One Cylinder not firing consistantly

[Muggzy]

My son and I rebuilt this '97 Banshee. New Pistons/rings/rods/crank. Carbs are stock and were soaked in cleaner before re-assembling.

The left cylinder seems to be running beautifully while the right cylinder doesn't run during idle or only fires occasionally judging from the exhaust temp. I can hold my hand in front of the exhaust for the right and it only feels warm, but the left is so hot I wouldn't dare.

Without thinking about it, I used 87 octane pump fuel (mixed 20:1 fuel-oil). Now I'm concerned that there is a compression problem and that using a higher octane fuel would make it run worse. I don't have a compression gauge available. Any suggestions?

We've ran 87 octane in ours before, it doesn't hurt them. As long as it's not knocking it's fine.

Did you try switching the plug wires? That will take out the electrical factor. If it does the same thing on the same side, then it's not the electrical. If it does the same thing but on the other side, then it's your electrical system. Most likely the coil.

Go do that and let me know what happens.

[Muggzy]

Hello again,

Thanks for the suggestion. I didn't know the ignition wires could be swapped. The problem stayed with the right cylinder. Left one seems to be running strong, but the right, not so much.

My 16yr old has been getting antsy (been working on this project for over a year) so I let him ride it as it is. The right still doesn't fire as much as the left but it seemed to improve. We have even smoke coming out of the left while the smoke coming out of the right is intermittent or lean looking at best.

Also, we replaced the 87 octane with 89 and it seems to run a little rougher with the higher octane fuel. Sounds like a compression problem but the pistons and rings are brand new and the cylinders were just bored to fit. Cool head o-rings are all new too.

Originally posted by Muggzy
Hello again,

Thanks for the suggestion. I didn't know the ignition wires could be swapped. The problem stayed with the right cylinder. Left one seems to be running strong, but the right, not so much.

My 16yr old has been getting antsy (been working on this project for over a year) so I let him ride it as it is. The right still doesn't fire as much as the left but it seemed to improve. We have even smoke coming out of the left while the smoke coming out of the right is intermittent or lean looking at best.

Also, we replaced the 87 octane with 89 and it seems to run a little rougher with the higher octane fuel. Sounds like a compression problem but the pistons and rings are brand new and the cylinders were just bored to fit. Cool head o-rings are all new too.

Did you put the slides in the carbs correctly? As stupid as it sounds, mine ran EXACTLY how you described yours. It sat for 14 years and I bought it as a project to rebuild.

For WEEKS after I got it running.. I didnt understand why it was barely running on one cylinder. It ends up the slides were in the carbs backwards.

The cut-away side of the slides should be towards the intake.

Oh and it wasn't running right on the right cylinder just like yours.

Take a look at the slides.

[Muggzy]

Hey DMC-400EX,

We really appreciate the help you've been giving us. I'm absolutely sure that the slides are in correctly. We can see them with the Air box removed and even through the intake with a flashlight when the filter is out. The slides don't look like they're closed all of the way because of that cut-off on the intake side. We worried about that some when we were rebuilding the carbs - double checked the Clymer manual we have because of it so that's one thing we are sure of.

I was wondering if the reeds (or a bad one) could do this?

Another symptom we've been ignoring for now is that the choke has to be halfway out or the engine quits as soon it gets close to idle but the thing starts right up on the first kick and my son was able to put the choke all the way in (off) yesterday. It ran for a little while (30 secs) like this. We were told to wait until its been run a while before adjusting the idle jets since we just rebuilt the entire engine. :confused:

Originally posted by Muggzy
Hey DMC-400EX,

We really appreciate the help you've been giving us. I'm absolutely sure that the slides are in correctly. We can see them with the Air box removed and even through the intake with a flashlight when the filter is out. The slides don't look like they're closed all of the way because of that cut-off on the intake side. We worried about that some when we were rebuilding the carbs - double checked the Clymer manual we have because of it so that's one thing we are sure of.

I was wondering if the reeds (or a bad one) could do this?

