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View Full Version : Full Flight A-arms



asalerno0703
04-16-2009, 07:52 AM
hey everyone, i've been looking up different brands of a-arms, but cant make up my mind. i wouldnt like to spend more than 500, and i would like to use 450r shocks in the front. does anyone have any experience with full flight a-arms? i need to know what people think about them.

dobber21
04-16-2009, 08:32 AM
i have the fullflights, in my opinion they are pretty good for the price , ihave never had other aarms, the only problem i had was keeping a bolt tight that holds the aarm to the spindle but i doused it with loctite and now it doesnt move, i have the just the plus 2s and i have 450r shocks, the only other downside is they dont have greasable ball joints, but other than that they work awesome

dobber21
04-16-2009, 08:34 AM
this is a pic of my aarms they just got painted but thats them

Crazy lil punk
04-16-2009, 07:37 PM
not a fan of the full-flights, I sold them before I even ran them, the heim joints just screw into the a-arms, but did not have a lock nut on the back, I didnt like that. Also, It didnt seem like they were true +2s, they were pretty much the same size as my stockers. I do have to say, their customers service is A+,. helped me out a ton and answered all my questions.

quadracer585
04-16-2009, 08:45 PM
I have Burgard +2's that work well and they aren't expensive...here's a pic. You can check them out at burgardcycle.com or go on ebay cause that's where I got a really good deal
http://i656.photobucket.com/albums/uu290/quadracer585/quadafter31.jpg

dobber21
04-18-2009, 10:35 PM
well i no my fullflights are longer than my stockers since well my brake lines are stretching it and it was a noticable handling difference and my front end is wider than my back end which has a plus 4 axle

Zeb400EX
04-19-2009, 09:00 PM
Full flights aren't bad for no more than they cost,but you really get way your paid for. My are ok but I wish I would have went with burgards because I don't like the heim jointed ball joints. They are expensive to repace and they aren't very heavy duty at all. Went I first put them on I was afraid they would beak if I hit a tree or rock. I bought mine off ebay and it took almost two months to get them. Went I would call them no one would answer for a week.

F-16Guy
04-20-2009, 07:19 AM
Yeah, I would stay away from arms that have Heims at the ball joint locations. Heim joints are meant for a radial load, not the axial load they get when they are used as ball joints. That type of load makes them wear very quickly, and can cause the spherical bearing to pop out of the race. It could be really dangerous to have your ball joint come apart while you're riding. My personal preference for ball joints is probably the uniball bearings that you see in most lower LT a-arms (Roll Design), followed by FRAP style (Houser regular travel), and then conventional automotive tie rod end style joints like the recreation Burgard arms use.

Zeb400EX
04-20-2009, 04:27 PM
Originally posted by F-16Guy
Yeah, I would stay away from arms that have Heims at the ball joint locations. Heim joints are meant for a radial load, not the axial load they get when they are used as ball joints. That type of load makes them wear very quickly, and can cause the spherical bearing to pop out of the race. It could be really dangerous to have your ball joint come apart while you're riding. My personal preference for ball joints is probably the uniball bearings that you see in most lower LT a-arms (Roll Design), followed by FRAP style (Houser regular travel), and then conventional automotive tie rod end style joints like the recreation Burgard arms use.

I been wanting to try and find an automotive style ball joint to replace the heims. I read some where on here that you can buy ball joint from an auto parts store that will fit atv a-arms,but I don't what kind of car they were for. Maybe from a VW bug or some small car. Anyone else heard of this?

F-16Guy
04-20-2009, 05:31 PM
Yeah, I think you need VW bug tie rod ends, but I don't remember what years fit. The only problem there is that the shaft diameter of the threaded portion of the joint is fairly small (14mm I think), so they had a tendancy to break. That's why most arm companies went to the larger 16mm joint, and then to either the FRAP style joint or the uniball.