1st time starting after rebuild

[fauxamish]

I just rebuilt my motor for the first time (as well as the entire bike...there will be another rebuild thread in a few days...) I was wondering if there was anything special I should do when starting it the first time. I know that the oil tank won't hold the full amount of oil, so you are supposed to fill it, then run it, then fill it up the rest of the way.

I guess my real question is, since there is no oil in the motor to begin with, should I put some directly in the motor? I figure some will go in by the clutch because of gravity, but what about the top end? Everything was assembled using some oil, like the camshaft, etc. I was just wondering if it would be necessary to pour some in the top so that there is not a lack of oil around the cam/valves/rockers.

Last, what kind of oil? Not full synthetic right? Sorry if this kind of rambles. I just don't want to screw my motor up from the start. Thank you.

[matt14c]

Either take your plug out or turn gas off so it wont fire then turn the motor over a couple times to get the oil pump running and then it will lubricate everything. After the crankcase is filled you will notice the oil tank go down quite a bit. With a new rebuild I wouldnt run a full sysnthetic until you had 8 hours on it or so. Run a good petroleum oil like the hp4 or something along those lines.

[Jessem24]

if your worried about starting with no oil in the motor or starving the motor of oil for the first fe secs. place that red kill swith on the kill position. the motor will still turn when you press the start button but will not fire. turn it over for a minute to build oilpressure. , then start it.

my 300ex didnt do that. i think honda did that on the 400ex for a reason, being its a dry sump motor.

and yes, non synthetic. i used the honda gn4 oil when i broke mine in. on the 2nd oil change i switched to amsoil 20-50 for summer and 10-50 for winter and spring. change your oil after the first 4 tanks ran through it.

[Jessem24]

i hope that helped you - Jesse

[Jessem24]

Originally posted by matt14c
Either take your plug out or turn gas off so it wont fire then turn the motor over a couple times to get the oil pump running and then it will lubricate everything. After the crankcase is filled you will notice the oil tank go down quite a bit. With a new rebuild I wouldnt run a full sysnthetic until you had 8 hours on it or so. Run a good petroleum oil like the hp4 or something along those lines.
turning the red swith to that no start symbol acts as the same thing. it will keep it from getting a spark form the spark plug. when you turn that switch to the middle then it will start and get spark

[droppedmazda]

just take the valve caps off and pour a little oil down inside the motor. that way it wont turn over at all without oil on the top end.

[fauxamish]

I was thinking about that with the valve caps. I will also pull my killswitch for the first few seconds. Thanks alot everyone.

[JOHNNYRENO]

make sure you heat cycle it no matter what you do.

[hypersnyper6947]

I dont have a on switch or anything so i just took the cap off the plug and hit the starter for about 20-30 seconds to get oil circulating. Your cam should be ok b/c your supposed to use plenty of assembly lube on it when you installed it. Depending on if you have a new cam or not is how you should break in your motor. If you have a new cam there is strict instructions on how to break in the cam.

To break in the motor do some semi hard accelerations in 2nd and 3rd gear, about 3/4 throttle, never go a constant speed always be accelerating or slowing down. This puts pressure on the rings and pushes them up against the freshly honed cylinder wall to seat the rings. After about 20-30 minutes of doing this it should be good to go. Then just ride it like you would, just dont go to crazy on holding full throttle till the 2nd tank.

Enjoy!:D

Dont forget to let it warm up first, unless your breaking in the cam then you cant let it idle to warm up so just dont nail it till its warm.

[bbender85]

Originally posted by hypersnyper6947
...Dont forget to let it warm up first, unless your breaking in the cam then you cant let it idle to warm up so just dont nail it till its warm.

thats what i was going to ask, if you did a cam. i did when i did my top end, and just rode it around easily for 20 minutes and its been fine for almost a year now.

[fauxamish]

Yeah, I put in a stage 2 hot cam, so I will let it idle just long enough that it is warm enough to move. then I will ride easy to really warm it up, then do the acceleration like hypersnyper said. Thanks everyone.

[brian76708]

Originally posted by fauxamish
Yeah, I put in a stage 2 hot cam, so I will let it idle just long enough that it is warm enough to move. then I will ride easy to really warm it up, then do the acceleration like hypersnyper said. Thanks everyone.

with the new cam to i would bounce the rpms around 3 to 4 thousand while sitting still for a couple mins then check your valve clearance. I did this and the intake already tightened past specs.

[hypersnyper6947]

I think with the new cam you cant let it idle, your supposed to start it and go, just go easy on it and constantly change the rpms with no hard accelerations for like 20 minutes to break the cam in.

Then check valve clearances, make sure there in spec

Then go on to break in the motor like i said