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View Full Version : how to relocate your 300ex battery



dirtdawg
07-20-2009, 07:51 PM
This is a cheap way of finally getting that battery out of the fender well.Iit looks much better as well.

Anyway, let's get started. Here is the list of tools you will need to accomplish this:

http://i443.photobucket.com/albums/qq155/trailripper1500/DSCN3135.jpg

3/8 ratchet with 10, 12, and 14 mm sockets

14mm wrench

hack saw

box cutter

2 feet of 4 gauge wire

cable lugs(battery cable connectors)

3 3/8 bolts w/ lock nuts

drill and bits ( don't remember exactly what size

rat tail file

vice grips

phillips head screwdriver

The first step is to remove the stock setup. remove the battery cables with the ratchet and 10 mm socket. Remove battery and plastic box. Once that is out, there are 3 bolts that hold the cage to the frame and two bolts at the top. The 3 bolts at the bottom are 14 mm and the ones on top are 10mm. Remove the cage from the side of the frame.

Second, line up the wire cage to the back of the airbox and make marks using a sharpie so you will know where to drill. When lining it up, make sure that the upper left bolt will not cause a problem where the airbox contour changes and so the bottom one will have a big enough area to fit. It may seem a little crooked but that is how it's gonna fit.

http://i443.photobucket.com/albums/qq155/trailripper1500/DSCN3133.jpg

Remove the airbox by disconnecting the intake boot and the two frame supports that are attached in front of the airbox by using the phillips screwdriver.

Get out the drill and the right sized drill bits and drill the three holes in the back of the box.

Line up the cage to the back and slip the bolts in. I had to file the holes on the cage because the bolts wouldn't fit.

This is optional, but i used the hacksaw and cut the old mounting wires right at the weld because they would be doing nothing and looked dumb.

Tighten up the cage bolts with the 14 mm wrench and the 3/8 ratchet and 14mm socket. You may want to put washers before the nuts inside the airbox.

Put the plastic box back in the cage. then, put the battery back in. You will have to bend back the tab mount on the back to slip the battery in. Then, put on the bar that holds the battery in the box on top and tighten with the ratchet and 10mm socket.

Remount the airbox with the 10mm bolt on the backside tab. You may need to remove the taillight but i don't have the stock setup. I needed to take mine off but they don't really serve a purpose anyway. Tighten the two frame supports and the intake boot with the phillips screwdriver.

Now you need to make the new positive battery cable. Strip the ends about a 1/4 inch using wire strippers or a box cutter on each side. Save the shield from the old cable for the solenoid side so it won't get dirty or wet. Then, solder or crimp the battery connectors or lugs to both ends of the cable. Make sure they are secure before attaching to the quad.

Attach the solenoid end of the cable using the 14mm nut. I routed the cable so that it went behind the rectifier and brushed up against the side of the airbox, but it is up to you how you want to route it.

Put the square nuts into the battery terminals and tighten the positive cable with a 10mm socket or screwdriver.

Now you need to relocate the ground cable. I connected the battery end of the cable first and then removed the left side bolt that holds the seat latch on. i put the bolt through the eye of the cable connector and then tightened it back down.

http://i443.photobucket.com/albums/qq155/trailripper1500/DSCN3132.jpg

Make sure everything is tight and then turn the key on and see if it works. i had no problems whatsoever.

http://i443.photobucket.com/albums/qq155/trailripper1500/DSCN3136.jpg

final product:

http://i443.photobucket.com/albums/qq155/trailripper1500/DSCN3131.jpg

dirtdawg
07-21-2009, 01:39 PM
You might want to change the bolt that attaches the airbox to the frame (top of picture 3) because it might snap from the weight, but i will let you guys know. If you race you might want to go with a grade eight and a locknut. As long as it's tight it won't have any freeplay and snap. That is probably the only reason why it would snap unless the plastic tab on the box breaks.