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03pete
05-08-2009, 07:27 PM
Does anyone know what sub this is or how much its worth? My brother bought it off a friend a while back, and he gave it to me. I've never heard of a Xtreme brand before, so I was wondering if anyone else knew. Its in a Q-logic box for sure.

03pete
05-08-2009, 07:27 PM
pic 2. Sorry for the quality, taken from a phone.

XCRacer236
05-08-2009, 08:39 PM
looks like prolly just an off brand BB, CC brand. theres others on here that know more then me that might of heard of it.

03pete
05-08-2009, 08:42 PM
Alright. I also know nothing about car audio. I know its either a 10" 200 watt or 12" 250watt. What kind of amp would i need to install this? Do you get the exact watt amp as the sub puts out or do you go way over?

muddy400EX
05-08-2009, 10:47 PM
Originally posted by 03pete
Alright. I also know nothing about car audio. I know its either a 10" 200 watt or 12" 250watt. What kind of amp would i need to install this? Do you get the exact watt amp as the sub puts out or do you go way over?

that looks like an off brand cheapy sub. and u dont wann run max watts to the sub, run a little over RMS and youll be good. like say it is 200rms, and 400max. run 300 or so. and amps dont always put out what they say. for example, i have an "820 watt amp" but it reality, the most it can put out at one time is 480 watts. they take how many watts the amp puts out at different ohms, and adds it together

ben300
05-08-2009, 10:54 PM
car audio & electronics mag awhile back had that exact sub, well it was a show suv done up by west cost customs back when that mad mike goof was still there, done with those exact subs, they had liek 4 or 6 of them buit in the back of a scion xb...i wouldnt say they are an off brand, but i dotn think they are a brand that ever took off

Tommy Warren
05-08-2009, 11:00 PM
you need to pull the sub out of the box. there will be more info on the magnet sticker.

BEAVER.989
05-09-2009, 09:36 AM
Cheap sub. Avoid it unless it's nearly free.

MAaudioX10
05-09-2009, 02:01 PM
What you need to do is find the subs resistance value and, power handling.

Usually, off brand subs like, are single 4 ohm and, about 200 watts RMS.

If you are only running a single sub, what you need to find is an amp that produces 200 watts RMS @ 4 ohms.

In any event, you need to find out more information.

03pete
05-09-2009, 06:53 PM
Originally posted by BEAVER.989
Cheap sub. Avoid it unless it's nearly free.

It is free.

http://evosoft.dk/xtreme/xtreme_subwoofers.html

and MAaudioX10, I found this site that looks to be the same one. looks like dual 4ohm and either 200/400 peak or 250/500 peak watts. What watt amp should I get?

FreekShow
05-09-2009, 10:14 PM
haha im definitely in the same boat dude. this is the first ever subwoofer ive ever gotten i have no idea about hooking anything up. they are jl audio subs. i dont know what kinda amp i will need to power these or anything. anybody help me? or is the only way to take this whole box apart and look at the sticker on it to get the numbers?

muddy400EX
05-09-2009, 10:19 PM
Originally posted by FreekShow
haha im definitely in the same boat dude. this is the first ever subwoofer ive ever gotten i have no idea about hooking anything up. they are jl audio subs. i dont know what kinda amp i will need to power these or anything. anybody help me? or is the only way to take this whole box apart and look at the sticker on it to get the numbers?

those are w0's. run about 150-175 watts to each, and youll be bumpin. find the ohm of the subs though

FreekShow
05-09-2009, 10:22 PM
can u tell if they are 10 or 12"?


cuz here is the page for the 10" http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_subs.php?series_id=32


and for the 12" http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_subs.php?series_id=33


so what kinda amp i need? those pages say the subs are 4 ohms and 300watts

i think i would need around a 600 watt amp. because the power chart on jl's website says to run it at about 125watts per sub. and for example this amplifier puts out 110 watts@4ohms which is close to the 125.



http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-Boss-CX450-2-Ch-600-Watt-Car-Audio-AmplifierAmp_W0QQitemZ350183775762QQcmdZViewItemQQ ptZCar_Amplifiers?hash=item5188945e12_trksid=p3286 .c0.m14_trkparms=72%3A1199|66%3A2|65%3A12|39%3A1|2 40%3A1318|301%3A0|293%3A1|294%3A50

wykyd450R
05-10-2009, 06:43 AM
Originally posted by FreekShow
haha im definitely in the same boat dude. this is the first ever subwoofer ive ever gotten i have no idea about hooking anything up. they are jl audio subs. i dont know what kinda amp i will need to power these or anything. anybody help me? or is the only way to take this whole box apart and look at the sticker on it to get the numbers?


