Electrical issue again!!!!!!!!

[proctorbc2005]

I am not getting spark........again.

I pulled the coil and spark plug both work just fine in another bike.

The bike will not start on its own, but will pull start, and run all day long.

This is strange, and does not make sense, what would cause no spark, but still allow the bike to be pull started by popping the clutch.

I have read up on the "tors" what exactly is it. I do not have the stock carb, to the wires (2 plugs) previously connected to the carb are just hanging, should I have locked them out by splicing the wires together.

Additional info, the head lights will not work at all, in fact one went super brite, and burned out. Tail light still works fine.

Any ideas????????

[BrettOaktree]

check your stator

[proctorbc2005]

Sorry, The stator is brand new, I just replaced it a week ago when I had the exact same issues.

[BrettOaktree]

oh, did ya replace ur cdi box, ive heard of cdi boxes acting up on various quads, that would be my next guess but im not too good with electrical issues but im sure someone else on here can help ya

[ae13291]

have you checked the wiring to the starter butten? maybe its broken on the off position. it could also be the 2 wires that are coming out of your throttle cover and go to the carb. if im not mistaken, if those are not connected together the engine will not get spark

[proctorbc2005]

The bike cranks just fine, it will not start, because it is not getting spark.

Ill look at the starter button, the "off" position thing could be a cause. I doubt it tho, I never move the switch, I start/stop teh bike with the key only.

I have tried 3 diffrent CDI boxes, same condition with each box.

The 2 wires for the TORS (plug that used to be attached to the carb) have never been twisted together in the past, but on a whim, I clipped them and twisted them together, nothing.

I have another voltage regulator on order, should have it Friday.

What about the wires running from the thumb throttle, there is a small switch in there, could that be an issue. I replaced my throttle cable just before these issues started? Could that little switch be bad.

[miles Machine]

That little switch in the throttle is part of the tors...youve already connected the wires near the carb so your all set...however that wouldn't affect your starting...you said the headlight got super bright and burnt out...ive seen were the voltage regulator/rectifier unit does not regulate the the amount of voltage to the system and scrambles the cdi,among burning other things out. The easiest way to test it is get it running and check your charging system voltage at the batter with a multimeter...idling it should be right around 13 to slightly under 13 volts. rev it up to about 3 grand and it shouldnt go over 14 volts maybe a lil more ...if it does your voltage regulator is the problem

[proctorbc2005]

Originally posted by miles Machine
That little switch in the throttle is part of the tors...youve already connected the wires near the carb so your all set...however that wouldn't affect your starting...you said the headlight got super bright and burnt out...ive seen were the voltage regulator/rectifier unit does not regulate the the amount of voltage to the system and scrambles the cdi,among burning other things out. The easiest way to test it is get it running and check your charging system voltage at the batter with a multimeter...idling it should be right around 13 to slightly under 13 volts. rev it up to about 3 grand and it shouldnt go over 14 volts maybe a lil more ...if it does your voltage regulator is the problem

I would live to be able to get the thing up to 3 grand. But I still cannot get a spark. (guess I could push start) Do you think the voltage regulator shorting could cause it not to have any spark, or could it have burnt up my new stator?? I am at ropes end, I am getting ready to pour gas on the bike and set it on fire.

Is there anything else in the ignition system that could prevent a spark on battery power, but still allow the bike to be push started???

What is the other plug near the carb for, the 3 wire plug, does it need to be shorted out as well? If so which wire to which?

I am willing to try voodoo chicken bones, magic 8 ball, tarot cards, pixi dust, crystal ball, Congressional bail out plan............................Anything.......... ...anything at all.

[ae13291]

the 3 wire plug on the carb is the tps, that is not needed, it will run unplugged just fine. do you have a kill switch on the bike? and what wires is it connected to? i hear if the kill switch is connected to the orange coil wire, that will burn the coil. but your bike starts when you push i so i dont thin thats the issue. man i wish i could help you out more, you seem in a pretty screwed up situation. hope you get it fixed soon

[proctorbc2005]

There is no kill switch installed. I will be getting a new stator, voltage regulatorr, and CDI unit today, hopefully, replacing these components fixes the issue. If not I just wasted $600.

[Ride1Rob]

I you haven't already... Check that stator as suggested earleir. Just because you replaced it doesn't mean that something came loose. I've seen those wires mangled to hell which causes these same issues. Just a suggestion.

[mbx5]

I am having some weird issues too... Started off that the lights quit working... then the neutral light intermittantly come on and off when in neutral....sometimes if I pull in the clutch the lights come on....wtf?

Check the connection on the neutral switch by the shifter... pull it off, and take an alligator clip and connect it to ground on the frame somewhere and try that....

[KENNY HEMMINGS]

Originally posted by mbx5
I am having some weird issues too... Started off that the lights quit working... then the neutral light intermittantly come on and off when in neutral....sometimes if I pull in the clutch the lights come on....wtf?

Check the connection on the neutral switch by the shifter... pull it off, and take an alligator clip and connect it to ground on the fra
me somewhere and try that....

