450r carb

[BassHunter0123]

found a 450r carb locally i can pick up for 80 bucks. is that a good price? also if i pick it up and someday want to go back to the stock carb can i do that with the mods you have to do for the 450? thanks

[matt14c]

You probably could but not sure how well the seal would be. When you grind down the two boots that connect the carb that helps keep the vaccum effect for the stock carb since it is smaller in diameter. Would be cheap to go back to stock by just getting the boots off ebay or on here. Im sure they would be pretty cheap to pick up used. That is a good deal on the carb. Ask him if he would want to sell the throttle cable also or you will need to pick one up.

[Young_Gun1]

I'd get the adapter zrpilot had made
it'll also make it so you don't have to move the airbox forward

[Grizzy]

Just use ZRPilots adapter and you can go back anytime you want.

[BassHunter0123]

ok were do i get the adapter at? what are the downfalls of having the 450 carb? still reliable? any problems? also what type of power gains will i expect? top end? bottom end? is this ok to use with the sparks key? thanks

[zrpilot]

Originally posted by BassHunter0123
ok were do i get the adapter at? what are the downfalls of having the 450 carb? still reliable? any problems? also what type of power gains will i expect? top end? bottom end? is this ok to use with the sparks key? thanks

Basshunter0123,

you can get the adapter from me. PM me for details.

There are NO downfalls in the 450R, it is just as reliable and gives good power gains across the board.

zrpilot

[BassHunter0123]

well i got my carb today for 100 bucks because i needed a plunger for the hot start. also got the throttle cable. the guy i got it off owns his own shop. he says i do not have to drill out the vent on the side. what does everyone think about this? i realy dont want to drill it if i dont have to. now i am just deciding if i want the clean look with the adapter also i see on here people recommend using the 450r fuel line, well he told me to use the 400ex one???????

[Newrider08]

I think the 450R line is longer but still bent the same, when I do my carb conversion I am going to go ahead and get a new 450R throttle cable and fuel line, I know you don't have to buy new stuff be that stuff is cheap and its a good deal to replace it from the start.

As for drilling and tapping that hole I am really curious about that too, why does that get drilled and tapped? Im assuming for clearance right?

[Ntensweapon]

Yes you want to move the vent tubes because of clearance issues. It will make the tank stick up. Mine still doesn't go all the way down but it would be worse if the vents were on top. Its real easy to do.

The only drawbacks I see is the clearance on the tank, and you can't use the choke. Most guys remove it anyway.

But the power is oh so sweet.

[zrpilot]

Originally posted by Newrider08
I think the 450R line is longer but still bent the same, when I do my carb conversion I am going to go ahead and get a new 450R throttle cable and fuel line, I know you don't have to buy new stuff be that stuff is cheap and its a good deal to replace it from the start.

As for drilling and tapping that hole I am really curious about that too, why does that get drilled and tapped? Im assuming for clearance right?

Guys,

Drilling and moving the vent simply ensures that it DOES NOT get pinched. IF the vent is not working the carb will NOT work correctly as the low pressure on the top of the slide will cause an incorrect mixture ratio.

SO is moving the vent needed? No if you can make sure the vent does not get pinched. For my installation on my 400EX, I wanted EVERYTHING just right so I did not have to worry about this problem... just my $.02 worth.

zrpilot

[matt14c]

You dont "HAVE" to drill the hole for the vent but if you dont you run risk of your gas tank pinching the line and not allowing the carb to breathe. It is not hard to do at all. If you take that cover off it is really quite simple. The nipple is already there you just have to go through the metal then plug the old hole with something that will hold. The Gas line is just alot easier to hook up than the ex but again you dont have too. From what I have seen the adapter allows for a much nicer cleaner stock look because of the airbox placement. Im debating also because of the $$$$ for it because I need so many other things and want so much more than that. But it does look really nice and helpful!

[BassHunter0123]

also the jets that are in it are a 50 pilot and 185 main. going to just keep them there and see what happens. dont know anything about the needle. how do i check the needle and where should it be? im in ohio thanks

[zrpilot]

Originally posted by BassHunter0123
also the jets that are in it are a 50 pilot and 185 main. going to just keep them there and see what happens. dont know anything about the needle. how do i check the needle and where should it be? im in ohio thanks

Those are good jets to start with... the main might be a little big.. Start with the needle on the fourth hotch from the top..

[BassHunter0123]

i know this may sound dumb but i do not know where or how to adjust the needle jet. having my stock carb i dont believe is adjustable. do i access it from the top of the carb? a quick how to would be great

[matt14c]

When you remove the top cap or lid by removing the four philips head screws. The cap where the vents are that you should tap while you have it off. Well in there you will see an arm that is connected to the shaft where you will notice moves up and down with movement of the throttle cable. There is one philips screw that connects that arm to that shaft you dont have to remove that I dont think but I always do i think it makes it easier. At the bottom of that chamber there is two small philips head screws make sure you have good pressure and maybe tap the screwdriver to make sure it is seated well so you dont strip them then remove those screws. Once you do that flip that arm up and the needle is under that lil round plate. Flip carb upside down and the needle will fall out or reach in with some needle nose and grab it.

