PDA

View Full Version : frame



crixal
04-14-2009, 09:36 PM
i got t boned saturday and broke my foot peg off. i think i have to buy a new frame now. hopefully find out more tomorrow.

busarider363
04-14-2009, 11:29 PM
try and find someone who can weld it i had to get a new frame to start off my year u can only get it from can-am it was almost $1500 and u huge pain in the *** to change over

IOWAracer
04-14-2009, 11:41 PM
get it welded prolly be pretty strong close to what it was if done right may be exspensive but not 1500 smackers:devil:

joeyds450x
04-15-2009, 05:17 AM
that sucks bad.. wut happened to the other quad, they had to be goin fast!!:eek:

Flynbryan19
04-15-2009, 06:39 AM
I'd have it welded. Screw $1500....

TNT
04-15-2009, 07:42 AM
That joint is in compression at the bottom and tension at top. If you can put at bead on the joint first all around then weld a strap on top to take out the tension(downward pulling apart), use like .08 aluminum plate you get at the harware store, 6061 is good for welding. Don't remember what the bottom looks like but if you can a strap there too to take out the compression which since the casting will react most of it out wont be so important as a top . You really need a strap up top to take out the tension. Forget the sides or forward/rear loads you'd need a new foot peg/nurfs unless you can figure a way to strap/doublers would be best all around…..Try that if it fails go to BRP and see if you can buy the casting, not the entire frame…pretty sure they don't sell it and you got to buy a new frame at that point, reason is those hucks you have to break the collar drift them out carfully to not enlarge the hole then you need a huck gun to install. Not fun! Strong but a pain to replace sections like this. This peice is replaceable tho without going back to the jig as far as I can tell. The fasteners will locate it back to original specs if you don't enlarge them.

If you can set that quad on end and shoot me some pics of the bottom of the casting and foot peg I might be able to come up w/some more or better ideas that won't look so bad.

TNT
04-15-2009, 08:16 AM
THIS IS WHY A CASTNG DON'T WORK ON PRIMARY QUAD STRUCTURE HERE BRP. THEY ARE CHEAPER BUT WEAKER…...COULD BE WORSE YOU COULD OWN A YFZr HAS IT EVERYWHERE!

BRP SHOULD OF AT LEAST MADE THIS PEG ATTACH SEPARATE/REPLACEABLE BOLT ON!!! NOT GOOD EMBEDDING IT IN A HIGH LOAD ONE PIECE CASTED PART LIKE THIS!!! WEAK IN BENDING!!! DAH!! :huh

Jersey450R
04-15-2009, 08:25 AM
Wow! :eek: Look at that!

TNT
04-15-2009, 08:33 AM
Crix let me look at the bottom, you may be able to build a steel peg welded attach fitting and bolt it on. I help you this can happen to any of us. I'll look at it soon.

Is that hollow inside, shoot me a pic looking right in at it?

TNT
04-15-2009, 08:55 AM
Yeah if I were you Crix I would NOT buy a new frame so it can happen again. I'd come up with a stronger solution. You'll spend a lot less and have a better peg attach.

Craziest thing I seen in a while!!!! Kind of thing you don't think about till it happens. I know our yam has a steel replacable peg fitting.

Blizzard24
04-15-2009, 09:36 AM
I think TNT summed it up, have someone weld the piece back on, grind the weld down on the top and bottom and weld on two new plates (Top and bottom). Have them weld plates on the other footpeg as well and call it a day.

TNT
04-15-2009, 10:08 AM
Yeah, actually more I think about it if you can weld the one bottom vertically so acts like a stiffener it would be better. Probably all you need is .080 x 1/2(vertical) x L....then strap the top. Or if you can T sections on both it even be better.

If you don't know what I mean I can draw a pic.

I don't think 1/2 is going to be a ground clearance problem. You could go 1/4 Tees to by as wide and long as you can fit.

