AMSOIL or OEM ?

[oilguy]

I wanted to start this thread since i dont think there is a set in stone thread out there that has details.

Lets discuss in here the pros and cons of oils.

you can share your testing data of your preffered oil, hopefully we will come to a conclusion latter on on wich is the best for what aplication.

we can break it down by depending on what vehicle


let this thread start

[BEAVER.989]

Who's gonna debate oilguy "The Amsoil Specialist" about oil, honestly? Not me, lol. ;)

[Beaudacious]

i have a question why does Amsoil go clumpy after a month from opening the container no one can give me a straight answer thanks

[ss440ex]

.......Motul 300v.......

[oilguy]

Originally posted by BEAVER.989
Who's gonna debate oilguy "The Amsoil Specialist" about oil, honestly? Not me, lol. ;)



no man ,, thats the whole purpose of this thread is to ensure we get an educative conversation.

BEAVER, AMSOIL is a great product but remember there are other great products out there.

[oilguy]

Originally posted by Beaudacious
i have a question why does Amsoil go clumpy after a month from opening the container no one can give me a straight answer thanks

i have never seen this in person and this is the first time i have heard this in years.

if you have some data or pictures we will appreciate,,, that is whole purpose of this thread to educate everyone.

[BakerRacing40]

i've always use bell ray thumper oil in my 4 strokes... it's served me well for the past 7 years or so..

[oilguy]

Originally posted by ss440ex
.......Motul 300v.......


Why?

back it up with some real world testing, data ect....

i can understand that is you personal opinion

[Beaudacious]

The Amsoil i saw that went clumpy was 2 stroke oil for my snowmobile so i drained it out and have ran Bombardier Mineral oil ever since with no problem at all and i have 15000KM and every K was throttle zip tied to the handlebar
In my quad and my race truck for that matter I use Motul 5100
I took my quad engine apart after one season and 750 hours clocked to refreshen it wat a waste of time and money still looked brandnew clearances perfect and no wear mind you i do change the oil every 4 hours religiously
Like OILGUY says there are great products out there i found one and im not about to test to see if i can get better than perfect

[RTJ]

i use AMSOIL and i'm well pleased with it. except one thing. i've used castrol,mobil , shell rotella,and kaw oem. with no problems. i'm not only talkin quads i have a variety of vehicles.now after all that i'm finally to my question. at an average of 4 changes a year X 5 years is AMSOIL enough better to justify the cost difference. times are hard AMSOIL is good but expensive there are alot of good oils for less with just as long change intervals. just my .02

[oilguy]

Originally posted by Beaudacious
The Amsoil i saw that went clumpy was 2 stroke oil for my snowmobile so i drained it out and have ran Bombardier Mineral oil ever since with no problem at all and i have 15000KM and every K was throttle zip tied to the handlebar
In my quad and my race truck for that matter I use Motul 5100
I took my quad engine apart after one season and 750 hours clocked to refreshen it wat a waste of time and money still looked brandnew clearances perfect and no wear mind you i do change the oil every 4 hours religiously
Like OILGUY says there are great products out there i found one and im not about to test to see if i can get better than perfect


Beaudacious

i find this very hard to believe with any synthetic, i can see that with a dyno oil but not with any synthetic.

now another question is was the oil sitting un capped for years ?


this stuff right here has been ran by many race teams and all winners, or at least most

https://www.amsoil.com/StoreFront/images/tdr_qt_300pxh.jpg

[oilguy]

Originally posted by RTJ
i use AMSOIL and i'm well pleased with it. except one thing. i've used castrol,mobil , shell rotella,and kaw oem. with no problems. i'm not only talkin quads i have a variety of vehicles.now after all that i'm finally to my question. at an average of 4 changes a year X 5 years is AMSOIL enough better to justify the cost difference. times are hard AMSOIL is good but expensive there are alot of good oils for less with just as long change intervals. just my .02


well you bring some good points to the table,, is AMSOIL cost effective.

let me use this table for example

http://www.amsoil.com/performancetests/g1971/images/2009/CostComparison_640.jpg

[oilguy]

Originally posted by oilguy
well you bring some good points to the table,, is AMSOIL cost effective.

let me use this table for example

http://www.amsoil.com/performancetests/g1971/images/2009/CostComparison_640.jpg



Keep in mind the table is for the use of the AMSOIL ATM, let me give you my personal experience as an example:

if you ran penzoil= about 20$ per oil change, now you will be changing that oil every 3 thousand miles.

you use AMSOIL ATM that will go for 25,000 miles, now the cost per that oil change in about 40.00$ but you dont change it in about a full year or more.

Penzoil= 20$ per oil change and you have to change it 8 times mean while AMSOIL only gets changed once in those 25k miles.

