process of physically separating light oil components from heavy ones. Crude oil contains a full range of different kinds of molecules. Many are similar in weight but not in structure. The refining process cannot distinguish such molecules, so a wide assortment of molecules is present in a finished lubricant made from crude oil stocks.

Some crude oil molecules are not beneficial to the lubrication process. For example, paraffin causes refined lubricants to thicken and flow poorly in cold temperatures. Molecules containing sulfur, nitrogen and other elements invite the formation of sludge and other products of lubricant breakdown, especially in high-temperature applications. Sludge and breakdown products significantly increase wear rates. The assorted molecules of refined lubricants also have different shapes, making lubricant surfaces irregular at the molecular level. As lubricant layers flow across one another during the lubrication process, these irregularities create friction, which consumes power, reduces efficiency and increases heat and wear.

[TNT]

Originally posted by Z15
That is a myth, spread by salespersons, ATV dealers, mechanics and internet forums where seemingly knowledge people are offering their slant. Engine builders etc are often no experts in lubrication, they may know engines and have a favorite brand of oil and that's all they know about the subject. If you went into 5 different ATV dealer you would likely get 5 different opinions of the subject but like most things, they are just experts in their own minds.

Synthetic oil is not all the same. There are as many brands (formulations) of synthetic oils as there brands of ATV's. You have to use the right oil for the job. Look in the owners manual, find the spec's for the oil required and buy an oil with that spec., it that simple.

Synthetic oils are designed from chemicals (usually Ethylene Gas as in PAO's), they are built molecule by molecule and can be formulated for any purpose. Every jet airplane in the sky is using synthetic oil, the space shuttle uses synthetic oil. Refining oils from crude can only go so far and you reached the limits of what the can do with it. Synthetics on the other hand can be built for anything and thus the reason for the increased cost.

PS-I have been in the lubricant business for over 30 yrs and heard every myth there is on synthetic oil. none of them are true.



Originally posted by Z15
I said myths, you are referring to product claims. Not the same thing.



Some common myths about synthetic oil.

Synthetic oil cannot be used in new engines becayse synthetic oil is too slippery, new engines won't break in.
Yet GM and many other oem's as well as Polaris have been installing synthetic oil in new vehicles for years and making it mandatory in those vehicle to maintain warranty.

synthetic oil causes seals to leak
I been using synthetic oil since 1975 in everything I owned and never had a oil leak ever.

Other myths being spread around
you need to flush an engine before using synthetic oil

synthetic oil is no good for motorcycles and atv's, bad for wet clutch

synthetic oil can't be used in diesel engines

Keep in mind the term Synthetic Oil just refers to how the oil is made, synthetic = man made.

Synthetic lubricants are chemically engineered from pure chemicals rather than refined from crude oil.
Many different kinds of base stocks may be used to create synthetic lubricants, allowing a synthetic to be designed for virtually any application. Some base stocks are ideal for use in extremely cold environments, others are perfect for use in extreme heat. Some are extremely safe in applications in which refined lubricants pose a fire or explosion hazard. Refined oils simply do not offer the design flexibility synthetics offer. The designability of synthetics also allows them to be tailored very specifically to the needs of everyday applications, such as automotive engines, commercial equipment or industrial machinery. That specificity helps ensure long life and peak power, performance and fuel economy from the lubricated system, as well as long lubricant life.

Conventional oils – the oils most people are familiar with – are refined from crude oil. Refining is a process of physically separating light oil components from heavy ones. Crude oil contains a full range of different kinds of molecules. Many are similar in weight but not in structure. The refining process cannot distinguish such molecules, so a wide assortment of molecules is present in a finished lubricant made from crude oil stocks.

Some crude oil molecules are not beneficial to the lubrication process. For example, paraffin causes refined lubricants to thicken and flow poorly in cold temperatures. Molecules containing sulfur, nitrogen and other elements invite the formation of sludge and other products of lubricant breakdown, especially in high-temperature applications. Sludge and breakdown products significantly increase wear rates. The assorted molecules of refined lubricants also have different shapes, making lubricant surfaces irregular at the molecular level. As lubricant layers flow across one another during the lubrication process, these irregularities create friction, which consumes power, reduces efficiency and increases heat and wear.

