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View Full Version : wont turn sharp --- yfz



BakerRacing40
05-14-2009, 06:27 AM
hey just got my 04 yfz completed and my steering doesn't seem as sharp as it used to be. front end wise i have +2 full flights with the lower shock mount moved out an inch, burgard stem, stock bottom plate, the shocks are stock sized, and tires are 18x 5.5x 10, wheel offset is same as stock. I can tell that i am a little toed in. it sets 49 1/2" wide. just wondering if i should grind the bottom plate or what to do?
thanks

ccdhowell
05-14-2009, 10:40 AM
How did you set your caster? I generally prefer about 4 degrees positive caster for racing MX and XC. If you are on more open, faster places more often you might want to have maybe 6 degrees positive caster or so. I'd check the caster seting before I'd start grinding on the steering stops if I were you. Just my 2 cents.

Scro
05-14-2009, 11:01 AM
When you say "as it used to", what are you comparing it to? When it was stock?

BakerRacing40
05-14-2009, 05:38 PM
ya stock front end was on it

Scro
05-15-2009, 06:53 AM
I would check you're measurements. It doesn't matter if you have a top of the line front end, if you don't set it up correctly (caster, camber, toe), it's not gonna work good.

ALAMX37
05-15-2009, 09:19 AM
When you add wider a-arms you lose some of your turning radius. No set up will turn as sharp as stock, plain and simple.

BakerRacing40
05-16-2009, 10:30 PM
toe is now 1/4" toed in and camber is straight up almost a lil negative and caster upper is back quite a bit. can't remember which way is what on caster.. i'm getting my angle finder back in the next couple days so i'll know exactly where i stand. but still not better..

deathman53
05-18-2009, 10:22 AM
I bet to differ the laeger +3 +0 on my 250r turns maybe quicker than stock. My roll design is quite a it slower turning and the Lsr depended on how the caster was set. Did you move the shock mounts out? You are aware that doing so may need long travel shocks. If you look at long travel a-arms, the bottom shock mount is further out than standard travel. The more the spindle is leaned back, makes slower turning, but better hi-speed stability, when its leaned forward, sharper turning and reduced hi-speed stability.

ccdhowell
05-18-2009, 10:29 AM
Originally posted by BakerRacing40
toe is now 1/4" toed in and camber is straight up almost a lil negative and caster upper is back quite a bit. can't remember which way is what on caster.. i'm getting my angle finder back in the next couple days so i'll know exactly where i stand. but still not better..

When you get your angle finder, check the caster with rider weight on the quad. Yes, it's important to have rider weight on the quad in the rider position as this changes the caster, usually makes it more positive. Anyway, then set the caster to 4 degrees lean back, the upper ball joint should be further to the rear of the quad by 4 degrees or so; not more than 6 degrees. I think when you hit the 4 degree mark you'll be happy with the turning. Most stock quads are too slow for insurance reasons, it's one of the key advantages to changing a-arms for racing or fast trail riding.

05-18-2009, 10:39 AM
If i'm not mistaken the Full flights also move the a-arms forward 1" which has been known to make handling worse.

400exrider707
05-18-2009, 01:00 PM
Originally posted by FlewByU352
If i'm not mistaken the Full flights also move the a-arms forward 1" which has been known to make handling worse.

Some of the fullflights I've seen you need to adjust the upper heims out so far to avoid the heim binding that it completely negates the +1 forward. I'm willing to bet if you hold the left side to the right side, they aren't even built the same. I am not a fan of fullflight products.

BakerRacing40
05-18-2009, 02:40 PM
well i just adjusted the caster, still don't have my angle finder so i just used a swag- (scientific wild ***** guess) and it's a whole lot better.. i'm not really happy with the full flights but i got them really cheap and they had never been mounted on anything before. the problems i've seen is that the arms aren't the plus two part you have to unscrew the hiems to get your width and i didn't hold them to each other but their not built even. the ball joints don't go together like they should. but they were cheap it handles ten times better since i'm not running the wheels turned around and they do look decent.
so all in all i'm closer to getting back on the track so i am happy lol ...