Replacing Stator on a 2006 Predator 50

[HGG59]

My Grandson ran his 06 Predator 50 through some water and now it will not start. The other G-Son has a 90 and I have switched out everything, less the stator and it still will not work. Is there any trick to pulling the flywheel and replacing the stator? Do u know the size of the Flywheel puller needed?

The Polaris dealer can not help/fix this, as their is a hold on working on anything of the China made ATVs until they get some type of ruling on the whole LEAD content issue, which they stated could be months.

Anyway it appears if the G-Son is going to ride over the next few months, it'll be up to me to fix it.

I would appreciate any pointers I can get.

Thanks!

They make a fly wheel puller I believe its the same as the Yamaha Blaster so you could go to any cycle shop and buy one they are like 20.00. Do you have a ohm meter? If so you can check to see if its any good before tearing it apart.Have you checked to make sure you have no fire? If not I would check this first also. Please let us know and we will walk you threw it., Toby

[HGG59]

Thanks Toby

I can get my hands on an ohm meter, but not sure which wires to check. The Polaris service guy couldn't or wouldn't help me with that either... stating that "legally" he could not.

We are definitely not getting any spark at the plug and as I mentioned I pulled everything off the 50 I could get off at the dunes and reinstalled them on the 90 and the 90 started every time.

Thanks Again,
Howard

Tests to try if you have no spark or if your charging system is bad.

Preliminary test >>> This will not work on the Polaris and may not work on the Viper. If You Have either Proceed to the Stator test listed below.

1. Locate the CDI and unplug the connector for the black wire with the white stripe (or white wire with black stripe).
Test for spark. If no spark, leave it unpluged and proceed with test.

2. On the CDI, unplug the red wire with white stripe (could also be white wire with red stripe) AND the Black wire with white stripe (could be white wire with black stripe).

3. Locate the wires that come from the stator on the engine (right front top of engine. This harness is about 10" long can covered with a black tubing).
Connect the CDI red wire with white stripe (could also be white wire with red stripe) directly to the matching stator wire. Connect the CDI Black wire with white stripe (could be white wire with black stripe) directly to the stator wire.

Test for spark.

If no spark, you have a problem with the CDI, Stator or COIL. You have eliminated the AVT wire harness as the cause.


The stator tests as follows:

1. YOU MUST USE A DIGITAL OHM METER!!!
2. On the stator the ohm reading between the red wire with white stripe (could also be white wire with red stripe) AND the Black wire with white stripe (could be white wire with black stripe) should be about 1284 ohms for the ETON style (3 bolt fan) stators and 689 ohms for the Kasea, LRX and DRR (4 bolt fan) stators.
3. The red wire with white stripe (could also be white wire with red stripe) to ground should be about 447 ohms for the ETON style (3 bolt fan) stators and 112.7 ohms for the Kasea, LRX and DRR (4 bolt fan) stators.
4. The Black wire with white stripe (could be white wire with black stripe) to ground should be about 837 ohms for the ETON style (3 bolt fan) stators and 576 ohms for the Kasea, LRX and DRR (4 bolt fan) stators.
5. From the plastic connector with the three wires, confirm that the black lead has 0 resistance between the lead and the frame of the atv. That is the ground lead. Any noted resistance in the ground system means the ground is BAD. We recommend always adding a wire between the engine and the frame for a better ground.

NOTE That the total ohms for #3 and #4 are the same as the ohms in #2. That is because we but the resistance of the two coils in series and added the ohms.

IF YOU DO NOT GET THESE READINGS your stator is BAD.

COILS:

1. There are two resistances in coils. Eton vs. Kasea.
2. The Eton should measure about 9.24k ohms checking between the high voltage lead (no boot) and the coil ground.
3. The Eton coil should also read about .5 ohms between the coil input and coil ground. Kasea reads about .3 ohms. Don't switch them because you can burn out your CDI and stator.

Your typical plug cap is a resistor cap and it should read about 5k ohms. A great replacement cap is the NGK TB05EMA.

If your stator, coil and engine kill wiring tests OK, you simply need a new CDI. I will not list out CDI test procedures since you have concluded your CDI is bad and because if you test the CDI improperly, you will damage the unit.


If you want to check the charging feature of the stator:

(We assume that you have confirmed that the in-line fuse near the battery is good and that your battery is in good shape.)
1. Locate the 3 wire plastic plug from the stator. One wire is the black ground and the other two are the charging system.
2. The Orange wire with red stripe to ground should read about .4 ~ .5 ohms on the Eton and the same on the Kasea style.
3. The White wire to ground should read about .5 ohms on the Eton and .3 ~.5 on the Kasea style.

NOTE: You cannot interchange the Eton for the Kasea stator without the matching flywheel and there are two crank tapers that you will find. The Kasea style has a substantially higher voltage output for lighting.

For those who prefer pictures Spike has spent several hours putting together very detailed graphics for your use. Click the links for some excellent detailed pictures


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[HGG59]

Thanks... I'll do the testing on Saturday and let you know what I find.

Thanks again!!

[Blazer25]

If you don't have a fly wheel puller, some auto part stores like auto zone will rent them to you. We don't have a puller and that is what we did when we had to replace the stator on our daughter's quad.

[HGG59]

Thanks for the help guys... and tgcheeseman you were correct, the Blaster Fly Wheel puller worked.

It took me a bit longer to get to it than I thought, real life kicked in and just did not have the time until today.

Thanks again for all the help and advise... the next project is to see what it will take (inexpensively) to get this little 50 to go a little faster.