Another symptom we've been ignoring for now is that the choke has to be halfway out or the engine quits as soon it gets close to idle but the thing starts right up on the first kick and my son was able to put the choke all the way in (off) yesterday. It ran for a little while (30 secs) like this. We were told to wait until its been run a while before adjusting the idle jets since we just rebuilt the entire engine. :confused:

I never thought about the reeds, that's a good possibility. You can try switching them around and see if the problem persists on the other side. The reeds WILL do that if they are bad. If you need another reed valve I think I have a stock one sitting around. I'll have to look.

But to rule out the carbs and tuning situation. It's not true that you shouldn't adjust the idle when it's just rebuilt. That was the first thing I did, actually.
To make sure your carbs are 100% accurate.

Are you running any modifications? Stock carbs? Whats the jetting if it is modded? Are the carbs in sync? Air/Fuel screw setting?

I'm assuming stock carbs and stock engine/exhaust. In this case, are the carbs in sync'd? If not I can guide you through on how to sync them, it's pretty simple.
You should be able to hear the carbs "clack" when you let of the throttle. When they bottom out. Once you adjust the cables so they both do that, then comes the sync. There are little windows on the carbs, the right side of each carb. When you press the throttle to wide open, you have to adjust the cables until you see the little "ping" dot in each window centered. When you're done doing that your carbs are sync'd. Just double check to make sure they go up at the same time.

Then you can adjust the idle. I simply did that by adjusting the cable by the thumb throttle.

Also, I noticed you said you are running 20:1 gas mixture. That is a super rich mix. You should be mixing the gas at 32:1 and I recomend using a quality synthetic 2-stroke oil. (Mobile1, Maxima Super M, Fuch's ester synthetic blend, etc)

Yamalube is crap and pretty much most of the oils out there suck. I know my banshee runs noticably worse when the gas is mixed wrong or I use cheap oil like yamalube and havoline.

So do like I said with the oil and mixture, and give me ALL the specs on modifications and jetting/carb settings. That will help me out much more:)

[01shee]

Screw the air fuel screw out a little. Running with the choke on means it is lean. After 2 full turns out if thats not enough bump the pilot up one. That will help with the idle. Changing the plugs might help with the right side not firing. When i bought a banshee that was "blown" it was a bad plug replaced the plug ran great.

Originally posted by 01shee
Screw the air fuel screw out a little. Running with the choke on means it is lean. After 2 full turns out if thats not enough bump the pilot up one. That will help with the idle. Changing the plugs might help with the right side not firing. When i bought a banshee that was "blown" it was a bad plug replaced the plug ran great.

No, it's the opposite. When you turn the air screw in it makes it richer. When you turn it out it makes it even more lean.

I'm running stock pilots on mine still, so it's lean, so I have to run the air-screws all the way in so it doesn't starve for fuel until I buy some new pilots. When I turn them out the engine hesitates because of the lack of fuel.

[01shee]

Your right when it screwed in it reduces the amount of air and richens the mixture.

[Muggzy]

OK,

Everything I know about the set-up is as follows:
'97 YFZ350J Banshee
Cool Head w/22cc Domes
Boost bottle between manifolds
Wiseco .065 over bore Pistons
Hot Rod Crank
Stock Carbs with #200 Main Jet and
the jet needle clip in middle (pos. 3)
Procircuit Platinum Exhaust

At the moment I'm using up the remainder of the 89 octane that is now mixed with oil @ 24:1 (Owner's manual said 24:1 for Yamalube R and 20:1 for Castrol R30). I'm skittish about 32:1 since I don't know how my oldest son blew the engine in the first place and everywhere I look people are talking about rebuilding blown engines for this thing. I'll get 93 octane and synthetic oil tomorrow.

We confirmed that the carbs are sync'd and that the initial setting on the Pilot air screws are 2 turns. Just like the owner's manual says are "standard settings" for our elevation - 900ft.

I knew the thing was idling lean because the choke needed to stay half on. Thanks for confirming the direction of the pilot air screws. I was (am) reluctant to try to adjust the idle air screw when only the left cylinder is doing most of the work but here's what happened when we adjusted them;

With the engine idling, I'd close the screws 1/4 turn at a time each and then slowly push the choke in. As is typical when opening a choke the engine RPMs went up but near the end would begin to stall. I got the choke all the way in with the air mix screws down to about 1t open but the engine was reving *really* high. As I was dropping the air, the right exhaust began to match the left so we got pretty happy about it. But when we tried to shut it off to check on adjusting the idle RPMs it wouldn't shut off. **The shut off switch on the handle bar did nothing** So I pulled the choke *all* the way back out and eventually it shut down. Does this sound like an extreme case of pre-ignition? That's why I'm thinkn we should up the octane to 93 or 95?