[zrpilot]

Originally posted by matt14c
When you remove the top cap or lid by removing the four philips head screws. The cap where the vents are that you should tap while you have it off. Well in there you will see an arm that is connected to the shaft where you will notice moves up and down with movement of the throttle cable. There is one philips screw that connects that arm to that shaft you dont have to remove that I dont think but I always do i think it makes it easier. At the bottom of that chamber there is two small philips head screws make sure you have good pressure and maybe tap the screwdriver to make sure it is seated well so you dont strip them then remove those screws. Once you do that flip that arm up and the needle is under that lil round plate. Flip carb upside down and the needle will fall out or reach in with some needle nose and grab it.

Well done matt14c!!

[matt14c]

In the middle of doing the same thing as we speak so i just took a break to order some screws and jets and noticed this question so it was fresh!! :D

I was unaware of drilling and tapping. Is there a good how-to with pics on this?

[zrpilot]

Originally posted by SuicideMFNdoors
I was unaware of drilling and tapping. Is there a good how-to with pics on this? I show the end result of what the moved vent hose looks like on my thread on how I did my 450R installtion... But I don't have actual photos of the tapping.

mt 450R carb thread (http://www.exriders.com/vbb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=314423)

Alright thanks zrpilot.. I just need to buy some taps and make sure I have the right tapping size.

[Grizzy]

When I did mine i just filled the top vent with black gasket maker/silicon and drilled out the side vent, I did not have a need to tap and put the bolt in the top vent as zrpilot did, but to each his own.

[zrpilot]

Originally posted by Grizzy
When I did mine i just filled the top vent with black gasket maker/silicon and drilled out the side vent, I did not have a need to tap and put the bolt in the top vent as zrpilot did, but to each his own.

Not a bad idea, never thought of that!

:D

[BassHunter0123]

i got blue rtv silicone will that work for my hot start plug and the top vent?

[Wheelie]

Buy a hotstart plunger, otherwise you will have problems.

I drilled the vent into the side, drilled and tapped the top hole, put a screw in it and shaved the top vent down.

I also build my own choke linkage that works great, it took nearly an hour to shape the metal to make it work.

[zrpilot]

Originally posted by Wheelie
Buy a hotstart plunger, otherwise you will have problems.

I drilled the vent into the side, drilled and tapped the top hole, put a screw in it and shaved the top vent down.

I also build my own choke linkage that works great, it took nearly an hour to shape the metal to make it work.

Wheelie, post some picts of that choke arm, will ya?

zrpilot

[Wheelie]

I'll take some pics of it this weekend and post them up.

[BassHunter0123]

i got the plunger i just nrrd to fill it which i did last night

[BassHunter0123]

wel started screwing around with the 450r carb. the front part of the 450r carb that connects to the motor is a bit bigger than the 400ex carb and ive been having a heck of a time fitting it? anyone else have this problem and got any tricks for this?

[zrpilot]

Originally posted by BassHunter0123
wel started screwing around with the 450r carb. the front part of the 450r carb that connects to the motor is a bit bigger than the 400ex carb and ive been having a heck of a time fitting it? anyone else have this problem and got any tricks for this?

Basshunter0123, You need to sand the airboot between the carb and the motor. Take it off the motor and use a Dremel with the sanding drum on it. GO SLOW! Don't remove to much material, trial fitting the carb as you go!

Did you happen to read my 450R carb installation post?

[BassHunter0123]

yea i have read it. i must of have just overlooked that part of it. i did see it a little bit ago

[zrpilot]

It is a snug fit, but with a little sanding the 450R carb will snap into the intake boot!

[BassHunter0123]

wold scraping with a utility knife work?

[zrpilot]

Originally posted by BassHunter0123
wold scraping with a utility knife work?
I doubt it, but never tried it.. sorry :(

[BassHunter0123]

this is starting to turn into a big headache im having problems getting the stupid carb in there i can get the carb in the boot that connects to the motor then i cant get the airbox part onto the adapted. so if i reverse it and put the airbox onfirst and then it wont go into the bot on the motor.

[zrpilot]

Originally posted by BassHunter0123
this is starting to turn into a big headache im having problems getting the stupid carb in there i can get the carb in the boot that connects to the motor then i cant get the airbox part onto the adapted. so if i reverse it and put the airbox onfirst and then it wont go into the bot on the motor.

I don't know what is going on...It is NOT that hard...Take pictures...