ScottB125
04-15-2009, 10:20 AM
You can easily plate that and weld it up. Unhook your battery before you weld.

spanky101
04-15-2009, 10:29 AM
Best of luck with this man! Im interested to see what you choose to do

TNT
04-15-2009, 11:26 AM
Ok Crix I went to the dealer to get some parts and looked at this here is your repair…Limited accesses and uneven surfaces but follow this.....may take some bending, forming and fitting parts but it can be done.

Top weld some flat plate aluminum .08 or more to take out the tension.

Bottom get a ¼ or 3/8 Tee aluminum .08 or more weld to take out the compression. Make tee as high, long and wide as possible to clear above the peg and casting.

Sides – Get some .06 or better steel plate and on the forward side make a vertical strap doubler pick up the two bolts that go through the peg and drill two more through the casting…..it’s a hollow casting you have access to install a bolt and nut to the rear. Do the same thing on the rear picking up the peg bolts but make a steel angle back there don’t drill through the casting but rather pick up the bolt that attaches the heel guard (there’s a tab off the casting for it). This will take out vertical bending and shear. Prime and Paint the steel to prevent dissimilar metal corrosion, steel to aluminum.

Do this and it will be better than original. Maybe $30 in material much better than $1500 and it won’t happen again. You added a little weight but you don’t race MX so no biggy.

Do it to both sides like Chris said.

09 changed the design looks better but I still don't like it!

tach13
04-15-2009, 11:48 AM
im sure welding it will work just fine, but isn't the point of these frames that they dont have welds because welds make them weaker?

TNT
04-15-2009, 12:18 PM
Yes! Actually the weld alone probably won’t hold up. We don't know if it's 6061, probably not but 6061 is the best alloy for welding aluminum not castings usually 2000 or 5000 series. We use a 80% knock down factor of ultimate strength for welded aluminum vs. fastened joints. It’s the heated material around the weld and porosity(like a casting has) that weakens not the weld joint itself. Follow what I outlined with adding the steel bolted on straps too you cant go wrong.

Crix use 6061 for your welds.

ds450racer
04-15-2009, 02:24 PM
That must be a weak point in the frame. I snapped mine in exactly the same place last year.

crixal
04-15-2009, 02:58 PM
i got hit at about 45-50 mph, so i'm not really mad that it broke. i'm just glad i didn't get hurt, lol. we're gonna weld it up first. the guy i called actually suggested pretty much the same thing tnt said.

Blizzard24
04-15-2009, 03:36 PM
Originally posted by crixal
i got hit at about 45-50 mph, so i'm not really mad that it broke. i'm just glad i didn't get hurt, lol. we're gonna weld it up first. the guy i called actually suggested pretty much the same thing tnt said.

Glad you didnt get hurt either man... thats nuts, and if thats all that happened to the bike, they are tougher than I thought.
Let us know what you do to fix it and how it holds up... post some pics when you are done.

crixal
04-15-2009, 04:17 PM
thanks, bliz. i was pretty surprised, too. well, it slightly dented my rear wheel, but it's ok. i kinda don't think it's gonna hold up, but it's worth a try. cast aluminum is a different game when it's comes to welding it.

Blizzard24
04-15-2009, 04:25 PM
A lot of people have welded stock cast aluminum swingarms and they hold up quite well, I wouldnt worry too much about it if the person does a good thorough job.

BSTURDIVANT
04-21-2009, 08:12 AM
One good thing about the DS all parts can be changed! The rivets need drilled an replaced with bolts when changing the "hip" or individual left and right frame pieces!

OutlawBill
04-21-2009, 08:50 AM
give a try http://www.aluminumrepair.com/

RATPACK Z400
04-21-2009, 09:07 AM
Doe,s the frame have sections that can be replaced instead of the whole frame? damm that sucks Id be pissed thats good you didn,t get hurt! I thought those frames come apart in several pieces so you can change parts of frame?