Another question, there's a large idle speed adjustment screw on the air intake side of each T.O.R.S. body but adjusting these in either direction only increased the idle speed to screaming. If the throttle slides are all the way down will these be able to reduce the idle speed?

Don't hesitate to correct me on anything I just said or suspect. I have very little experience with two stroke engines but I'm willing to learn.

Thanks again for the advice!

[Muggzy]

Oh yeah, I didn't get to swap the reeds yet. You're right to try tuning everything we can first.

Originally posted by Muggzy
OK,

Everything I know about the set-up is as follows:
'97 YFZ350J Banshee
Cool Head w/22cc Domes
Boost bottle between manifolds
Wiseco .065 over bore Pistons
Hot Rod Crank
Stock Carbs with #200 Main Jet and
the jet needle clip in middle (pos. 3)
Procircuit Platinum Exhaust

At the moment I'm using up the remainder of the 89 octane that is now mixed with oil @ 24:1 (Owner's manual said 24:1 for Yamalube R and 20:1 for Castrol R30). I'm skittish about 32:1 since I don't know how my oldest son blew the engine in the first place and everywhere I look people are talking about rebuilding blown engines for this thing. I'll get 93 octane and synthetic oil tomorrow.

We confirmed that the carbs are sync'd and that the initial setting on the Pilot air screws are 2 turns. Just like the owner's manual says are "standard settings" for our elevation - 900ft.

I knew the thing was idling lean because the choke needed to stay half on. Thanks for confirming the direction of the pilot air screws. I was (am) reluctant to try to adjust the idle air screw when only the left cylinder is doing most of the work but here's what happened when we adjusted them;

With the engine idling, I'd close the screws 1/4 turn at a time each and then slowly push the choke in. As is typical when opening a choke the engine RPMs went up but near the end would begin to stall. I got the choke all the way in with the air mix screws down to about 1t open but the engine was reving *really* high. As I was dropping the air, the right exhaust began to match the left so we got pretty happy about it. But when we tried to shut it off to check on adjusting the idle RPMs it wouldn't shut off. **The shut off switch on the handle bar did nothing** So I pulled the choke *all* the way back out and eventually it shut down. Does this sound like an extreme case of pre-ignition? That's why I'm thinkn we should up the octane to 93 or 95?

Another question, there's a large idle speed adjustment screw on the air intake side of each T.O.R.S. body but adjusting these in either direction only increased the idle speed to screaming. If the throttle slides are all the way down will these be able to reduce the idle speed?

Don't hesitate to correct me on anything I just said or suspect. I have very little experience with two stroke engines but I'm willing to learn.

Thanks again for the advice!

Woah woah woah. There's your problem. I'm surprised you didn't blow it up yet.

Pipes do a HUGE difference on banshee's, and 200 is the stock size main. You are running tremendously lean and I would stop running it immediately before you do any damage. With aftermarket pipes your main jets should be around 270-280 and the pilots should be 27.5's with the airscrews about two turns out.

When two-strokes run lean they scream. And that's also why it dies out without the choke, it's so lean it's literally starving for fuel down low so it doesn't want to stay running.
Forget about the idle adjustment's on the TORS box. Make sure they go down all the way and "clack" then just adjust it from the cable by the throttle.

So before you do anything go pick up some 270 mains, 27.5 pilots, and turn the air screws to 2 turns out. Then let us know how it runs.

Oh, and if its any indication,

I run just pipes and reeds on mine, with 270 main jets, with stock pilots. Even mine, with the air-screws on the richest setting, has trouble idling when its cold and has a slight hesitation off the very bottom.
But I pull the air-box lid recently so Im gonna put some 290 mains in it with 27.5 pilots.

[Muggzy]

Wow thanks!

That's probably why my oldest son burned the thing up shortly after he bought it years ago. It was set up this way when he got it and none of us knew any better. Apparently, neither did the guy he bought it from 'cause he'd just had it rebuilt himself.

