Carb removal "How To"?

[BEAVER.989]

I just got a call from the 'ol lady. My pipe beat my Clymer manual to my doorstep. I want to tear into my quad right away, but haven't taken it apart, yet.

Is there a decent how to, maybe something a little better than the one in the Tech Articles section? Something with illustrations, perhaps?

[rob_990]

take the carb off then take the brass screws on the bottom of the carb off then the pilot and the main are right there.

edit:you have to remove the plastics,tank,and heat protector to get to it which is really easy just remember to shut your gas off

[coryatver]

take off seat, front plastic, gas tank.

unhook the throttle cable from the thumb throttle.

loosen boot clamps and then pull the carb out.

The brass screws are like butter they usually strip out. You can use plyers to get them out. You can replace them with some new stainless screws from a hardware store.

Take the screws out of the bottom of the carb to reach the main jet, pilot jet and so on. You only have to take the top off if you are changing or adjusting the needle.

[BEAVER.989]

I guess this does sound pretty straightforward. I can't wait to tear itno it. Thanks.

[rob_990]

its easier to just take the cable off the carb if your gonna take it off so a cables not attached to it.all u have to do is take the plastic cover off the carb and take out the cable

[Snipe]

One thing you dont have to remove the throttle cable I never do to work on my carb. saves you alot of time adjutsing the cable.

[dariusld]

Originally posted by coryatver


The brass screws are like butter they usually strip out.



Try to use the right size screwdriver and push hard. Or you could use a impact driver, they work wonders for me.

[BEAVER.989]

Boy, you guys have me concerned about these screws, lol. Eveyone mentions them. I'm glad I bought the stainless allen head version replacments. Hopefully I'm lucky getting the old ones out since my quad has very little ride time on it.

[Snipe]

to get them to break loose with a screw driver give them a good turn like your tighting them. Then back out it works the grit loose on the threads and they will come out. Just keep it a tight fit and you wont strip them had mine off many times.

[BEAVER.989]

This job was a breeze. To anyone intimidated by it, don't be.

[dankbud42o]

Originally posted by coryatver
take off seat, front plastic, gas tank.

unhook the throttle cable from the thumb throttle.

loosen boot clamps and then pull the carb out.

The brass screws are like butter they usually strip out. You can use plyers to get them out. You can replace them with some new stainless screws from a hardware store.

Take the screws out of the bottom of the carb to reach the main jet, pilot jet and so on. You only have to take the top off if you are changing or adjusting the needle.

thanks, taking a crack at this tomorrow..

[MtnEX]

Originally posted by BEAVER.989
This job was a breeze. To anyone intimidated by it, don't be.

Exactly... very easy...

The other stuff to get to it is more aggravating than the carb.

The only time the carb gets complex is if you take the needle and slide out. Then you will often have to deal with re-sync'n the slide & butterfly timing so everything works right and the accelerator pump can do it's job best...

[Honda#4]

The only time the carb gets complex is if you take the needle and slide out. Then you will often have to deal with re-sync'n the slide & butterfly timing so everything works right and the accelerator pump can do it's job best...


Thats the first time I ever heard that, I thought that was for the duel carb banshee.

I've taken my 400 carb off plenty of times without doing what you said which leaves me a bit confused on why you said it, not to be rude but maybe im just missing something.

[MtnEX]

Originally posted by Honda#4
Thats the first time I ever heard that, I thought that was for the duel carb banshee.

I've taken my 400 carb off plenty of times without doing what you said which leaves me a bit confused on why you said it, not to be rude but maybe im just missing something.

You probably have not messed with the needle clip position yet... or if you have, you have probably been lucky enough not to end up far enough off to cause an issue.

Every time you loosen that set screw on the slide arm so you can lift the slide out to set the needle position.... there is a possibility of getting the timing off between the carb parts.


See, that set screw holds that shaft in, but that shaft also rotates when you push the throttle, and the rotation lifts the slide.

At the same time the butterfly is rotating.... and if you are getting on the gas hard, the accelerator pump is giving a squirt too.


So if the timing gets off far enough, problems will start... because the opening of the slide and butterfly are off... and when that is off, the air/fuel mixture will also be off one way or the other, depending on which is opening first.... because the slide also controls the needle lift and fuel delivery.

Get off farther and when you stab the throttle won't shoot straight through and into the engine... instead it will squirt into the side of the slide before it raises up, etc...


So you can see how folks thing they have jetting or throttle response issues, hesitation, etc....

[Honda#4]

Thanks for the info, guess I learned another thing about carbs. I've only adjusted the needle one notch in both directions so your prob right about me not running into problems.

[dariusld]

I have had my carb apart many times and still don't know what the he11 he is talkin about. I think it is because he doesn't know either:D

[MtnEX]

Here you go boys...

The set screw I am talking about is shown here (screw and washer).

It sets against the shaft so that when it rotates, the arm is lifted to raise the slide.

Each time you mess with it, it's possible to set the screw against the shaft in a different place... which effects WHEN the slide raises in relation to the butterfly rotating open.

[dariusld]

Originally posted by MtnEX



it's possible to set the screw against the shaft in a different place...

I understood the first time. Can you explain, really slow, the quote above. I just like to see peoples thought processes. I try to understand the logic behind the genius.

I try to highlight the retardedness, but everyone here always sides with the retards.

[MtnEX]

Originally posted by dariusld
I understood the first time. Can you explain, really slow, the quote above. I just like to see peoples thought processes. I try to understand the logic behind the genius.

I try to highlight the retardedness, but everyone here always sides with the retards.

It's been a long time since I messed with my needle... but bottom line is that above referenced screw has to come out.

It must be removed so the link arm shaft can be slid OUT of the slide arm.... else you can't get the slide out.

Once you take the shaft out, you can pull the slide out by the arm... But once you put it back... it's possible to not have things together in precisely the same place.

I don't remember if the shaft has a threaded hole in it or not, but it's not relevant if it does.... because this is not one of those ZERO TOLERANCE screw-togethers.

Since the slide lifts by that arm... by way of rotation of the shaft it's connected to, the rise of the slide can be a hair ahead or behind where it should be.

[dariusld]

Originally posted by MtnEX

I don't remember if the shaft has a threaded hole in it or not, but it's not relevant if it does.... because this is not one of those ZERO TOLERANCE screw-togethers.



Yes, the shaft is threaded. You used the term "set screw", this is not a set screw if the shaft is threaded. I don't know of many things that are "zero tolerance", but it definetly doesn't effect anything, especially jetting.

[TRXRacer1]

Originally posted by MtnEX


Since the slide lifts by that arm... by way of rotation of the shaft it's connected to, the rise of the slide can be a hair ahead or behind where it should be. Yeah but that's the most and we're talking thousands of an inch.

This reminds me of that movie Billy Madison where the principal says "everyone in this room is now dumber for having listened to it, I award you no points, and may God have mercy on your soul."

[mcgrath]

Originally posted by TRXRacer1
Yeah but that's the most and we're talking thousands of an inch.

This reminds me of that movie Billy Madison where the principal says "everyone in this room is now dumber for having listened to it, I award you no points, and may God have mercy on your soul."



I could not agree with you more.