Handling adjustments needed

[IcutMetl]

I'm scrapping my trashed stock a-arms and shocks on my 88 250r and going with a pair of WP dual-rate piggybacks I got off of ebay, along with an adjustable set of arms from an 86. This is temporary until I improve some other areas and can buy a better front end.

My 'wheeler is pretty "darty" as it is; especially down the road, and off-camber trails. I'd like to minimize that. I'm sure my alignment is out of adjustment; could anyone give me some tips as to how to align my front wheels for proper toe in/out? And also with the 86 adjustable camber arms; what's the best practice for that?

Thanks!

[usp4u]

Originally posted by IcutMetl
I'm scrapping my trashed stock a-arms and shocks on my 88 250r and going with a pair of WP dual-rate piggybacks I got off of ebay, along with an adjustable set of arms from an 86. This is temporary until I improve some other areas and can buy a better front end.

My 'wheeler is pretty "darty" as it is; especially down the road, and off-camber trails. I'd like to minimize that. I'm sure my alignment is out of adjustment; could anyone give me some tips as to how to align my front wheels for proper toe in/out? And also with the 86 adjustable camber arms; what's the best practice for that?

Thanks!

first, are the "WP" shocks "works performance", or actual "WP" shocks? if they are works shocks for a 250Rthen youre fine. if they are WP shocks for something other than a 250R with '86 arms then the valving will be wrong and it will work like crap.

assuming they are the correct shock...your "twitchy" handling is the result of poor alignment. any one of the "big three" alignment specs can cause twitchy handling. see the sticky thread for an explaination if youre not familiar.
you said your a-arms are beat so my guess is that one of your a-arms are shoved back causing a castor issue. castor is one of the most important and misunderstood alignment specs. again see the thread the tread tacked at the top.
more to come....

[usp4u]

now to set the alignment...assuming you've installed the a-arms and shocks...
get a set of jackstands, a 6 or 8 foot level, a carpentry square, tape measure.

set up jackstands behind rear wheel and front of front wheel. set level on jackstands and move front jackstand until the leavel is touching the sidewall of the rear tire on both the front and rear portion of the rear tire sidewall.

move to the front wheel with your tape measure. measue from the rear of the side wall to the edge of the level. write that measurement down. do the same for the front portion of the sidewall.
subtract those values. this is you toe-in. a good starting point in 1/8" total toe. this is the total of both sides, so 1/16'' each.
be sure to check the bars for straight throughout the process.

camber-take you sqaure and stand it up touching the sidewall of the tire in the center. if there is a gap between the top of the sidewall and the square, you have negative camber(this is preferable), gap at bottom is positive camber. adjust the upper a-arm in or out to acheive zero camber to start. ride and adjust upper arm inward(negative camber) to your tastes or comfort level. more negative camber makes steering "faster".

this is a starting point.