I started digging to try and find the main jets and pilot jets and I found this document you might be interested in if you don't already have it:
The Mikuni VM Carb Super tuning Manual (http://www.pjmotorsports.com/PDF%20Files/vmmanual.pdf)
After skimming this manual, I worried that I may have to tune even more parts to get it right; like the needle and valves too. Thought about going back to stock exhaust but then saw the cost :eek2:

So from what I can figure out, I need a 4/042 style main jet (pn 004-111 for #270) Mikuni Main Jets (http://www.sudco.com/mikuni_mj1.html#4042-fits%20needle%20jet)
But sure about the pilot jet. This carb - VM26SS isn't too easy to identify, I can only find a list for the VM22;
Mikuni Pilot Jets (http://www.sudco.com/mikuni_pj.html#vm22210). Are they the same?

Your last post is somewhat reassuring. Based on your experience, should I just go for the #280 main?

I'm trying to ID the part numbers so I can try a local shop that might be big enough to have these in stock. I'm not sure if their parts counter guy knows enough to help with this. If not, I'll probably need the numbers to order on-line from C&D Racing anyway.

Originally posted by Muggzy
Wow thanks!

That's probably why my oldest son burned the thing up shortly after he bought it years ago. It was set up this way when he got it and none of us knew any better. Apparently, neither did the guy he bought it from 'cause he'd just had it rebuilt himself.

I started digging to try and find the main jets and pilot jets and I found this document you might be interested in if you don't already have it:
The Mikuni VM Carb Super tuning Manual (http://www.pjmotorsports.com/PDF%20Files/vmmanual.pdf)
After skimming this manual, I worried that I may have to tune even more parts to get it right; like the needle and valves too. Thought about going back to stock exhaust but then saw the cost :eek2:

So from what I can figure out, I need a 4/042 style main jet (pn 004-111 for #270) Mikuni Main Jets (http://www.sudco.com/mikuni_mj1.html#4042-fits%20needle%20jet)
But sure about the pilot jet. This carb - VM26SS isn't too easy to identify, I can only find a list for the VM22;
Mikuni Pilot Jets (http://www.sudco.com/mikuni_pj.html#vm22210). Are they the same?

Your last post is somewhat reassuring. Based on your experience, should I just go for the #280 main?

I'm trying to ID the part numbers so I can try a local shop that might be big enough to have these in stock. I'm not sure if their parts counter guy knows enough to help with this. If not, I'll probably need the numbers to order on-line from C&D Racing anyway.

The stock exhaust, if you buy off ebay, is really cheap. But the banshee's just feel like fast blasters with the stock pipes haha.

I get jets from two places,

www.jetsrus.com You can look up jets by specific model of quad. So you go to banshee then get the mikuni 270, or 280 if you wish (A little rich never hurt anything)
You can also get the pilots from them. Plus they have a LOT of info on jetting and such.

Other than that, if you pull the stock jets out and bring them to the dealer, they can match them up and find you bigger jets. They are also usually the cheapest. My dealers gives me jets for free occasionally.

With tuning the banshee, there's only a couple vital components. You don't need to worry about the rest.

Main Jets
Pilot Jets
Air/Fuel Screws
Needle Clip Position

Almost everybody leaves the needle clip stock (including me) and it works really well there. (stock is in the middle)

Then the jets for a closed airbox are anywhere from 270-280. It will take a little fine tuning because all pipes are different.
Pilots for closed box are around 25-27.5

If you run the airbox lid open (which makes a worlds difference in power) You should be around 290-310 on the mains and 27.5 on the pilots.
Airscrews you just wait to adjust after you put the jets in because all bikes are different.

Good luck and let me know how she runs :)

Oh and all the Yamaha dealers should have the jets. Like I said though, they're too lazy to look it up on their computers so you have to bring in the stock jets to match them up.

[Muggzy]

Ok,
:D every time you reply we learn something new. You've mentioned opening your airbox lid before but it never clicked. The top of our air box has been drilled out with lots of BIG holes so we should probably go to #300 mains and #27.5 pilots and that ought to do it huh?

Thanks Again!