AMSOIL= 40.00$ per oil change and that is only a one time deal,


to answer your question, you have to choose your battles correctly and ensure you make the propper decisions for your investments,

[RTJ]

if it will go that long between changes (IF YOU SAY IT WILL I BELIEVE YOU) then no doubt it is cheaper. but i've some vehicles i cant see it lasting that long. example: i've a 1968 international harvester 856 tractor . this year i switched to amsoil 15w-40 diesel. i also used the engine flush crankcase cleaner.it hasn't used any but i estimate less than 20 hrs of use it is very black. i'll change it again in the spring regardless. the amsoil 15w-40 with tax and shipping was over $11 a quart including a discount for ordering so much. remember this tractor is 41 yrs old never had any engine work. and never used any oil. here are examples of past oils we used with the same results
case ih #1 engine oil 15w-40 $3.70 a qt +tax
castrol 20w-50 $3.75 a qt +tax
castrol gtx diesel 15w-40 $3.99 a qt + tax
shell rotella 15w-0 $3.50 a qt +tax
tax in my state is 6%. these do not include the ones my dad used before i remember. it holds 12 qts and has been changed once a year for 41 years
these oils average 3.96 with tax 11.50- 3.96=7.54x12=90.48x41=3709.68

[ccdhowell]

Here's a new twist...can I run Amsoil's new racing oils in my XC Raptor? I ran for a while Red Line's Racing 40wt with nice results but the level of moly in the oil left the clutch feeling a little soft. Can the Amsoil racing oils give me the ultimate protection and great clutch feel too?

[oilguy]

Originally posted by ccdhowell
Here's a new twist...can I run Amsoil's new racing oils in my XC Raptor? I ran for a while Red Line's Racing 40wt with nice results but the level of moly in the oil left the clutch feeling a little soft. Can the Amsoil racing oils give me the ultimate protection and great clutch feel too?


AMSOIL has been used by many pro racers and by many enthusiast in this racing and hobby community.

so of course is perfectly fine , i am confident that AMSOIL will outperform alot of other oils out there.

let me now if you have any specific questions about what is the right oil for what applicaion, this way we can keep this thread on topic and technical

[RTJ]

i don't mean to bash AMSOIL it's a great oil (maybe the best ) and i'll continue to use it .i just meant certain situations it's not always the most economical

[oilguy]

Originally posted by RTJ
i don't mean to bash AMSOIL it's a great oil (maybe the best ) and i'll continue to use it .i just meant certain situations it's not always the most economical


i know you are trying not to bash. ;)


but in order for you to make an assumption like that , it would be good to provide hard data.

i have already shared some data that shows and i can provide more, like testimonials, maybe someone who builds engines can chime in on how there engines look after hardcore racing using high quality synthetics like AMSOIL ect...

[RTJ]

WHAT MORE HARD CORE DATA DO YOU WANT 41 YEARS AND NO ENGINE WORK AND STILL DOESN'T USE A QUART A YEAR AND THE PRICES I USED ARE EITHER MY OWN EXPERIENCE OR LOOKED UP AT OREILLY'S WEBSITE. YOU MISUNDERSTOOD I'M ON YOUR SIDE. I ONLY STATED FACTS FROM THE PAST. I CAN'T LIVE LONG ENOUGH TO PROVE IF AMSOIL IS CHEAPER OR BETTER. AS FAR AS HARDCORE USE. THIS TRACTOR HAS HAD NO TELLING HOW MANY HOURS OF USE. I ESTIMATE 10,000 OR MORE. THE HOUR METER BROKE AT 3600 25 YEARS AGO

[BakerRacing40]

lets say in my yfz, after a race or two (depends on how many classes i run in) i change my oil and filter in order to inspect for metal, water, or any other contamination. if i were to use amsoil that would increase my cost incredibly, i know you could drain the oil into a clean container and refill the engine with that, but to me that oil would be subject to dust contamination that may lead to an engine failure. so would there be a solution to this? i like to know whats going on inside my engine, and about every 4 or 5 oil changes i run an oil analysis to check the wear and possibly catch a failing part before it actually has a terminal failure. like i've stated before i use bel ray thumper oil, what is your take on this oil?
thank you for your time oilguy, i hope i've supplied enough info on this, if anything else is needed just let me know..