Nice to see someone out here with knowledge and experience w/oil. The majority of the population on this site are racers, the spec’s in the owners manual no longer apply. We run small engines to their limits that push the OEM spec’s, maintenance schedules, etc. There are numerous race engine configurations out here nothing simple about them or the lube requirement, some requiring lots of money and development time such as mine. We during the season for example will rebuild our top end every 3-5 races (about every hour), tranny about every 1-2 years if we’re lucky, replace the clutch about every 1-3 hours if it needs it or not, some pro race teams tear the engine/tranny down completely after every race. That’s why I stated above without the proper test it’s hard to determine lube requirements for all, we are the best source of info, each other…We run a synthetic Motorex have for years works great for us.

[craigmacphee]

Thank your for the information. Craig

[Seed]

Here is a very good write up and should help a lot of you out when choosing oils. Enjoy!!!

Brief Introduction

Along with keeping things adjusted properly, using a good quality motor oil and changing it regularly is the key ingredient to keeping your motorcycle running happily for a long time. You cannot go wrong using one of the various "motorcycle-specific" oils, now available also from some of the major oil companies. However, many motorcyclists object to the higher prices of those oils and for convenience prefer to buy oil at their local automotive supply store, which is a still a good option. This article will provide you with information to make an informed choice.

Price of Motor Oil

So how do you make an intelligent choice? Will $1.00 a quart automotive oil work okay or do you need to pay $4 to $12 a quart for "motorcycle" oil? You have to answer that question yourself, but here are a few facts to help you make the best decision for your situation.

The owner's manual of your motorcycle probably says something very similar to the following:


Use only high detergent, premium quality motor oil certified to meet API Service Classification SF or SG (shown on container). The use of additives is unnecessary and will only increase operating expenses. Do not use oils with graphite or molybdenum additives as they may adversely affect clutch operation."
That's pretty clear. But what do you do since automotive oils now say on the container "meets SL Service?" That's easy! By consensus of the API and the manufacturers, the current SL classification meet all requirements of SF, SG, SH, and SJ plus all earlier API gasoline categories. The current SL actually offers some additional benefits over the older classifications. So, if the motorcycle requirement says "SG", be confident that "SL" indeed meets that requirement.

BUT.....The Vanishing Zinc and Phosphorous

It is a fact than many SL oils now contain lower levels of ZDDP (the zinc/phosphorous extreme pressure additive) and that is a big concern to a lot of motorcyclists. ZDDP is a last resort protection against metal-to-metal contact. Whereas a few years ago the zinc level was typically 0.12% to 0.15% in SG automobile oils, some SL oils now have as little as 0.05%. However, this in itself may not be a problem since normal operation of a motorcycle on the street would never result in metal-to-metal contact any more than it would in your automobile. Remember these SL oils meet the most demanding protection requirements of modern, high-reving, powerful 4-stroke automobile engines (among others). And there is no reason to believe the lubrication requirements of street motorcycles is measurably different.

However, if you race you probably need higher levels of ZDDP and should use appropriate oils or ZDDP additives.

NEW Motorcycle Oils

Seeing an opportunity to bridge this perceived gap between motorcycle oils and automotive oils, many traditional oil marketers like Castrol, Mobil, Pennzoil, Quaker State, and Valvoline now sell their own "motorcycle" oils at very competitive prices, and alongside their automotive oils. I have found them at several of my local autoparts stores and even at one WalMart store. Call or visit the auto supply stores in your area and ask. Even if they don't routinely stock them, they probably can order a case for you at substantial savings because their mark-up is generally quite a bit less than motorcycle shops.

Although not a motorcycle oil, oils with the designation "Racing Oil" are not intended for street use, generally meets "SG" requirements and has somewhat higher levels of additives, like ZDDP. An example is Valvoline's VR1 Racing oil available in 20w50 weight. These should work fine in our motorcycles.