George and Tyler

[Muggzy]

Oh yeah,

While we're buying jets, I probably ought to get a size up and one down from the #300 just in case. Do you think we should skip a step and buy like 280s and 310s or just get the next step up and down.

Actually, it seems we should be able to adjust the needle clips - easier to get at than the jets - and it seems that's what the manufacturer intended. What do you think?

Originally posted by Muggzy
Ok,
:D every time you reply we learn something new. You've mentioned opening your airbox lid before but it never clicked. The top of our air box has been drilled out with lots of BIG holes so we should probably go to #300 mains and #27.5 pilots and that ought to do it huh?

Thanks Again!

George and Tyler


Haha im all for helping out a fellow banshee owner!

I believe at your altitude, a 290 would be sufficient. But I am not entirely sure on that one. I would start at 300, and work from there. If it seems a little too rich then go a little leaner. If it's too lean go richer. I don't know for sure on exactly what main you will end up with, as like I said all elevations and pipes are different. But you will be damn close. haha. Once you're in the ball park its a lot easier to tune, plus you won't have to worry about blowing it up.
And yeah, for open/modified lid I would definitely try 27.5's.

I'm not too shabby for a 15 year old huh? lol. I can't say it's all me though, over the years I have learned a lot from my father and some of the guys over on hillclimbers forum.

Oh by the way, your banshee will SUCK on gas when you're done. Even with 270's, thats 540 jets worth of fuel everytime you hit WOT.

My tank dissapears like that. haha. You might want to invest in a larger aftermarket tank as ugly as they are.

Eric

Originally posted by Muggzy
Oh yeah,

While we're buying jets, I probably ought to get a size up and one down from the #300 just in case. Do you think we should skip a step and buy like 280s and 310s or just get the next step up and down.

Actually, it seems we should be able to adjust the needle clips - easier to get at than the jets - and it seems that's what the manufacturer intended. What do you think?

I would buy 280's, 290's, and 300's. I doubt you will need to go higher then 300, as you aren't that high above sea level.

You can adjust the needle clips, but it will never run right. Stock is the best position on the banshee's oddly enough. When you adjust it richer, at least on mine, it likes to spit and sputter in the mid-range a little.
Plus the needle won't change 3/4-WOT and idle to 1/4. You will run super lean on top and still risk damaging the motor over a period of time.
The main jet also changes the general amount of fuel from 1/4-WOT, because where the needle comes out is the main jet. So when the needle raises up it opens up where the main jet is so the fuel can flow through it. It's hard to explain on the computer.

Any updates?

By the way, I remembered this jetting/tuning FAQ from another site. It's REALLY informative and not nearly as complicated as the one you posted.

I don't agree with everything in there though, like the jetting recomendations. 340 is overkill for just pipes and open lid.

But check it out when you get a chance.

http://www.dfn.com/benkaren/jetfaq.html

[Muggzy]

Hey Eric,

I ordered the 300, 290 and 280's with the 27.5 like you suggested. The shop near me that handles Yamaha has a very limited supply of mains and no pilot jets. Between the shipping time and a short trip we have to make at the end of the week, you probably won't hear from us until Mon. or Tues. of next week. Thanks for the link I'll read through it tonight.

The fact that the two cylindars were running so differently is still nagging at me though.

We'll definitely get back to you.

Thanks for all the help!

George and Tyler

Originally posted by Muggzy
The fact that the two cylindars were running so differently is still nagging at me though.

Well if it still does it after the jetting, at least with the tuning being much better it will be easier to diagnose the problem.:D

I'll be hearing from ya then. I myself am going on vacation to Vermont from Wednesday until Sunday.
Eric

[Muggzy]

...at least with the tuning being much better it will be easier to diagnose the problem.

Right you are. Enjoy Vermont!

[Muggzy]

Hey Eric!

We learned a few more things since we last spoke. If I'm right, this 'shee we've got has been ported and has Boysen reeds. As I've was reading through all the Jetting Q&A you linked me to, I remembered that the intake sides of the cylinders looked ground out. At the time I assumed that the guy who did the cylinder honing after the seized piston just ground the carbon off the intakes but that's probably not the case. Also the reed cages aren't quite the same as the pics in the Clymer's manual we're working from and there's a Boysen sticker on the plastics (How someone could do all this stuff and not know enough to re-jet blows my mind) So anyway I went with 320 mains to start. So here's the latest;

We put 27.5 pilot and 320 main jets in and started the air screw at 1.5 turns. Started right up on one or two kicks too with no choke right after we reassembled the carbs AND the cylinders appear to be running evenly!!