[BassHunter0123]

ok well i got the carb on but, it will not start. wont even act like it wants to start. there is a screw right by the idle screw, what is that screw for? i loosen it and gas comes pouring out of the overflow. any thoughts?

[zrpilot]

Originally posted by BassHunter0123
ok well i got the carb on but, it will not start. wont even act like it wants to start. there is a screw right by the idle screw, what is that screw for? i loosen it and can comes pouring out of the overflow. any thoughts?

"Can comes pouring out"??????

Huh???

Gas??

I'm sorry you are having problems... The only screw I can think of is the float bowl drain...

Lets start at the begining...

1) did you check the float level?
2) what condition is the spark plug? Wet or dry? I'm assuming that the quad ran to before the carb upgrade
3)Is the choke engaged? Is the choke lever off the carb?
4) Where is the needle?
5) What Pilot is in the quad?
6) did you happen to adjust or check the idle mixture screw? If not screw it in until lightly seated then back it out 2.5 turns as a starting point
7) Your other post says that is has a 185 main and a 50 pilot, you NEED to verify this
8) What did you do about the hot start? IS the stock plunger in there or did you use some other method to plug it?

zrpilot

PS: Again pictures are worth a 1000 words!!!!

[BassHunter0123]

sorry gas comes pouring out if i loosen that screw. the spark plug was dark but dry and it is getting spark. float level i dont know anything about. the hot start has the plunget in it and i sealed it with rtv silicone gasket maker. i just went out and tried to start again.and kind of acted like it was going to start for a second. i guess i will take the carb back off and clean everything inside and verify all the jets that are in it. how often should you replace the spark plug. i may as well go get new one

[BassHunter0123]

also i removed the choke but i also pulled the pin up with some needle nose pliers and that didnt change anything

[zrpilot]

Dry would indicate no gas? Right?

Try this.. pump the gas a few times while looking down the carb while it is intalled on the motor. You should see a stream of gas from the accelerator pump. IF you do, give three pumps then try to start it. As a last resort try a pump or two while cranking..

zrpilot

[BassHunter0123]

ok well some good news it starts!! but the idle is insane high

[zrpilot]

Originally posted by BassHunter0123
ok well some good news it starts!! but the idle is insane high

You have to look at the hot start first!!!!! Are you 100% sure the plunger is sealing everyhting off??

[BassHunter0123]

ok it is sealed off. the high idle was in the adjstment on my throttle cable. But now a bigger problem just arose. i think i sheared my timing key off. when i first put my key in i dont think i tightened my flywheel enough and it sheared it off. so i got a new one and tightened it down. i have been riding with it for prolly 2 months and everything is great. and now it is making the same sound as when i sheared it off

[BassHunter0123]

on top of that after i adjusted the throttle cable gas is leaking out of the float bowl drain

[zrpilot]

Originally posted by BassHunter0123
on top of that after i adjusted the throttle cable gas is leaking out of the float bowl drain
Might be coming out of the float bowl overflow or the overflow screw is not sealing off correctly!

Bummer :(

zrpilot

[BassHunter0123]

i dont know why it sheared my timing key off, but i put my stock key back in and i got it starting and idleing good but when my gas is turned on it will leak out that tube but when my gas is off and i loosen the screw it will come out which would indicate it is sealing it off. its like getting too much gas in the bowl??????

[zrpilot]

Originally posted by BassHunter0123
i dont know why it sheared my timing key off, but i put my stock key back in and i got it starting and idleing good but when my gas is turned on it will leak out that tube but when my gas is off and i loosen the screw it will come out which would indicate it is sealing it off. its like getting too much gas in the bowl??????
You probably should check the float level. it involves taking the carb off the bike and while doing that check the bowl drain screw.

zrpilot

[BassHunter0123]

is the float level adjustable?

[BassHunter0123]

well i took it on a ride and it stopped for now. i will continue to moniter the situation. i can definitly tell a huge difference. even with my sparks key removed. i will order another key and put it in when i get the cash. one more issue i have never really replaced a throttle cable. do they need broke in? seems the idle varied when i come to a stop i need to tap the throttle to get it to idle down. but when it goes down it idle to low. i still need to tweek it also getting backfiring on decel

[Wheelie]

Sorry about the quality of pics, I didn't want to remove my fuel tank to get a better shot. Too lazy to do it today.

Hopefully this gives an idea of my choke linkage.

Basically I formed 2 'fingers' to grab the knob on the end of the choke and formed an arm that is contoured to the intake boot. It uses the stock 450R pivot screw in the stock location.

Here's the arm that I flip up to choke it. It hugs the stock intake boot quite closely.
http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s213/Theyak777/DSCF0112.jpg

Here you can see the 'fingers'.
http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s213/Theyak777/DSCF0111.jpg