Energy-Conserving Oils

Some are concerned that the new "energy-conserving" motor oils may have "friction modifiers" which will cause clutch slippage. Since that is a legitimate concern it is best to use only oils which are NOT "energy-conserving for motorcycles with wet clutches." Read the back of the container. It clearly identifies this. In general, only the very lighter oils, like 10w30, 10w20, 5w20, are energy-conserving. All 5w40, 5w50, 10w40, 15w40, 15w50, and 20w50 oils which I have found are not energy-conserving and can be recommended for general motorcycle use.

It is commonly mis-stated that "SJ and SL oils have friction modifiers which will cause wet clutch slippage." In reality, all oils have friction modifiers, that's how they work. ZDDP itself is a friction modifier. The real issue is to avoid getting the friction so low, with very thin oils containing extra amounts of friction modifiers, that clutches will slip under normal use. Stay away from energy conserving oils and you should be fine, if your clutch is in good working order.

Synthetic or Conventional

What about synthetic vs. semi-synthetic vs. "dino" oils? All motor oils have several special additives formulated into the oil to protect from corrosion and wear, plus detergents to keep combustion products in the oil. For normal (non-extreme) use, "dino" oils protect as well as the synthetic oils. However, if you plan to race, run at extremely high temperatures, or plan to extend oil-change intervals, or simply want the best, then a synthetic or semi-synthetic may be your best choice.

Real World Test Results

Are there any "real world" examples of long motorcycle engine life using automotive oils? There is a good one in the June 1996 issue of Sport Rider magazine in a report called the "100,000 mile Honda CBR900RR." The owner used conventional Castrol GTX oil, 10W40 in the winter, 20W50 in the summer. He changed it every 4,000 miles, changing the filter every OTHER oil change. No valve clearance adjustments were required after the initial one at 16,000 miles. And a dyno test against the same model with only 6,722 miles showed torque and horsepower virtually identical. The 100,000 mile bike was even used for some racing. In a subsequent follow-up, the same CBR had passed 200,000 miles and was still going strong! Plus, many motorcyclists have emailed me with their very positive results using nothing but automotive oils for years in a variety of rides. Oils have changed over the past 10 years, but that just means we need to be more careful in our choices.

Frequency Asked Questions

What is a reasonable oil-change interval?

Most manuals recommend not to exceed 8,000 miles after break-in. But short-trip riding is considered severe service and the most common oil change interval is 3,000 to 4,000 miles. However, a long trip is the easiest service for the oil and going 6,000 to 8,000 miles between changes while on a cross-country ride is routine. Also, the use of synthetic oils can easily double the oil-change interval. Remember these oil change intervals are for street use bikes. Dirt bike oil change intervals should be substantially more frequent due to a variety of factors.

Will changing the oil even more frequently, like every 1,000 miles, prolong the life of the engine?

Not very likely, because even at 3,000 to 4,000 miles, the oil and additives are not degraded very much. Changing more often just wastes money.


What about the claims that motorcycle-specific oils contain "special polymers which are resistant to breakdown caused by motorcycle transmissions?

Oils usually require the addition of polymers, called VI improvers, to create a multi-viscosity oil, like 10W-40. Whether it is a motorcycle oil or an automotive oil, all polymers are subject to some degradation in the transmission. Full synthetic oils tend to have less polymer than conventional oils and therefore degrade less.


Why are motorcycle oils so much more expensive than automotive oils?

Cost of doing business is higher per quart of motorcycle oil. Large oil companies make so much more product that their profit margin per quart does not have to be so high. That's why the newer motorcycle oils being marketed by some oil companies are only marginally more expensive than their automotive counterparts.


What about the claims by specialty motorcycle oil manufacturers, that their oil is better?