[oilguy]

Originally posted by RTJ
WHAT MORE HARD CORE DATA DO YOU WANT 41 YEARS AND NO ENGINE WORK AND STILL DOESN'T USE A QUART A YEAR AND THE PRICES I USED ARE EITHER MY OWN EXPERIENCE OR LOOKED UP AT OREILLY'S WEBSITE. YOU MISUNDERSTOOD I'M ON YOUR SIDE. I ONLY STATED FACTS FROM THE PAST. I CAN'T LIVE LONG ENOUGH TO PROVE IF AMSOIL IS CHEAPER OR BETTER. AS FAR AS HARDCORE USE. THIS TRACTOR HAS HAD NO TELLING HOW MANY HOURS OF USE. I ESTIMATE 10,000 OR MORE. THE HOUR METER BROKE AT 3600 25 YEARS AGO


in your case is different, and i fuly agree with you.

if you have a piece of machinery that old that has been running on dyno oil for that long then i would stick with that,

now like i said that tracktor or any powerplant that is old the tolerances on the internals are very big specially on a big engine like that with lots of torque.

now back on topic about these small engines where the tolerances are very tight, all this applies ;)

[oilguy]

Originally posted by BakerRacing40
lets say in my yfz, after a race or two (depends on how many classes i run in) i change my oil and filter in order to inspect for metal, water, or any other contamination. if i were to use amsoil that would increase my cost incredibly, i know you could drain the oil into a clean container and refill the engine with that, but to me that oil would be subject to dust contamination that may lead to an engine failure. so would there be a solution to this? i like to know whats going on inside my engine, and about every 4 or 5 oil changes i run an oil analysis to check the wear and possibly catch a failing part before it actually has a terminal failure. like i've stated before i use bel ray thumper oil, what is your take on this oil?
thank you for your time oilguy, i hope i've supplied enough info on this, if anything else is needed just let me know..


you have some very good questions i like them

you never ever want to drain the engine and put it back in,,, like you stated you would prolly contaminate the oil ,,, this is out of the question.

now for you oil analysis,,, very simple my brother,,

- if you are planning on leaving the oil in the engine for example 12,000 miles
- buy an extra quart of oil, and every 3,000 miles open the drain plug and get your sample of oil to send off to oilanalysis lab,,, and then all you do is refill back to however how much you took out for your sample wich should not be more than that small little bottle for the oil analysis

I think this would give you the ability to still maintain your oil inside the engine without having to drain it all out, and get you oil checked by the lab

i have tons of these oil analysis kits let me know i can ship them to you for cheap

[RTJ]

LIKE I SAID I'M ON YOUR SIDE. I HAVE WENT AMSOIL 100%. 3 QUADS, 3 TRACTORS 2 OLD 1 NEW, 3 TRUCKS 2 DIESEL 1 GAS,3 SMALL ENGINES COUNTING LAWN MOWER. ( AIN'T THAT WILD AS HECK 3 OF EVERYTHING NEVER REALIZED THAT BEFORE ). I'M TOTALLY SATISFIED WITH AMSOIL AND HIGHLY RECOMEND IT.

[John451]

Originally posted by BakerRacing40
lets say in my yfz, after a race or two (depends on how many classes i run in) i change my oil and filter in order to inspect for metal, water, or any other contamination. if i were to use amsoil that would increase my cost incredibly, i know you could drain the oil into a clean container and refill the engine with that, but to me that oil would be subject to dust contamination that may lead to an engine failure. so would there be a solution to this? i like to know whats going on inside my engine, and about every 4 or 5 oil changes i run an oil analysis to check the wear and possibly catch a failing part before it actually has a terminal failure. like i've stated before i use bel ray thumper oil, what is your take on this oil?
thank you for your time oilguy, i hope i've supplied enough info on this, if anything else is needed just let me know..

How much is it to send a sample out to be analyzed? and where is it? Can they really tell you what parts are wearing down / are ready to break?

[John451]

Originally posted by Beaudacious
i have a question why does Amsoil go clumpy after a month from opening the container no one can give me a straight answer thanks

If any water or motor oil get in it does that.

[BakerRacing40]

Originally posted by John451
How much is it to send a sample out to be analyzed? and where is it? Can they really tell you what parts are wearing down / are ready to break?

not sure what all places do it, but i'm kinda lucky. we have an analysis machine at work that does the testing work, then when its done you print out a report and it tells you what actually in there and since parts are made of different material it can help you see whats getting wore down. it really is pretty cool and i know that i don't know the half of that machine can do lol..

i really hope i made some sort of sense there, it 5:o3 am and now i'm finally going to bed....

[John451]

Originally posted by BakerRacing40
not sure what all places do it, but i'm kinda lucky. we have an analysis machine at work that does the testing work, then when its done you print out a report and it tells you what actually in there and since parts are made of different material it can help you see whats getting wore down. it really is pretty cool and i know that i don't know the half of that machine can do lol..

i really hope i made some sort of sense there, it 5:o3 am and now i'm finally going to bed....

hah, that's awesome.. on most of my bikes, other than my race bike, i like to ride till it goes pop then i fix everything lol.