Still not right though. We adjusted the air screws and they are at 1.25T open for the most reliable idle - pretty even but *maybe* a little slow.

Initially, I thought it might be idling too rich because it started up without the choke, and I tried slowly pulling the choke out to test the idea - it stalled out immediately. So I first tried OPENING the air screws but it wouldn't idle reliably - got slow and stalled. Anyway, now that it's idling well at 1.25T, if we open the throttle very slowly, it shuts down abruptly. If we open the throttle a little faster it gets over this point and runs pretty well over the rest of of the throttle. I think this initial *dead zone* is within the first 1/8th throttle though.

What do you think?

Originally posted by Muggzy
Hey Eric!

We learned a few more things since we last spoke. If I'm right, this 'shee we've got has been ported and has Boysen reeds. As I've was reading through all the Jetting Q&A you linked me to, I remembered that the intake sides of the cylinders looked ground out. At the time I assumed that the guy who did the cylinder honing after the seized piston just ground the carbon off the intakes but that's probably not the case. Also the reed cages aren't quite the same as the pics in the Clymer's manual we're working from and there's a Boysen sticker on the plastics (How someone could do all this stuff and not know enough to re-jet blows my mind) So anyway I went with 320 mains to start. So here's the latest;

We put 27.5 pilot and 320 main jets in and started the air screw at 1.5 turns. Started right up on one or two kicks too with no choke right after we reassembled the carbs AND the cylinders appear to be running evenly!!

Still not right though. We adjusted the air screws and they are at 1.25T open for the most reliable idle - pretty even but *maybe* a little slow.

Initially, I thought it might be idling too rich because it started up without the choke, and I tried slowly pulling the choke out to test the idea - it stalled out immediately. So I first tried OPENING the air screws but it wouldn't idle reliably - got slow and stalled. Anyway, now that it's idling well at 1.25T, if we open the throttle very slowly, it shuts down abruptly. If we open the throttle a little faster it gets over this point and runs pretty well over the rest of of the throttle. I think this initial *dead zone* is within the first 1/8th throttle though.

What do you think?

Glad to hear! If the porting is done right, that thing will rip:cool:

Now about the bottom, it sounds like yes you have it on the rich side. It's normal for a banshee to start without the choke if it's jetted right, both mine and my fathers do that.

But you're going to want to turn the screws to 2 or 2.5. That will lean out the mixture down low and most likely get rid of that bog. After you adjust the screws to there, play with the throttle cable up by the thumb throttle to raise the idle.

And that should be it:D If the hesitation gets worse when you turn the screws out more, then you may actually have to go to a 30 jet. Sometimes when the bottom is a hair lean, it will create a slight hesitation because it's starving for fuel right when you hit the throttle.

So try what I said by turning them to 2, then 2.5, and adjust the idle by the throttle cable and see what you get.

[Muggzy]

Eric YOU ARE THE MAN :bandit:

I originally tried opening the air screws 1/4 turn from 1.5 but the idle got rougher and it stalled, so I went back the other way. Going straight to 2 turns as you suggested did the trick, didn't even have to adjust the throttle cable.

Due to the relatively small area we're able to ride in at the moment, WOT is impossible to hold for more than a few seconds but seems OK. I ran it down the street in front of my house a couple of times and for as long as I could hold full throttle (still only a few seconds longer) it seemed OK. I can't do that again - neighbors don't appreciate it. I was looking for it to "bog" a little but it didn't. So we can't tell for sure that we are a jet size down from a little rich. How noticeable would it be?

What do you think about tuning our way *up* the throttle range and instead of doing the main jetsdoing the needles next since I can't really give it a good WOT run just yet?
It *might* have been a little irregular at mid throttle in 5th and 6th gear, but it's really hard to say. I suppose I could try lifting the clips on the needles one notch and see how that plays out. I wish I knew someone local that had more experience to listen to/ride it for me.

