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ricdawg
04-05-2009, 10:59 PM
Anybody have any tips or tricks you're willing to share to remove the rear inner cv joint from the differential on a 1999 Sportsman 500? I checked with the local dealer and all the help they would give me is that sometimes you got to work at it and they will come. I however can't get it to budge. I even welded a bracket to it so I could attach my 10lb slide hammer and it still won't budge. I'm afraid any more force and I'll damage the aluminum housing.

Thanks
Rick

Wildhorse800
04-07-2009, 07:54 PM
They are tough once they have been in there for a while. I used a crow bar, pry bar and a pickle fork. Its just a lot of rust dust that keeps the clip from compressing.

Just keep at it. i remember thinking it was hopeless.

Yes, the seals are on the outside. They can be replaced easily once the axles are out. I believe I removed the lower arms to allow better access to install them. A seal installer will make things easier. Just take your time and watch you don't gouge the case up where the seal sits. I did and used a die grinder to smooth it out and then used red Locktite(permanent) on the outside of the seal to help keep it in place and help seal it up. Use grease to lube the rubber sealing lip(I use STP engine oil treatment on all my seals--old trick from rebuilding automatic transmissions!)

Let us know how you make out!:rolleyes:

ricdawg
04-08-2009, 07:59 AM
Thanks again for the tips. I plan to tackle it this coming weekend and will post the outcome.

HCRacing
04-09-2009, 07:10 AM
Spray it with somthing like W-D or a rust solevent . I had the same problem on my 700 and kept spraying it . Spray in the small crack on top and then i used a pickle fork and it poped right out. The rust gets under the clip and like the other guy said , it don't let it compress. Once the rust soaks it will let it compress.. but remmember before you put it back in to take the ring off and clean the grove good or it won't go back in.

Wildhorse800
04-09-2009, 07:31 AM
..And go to NAPA and get a bottle of anti-sieze and lube the splines up real goodfor re-installation. Watch this stuff...it will not come off clothes and somehow seems to get everywhere, but it will make any future removal alot easier. You could use grease also, but the anti-sieze will stay put...guaranteed.

HCRacing
04-09-2009, 07:35 AM
Forgot to tell him to lube it up for reinstall..

Wildhorse800
04-09-2009, 07:37 AM
We all know what happens when you try and shove something in a hole without first having it properly lubricated:devil:

HCRacing
04-09-2009, 07:48 AM
Isn't that the truth..

ricdawg
04-09-2009, 07:13 PM
Thanks for the tips guys. I've been spraying it with PB Blaster for the past couple of days now. Hopefully this weekend it will just pop apart.:muscle:

HCRacing
04-09-2009, 10:00 PM
Originally posted by ricdawg
Thanks for the tips guys. I've been spraying it with PB Blaster for the past couple of days now. Hopefully this weekend it will just pop apart.:muscle:

Get a pickle fork and beat it inbetween the bearing and the axle. It will pop out . Just keep spraying it so it sokes good.

Wildhorse800
04-14-2009, 09:32 PM
Waiting to hear back.............................

ricdawg
04-15-2009, 03:48 AM
Nope, worked on it for about 6 hrs on Saturday and it still won't budge. I noticed the little bit of movement I get out of it transfers through to the other side which leads me to believe that movement is the play in the carrier bearings and that the shaft is seized in the splines and not the c-clip.

Since the inner joint was shot anyways we drilled a 1/2 hole the long way through the end of the joint so we could get some penetrating oil in from the back side of the joint by the c-clip. This of course was after several hours of monkeying with it including heating it up with a torch, letting it cool, and repeating the process to try to get it to move.

We have it soaking now and rotating the joint 180 degrees every day and applying more penetrating oil. We'll try again this weekend, I'm sure I'll get it because if it doesn’t budge I plan to drill a 1-1/2 inch hole through the joint and taking the rest of it out in pieces. :huh

mm800
04-15-2009, 09:17 PM
Get a pry bar between the cup and the diff and apply pressure outward while you tap the opposite side of the cup w/ a hammer which will break the c clip loose and then it will come out.

Wildhorse800
04-16-2009, 09:34 AM
I feel for ya, man. Mine was the same way. Gotta be careful using heat. I'm sure you need new seals now!!!

I know I had at least 3 hours one night and then another 2 or three the next night. Just don't say die. It will come eventually.

Just remember to try and keep the joint even while prying. The more of an angle you have while prying, the harder it will be.

You will be amazed at just how much rust is really in there when it does come. I wish I was closer. I'd love to come help.

Also, if you are using Oxy-Acetylene heat, you gotta hit that thing while HOT. Once it cools, the steel contracts again.

You may want to take the "womanly" approach also. Sometimes a nice light touch is needed just when you think you have to manhandle it.

Keep at her!

ricdawg
04-22-2009, 05:10 PM
OK, after another week of spraying, rotating, and letting it sit, the axle shaft finally loosed up enough that it came out with the slide hammer. It was definitely seized in the splines. Not much rust around the c-clip. Thanks guys for all the help.

Rick

Wildhorse800
04-22-2009, 06:27 PM
Glad you made it!

HCRacing
04-23-2009, 11:47 AM
Originally posted by ricdawg
OK, after another week of spraying, rotating, and letting it sit, the axle shaft finally loosed up enough that it came out with the slide hammer. It was definitely seized in the splines. Not much rust around the c-clip. Thanks guys for all the help.

Rick

If the spines were seized up there is rust under the clips. I couldn't get the axle to go back in because the rust under the clips. once i cleaned the area under the clips it went right in., So i would still pull the clips off and clean that area to.

ricdawg
04-23-2009, 05:44 PM
Nope there was no rust under the c-clip because I removed it to inspect as I wanted to figure out exactly why it was so hard to remove the cv joint. I suspected lots of rust too but this was weird, only lots of rust on the splines.

Once the penetrating oil worked its way down the splines the joint loosened up and had some side play where as to it popped out just like it was suppose to.

Anywho the reason why I had to remove it was to replace the axle shaft as the inner joint had exploded on me. Lubed the new splines and the splines in the carrier up with some anti seize and slide it back together.

Thanks again guys for all the tips.
Rick