That's a good one. Next time you hear that line, simply ask, "What evidence do you have?" I've never seen any. If you do get any, please let me know! I don't believe that there is any.
Now, armed with all this information, you are ready to make your choice between automotive oil and motorcycle oil. Either will work fine. Your motorcycle probably cannot tell any difference. There are many riders, the author included, who use nothing but good quality automotive motor oils. There also are many who use nothing but motorcycle oils. All indications are that both choices work equally well because motorcycle engines are designed so well that the oil really doesn't make any measurable difference. As long as it meets SG, SH, SJ, or SL service requirements.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Addendum
In the past several years, various reports went around regarding independent studies that showed "automotive" oils that are not energy-conserving (EC) work just as well as motorcycle-specific oil and in many cases better. In former revisions to this article I listed the oils I found locally (Houston, Tx) that were 10w40 and heavier and not energy-conserving. I've discontinued that as it adds little value. All one needs to do is look at the back of the oil container where the lower half of the identification circle will have the words "energy conserving" if it is. Don't use those in wet clutch motorcycle applications, as they may cause clutch slippage. If the lower half of that circle is blank, as all 10w40 and heavier oils should, that means it is NOT energy conserving and should be fine in wet clutch applications.

Heavy-Duty Oils

My favorite oils and the ones I most mostly recommend for motorcycle use, are the "heavy-duty" oils. They are commonly misunderstood, and often referred to as "diesel oils." They are NOT energy conserving, have higher zinc levels, as high as 0.16%, and by virtue of their multi-duty have a better engine protection package than an oil that is only rated "SL". These heavy-duty oils are rated SJ or SL, plus CH-4. They are currently closer in formulation to the motorcycle specific oils and to the "SG" oils that many motorcycle makers recommend. Following are some examples of these oils, generally 15w40 oils by industry convention. There may be several other 15w40 oils that I am not familiar with.


Amsoil Diesel synthetic 15/40 (my personal favorite)
Castrol RX Super 15w40
Castrol Syntec Blend Truck and 4X4 15w40
Chevron Delo 400 15w40
Mobil Delvac 1300 Super 15w40
Pennzoil Long-Life 15w40
Quaker State 4X4 Synthetic Blend 15w40
Shell Rotella-T 15w40
SuperTech 2000 (WalMart) 15w40
Valvoline All Fleet 15w40
Remember! full synthetic for maximum protection.

For years Mobil One 15w50 has been a favorite of motorcyclists. In recent years it has gone from its original formulation to an improved SJ "TriSynthetic", and more recently as SL "SuperSyn." several of us have received conflicting information on this new "flavor" of Mobil One, but the consensus appears to be that the new SuperSyn has additional friction modifiers and may no longer be a good choice for motorcycles. However, I have heard from several VFR owners still using it with favorable results. Therefore, YMMV. Mobil naturally recommends their motorcycle Mobil One.

A fairly new player in the synthetic market is Shell with Rotella-T Full Synthetic 5w40. It is not energy-conserving and according to Shell performs competitively with Mobil Delvac One full synthtetic, which means it offers even more protection than does Mobil One 15w50. A number of motorcyclists have reported to me good results so far with his use of the new Synthetic Rotella-T.

Delvac One should be an excellent motorcycle oil but is generally available only at truck stops or in commercial quantities. For those who may have connections with a long-haul trucking operation, where Delvac One is known to be used in oil change intervals up to 150,000 miles, or even more, you may want to try it if the price is right.

There are a number of other synthetic and semi-synthetic oils available and I have no reason to believe they are in any way inferior. Just follow the advice and use one which is not energy conserving.

Important Note: Be sure and use the recommended viscosity range, e.g. 10w40, 20w50, etc. for the climate in your area. In general, to protect your motor use the heaviest oil you can that still meets the manufacturer's guidelines. For example, 20w50 is better in warm weather than 10w40, because it gives you a thicker oil cushion between bearing surfaces at operating temperature. For racing, a thinner oil will offer less resistance and thus more power, but will offer less protection.

I personally believe in these oils and use nothing else in my motorcycles. As always, you have to make your own, informed decisions.

A Note on Warranties

Since it is generally accepted within the industry that current classifications also meet all older ones, there can legally be no warranty issue. In fact, some oils actually say on the package "SG" in addition to SH , SJ and SL. However, if any of the very newest motorcycles specify oil meeting the new JASO, or other motorcycle-specific oil specifications, and no reference to "SG" or similar automotive specs, then you may have a potential warranty issue so behave accordingly.