Btw - this thing hauls @$$. We squeeze the throttle and it feels like the thing is leaving without us!

Anyway, I'll have to get a hitch and trailer now so we can take it somewhere with more room to open it up.

I'll ride it some more tomorrow and see if I can give you a better description of what it's doing.

Thanks Again,
George and Tyler

Originally posted by Muggzy
Eric YOU ARE THE MAN :bandit:

I originally tried opening the air screws 1/4 turn from 1.5 but the idle got rougher and it stalled, so I went back the other way. Going straight to 2 turns as you suggested did the trick, didn't even have to adjust the throttle cable.

Due to the relatively small area we're able to ride in at the moment, WOT is impossible to hold for more than a few seconds but seems OK. I ran it down the street in front of my house a couple of times and for as long as I could hold full throttle (still only a few seconds longer) it seemed OK. I can't do that again - neighbors don't appreciate it. I was looking for it to "bog" a little but it didn't. So we can't tell for sure that we are a jet size down from a little rich. How noticeable would it be?

What do you think about tuning our way *up* the throttle range and instead of doing the main jetsdoing the needles next since I can't really give it a good WOT run just yet?
It *might* have been a little irregular at mid throttle in 5th and 6th gear, but it's really hard to say. I suppose I could try lifting the clips on the needles one notch and see how that plays out. I wish I knew someone local that had more experience to listen to/ride it for me.

Btw - this thing hauls @$$. We squeeze the throttle and it feels like the thing is leaving without us!

Anyway, I'll have to get a hitch and trailer now so we can take it somewhere with more room to open it up.

I'll ride it some more tomorrow and see if I can give you a better description of what it's doing.

Thanks Again,
George and Tyler

No problem, maybe in the future if you're ever down in PA you guys can head out to the coal mines with us. They're AWESOME and have so many wide open areas where you can really lay into the throttle:devil:

But yeah, ride it some more and get a better feel for it. It would be a lot easier to tell if it will have to be adjusted more. But glad to hear it's running a lot better!
If you have a decent camera, maybe you can possibly film it running and someone hammering on it so I can hear the engine. I know a healthy banshee when I hear it.:D

Oh and if it's running rich, it will smoke blue a lot. It's normal to smoke a lot when it's warming up, but when it's fully warmed up it shouldn't smoke.

So how did it work out?

[Muggzy]

Hey Eric,

Sorry for the delayed response but we had a LOT of rain and my router has been down. Anyway, thanks for the invite you're only an hour and a half or so away so we may take you up on it. We're working on getting a trailer now - you'll see why when you see the video. We don't have enough room for this thing. It's like living in a small apartment with a Great Dane.:)

Tried to get you're email address off your profile to send you the video but you have that blocked. The video is too big for the forum and I'm not sure your server will allow it either - 89Meg video. If you can send me an email to george@mugno.org I'll try to send you the video it's under 2 minutes but maybe you can tell if it needs more or less main jet if you hear/see it. I'm thinking it needs to go up from 320 but without anyplace to open it up...?

Once I get that trailer we ought to be able to find a place nearby.

Originally posted by Muggzy
Hey Eric,

Sorry for the delayed response but we had a LOT of rain and my router has been down. Anyway, thanks for the invite you're only an hour and a half or so away so we may take you up on it. We're working on getting a trailer now - you'll see why when you see the video. We don't have enough room for this thing. It's like living in a small apartment with a Great Dane.:)

Tried to get you're email address off your profile to send you the video but you have that blocked. The video is too big for the forum and I'm not sure your server will allow it either - 89Meg video. If you can send me an email to george@mugno.org I'll try to send you the video it's under 2 minutes but maybe you can tell if it needs more or less main jet if you hear/see it. I'm thinking it needs to go up from 320 but without anyplace to open it up...?

Once I get that trailer we ought to be able to find a place nearby.

Yeah definitely, we're always up for more riders in the crew. The coalmine is that kind of place where you can constantly pin it and hit 6th gear here and there. I'll let you know the next time we head out to the coalmine.

I'll shoot you an email right now for the vid. What's easier though, it if you don't have one make a photobucket account. You can upload the video to photobucket and send me the link, that's what I do.