You've got a wire problem had the same thing happen on a 06
when neutral light is on quad will crank, when its not it want hit a
lick, pull your left shroud off and split the wiring apart near the front of the tank look for a red wire that splits into 2 red wires, the problem on mine was where the 3 wires junctioned together.

[daddio]

Yes.......... it's time to strip your wire harness and inspect it for damage, clean the wires and re-tape it up.

[mbx5]

The neutral switch on mine tested good...so did the wire itself all the way up the harness...I can get neutral light to come on if I ground out the connection...so me thinks that the detent in the tranny is bad since the switch itself works, and the wire wrung out good all the way back to where it joins up in the harness.....

As for the lights after troubleshooting the steps in the manual, it seems like the rectifier is bad - which would explain the buzzing of the relays - I was told the relays would buzz if under powered... The relays tested fine....however when I check the voltage to the lights its at like .01vdc....

However from my testing (and trust me I am a noob at this) - it seems the bike runs just fine without the rectifier hooked up so that may not be your problem, but as someone else already posted the rectifier could have sent a spike to the CDI..?

Seems the electrical on the YFZ's is a bit of a PIA...

[miles Machine]

well i looked at the wiring diagram on a 05 yfz the power supply from the stator goes un rectified to the lights...meaning there ac powered so they prolly are dim at idle and get brighter when reved up...correct me if im wrong but ive never worked or payed that much attention to a yfz lol...but considering that your lights burnt out i bet you have a short in the stator or the wiring in the harness.


let us know

[proctorbc2005]

I finally figured out what was causing my problem. One of the bolts that connect the flywheel to the one way bearing backed out, and shreaded the stator. The thing was completly destroyed, best part, the head of the bolt broke off, and gouged up the inside of the fly wheel.

So now I need a new stator, fly wheel, one way bearing, flywheel puller, and attaching hardware. Over $500 in replacement parts.

This all could have been avoided with a little loc-tight ($3 a tube).

Moral of the story, follow the directions in your service manual, and apply lubes, and sealents where they are called for. Lesson learned.


Tube of loc-tight----------$3
Parts to fix my bike-------$500 +
Learning from my mistake------priceless

[miles Machine]

well im glad to see my answer was right...not glad to see you have to spend that much money to fix it tho...but if you ever need any tech advice you can just pm me if you want

[proctorbc2005]

The guy who built my engine is assuming 100% of the cost. I told him what happened, and he offered freely to pay for the parts to fix it. He said it was his fault, so he should have to pay for the repairs.

A silver lining to the dark cloud. I guess there are still a few honest people in this world.

[michaelopfer]

ur lucky... i don't think there is one shop around here who will back up there work like yours.. I rode a 300ex 2 times after it was built.. and the piston went over the sleave and pulled it down into the bottom end.. he was gonna charge us another 1500 dollars to fix it again... screw that... like I said... ur lucky...

[proctorbc2005]

I did not get lucky, the guy who did all my engine work is a friend of mine, we have been racing together for years. He is very honest, as soon I told him what had happened, he came to my house, picked up the bike, and told me give him 2-3 days and he would make it right.

This is the third bike I have had him do all the work to, and the first I ever had a problem with. He told me at $2k a pop for parts and labor, I should not even have to change my own oil, much less fix something that was his "bone head mistake"

Best part is, he did not do the work thru his business, he did it on his own time at his house, so I guess he could have told me to take a hike, and I would have had to deal with it.

There are honest people out there, you just have to know where to look, and the "major" bike shops are usually not that place.

[mbx5]

Im having freakin issues again!!! I jumped out the neutral switch and it worked great...bike started no problems.... Last week at a race I started just fine to warm up, then killed the engine for the dead-engine-start of the race... Went to start up at the green flag, and NOTHING! W.T.F?

I was pull started and was able to finish the race, but WHYYYYYYY!!!???

Upon taking the quad home and cleaning, I found a cell cover popped off the battery...so, my first reaction was - eh, its a dead battery... So I put in a new battery...and NOTHING!!!! No cranking, nothing!! I can jump across the starter solenoid and it starts... but the starter button does not work!!

I pulled all the connectors, checked them, opened up the starter switch, checked it- all fine...

Could this be CDI related?? No cranking at all!!

So irritating!! I spent all day working on other stuff, then buttoned it all back up thinking I was done....NOPE.... No race for me tomorrow! :(:mad: :mad: :mad: :mad: :mad: :mad: :mad: :mad: :confused: :confused: :confused: :grr: :grr: :grr: :grr:

[proctorbc2005]

If you are jumping the relay, and it starts, then either your 15a fuse is blown, or the relay is bad.
The start button does not work, because you are jumping the relay.

The start button closes the connection accross the relay, allowing power to get to the starter. When the start button is not depressed, the relay and the starter recieve no power, this is so the starter is not still trying to run after the bike is started, this is also why you have a one way gear on the back side of your flywheel, so the motor is not driving the starter while it is running.

In short, if the bike will start by jumping the relay, check the fuses, if they are good, replace the relay.

Here is a link to parts you will need, Item#13

http://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche.com/Alba/Yamaha_OEM/YamahaATV.asp?Type=13&A=290&B=42

You may also be able to fine one on ebay.