Take all the screws out of the clear cover. Then remove the screws from the front of one of the subs, then it'll pull out. Take a tape measure, and lay it across the front of one of one of the subs. If it measures close to 12-13 inches, its a 12...10-11, it would be a 10. JL subs are very good, and efficient.

ben300
05-10-2009, 07:46 AM
Originally posted by muddy400EX
those are w0's. run about 150-175 watts to each, and youll be bumpin. find the ohm of the subs though


im sorry, but you cant tell that those are W0's just by looking at them, unless you sold him the subs..

W0's, w3's w1's adn even w6's from a bout five 6 years back all look like that sub..


pull the sub out and look at the back of the magnet

FreekShow
05-11-2009, 10:37 AM
k guys i pulled the subs out and they are 12WO-8. and so according to this page i should run a 300 watt amp because each sub can handle up to 125 watts?


http://mobile.jlaudio.com/pdfs/10_12_15W0_MAN.pdf

F-16Guy
05-11-2009, 11:49 AM
A good quality amp with a true 300 WRMS would be fine for a pair of JL 12W0s. I personally didn't like my 12W0; it was probably one of the worst subs I ever owned. They sound okay up to a point, but they start to distort pretty early, and don't have the excursion of a better quality sub. The magnet is small and just doesn't have the power to move the cone.

Believe it or not, the best subs I ever owned were a pair of 10" Orion XTR3s. They had huge magnets for a 10" sub, and they made some really clean, tight base. If you want to watch your subs move, crank up "Save Yourself" by Stabbing Westward. The base line goes so low that you can't hear it, but my XTRs would be moving like crazy and shaking the whole car.

FreekShow
05-12-2009, 06:25 PM
well i got this amp from a buddy...

http://apsdc.com/Alpine%20Car%20amplifier%203527.htm


would it work ok?

F-16Guy
05-12-2009, 07:11 PM
Yeah, it will work. It's four channel though, so you can really only use two of the channels (bridged down to one) for your sub unless it has dual voice coils (two separate sets of + & - terminals on the back of the sub). You could get another SVC sub and bridge the other two channels for it. You could also cross over the other pair of channels for highs and add a set of coaxials or a component set.

FreekShow
05-12-2009, 09:17 PM
each sub has only one set of + and -'s

so on the amp i wanna use the bridged #1 and # 2 to hook the subs up to right? i run the #1+ to the + on the first sub and #1- to the - on the first sub as well and then the same for the other sub?

so basically it looks like this


because this section on the amp is the bridge outputs that has this formation. its the speaker output i wanna use and not the speaker input section right?

channel #1+ channel #1 -

channel # 2 + channel 2 -

so each sub is a channel right? just run the positives and negatives to each sub respectively?

F-16Guy
05-13-2009, 06:22 AM
Sorry about that last post, I forgot you had two subs.

On the amp speaker outputs, there should be markings for polarity. You should have channel 1 + & - and channel 2 + & -, and the same for 3 & 4. For a bridgeable amp, a lot of times there will be markings next to the polarity for the terminals to use to bridge. Something like this:

CH 1 +
(bridged +)

CH 1 -

_______________________________

CH 2 +

CH 2 -
(bridged -)


So to bridge channels 1&2 to a single speaker, you would connect CH1 + and CH 2 - to the speaker + & -, and leave CH 1 - and CH 2 + disconnected (do not use the other + & - when in bridged mode). Repeat for channels 3&4 for the other sub.

BEAVER.989
05-13-2009, 04:45 PM
I don't have any useful information to add, but thought I'd share a picture of the set-up I built for my truck...

http://i253.photobucket.com/albums/hh50/BEAVER-989/f28032ee.jpg

TGW_400ex
05-13-2009, 10:39 PM
Originally posted by BEAVER.989
I don't have any useful information to add, but thought I'd share a picture of the set-up I built for my truck...

http://i253.photobucket.com/albums/hh50/BEAVER-989/f28032ee.jpg

Thats a clean looking setup.

FreekShow
05-13-2009, 10:54 PM
sweet thanks alot f16guy, getting it all hooked up friday, ill let u know how it goes

fasterblaster09
05-14-2009, 06:52 AM
man all of these letters are confusing me...I've never checked into all that when hooking up my systems. But right now I have two 15" l5's on a 4000 watt amp (I can think of the name right now), and it slams. But im sure its better to understand all of that ohm sh*t, idk...

F-16Guy
05-14-2009, 07:05 AM
Originally posted by FreekShow
sweet thanks alot f16guy, getting it all hooked up friday, ill let u know how it goes
No problem, man. Just another hobby that I wasted a lot of time and money on in high school. If you need any more help, let me know.