[oilguy]

Originally posted by John451
How much is it to send a sample out to be analyzed? and where is it? Can they really tell you what parts are wearing down / are ready to break?


yes the lab will let you know how os the engine doing and what parts are wearing.

you have a PM

[JParisi48]

whats the difference between synthetic and regular?

[oilguy]

Originally posted by JParisi48
whats the difference between synthetic and regular?


wow ,,, where do we start


very easy way to put it is regular oil if you are refering to petrolium based oil, is made out of petroulium.

synthetic, has no petrolium based products, is purely synthetic and also 1000% much better for your engines, transmissions, differentials ect...


if you want specific details and data let me know we can get some charts and scientific info up

[JParisi48]

all i needed to know is sythetic is better lol, im gettin me some...ur not supposed to switch back to petrolium based after u run synthetic right?

[ccdhowell]

Originally posted by JParisi48
all i needed to know is sythetic is better lol, im gettin me some...ur not supposed to switch back to petrolium based after u run synthetic right?

Doesn't matter any more, the new synthetics won't dry-out the seals the way it used to.

[John451]

Is it still bad to mix synth. oil with petrolium based?

[oilguy]

Originally posted by JParisi48
all i needed to know is sythetic is better lol, im gettin me some...ur not supposed to switch back to petrolium based after u run synthetic right?


that theory has been preached for years and years is completely false.

if you have ran petrolium based oils the entire life of the vehile and decide to make the switch you are more than welcome, it will just help you in the long run.

if you need any specific fluids let me know we can hook it up at distibutir pricing.


bottom line synthetics are lot better

[oilguy]

Originally posted by ccdhowell
Doesn't matter any more, the new synthetics won't dry-out the seals the way it used to.



thank you ,,, very good way to explain it

[oilguy]

Originally posted by John451
hah, that's awesome.. on most of my bikes, other than my race bike, i like to ride till it goes pop then i fix everything lol.

you crazy :)

[oilguy]

Originally posted by BEAVER.989
Who's gonna debate oilguy "The Amsoil Specialist" about oil, honestly? Not me, lol. ;)

[ss440ex]

Esters....
What are they,some have them some don`t.

[oilguy]

Originally posted by ss440ex
Esters....
What are they,some have them some don`t.


easters not good for your engine, they cling onto internal parts, and thats why you see your internals get black over time, gunk

[ccdhowell]

Originally posted by oilguy
easters not good for your engine, they cling onto internal parts, and thats why you see your internals get black over time, gunk


Wow, that's not true at all. Esters are the pinacle of lubrication becasue they are polar in nature and cling to internal parts, and tend to stay there better when the engine is stressed, meaning like most of the time with many of our quad engines. Almost all modern race engines from NASCAR to MotoGP to GNCC are run on oil that is in large part esters, nothing better out there. Notice that Amsoil doesn't test against those in their white papers; they omit Motul 300V and Red Line oils because they are superior to Amsoil at a chemical level. This is not to say that Amsoil is a poor oil, quite the contray, they use mostly PAO, which is a group IV product, the second best type of lubrication.

Esters don't make an engine black over time, they will actually remove much of the baked on junk that conventional oils leave behind, Amsoil doesn't do that.

I know you are here to hawk your product, and that's fine with me, but you should at least get the facts straight, and perhaps pay a sponsor fee to legitamize your efforts.

[F-16Guy]

Originally posted by ccdhowell
Wow, that's not true at all. Esters are the pinacle of lubrication becasue they are polar in nature and cling to internal parts, and tend to stay there better when the engine is stressed, meaning like most of the time with many of our quad engines. Almost all modern race engines from NASCAR to MotoGP to GNCC are run on oil that is in large part esters, nothing better out there. Notice that Amsoil doesn't test against those in their white papers; they omit Motul 300V and Red Line oils because they are superior to Amsoil at a chemical level. This is not to say that Amsoil is a poor oil, quite the contray, they use mostly PAO, which is a group IV product, the second best type of lubrication.

Esters don't make an engine black over time, they will actually remove much of the baked on junk that conventional oils leave behind, Amsoil doesn't do that.

I know you are here to hawk your product, and that's fine with me, but you should at least get the facts straight, and perhaps pay a sponsor fee to legitamize your efforts.

Owned.

I don't want this to be taken offensively, but why does it seem like there are so many Amsoil "reps". It smells to me like a multi-level marketing scheme (aka "pyramid scheme").

In 20+ years of vehicle ownership, I've never once had an oil related failure. Engine oil has to meet minimum specs, so as long as you use the correct grade and type of oil and perform scheduled and preventative maintenance, the brand seems to be mostly personal preference.

[honda400ex2003]

I would take amsoil over stock stuff any day. steve