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View Full Version : Lets have all those anti-overheating tips in this thread!!



fasterblaster02
06-28-2009, 06:29 PM
I raced today at a harescrambles in Casey, IL. Loved the race, but just when I started getting in a groove, my overtemp light came on and it started purging coolant. I am running Engine Ice and no thermostat with one CV4 hose (the lower hose). By the way, I bought the CV4 hoses that delete the thermostat and the upper one rubs a plastic mount bolt on the 2009 model, even though they list it as OK for 09s. Anyway I would like to know what everyone uses to keep the heat down on their motors. Does anyone use the Zip-ty waterless coolant? I looked at my radiator and the front of it you cannot even see the fins, and this wasnt really that muddy of a race. Thanks for all the help!

sleddog66
06-29-2009, 04:34 AM
To keep mud off the radiator, either put a cheap furnace filter in front of radiator, or stretch some panty hose over the front. Also run a oil cooler on your machine should lower temps a bit. Also be sure you are not jetted too lean.

fasterblaster02
07-14-2009, 08:08 PM
well i am having trouble again and really need some help. i did the furnace filter thing and it kept the radiator clean, but it still overheats even with a clean radiator. I am pretty sure that it is not jetted too lean, i need to check the plug tommorrow. Has anyone used the zip ty waterless coolant. It is guaranteed not to boil over, but i wonder if you are just running hotter fluid through your motor. I would love to run an oil cooler but they are out of my budget right now. Also has anyone had better luck running the thermostat than without it?

GE4x4
07-15-2009, 03:52 AM
Purged the air from what the manual says, then tighten bolt. Then lift the side of the atv where the rad cap is about a foot. Take cap off and start the quad and let it run 10-15 min. You'll be suprised how much air bubble come out. My 09 light came on just over a hr of racing. Put Watter Wetter in and bleed the system the way I mentioned. Have had 2 full 2 hrs races since and the hottest my quad got was 207 degrees and no lights. And I still have the thermostat stat and bypass still on.

TYLER329
07-15-2009, 11:38 AM
I can't stress enough how important it is to take out the radiator, lay it over a 5 gallon bucket and wash it out with a garden hose (low pressure) after every race.I never used to listen when people said this because I sprayed water through it when I washed the quad but that just isn't good enough. I run a in line cooler in the bottom line, NAPA cheapo antifreeze, and bypass the line to the bottom of the cylinder and now have no problems. Just raced a 2 hour harescramble on sunday and the light never flashed once, where it used to be on all of the time. The fins in these radiators are much closer spaced than most machines out there and take alot more effort to clean. Hope this helps. One thing to keep in mind is that that light comes on at a really low temp so don't get to freaked out.

SSJEFF
07-28-2009, 01:48 AM
I agree with what Tyler says. You have to pull it out of the quad to get it cleaned once you have it clogged with grit.

Once you do that go try and find a plastic mesh filter material for a humidifier or furnace. The Fiberglass stuff does not work well IMO. I have had no issues since running this type of filter and do not have to take the radiator out anymore to get it cleaned. the filter catches the grit and washes itself out once you go through a watery puddle. I only strap the filter at the top so it hangs in front. This way air can get under it also. Dirt does not go up easily.

Also do as GE4x4 says and make sure you geta ll the air out. there is a purge bolt by the spark plug. this is essential. A lot of guys raise the front up to get all the air out.

somewon
07-28-2009, 08:55 AM
Since I swapped out the standard fan (broke) for an aftermarket fan i bought from summit racing my temp light has never come on. The fan is actually a higher CFM than stock, but fit into the factory bracket with no modification.

The link below i believe is the correct one. I tossed the box after I did the mod so I'm not totally sure. if your planning to do this, measure the existing fan diameter.


http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PRM-19120/

or

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PRM-19128/

marshviewripper
07-29-2009, 07:01 PM
What had to be done for the electrical hookup? Does it suck more juice from the battery?

fasterblaster02
07-30-2009, 08:16 PM
I probably will try the fan sometime, i bled it and definitely got some air out and it only overheated once on me at Hatfield-McCoy, I was happy about that. SSJEFF what exactly do you mean by the plastic filters. I am not sure if I have ever seen them. thanks.

SSJEFF
07-31-2009, 03:34 AM
Originally posted by fasterblaster02
I probably will try the fan sometime, i bled it and definitely got some air out and it only overheated once on me at Hatfield-McCoy, I was happy about that. SSJEFF what exactly do you mean by the plastic filters. I am not sure if I have ever seen them. thanks.

It is a Furnace /humidifier filter that is like a fiberglass furnace filter but made with plastic instead. Instead of strands of fiberglass it is strands of plastic.

you can see it in this picture from last year, I run GBCs now:
http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg101/outlawjeff/P9300043.jpg

somewon
08-01-2009, 08:28 AM
the wires have to be spliced. as the outlaw produces a pretty solid ammount of electrical power there is no drain on the battery.

snowman48
09-16-2009, 10:31 PM
Originally posted by fasterblaster02
Also has anyone had better luck running the thermostat than without it?


i was wondering the same thing, does i work to take it out?? And wats this coolant mod i've heard?? what needs to be done? Any help would be great!!