trailer actuating brakes

[shok47]

hey guys I bought a trailer awhile ago and I rebuilt the thing. It has actuating brakes but I dont think they are working. One reason is when I had the frame flipped over for a good few weeks, the fluid leaked out, and It is adjustable but I never did anything with it.

Do I have to bleed the brakes?? It would be nice to get these to work because I have a ford ranger 2.3L and the trailer is somewhat on the heavy side.

[scuzz]

Chances are you are going to have to bleed the brakes.

[tri5ron]

Yes you will need to bleed them out. Especially if you have towed it since you rebuilt it.
This is due to the fluid probably all leaked out ,while it was upside down, then when you tried to tow it, (and hit the brakes), it would have pumped air into the master cylinder, and brake lines.

This type of trailer brake system is called "Surge Brakes".
the best way to bleed them is with a vacuum type bleeder, used at each wheel's slave cylinder.
Make sure that while you are bleeding them, you do not let the reseviour run dry. Bleed a little, re-fill,.... bleed a little, re-fill.

continue to do this, until you have clean clear brake fluid coming out of both slave cylinders, with NO BUBBLES.

If you can not seem to get all the bubbles out,.. then you may need to "Bench Bleed" the master cylinder first.

this is done by removing the hydraulic line going back to the brakes, and bleeding the master cylinder first, by itself.
Then re-connect the hydraulic line, and bleed each wheel/slave cylinder.
AGAIN,... Making sure that you do not suck air into the master cylinder.

If you do suck air back into the master cylinder,...
You must start the entire process over.

trailer brakes are often overlooked maintaince wise, and are rarely adjusted properly, and are often the cause of an accident, that could have otherwise been avoided.

We often overload our trailers without even realizing it, and when you hit the brakes in your tow vehicle, and the trailer brakes do not work, it can literally push you sideways, cause you to crash, destroy your equipment, get hurt, or kill somebody.

It is simply not worth taking the chance. Especially when using a smaller tow vehicle. like a Ford Ranger.
The brakes on the truck are simply not up to the job to stop itself (Loaded), and pulling a trailer,(Loaded).
You can also be held liable in a crash, if your brakes on the trailer are found to be inoperable, or if the trailer has more than it's designed wieght, or if the loaded trailer is beyond the weight spec.s of the trucks rated towing capacity.

Also, do not rely on the "Automatic adjusters".
Manually check and adust them by hand.

Why do I take the time to write such a long reply???

I am a Commercially licensed Driver, own and drive my own Concrete truck, (50,000 lbs.) and i have had the brakes fade out on me before.
Absolutely terrifying!!! You will piss your pants!

As well, I drive a 1 ton, crewcab dually, with a 11 1/2' cabover camper, with my family onboard, while towing a 14' enclosed trailer fully loaded, with the quads and equipment.

trust me,....
if it starts to get squirrley,... it's already too late.
Especially with a surge brake set-up on the trailer.

That's why I prefer electric trailer brakes, with a In-Cab Brake Controller.

Do yourself, your family, and everyone on the road a favor,...
make sure they are working properly, and drive cautiously.

It's what prevents a weekend of fun,...
from turning into a fatal disaster.

here's what I drive... I do know what I'm talking about...


http://i111.photobucket.com/albums/n148/tri5ron/IMG_7145.jpg

http://i111.photobucket.com/albums/n148/tri5ron/IMG_7354.jpg

[shok47]

gotcha.
question on the bench bleeding. To make a process quicker, could I disconnect the ends that go to the wheels and bleed it that way until I see constant fluid, then connect it back to the wheels and do a few more pumps the regular way?

and the castle nut: I was looking on youtube and they show that you dont tighten it all the way? You back out a few turns they say?

[tri5ron]

trying to do this "Quicker", or "Easier" , is what will end up getting you or someone else hurt, or at minimum, damaging your toys, or truck, or both.
besides, doing a half way job will result in half way braking performance.

Towing and braking ,when properly set up, is WAAAAY easier on, and less stressful on, you as the driver, and when you get to where you are going, your still "Fresh" and ready to ride and have fun.
Cutting corners is not the answer.

and if by the "Castle nut" question you are referring to the adjuster wheel, then yes you are correct, it does not get tightened down all the way.
But this raises the concern of your experience, and therefor the resulting effectivness of the proper adjustment and bleeding of your trailer brake system.

Please do not take offence to this. I am not trying to say anything bad about you, or suggest that you shouldn't do your own maintaince. BUT,...

It would be Highly Advisable, to enlist the assistance of somebody who has experience in properly adjusting and bleeding this type of system, to help to show you how its done.
To see the proper adjustment of the brake shoes, etc.

After you have seen, and been properly taught how to do it,...
Then by all means,.... Do it yourself.
but please do not rely on youtube videos, or the like, to "Learn" how to do this.
Ask someone with good experience to show you how it's done.

We dont want to read your next posting titled as :

"I should have listened, but now my truck, and trailer, and quad got destroyed, and is sitting in the ditch, gee I'm lucky to be alive and glad I didn't kill someone".

Remember,...
You are towing with a small truck.
When the trailer is loaded, and you hit the brakes, and the trailer brakes dont work,.... here's what happens;

The weight of the trailer will try to lift the back of your truck,.....

your rear truck brakes are now compromised,...

all you've got left is your front brakes,...

but they are doing you no good because,....

now the trailer has jack-knifed you, and it is running the show,...

see that ditch coming ??? don't worry, you'll be there in just a second or two...


Don't let the trailer OWN the truck,.... (And You).

[shok47]

yup, I know what you mean. I know what bleeding brakes is about but I was curious why I couldnt go straight to the bench bleeding first so that the bubbles at the top will come out quicker. Once that is done I would reconnect them and continue bleeding like normal. During this time I am keeping the fluid level at the top.

If you never mentioned bench bleeding I would be doing it the ordinary way. I understand alot of this but when there is a question in my head about something I just learned I like to ask it. Im the quesiton asking type of guy.

And I will most likely have our family mechanic here because it is a 2 person job as I have read. Plus he knows just about everything about anything that goes on the ride, and more.

[tri5ron]

Good job,
And no question is a dumb question.
Especially when it has to do with, your, and others safety.

towing is more than just a **Hook it up and go** thing.
and you have shown that you already know that.
You must always keep it (the trailer), in the back of your mind, (and the back of your truck), at all times.
Good Job.

the mechanic will show you how to jack the wheel up off of the ground, and spin the wheel while moving the adjuster , to acheive the proper amout of "drag", without burning up the brakes on the trailer.

While your at it, and you have the wheel off of the ground,...
have him show you how to check the wheel bearings for "play", and adjust them if necessary.

have a great day, and never be embarrased to ask a question to learn how to do something.
knowledge is power.

ride hard, ride safe, and keep the rubber side down,
Ron